Hopper Penn fronts FENDI's first ever men's eyewear collection
FENDI presents its first Men’s Eyewear Collection for Spring/Summer 2017, a wide and complete collection of sunglasses and optical frames, celebrating the FENDI Men’s signatures in an always innovative way.
As elegant and contemporary as the FENDI Men, this Eyewear Collection plays with classic shapes and materials combining them in unique and unexpected ways.
The shapes range from contemporary squared models to round retro-inspired styles, all conveying the FENDI DNA through surprising colour and material combinations enhanced by distinctive details, as the iconic triangle element, the stitching details in metal and the coloured outlines, shaping the FENDI Eyewear universe in a playful way.
The colour palette is elegant and subtle, with black, blue and natural Havana tones paired with shaded or flashed lenses for a strong yet refined appeal.
The new FENDI Men’s Eyewear Collection will be available worldwide in FENDI boutiques and selected high-end opticians from January 2017.
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2017
Fluffy fur - fake fur - in a deep shade of lilac, literally covering the sits, walls, columns and the grand stairways of the spectacular concrete architecture of Palais d’Ièna designed by pioneer Auguste Perret for the Exposition Universelle held in 1937.
Miuccia Prada is not new to strong statements during dark times like the current political atmosphere. And she does it in the most dramatic and fun way we have known her for. For Fall Winter 2017 Miu Miu’s girl is covered with fake fur of all the possible sorbet colours: lemon, papaya, green apple, vanilla, tangerine. Mix-matched with sultry embellished silk gowns in soft powder pink and multicolour sporty striped knitwear.
A powerful woman who is not afraid to show off her girly femininity. Miuccia Prada knows how to energize a tired crowd at the end of an intense fashion week calendar. It was all about that: being positive, energetic, alive. Wrapping oversized fuzzy coats, at times embellished with bejewelled belts, but also matching furry caps, and obviously the spectacular portfolio of accessories to give the final blow. It’s pure glamour, a bit 40s, a bit 70s. It’s Miu Miu on the nth degree and we cannot but love it.
Céline Fall/Winter 2017
“The spectator is caught under a cloudy or a starry sky, surrounded by ocean waves or masses of people running towards him, while he is entranced by the dramatic actions of the central round arena. The division between acting and the audience no longer exists. Words, light and music no longer have a set place […] The director alters position and spatial forms and mercilessly subjects the audience to the dynamics of his imaginations”.
Walter Gropius’s words during 1934 Volta congress in Rome resonate strong in Phoebe Philo’s setting choice for her Celine Fall/Winter 2017 show. It’s not the first time that a fashion designer is fascinated by the visionary ideas of the Bauhaus pioneer for his Total Theater, where the audience was supposed to revolve during the performance, shifting the spectators and the stage area to alter the viewer's scale of values and forcing them to participate in the act.
We have known Phoebe Philo for her no-nonsense vision and relaxed, elegant silhouettes as the embodying of the powerful, confident working woman who has no time for superfluous fuss. The catwalk was populated by a tribe of women, with their different life, different tempo, like we would find in any busy street.
At first glance Celine Fall Winter 2017 is just all that. Exceptional tailoring and gimmick-free looks: the long trench coat, oversized tuxedo blazers, long tunics with matching fluent pants for the day and a modern version of emperor dresses for a more dress-up feel, a crisp white shirt.
But Philo’s masterly created a collection again beautifully lying in the details, revealing its stance dramatically at a closer look.
The collection featured beautiful origami-like seam lines as mimicking the movement of the body and its presence. Like when you bend your harm and a crisp fabric would inevitably crease. It’s real life that Philo delicately suggests. Real women who don’t need to scream.
Nicholas Kirkwood Fall/Winter 2017
“The Dark Matters”, for Fall/Winter 2017 Nicholas Kirkwood created a series of monochromatic shoes with a strong 80s aesthetic.
Geometric and graphic lines adorn the heels and boots for this strong and architectural collection. The English designer - inspired by artists like Daniel Buren - used a sculptural approach and the forever-favourite feminine/masculine dichotomy references.
The austerity of black in contrast with lurex and silver mirror smooth leather uppers, plexi-heels, pearls inlaid into a metal frame sole and luxurious black suede, adorn the collection in a play of contrasts. The name of the collection also refers to a new fabric created by Kirkwood: a black glittering stretchy textile used for a new sock-boot and a slip-on mule. It’s a rich and sophisticated collection with new silhouettes and the omnipresent irreverent mood of Kirkwood’s work
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Marina Abramovic - The Cleaners
Marina Abramovic, one of the most recognised artists of our time, has often utilised her body and the concept of presence as her primary artistic media. Her self-exposure as a means of artistic expression has garnered her criticism and praise in equal measure. Controversial as she may be, her work has earned her a place in the spotlight, a place that she continues to uphold to this day.
Abramovic's first major retrospective in Europe, entitled The Cleaner is being housed in Stockholm's Moderna Museet. It presents several of her best-known performances, including the Relation Works with German artist as well as former collaborator and partner, Ulay. The works take the form of live performances, films, installations and photographs dating back to the 70s and taking us all the way to the present day. Early paintings, and works on paper – some of them exhibited for the very first time – are also part of the exhibition.
A tumultuous childhood and an upbringing rife with religious and revolutionary undertones, shaped the Belgrade-born artist's worldview and played a pivotal, highly influential role in her career. Her work seeks to decipher and explore complex concepts such loss, memory, being and pain. Abramovic doesn't shy away from existential questions and interprets them in ways that may both provoke and move her audiences, delving deep into both the physical and the mental pain threshold in her own unique way. In The Lovers (1988) Abramovic and Ulay undertook a 90-day walk from opposite ends of the Great Wall of China. Their halfway meeting marked the end of their love affair and more than ten-year partnership.
A selection of the artist's performance works will be re-performed in the exhibition by specially-trained performance artists who will lend their talents to works such as Cleaning the Mirror (1995) where one person carefully scrubs clean a human skeleton in a confrontation with morality, Freeing Series (1975) where voice, memory and body are set free, and Art Must Be Beatiful, Artists Must be Beautiful (1975) where the same phrase and actions are repeated obsessively, almost like an incantation.
A new work by Abramovic, in collaboration with Lynsey Peisinger will also be performed at the Moderna Museet's Eric Ericson Hall from the 27th of February to the 5th of March.
The exhibition will run from the 18th of February to the 21st of May 2017.
Philipp Plein Autumn/Winter 2017
Brooklyn-born rap and hip hop artist Nas, opened Phillip Plein's Autumn/Winter 2017 fashion show in the iconic New York Public Library. The show was a personal love letter to the city's neighbourhoods and the diversity that characterises them, highlighting their ability to shape and define an identity. From the Bronx and Chelsea to Queens and the Upper East side, every area has something to offer.
“Neighbourhood Kings” was emblazoned across the collections' garments – it does not matter where you come from, for Philipp Plein, you are the king of your own hood. A diverse cast of personalities and models – including rappers Desiigner and Fetty Wap - strutted down the runway as The Kills performed an electrifying live set.
Music, style, gender and race all had their say in this collection that did not distinguish between men's and womenswear: the girls wear boy's T-shirts and oversized hoodies while the boy's were styles in women's jackets and dresses. Streetwear and couture are also fused together: an embroidered evening dress was paired with a bomber jacket, there was an intarsia mink coat worn with a hoodie and thigh-high sneakers marched alongside heeled boots. Catering to self-expression and their own personal sense of style, the collection's strength lies in its bid to highlight individuality.
But Plein's ode to the Big Apple did end there: the prints also tell a tale of New York. Symbols from dollar pill comprise the print of a hooded fur coat, the Statue of Liberty and FBI (“Fashion Beyond Imagination” patches decorate sweaters and bombers. Floor-length puffer coats and snakeskin jackets are transformed into urban armour thanks to metallic details and the addition of studs.
Ermenegildo Zegna's Defining Moments
Every story worth being recounted begins with a defining moment. Ermenegildo Zegna's latest campaign focuses on just that: precious interactions, settings and conversations that trigger potentially life-changing reactions for its participants.
Robert De Niro, an actor known and revered the world over requires no introduction but it is safe to say he is no fashion ad regular. Alongside him, American Honey break-out star McCaul Lombardi whose performance generated Hollywood buzz at the end of last year. Actors of different generations, with wildly different experience levels but with an affinity that transcends age.
The campaign, shot by film-maker Francesco Carrozzi sees the actors interacting both with each other and the Zegna garments they have chose to wear and recalling their Defining Moments. De Niro's mentors, his philosophy of risk-taking and what draws him to a role are all put to the table. Lombardi appears genuinely awe-struck and profoundly respectful of his older, more experienced counterpart as he shares his experiences.
A free, real and passionate exchange that bridges a generational gap and lies at the heart of Ermenegildo Zegna's philosophy. A merging of the intensely artisanal and industrial elements that form the brand's DNA and expresses its values.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
OFF WHITE Fall/Winter 2017
“The show is real” Virgil Abloh told us backstage after the show. Real and now, much like the urge to touch the everyday life of many in various forms. For OFF-WHITE Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection Abloh stood up for a new chapter of the brand. Oversized outwear gives way to tailored silhouettes. The extreme youthful approach is now moving into a more grownup vision.
The spectacular set design featuring real fading leaves and shedding trees inside the harsh concrete brutalist UNESCO building, wraps the collection in a surreal atmosphere. As we walk inside the venue we feel overwhelmed by this recreated landscape. It almost urges you to just take a stroll and roll in what looks like a wintery park’s forgotten route.
Checked coats with embroidered foliage, denim printed with flying doves and adorned with golden leaves by London based jeweller Duffy. Exquisite knitwear permeates the whole collection, both for men and women, featuring the brand’s signature bar logo. In all its wearability Seeing Things – as named by Abloh - is a romantic and ambitious collection yet staying true to OFF-WHITE’s identity rooted in the streets.
A new way of seeing, as resonating in the words of British writer John Berger’s Ways of Seeing, was chosen as the opening narration for the show: “The images has come to you, you don’t go to them. The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now”.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
Vivienne Westwood summer trip to the Mediterranean
The Mediterranean has always served as a source of inspiration for poets and artists. A symbol of eternal beauty, of endless summers. A beauty that many have attempted to explain with words but that is better left to feelings and emotions.
Andreas Kronthaler's Spring/Summer 2017 'Europa' collection for Vivienne Westwood is a case in point. The collection is an ode to the Mediterranean's laid-back summer vibes and evokes images of sandy beaches, sunsets by the sea and days spent in nothing more than a bikini. But much like everything that bear's Vivienne Westwood's signature, there's a political statement to be read between the lines: 'Europa' is a continent in crisis, struggling to come to grips with the humanitarian crisis of mass migration, an issue that stains its reputation but somehow doesn't distract from its charm.
Legendary photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in Greece, with the picturesque white houses and blue waters serving as the perfect backdrop. Showcasing the garments as well as the scenery beautifully, Teller also managed to highlight the Mediterranean's grotesque facade with a mixture of sophistication and grunge very synonymous with the Vivienne Westwood brand.
Former sex-symbol Pamela Anderson features in the campaign providing a contrast that also links to the power of Mother Nature. The result is simple and delicious, just like a plate of spaghetti.
Take a walk on the wild side with Christian Dada’s “Blue” collection
In the name of “Blue”, Christian Dada's latest collection is a hymn to Japanese color traditions. Blue evokes feelings of rebellion, frustration, incomprehension that surround troubled youth.
Reaching out to our inner adolescent, the collection revolves around the concept of deconstruction that is obtained with sophisticated methods of shaping and layering. Mixing Eastern and Dadaist aesthetics, designer Masanori Morikawa plays with classic tailored jackets worn like kimonos wrapped around T-shirts and striped pajamas. Trench coats morph into tunics and army bombers and denim jackets are ripped into and skinned to expose their bone structure.
Tartan motifs and schoolboy sheepskin jackets collectively pay homage to College fashion. With slogans like “I Don't Like Drugs but Drugs Like Me” or “Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die” making appearances throughout the line, Morikawa's collection echoes messages from modern society.
Playing with double entendres is a trademark of the Dadaist mood board that definitely urges one to take a walk on the wild side.
Out Of The Blue comes Peuterey
Peuterey wraps its timeless designs into the most diverse shades of blue for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
In Out of the Blue, a name that perfectly encapsulates the collection's essence, Italian elegance meets functionality, conceiving a wide range of models that suit our everyday life perfectly, just like their key-color does.
Whether it's trench coats, leatherjackets or blazers – creative director Federico Curradi, has definitely set a new trend for this Spring/ Summer season.
Bottega Veneta and SCoP: when fashion supports art
Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta’s creative director, has never hid his passion for art, making it a proper flagship of the Venetian brand’s attitude. Bottega Veneta showed for the first time its strong commitment to art and culture in 2001, when Maier introduced the “Art of Collaboration”: an ongoing project which invites photographers and visual artists in order to reflect brand’s aesthetic inside its campaigns.
This year the brand confirms its ever-lasting addiction to art, partnering with the Shanghai Centre of Photography in order to support four key international exhibitions hold at the most prestigious photography institute in China. SCoP is indeed considered worldwide the city’s very first place entirely dedicated to photography showcasing its best and diverse genres.
“Made in Germany: German photography from the 19th century to today” will be the first exhibition supported by Bottega Veneta. The projects will comprises an unparalleled selection of iconic masterpieces that together with contemporary examples will give an up-to-date and fresh touch to the entire exhibition.
The exhibition will run until April 2nd 2017
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 6”: between French theatricality and aesthetics
Paris with its romantic promenades sur la Seine it’s the star of “Series 6”, the new Spring/Summer 2017 advertising campaign by Louis Vuitton.
Like a flâneur, Bruce Weber, captured the allure of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite heroines bringing back to life the atmosphere of artistic enthusiasm that typify the city of lights. Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Adèle Exarchpoulos and Sasha Lane become the modern inspirations for a reimagined Paris. The result portrays powerful silhouettes that comprise a collection of strongly cultural referred Parisian moments. The season’s handbags, the long jersey dresses and the tailored suit become characters in their own right, the perfect companions for these pictorial personalities.
“It is to this cultivated, intellectual, original and free-spirited Parisienne that I wanted to pay tribute” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative epicenter of nowadays French elegance.
VERSACE Spring/Summer 2017: enjoy the ride
Savagery and freedom have always been messages carried by Versace that since its birth thanks to its innovative ways of conceiving fashion has endlessly imposed its creative dynamism among the highest fashion brands.
From attitudes to backgrounds, the Spring/Summer 2017 campaign shot by Bruce Weber is the proper representation of what Versace has always meant in the haute couture. Conceived by artistic director Donatella Versace, the freedom and dynamism of summer and the active mood are perfectly encapsulated in these shoots. Models Edie Campbell, Anna Ewers, Mitchell Slaggert and Jake Lahrman, found themselves in the Kentucky countryside surrounded by horses, perfect symbols of this “freedom” collection.
Freedom of choice, freedom of expression and freedom of speech, These are the messages carried by this collection and Versace in general, because as Bruce Weber said: “it’s always interesting that fashion can carry messages in a subtle way and make people think about their own lives and how they can make it better.”
K•Swiss Turns Camo for its 50th anniversary
K•Swiss opted for a stylish celebration for its anniversary. The sportswear brand teamed up with Japanese street fashion label AAPE BY A BATHING APE to launch a limited edition collection.
For the occasion, the American tennis brand turns its classic '66 model into a fashionable camouflage sneaker featuring, its now famous, ape-inspired pattern. This makes for a fresh, new take on the brand's most iconic silhouette.
K•Swiss’ signature five stripes, classic D-rings and the unique three-piece toe design along with an all-covering printed pattern fuse together to creates a blend that reflects the DNA of both K•Swiss and AAPE.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
Miami Beach Art Basel 2016: between emerging artists and Zoo’s familiar faces
Between the 1st and the 4th of December, Miami’s miles of sandy beaches and glittering nightlife will transform into a dense and dynamic cultural event: The Miami Art Basel.
269 leading galleries from all over the world will provide visitors the opportunity to experience works from the masters of modern and contemporary art, as well as discovering the creativity and freshness of new emerging stars.
The main exhibition hall will house paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs from world-renowned creators while the nearby beaches will serve as the backdrop for ambitious artwork, film installations and performances. Artists from an array of cultural backgrounds, different generations and art styles will offer visitors a glimpse into their creative minds in order to enhance the way that the infinite world of art is brought to the public.
Miami Art Basel is fast approaching and amongst the many to showcase their talent, we have spotted a few familiar faces. What better way to participate in this celebration of Art? Let’s revisit the work of some who have graced the pages of ZOO Magazine throughout the years in our selection below:
Courtesy of SCAI THE BATHHOUSE
The Day the World Turned Auerbach, 1991
Courtesy of the artist
The Flux and the Puddle, 2014
Courtesy of Andrea Rosen Gallery, New York
Courtesy of Alex Daniels
Prince Claus Fund Gallery welcomes El Anatsui: Meyina
As of the 24th of November and as part of its continuing mission to collaborate with artists from backgrounds where opportunities for cultural expression and creative production are limited, Amsterdam's Prince Claus Fund Gallery will be hosting El Anatsui's Meyina exhibition.
Curated by independent curator and founder of the Centre for Contemporary Art – Lagos, Bisi Silva, Meyina paints a portrait of the artist that brings together disparate fragments that form a whole. The exhibition includes an array of materials from the artist's workspaces and past collaborations.. Sketchbooks, drawings and letters offer a unique glimpse into Anatsui's creative process.
The Ghanaian artist transforms found materials into large shimmering forms by assembling elements into vibrant patterns with a unique visual impact. Large-scale assemblages of thousands of pieces of aluminium sourced from alcohol recycling stations, are sewn together with copper resulting in an interesting texture that resembles woven cloth. El Anatsui's visually impactful cloth-like wall sculpture serve as contemporary commentary on African history, colonialism, post-colonial reality and the daily reality the continent faces.
In the exhibition the concept of a limitless horizon, an immersive space where possibilities become real resonates. The artist's dedication to exploring political and environmental issues through his work's raw materials has established him as a staunch defender of artistic freedom and an inspiration in the development of the visual arts in Africa.
Paraphrasing Ghanaian author Kofi Anyidoho, Anatsui states that, 'when I am in the studio it is as if the sky bends down to have a word with the earth.'
The exhibition, launched as part of Amsterdam Art Weekend, will run until April 28th 2017 at the Prince Claus Fund Gallery.
Acne Studios now open in NYC
The corner of Madison Avenue and East 74th street, New York city – the Big Apple's iconic block has just been injected with a fresh and futuristic allure.
The novelty comes from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios, known for its well-designed signature pieces, that has just opened its latest flagship in the city that never sleeps.
Here, design meets fashion through the use of gold as Acne's signature tone along with interiors fully decorated with gilded metal walls and aluminum fittings. Colors and lights in fresh combinations make for a stand-out yet recognizable look. Black asphalt floors dotted with glittered stones meet crafted bronze desks under a full lighting ceiling that brighten up the entire space.
Acne Studios founder Jonny Johansson was attracted by the city's multicultural identity which he believes to be the future but was eager to retain the city's essence in the store's design. “I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.”
Amsterdam welcomes Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship and keen eye for detail, opens its much-anticipated first store in Amsterdam tonight. Located on 60, Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat, the two-floor store offers a wide selection of Bottega Veneta products: the brand's iconic bags and leather goods, the ready-to-wear collection as well as accessories for both men and women. An embodiment of Bottega Veneta's timeless elegance and refinement, the store's concept was designed by brand creative director, Tomas Maier and features an array of notable features guaranteed to provide visitors with a private and comfortable shopping experience.
Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
There is a certain challenge overflowing when taking a look at Rei Kawakubo’s work. The naked message that actually she continues to profound through her clothes every season is pointing at only one direction: creativity avulse from compromising. Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 is exploring again the sense of human being itself. “Invisible clothes”, as Kawakubo stated in the show note. Clothes inside huge armoires, gargantuan silhouettes that allowed to pick what it looked like a pregnant belly, or just the eyes of the model. Like a cocoon where the hidden self resides. The sculptural garments sometimes fascinated with early renaissance had the power of overwhelming austerity. A black parade with moments of Kawakubo leitmotif: the crimson red, the ruffles, the polka dots.
Hermès Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
In the few past seasons since her arrival at Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has been balancing elegant understatement and her continuous research of chromatic nuances alongside clean cuts, in search of that perfect balance true to one of the most classic French luxury maisons.
A relaxed, simple atmosphere — far from any decorative fuss. With no display of the iconic bags nor the famous carrés, Vanhee-Cybulski’s intention to put a strong focus to the clothes and her very own redefinition of the brand’s Ready-to-Wear was clear since the last collection in March.
For Spring 2017 we see again calf and floor length and splendid knitwear. The first looks in denim with faded pink tones feature a dress tapered at the waist, a silhouette also declined in fuchsia leather. This luxurious material, trademark of the house, is certainly one of the protagonist of the collection together with subtle reference to male wardrobe: relaxed high waist wide pants matched with blouses with ajour details or in silk cigaline, a calfskin coat made of assembled panels. All perfectly balanced.
The final bias cut long dresses make a fresh romantic entrance into the composed atmosphere. The new Hermès is taking shape.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Women. Or like Nicolas Ghesquière likes to call them: Heroines. Powerful characters who conquer the scenes. Indisputable free and unique. Like Louis Vuitton’s ambassadresses – from Léa Seydoux to Alicia Vikander and Catherine Deneuve, Doona Bae, Michelle Williams – all present, attending the Spring Summer 2017 show. Nicolas Ghesquière delivered a collection of poignant femininity. An interest that he already expressed in the last Louis Vuitton book, the forth of the serie: “I like to see women walking, moving. To see how fabric falling in a certain way can enhance the body; the femininity that interests me is about energy and vitality”. Ghesquière woman is strong yet sinuous. Fluent dresses with midriff cutouts in jersey channelling that sensuous look, power boots as out of a manga heroine, or sheer gowns with padded shoulders hinting military epaulettes – fitting the Place Vendome scenic heritage, where the show took place. Generaless of conquest, witty, travelling – as rooted in Louis Vuitton’s spirit. “6 GIRLS 6 MINUTES”, the short film directed by M/M PARIS for Louis Vuitton just released to present the new collection gives a glimpse of that modern “Parisienne” attitude. A portrait of six different girls around the world in love with the French capital.
Versace Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
If you were expecting overt ostentation from Versace this season, SS17 will have you back on your heels. Sensuality was served in bounds, but it wasn’t offered up on a plate. There were nuggets nestling in the ruching of wrinkled parachute gowns, silks slashed at the neck and snatched at thighs to wrap the body with its impermeable sheen. Asymmetry set the sexiness askew, with bodycon co-ords carved of second-skin jersey silks and mapped with curling bars of sea green and grape. Satin shirts sported their collars splayed, sleeves rolled to the elbows as hems tumbled from waistbands, accordion pleat skirts slipping to the lower hip. As if in a bid to curb the unkempt, fastenings were fastidiously apparent, but even they were trying to escape; side-squeeze buckles slipped from razor-sharp suiting while bulky zips made their way erratically across color-block coats with scarce regard for symmetry, and buttons betrayed their orthodox lines in favor of boomerang bends.
Ribbed wools ran chevron stripes down sweaters, cool hues quelling their urgency, though the quiet didn’t last long. Waxy red leathers bore a more brazen brand of sensuality, a commanding contrast calling upon cropped jackets and silken kilts, sullied by the occasional slubby knit. The only ode to order made a masterwork of the skin, sculpting the strength of naked features, chiselled to par the power cuts which were ironed flat and clipped to a brusque edge.
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When you pair a fashion house that has been the symbol of breaking the rules of conventional fashion and an irreverent genius mind, the result is just powerful. Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 collection designed by John Galliano is certainly the proof that the one between the English designer and the French fashion house is a match made in heaven.
Galliano produced a collection of contrasts, un-matching references, and a rebellious spirit that only few designers like Galliano can pull off these days. Just like Martin Margiela did in his glorious years.
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 is a spectacular parade of superheroes out of a futuristic manga. A skirt adorned with broken CDs to create flower-like appliqués matched with a Scottish check blazer, a wet suit pulled down to form a dress, trench coats turned inside out where the lining forms a dress but that can be magically worn back as coat. Lace matched with see trough plastic lining, ruffled corsets and puffy Victorian sleeves.
The head pieces often like modern wet caps matched with hearings like a sort of Star Trek’s Spock brought a further look into Galliano’s game of double, of ambiguous, and surely of the intricate creative process that this incredible designer went through to reinterpret Maison Margiela’s identity. That’s just what we were all waiting for. Bravo John.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Delicate, intimate and certainly emotional. For his Spring Summer 17 collection Yohji Yamamoto staged a tale narrating the story of a lifetime spent creating pure poetry of deconstructed fashion and undisputed tailoring mastermind. Assisting at a show of Yohji means assisting the living maestro who shaped fashion history itself. But also the genius production of a designer who is not bending to the crude connotations of fashion system. Last Friday night, while an unexpected rain was briefly pouring in the streets of Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection full of beautifully draped silhouettes softly floating around the body of the models. But also deconstructed jacket and coats, sometimes just worn over one shoulder or as bustier hold by strategic straps, almost as connotation of the urge to shift from the conventional, the urge to create in its pure terms. All in black and white with a slash of red. The brush strokes placed gracefully on the garments were recalled by the same motif on the face of the models created by master make up artist Pat McGrath. Like the violent gesture of a painter in the moment of inspiration. The beautiful knitwear bandaging the body as assertion to some sort of laceration. As the model walked in, many in the audience felt that suspension, that poetic silent shout to life.
Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When in mid September Saint Laurent surprisingly released an image shot by Inez and Vinoodh as preview for the new collection by Antony Vaccarello the mood was already set. Featuring his forever favourite muse Anja Rubik in a leather embroidered body suit matched with a denim jacket and a strong sensual look the designer gave a taste of his new direction.
Vaccarello created a collection very much rooted in his DNA.: leather, sexy on its extreme, naked. As declared by the Belgian born designer himself, his point of reference, a puff shouldered dress designed by Yves in ’82, embraced the whole collection. It’s the trashy spirit of the 80s, the clubs, the black fishnet tights, the denim and the heart shaped neckline. Vaccarello declined it with bosom bared through transparent chiffon, velvet, dark gold lamé, vertiginous short skirts. Staging an homage to the French master but mainly surely drawing the line of what his new course for Saint Laurent — soon to be back with “Yves” in its logo as announced by the fashion house — will look like.
The Kurfürstendam in Berlin has welcomed the opening of the latest Ermenegildo Zegna store Inspired by architect Peter Marino’s creative vision for Zegna’s international stores, the brand’s in-house architects developed and created the new boutique. Its interior resembles a fuse of soft and structure, as its colour palette includes rosewood, mahogany as well as gun and bronze metal. Exclusively available in the Berlin store is the Su Misura service, offering the consumer the opportunity to select their preferred style, fabric and accessories.
Burberry Preview Straight-To-Consumer Collection Campaign
Shot by Mario Testino, Burberry reveals a preview of the latest advertising campaign, which will launch after the Burberry show at London Fashion Week on 19th September and will run until February 2017. The collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, contrasting with masculine and feminine styles, will be the brands first straight-to-consumer collection. Burberry Chief Creative and CEO Christopher Bailey says: “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves.” The campaign featuring British models Jean Campbell, Alex Dragulele and Swim Deep bass guitarist Cavan McCarthy is shot at the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool, a historic scenery for the upcoming collection.
Kobe Bryant at Nike Amsterdam Headquarters
“Mamba is back”, Mr Bryant says as he walks up on stage at the Nike Headquarters in Amsterdam. The recently retired NBA-player performed his last game on April 13th at the Staples Centre and ended his basketball career with an amazing 60 points, which he said was to bring excitement to the game and make people, including himself, forget it was his last. At a young age, he decided to start playing for the NBA, as he wanted to learn from the best, and it worked out brilliantly. Only 19 years old, he played against basketball legend Michael Jordan.
Being opposite Jordan didn’t scare him, but made him realize how good he had to practice to get to his level. During the half-hour Q&A Bryant talks more about growing up in Italy, coach Phil Jackson being the person he learned the most from and of course his on-going collaboration with Nike. As Bryant is very much involved in the process and design of the shoes, he will continue to innovate, find new and better materials, which should result in the best performance for athletes. There won’t be an acting career in the near future, but Kobe Bryant has a desire to inspire millions, by telling his story.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
Karl Lagerfeld has created collages mixing up emoticons, pearls and coloured fabrics for the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 campaign. The impulsive images reflect a modern energy with models adorned in pearls, styled with riding boots and the BOY CHANEL bag. Sophistication is added through its knitwear, embellished with eyelets and badges. The brands classic attitude collides with a new, vibrant creative direction. On this decision Lagerfeld told WWD; “I was tired of girl holding a bag. – I wanted to do something else that we have never done before.”
A Surrealist Fantasy - Moncler FW16/17 by Annie Leibovitz
Surrounded by snow, inspired by the Nordic climate. Moncler’s ongoing collaboration with iconic photographer Annie Leibovitz produces a whimsical series of images for its Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, “A Surrealist Fantasy.” Leibovitz relationship with the French brand is founded on a shared view on creative experimentation, made visible in their latest partnership. Moncler’s FW16 Campaign is a collision of an imaginary and the natural word, which translates a surrealist vision.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show FW16
A collection inspired by Italian actress Sophia Loren, Naples and tradition, Domenico Dolce reveals. The Dolce & Gabbana collection is shown on the streets in the middle of old Naples. A white satin cincture hung across the body, Miss Eleganza sewn in gold, a hint to how Ms. Loren first started out; in a provincial beauty contest. The collection includes shapely pencils skirts, wavy hems and fitted suits, all in true Dolce & Gabbana manner. The looks are completed with flower, heart and bow embellished headgear, and induced with some humor; one of the satin soccer shirts reads Maradona 10 on the back.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2016
“I thought that was a modern idea to make them participate. They should be shown too”, Karl Lagerfeld says about the CHANEL Haute Couture Fall/Winter spectacle, which saw the Grand Palais transformed into an atelier. Decorated with mannequins, sewing machines, threads and toiles, the show pays tribute to the seamstresses, tailors and dressmakers who make the collections happen. The garments have a polished silhouette, with angular shoulders, three quarter length sleeves and wide-cut trousers styled with leather thigh-high boots. CHANEL’s statement tweed jackets draws focus on the waist with pockets placed on the hips. Autumnal shades are balanced out and enhanced with hints of pink, black and white. Closing the show is CHANEL’s bride, who Lagerfeld has envisions in a bustier and trousers formed from lace tulle and satin, coated with pink and white wool.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016/17
Circus, the famous collection for summer 1938 inspired this season’s new show, which almost felt magical. Sharp silhouettes and sparkling details defined the wardrobe for a strong, confident woman with Parisian charisma yet worldly imagination. The Schiaparelli’s jacket is architecturally structured with striking shoulder lining, while keeping its femininity through the fluidity and sheerness of the dresses. This collection stays through to Schiaparelli’s signature style of infusing art into fashion and plays with sensuality through added slits and shorts.
Moncler O Autumn/Winter 2016/17
In collaboration with Off-White’s creative director Virgil Abloh, Moncler announces it’s Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection, called Moncler O. The range of clothing is influenced by fishermen of the Northern seas, made apparent in the collection’s waistcoats animating lifejackets along with long jackets including detachable or fixed hoods and short parkas. This collaboration makes for a unique collection, as there is a blend of street style and technical elements. The mix of materials is therefor unexpected, as we see PVC, nylon and other rubbery fabrics, incorporating prints featuring stormy skies, but also a nostalgic look made in pure wool crêpe. Abloh’s hallmark is in the form of the diagonal stripes present throughout the collection.
Giorgio Armani New Normal A/W 2016/17 Campaign
Giorgio Armani announces its New Normal Autumn/Winter 2016/17 advertising campaign, shot in black and white by Peter Lindbergh on the Plage du Touquet in France. Giorgio Armani New Normal focuses on today’s women, proposing classic, timeless garments. The series of natural images promotes the idea of a global, multi-faceted beauty and features models Liu Wen, Liya Kebede, Elisa Sednaoui and Amanda Murphy. “I wanted to show different types of beauty, without barriers – four young women who experience the present in their own ways”, thus revealing Giorgio Armani.
MBFW: Marina Hoermanseder S/S 2017
Dressing her models in three-dimensional garments, Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 2017 collection at the Berlin Fashion Week reminds of playing dress-up with dolls. Glossy dresses resemble the perfection found in the bodies of plastic puppets. The finishing dress of the collection is definitely the highlight – it looks like the glossy body of a mannequin, a bare body showing breasts and a belly button. A tiny waist and wide hips lead into a stiff knee-length skirt, scalloped at the back and heavily encrusted with a mix of red and white diamonds. The bejeweled dress and corsets are not the only eccentric extra. Butterfly applications on shiny leather tops and dresses give the impression that butterflies are more drawn to settling on a beautiful dress than on a flower.
Some tops are made entirely out of frilly flower applications. There is a girly and playful feel to the collection. It is an interesting progression from last year’s summer collection. Similar straps and belts are still essential elements of coats and dresses, but this time the skirt made entirely out of straps wrapping around the model's legs is boasting of a powerful pink and neon orange. Fiery red, neon peach and hot pink are combined with baby blues and creme colours. Pleated mini skirts and wide legged 3/4 trousers are key to the collection. Neon collars spice up dress shirts. A shiny bomber jacket in a bright orange offers an option for summery outerwear. The plastic feel of the garments is what makes them stand out.
PITCH FESTIVAL 2016
The fifth edition of Pitch Festival will kick off this weekend at Cultuurpark Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam. The impressive line-up is suggesting it will be a fun two-days. Featured in our #50 issue, Canadian singer Grimes will be performing, as well as William Phillips, a.k.a. Tourist, alongside many more. For those not familiar, Tourist is an electronic musician and is co-writer of Grammy-winning Song of 2015 Stay with Me by Sam Smith.
To get a feeling of what PITCH is like, watch last year’s impression on our Facebook. Weekend and day tickets are available on www.pitchfestival.nl
BERLIN FASHION: IVANMAN SPRING 2017
Designer Ivan Mandzukic started his brand in 2010 and is definitely a force to be reckoned with. Main inspiration for IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2017, shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, is the 80s German film Baghdad Café. The latest IVANMAN collection provides, just as in the film, a collision of modernity, tradition and clashing world views. The garments are styled in layers, with long shirtsleeves poking out of jacket sleeves. The collection has structured jackets, classic cuts in trousers and tops and is contemporary in its choice of colours, as the blush, turquoise and white colour palette give a real sense of spring.
PFW: Kenzo Spring/Summer 2017
Cool kids squads. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim presented a collection once again inspired by their youth, growing up in LA and its West coast disco scene. The models arrived in packs. There was a lot of that grungy and rave look of the 90s. Departing from the Japanese tune of last season we see an explosion of youthful energy. In a badass attitude the model's walked the runway with high waist pants and shorts in nylon look a like textiles matching tops and shirt and often underwear pulled up above the waist with prints recalling the flyers promoting the artists of the time. Relaxed oversized coats and short jacket but also rain capes with hoodies underneath. Black and white but also lemon and cerulean blue. The collection shouted a multitude of personalities and styles, the freedom of youth.
PFW: VALENTINO SPRING 2017
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli revealed that for the Valentino Spring 2017 collection they were inspired by the “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” exhibition at the Met Breuer in New York, as it allows to see the artists’ development and creative process. This translated into the collection with some of the garments not being finished too, as thread hung from printed knits and stitches were loose. Nevertheless, this made for a selection of structured, luxurious appare. Military and camouflage colours as well as silhouettes start off the show which develops into denim and blue ensembles.
PFW: HERMES SPRING 2017
On the chart of fashion where every party tries to dictate the "extraordinary " and the "new", Hermès 's Mens director Véronique Nichanian focus on the essential and its unlimited power. Slim, simple, effortless are the key words for a collection entirely focused on a multitude of subtle details like only the house of Hermès knows how to. Sleek trousers combined with acid lemon t-shirt , hazelnut leather bomber jackets or architectural minimal coats in faint grey. Beautiful silk shirts and knits with tie - dye motifs together with relaxed sporty sandals indulge the atmosphere. Hermès's man once again plays a cool and elegant attitude.
Our Interview with Ancient Greek Sandal
Keep your eyes peeled for this sandal brand inspired by ancient Greek mythology and architecture, hence the name Ancient Greek Sandal. We met up with the Co-founder and designer of AGS, Christina Martini who started up the business with CEO and Co-Founder Nikolas Minoglou.
What is the philosophy of your brand?
Handmade sandals made from good quality leather in Greece inspired by Ancient Greece. Sandals have a raw yet feminine aesthetic, which would age well with time and wear.
What are the trends for this season that AGS suggest?
Bohemian and embellished lace up sandals with semi precious stones, glass beads, turquoise and corals. In addition to this, we have collaborated with the Mexican brand CARAVANA designing the ‘Tulum Collection’ which are iconic AGS sandals decorated with hand-painted feathers. Our collaboration with LALAoUNIS is also out, a precious collection of six bejeweled styles inspired by the powerful symbol of snake.
Why did you choose the ancient Greek civilization and what is attractive about that?
Because it’s in my blood! At school all Greek students get taught Mythology and Ancient Greek history and I was always fascinated by the visits in museums or archaeological sites. When I was young I wanted to become an archaeologist. Ancient Greek Sandals are inspired by the Ancient Greek mythology, art, architecture, jewelry and everything that is connected with that era. The inspiration is unlimited.
What are the materials you use?
Although the construction is made in Greece, all our raw materials come from Italy. For the uppers we mostly use vegetable tan leather whereas for the insoles and soles we use a thicker skin. For each collection we try to introduce new exciting materials such as the sunbeam snake or pony skin, stamped crocodile but also synthetic materials such as the glitter, fabrics such as the denim for S/S16.
Who are the celebrities that love AGS and what they love about them?
Michelle Williams was the first to wear the sandals in 2012 and since then a lot of actresses have followed, such as Naomi Watts, Anne Hathaway, Diana Kruger, models Gigi Hadid and Gisele Bundchen and singers like Rihanna and Beyoncé. I think like every other woman who wears AGS sandals; they value the simplicity of design, femininity, quality and comfort.
You designed shoes for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton before setting up your own brand.
What did working for those big fashion houses teach you?
I don’t think that I would have set up my own brand if I didn’t work for these two huge fashion houses. First of all the technical knowledge, a big part of my job was to be at the factories in Italy and follow the making of the prototypes so I got to witness how the most luxurious shoes in the world were made, I learnt the different leather qualities and the shoe constructions. I also learnt a lot from the marketing team how to form a complete shoe collection that makes sense to the customer on the shop floor.
What is the ideal outfit matched with ancient Greek sandals?
Anything really, from a wedding dress to jeans shorts and from a long bohemian kaftan to a little black dress.
In which place in the world do you think AGS fit ideally?
Anywhere the sun shines!
G-Star RAW Research X Aitor Throup
During Paris Men’s Fashion week, G-Star RAW has revealed it’s newest, most leading capsule-collection yet; G-Star RAW Research, in collaboration with artist Aitor Throup. When speaking about the collaboration, Throup explains he began collaborating after realizing the brands success comes from taking risks and questioning traditions of denim. After a few years of working together, naturally the brand and Throup came up with the idea to open a lab and explore new possibilities for all things denim.
Thus creating G-Star RAW Research. Aitor Throup has been working with G-Star on various projects and collections, since becoming its creative consultant back in 2014. This collection explores two points of development in the process of denim, one untreated, RAW denim, one bleached white with nearly no indigo left. The first G-Star RAW Research-capsule collection will be available in limited stores mid-November this year.
WOOLRICH SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Woolrich John Rich & Bros have for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection created a line-up with casual, organic apparel, blending two worlds together – The outdoors, a fishermen look with matching hat and wellies, and a city look with hints of sport and utility wear. The collection envisions garments which can shift through seasons, instead of being tied to one period. Its jackets are light, water-resistant and breathable, something every man needs. The collection is inspiration for the Woolrich E-bike, a bicycle developed in collaboration with Australian brand Deus.
MFW: MISSONI SPRING 2017
The Missoni Spring 2017 collection is heavily inspired by Guatemala, a trip Angela Missoni remembers going on with her mother when she was just 15 years old. The collection commences with contrasting tribal prints in knits and a vibrant colour palette in suits and shorts. Infused are embroidered shirts, white hats and brown pointy shoes, giving off a western feel. Missoni refers to the collection and her models as the “Gautemalan cowboys”.
MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2017
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2017 collection is the first one since the departure of Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The design team chose camping as its theme and was influenced by artist Jean Arp, as his colourful drawings were seen throughout the show as printed on ties and blouses. The collection is innovative but sensible, with suits that are contemporary yet classic. The camping theme came through with the use of stylized backpacks, but also hinted at through the use of some earthy colours.
MFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad retreats to the root of denim for Spring 2017. Melbostad was influenced by late American photographer Irving Penn's images collected in his “Small Trades” book, which showed a diverse range of working class people. As Diesel Black Gold established aesthetic is utilitarian and functional, you can understand the connection. Denim pants are styled with a variety of shirts, including a new kimono style. Proposing a sophisticated sporty touch, nylon is used in the collection in jackets and trousers. The look is complete with utility sandals and canvas sneakers.
Hugo 'Your Suit, Your Way'
HUGO’s ‘Your Suit, Your Way’ campaign breaks the boundaries of convention and reveals the dynamic attitude of the Superblack suit. Set on the edge of Malta’s dramatic coastline and the impressive sea arch, it provides the ultimate setting for cliff diver David Colturi to push himself, both physically and mentally, to demonstrate the Superblack suit’s power. The video finds Colturi standing determinedly in the suit on the cliff face, before breaking into a run, then leaping into the unknown, turning in the air and plunging into the sea.
The campaign delivers an unexpected perspective and shows how the HUGO Superblack suit, with its innovative tailoring and modern slim-fit style, inspires men to wear a suit in new, individual ways that defy convention. The message is clear: the Superblack suit, made using double-dyed yarn for a deep black color and iconic HUGO style, can be worn anytime, anywhere.
Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign
Eddie Redmayne takes centre stage in the new Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign. Redmayne, who is one of the of contemporary cinema’s most celebrated actors, is no stranger to immersing himself in historically significant characters. In the new menswear Prada campaign is presented the idea of the present moment itself being as a theatre of history. This idea is performed in a suite of striking portrait allusions. Redmayne, assumes a number of roles - hero, villain, revolutionary - either against a neutral grey background, or a rich red split by a romanticist view of idealized nature. Craig McDean’s pictures invoke 19th century neo-classical paintings, which famously played with surface and depth, illusion and reality. These photographs continue the spirit of the Prada Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear show, which presented an excursus through times past as a reflection on time present. Overall, the result is a contemporary masculinity that aligns worldly travel with intrepid self-knowledge and oblique, original thinking.
Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Available Now
Acne Studios’ Pre-Fall 2016 is available now. Satin slip dresses, plaids in contrasting colours and textures as well as the reaction of fire created in a print of torn paper makes for a vibrant and electric collection. The collection varies from camel pinstripe trousers to orange denim jackets, which gives the opportunity to explore trends and infuse new key pieces to your existing wardrobe. “I’m interested in how groups of kids mirror each other's look and wear certain items for a sense of belonging. When we put these looks together, I wanted to explore that short period where there's that tension between individuality and the group dynamic”, says Creative Director Jonny Johansson, the brands Creative Director.
LC:M Lou Dalton
White socks and sandals. The ultimate fashion faux pass made acceptable during Lou Dalton’s show at London Collections: Men. Dalton found inspiration from her personal life for this collection, as she revealed she was influenced by the walks her brother and she used to have up the Yorkshire Moors when she was young. This collection includes nylons jackets and airy cottons, suitable for said walks. A couple of models wear a back-to-front bag on their chests, which is also handy whilst on a hike. The colour story is also appealing, going from dark navy and blacks to rich reds, yellows and stripes. It’s a practical collection, but beautiful none the less. Dalton collaborated with knitwear company John Smedley with a line of jumpers, featured in the line-up, immediately available after the show.
LC:M Topman Design
London Collections Men kicked off last week with launch parties introducing the four-day event on Thursday. Friday, Topman Design was the first to present their Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The line-up was a mixture of trends and styles, lead by pastel colours. Models appeared with wet hair and sun burnt cheeks, jumpers and shorts were embellished with ice creams, dolphins and palm trees, hinting to a tropical aesthetic and the idea of unwinding by the pool.
New Collection The Vampire's Wife
Strongly influenced by her husband, Nick Cave’s lyrics and with a desire to create the feminine and delicate clothing she was missing, Susie Cave created her own fashion brand. Having had more than 20 years experience in the fashion industry prior to starting up the business, she knows what looks and feels good on women and what doesn’t work. The former model worked closely together with her friend Alex Ademson and founded the new brand The Vampire’s Wife when she couldn’t find anything she’d like to wear. As she told Vogue the garments are, amongst other things, inspired by Russian Ballet and raw nature. The new collection has just been launched and is available on matchesfashion.com
Versace and Bruce Weber, A Golden Match
Versace has collaborated with photographer Bruce Weber on their Fall/Winter 2016 campaign. Weber is not a stranger to the brand, as he is behind most historic images for the brand ever since they started working together in 1990. This time around the campaign features supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Dilone in different scenarios. One of them being an ultra dazzling and glossy life-style, the other a day-to-day stroll with the kids, a modern looking family. The images show the versatility of the items and thus making it relatable. Shot in Chicago, Weber has decided to include men and womenswear together. Donatella Versace speaks highly of the collaboration with Weber, as they haven't worked together since 1999, with the following; ”Bruce Weber is the true master of our time. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back.”
CHANEL Métiers d'Art 2015/16 "Paris à Rome" Campaign
The Parisian elegance is perfectly combined with the Italian glamour in the Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection of the CHANEL House. The new collection is elegant and absolutely feminine, showing the unique savoir-faire of Métiers d'Art, in combination with the creativity of Karl Lagerfeld. The black and white silhouettes are playing with contrasts, combining the mules’ tip with leather or the extravagance of XXL metal jewelry with the simplicity of a knitted pullover. The tights have a masterfully made lace patchwork and the mules are in two colors, black and white; the characteristic colors of CHANEL. Sensual under a coat or leather dress or reluctant with a tweed suit, which is lined with a "filmstrip", these tights bring a flowing silk crepe dress shine or can be simple worn with a warm wool sweater or an organza- made blouse. Karl Lagerfeld works once again with the American actress Kristen Stewart in the advertising campaign. In plush ambience of a Parisian apartment Kristen Stewart embodies with her smoky eyes and red lipstick, a hot-blooded heroine, like an Italian black and white film.
The Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection also shows a new version of 2:55 handbag that is now available in ultra-soft calfskin. It is an elegant understatement variation in this "house icon", with a very Parisian charm of minimalist chic. This is an innovation that continues this wonderful history of luxury in perfect harmony with the Air du Temps.
Gucci Menswear Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017
Gucci has a fresh and youthful approach on this Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017 collection.
Alessandro Michele reinvented the house by taking snippets of its past, mostly from its heydays in the 70s, and reworking them into something that feels both reverential of their origins but also distinctly neoteric.
The collection was unique, distinctive, and unforgettable. The clothes had the compulsorily trinity needed to satisfy the social media saturated consumers of today. The retro style remains on the Menswear collection and the colours are bright with red, burgundy, green and blue to conquer on this collection while the patterns have stripes, animal print, chequer and floral.
John Varvatos Opening of First Moscow Store
John Varvatos celebrated the opening of the John Varvatos Moscow store, making it the brand's 25th retail store globally. The party that took place in Crocus City Mall included a star-studded, black carpet arrival and rock star-worthy VIP party, featuring a special live performance by the legendary Russian rock band, Bi-2. The guests had the chance to experience an authentic rock concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
Many Russian celebrities and personalities came out to celebrate the store’s opening. Among the A-list guests were the Russian singer-songwriter and businessman Emin Agalarov, and his father, billionaire entrepreneur, Aras Agalorov. Also, actor Pavel Tabakov, singer Ani Lorak, singer/television entertainer Inna Malikova, singer Anna Sedokova and other VIP personalities from Russian entertainment, show business, cinema, theater and fashion. Immediately after the live music performance, the celebration continued with an after party at the exclusive Rose Bar, where guests were treated to a special and thrilling fire performance including juggling, baton twirling, poi spinning, fire breathing and eating, and fireworks display.
The new store is meticulously curated with an emphasis on delivering the full John Varvatos offering, highlighting distinctively sophisticated yet versatile wardrobe selections that are ideal for dressier outings, and fit seamlessly into the lifestyle of stylish men everywhere.
The new store hosts the full spectrum of the brand's offerings, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star U.S.A. and Converse by John Varvatos.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
Daring and self-confident is Louis Vuitton’s woman as appears in the Pre-Fall 2016 Travel campaign. Louis Vuitton launches the Capucines and the City Steamer handbags and gives the handbags’ trend for the fall. The City Steamer bags come in new colors like black and pink with Burgundy piping and Black and White with honey brown handle. Even though The Steamer was first created in 1901 and it was the first supple bag, today’s modern heroine loves it since it has become a true city bag. The second handbag model we saw in pre-fall 2016 collection of Louis Vuitton is the Capucines; red and black leather as well as pink crocodile leather are the colours and materials that the firm suggests for Capucines bags. The Capucine is a discreetly elegant new signature bag that incarnates the Maison and its know-how. Both handbag collections take pride of place in Louis Vuitton’s Travel campaign. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, has captured the dynamic profile of today’s woman in the face of the actress and Louis Vuitton’s new muse Léa Seydoux. Louis Vuitton campaigns continue their architectural journey by setting this last campaign in the Ranch, a building designed by the Mexican architect Luis Barragan.
Lady Dior: As Seen By...Travels the World
Exhibitions all over the world are beyond captivating, but at some point, those who see one piece interpreted by a range of artists are actually the most fun to attend. There is something intriguing about the speculation what an artist might make of something, along with a refreshing twist given in each art piece. Dior jumped on this train of excitement by hosting their traveling exhibition “Lady Dior: As Seen By”, with its last stop to date made at the Langen Foundation in Düsseldorf. The display sees different artists, from Olympia Scarry to Katharina Sieverding, display their vision of the notorious Lady Dior bag. Glass creations stand next to wall art set in space; some artist focus on the bag handle, some melt the whole piece down. As Seen By initially kicked off in Shanghai in 2011 and has been traveling the world since. Until it moves to the next city, maybe consider what your take on the famous bag would be...we'd already have a list with ideas at the ready.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Breathe in some real alternative Berlin spirit. Get into 900m2 raw and industrial concept store LNFA which offers extraordinary shopping experience with a spice of exceptional style and mess. It presents carefully selected 90 young fashion designers from Germany, France, Italy, Turkey, Russia, Japan and Mexico. Combination of fashion, art, design, advertising, music and film industries brings the individual style to the aesthetics.
Among the bestsellers, daily inspiration comes from Studio Gampe, Siyah, Marcell Von Berlin, Thomas Hanisch, Preach, Esther Perbandt and Marcel Ostertag. Their creativity is implemented by Berlin streetstyle fashion and ever changing trends.
Get lost in a chaos and find yourself in the harmonious place which is the whole ever changing Berlin city collected into one location. Live through networking, fashion and arts.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016
It seems like after seasons of blazing colours, logo prints fast food and toy designs, Jeremy Scott has found another way to express himself. His latest Moschino Fall/Winter collection is no shy one, but definitely a retreat from the bold and buzzing statements made in the last seasons. This collections is more of an outlook back on Pop culture: it's a little Madonna, in the 80s, a little of the 2000s, a bit of Kate-Moss-street style from 2010. That speaks for the first half of the collection, at least. After half of the looks have vanished from the runway, eccentric Scott is back on track. Burning ball gowns alluding to the 15th century find their climax in a design that sports a larger-than-life chandelier that surprisingly is not the show finale. That, in fact, is maybe more Scott himself, as he struts down the runway trough the gold-framed show scenery. One thing's for sure: with Moschino, boredom is eradicated from the dictionary. He is the one to open doors to his own underground club, where Madonna, Kate Moss and all the other faces party until dawn. Or until their dresses burn. That is, if they haven't before.
Fay Fall/Winter 2016
When we think of cowgirls, the outdated cliché that most likely pops to mind is pink fringes, hot pants and knotted check blouses. Fay’s Fall/Winter collection has none of that. At Milan Fashion Week, the outerwear label presented a collection that was designed for the cool cowgirl, the one that rocks a hoedown with understatement instead of on a mechanic bull. With a color palette very much sticking to blacks, dark blues, greys and browns, the collection is ready to be worn not only in the desert but on the city sidewalk. However, it's not all gloomy western with Fay-designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Shifty floral dresses that end mid-thigh release the collection of its seriousness and add a light and very, say, “western chic”. Between that, the designs also feature allusions to other cultures, with vaguely aztec patterns reminding of even more southern inspirations. The finishing touch comes in form of glittering, fringed and embroidered party dresses, taking the selection from the saloon to the salon. Slip into one of Fay's new designs and we'll bet you, you'll never get that odd cowgirl cliché again.
Emilio Pucci F/W 16
With a green coat and a striped jacket, Emilio Pucci started its Milan Fashion Week show quite subtle. One look later though, the Italian brand went in for the big bang - and that speaks for the rest of the show. This season, no piece at Pucci goes without pattern, without fluorescent colours or newly assembled stripes. Starting with patterns that in their design recall mountaintops, the collection then went to full-on patterned looks, from chevron stripes meeting modern-art-inspired colour blocking to a mixture of camouflage and flower power creating a whole new look. Shiny tops blazing the brand name in its classic writing break up this potpourri of patterns, while plain coloured coats also give the eye a break. Emilio Pucci went in for the big bang, but we don’t mind, since that mountaintop pattern looked so good, we’re definitely fancying a ski trip now.
Photos: Monica Feudi
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
CHANEL SS16 Eyewear
It’s doesn’t even last a minute, but the new CHANEL eyewear campaign literally flashes you. The mini moving image is defined by flashing blue lights, creating an iridescent atmosphere that recalls both ambulance sirens and dance club nights. Amidst this lightshow sits no one other than CHANEL’s favorite associate Cara Delevingne, sporting a simple hat and, of course, the prominent sunglasses. While the glasses themselves allude to the look of a mirror mask, their special trait is the “quilted” border, created by laser cut fabrication. It is those lines that breathe more CHANEL into the sunglasses than into any pair ever before. Wear them to the club or on the high-street - these glasses will have the attention flashed at you just like the lights flash at Cara.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
RedValentino Spring/Summer Campaign feat. Birdy
She’s the girl with the angel voice, the delicate songstress that made hits at an age where others were concerned with anything but landing record deals: Birdy. Now, the 19-year old British singer has been tapped for a fashion campaign. Valentino sublabel REDValentino cast the singer as their new testimonial. The scenery takes her to London’s Edwardian theater Bush Hall. In the dimly-lit setting, Birdy moves like the grande dame, or as Valentino puts it, a modern-day Marie Antoinette. Never dropping her ethereal and dreamy attitude, she poses on a piano in shiny black gear or takes the stage dressed in a floral see-through dress. “I love the enchanted world of REDValentino and the romantic dresses that have always been associated with the brand, so I was delighted to be part of this collaboration and to have my music in the campaign” Birdy gushed over the campaign. By her music she means her song Winter playing in the background, supporting the both romantic and magical atmosphere. Least to say, we’re enchanted, too.
The campaign is launched exclusively on www.redvalentino.com.
Eastpak X Tim Coppens
Over time, high fashion has encountered many unusual and unexpected collaborators. At New York Men's Fashion Week, it was once again met with another surprising category: backpacks. For his F/W collection, designer Tim Coppens teamed up with no other brand than classic backpack manufacturer Eastpak. The American brand, which has defined the backs of many on their way to school and university and the designer have previously collaborated for Eastpaks Artist Studio line. The 2016 rucksack line is the first collection of the collaborators after the work on the studio. Presented during Coppens' show at NYMFW, the collection consists of bags that are constructed from a lot of influences. Just like Eastpak, Coppens finds his inspiration in international youth cultures. The new designs carry everything (metaphorically and literally) : traits of Japanese street wear, technical materials, unexpected color combinations met with western influences and finest craftsmanship. Available only as a limited edition, the collection presents backpacks in four colors, made from high-quality leather and adorned with contrasting lacing. Mesh inserts give the necessary sporty touch while an easy-to-handle top flap makes space for all belongings. Eastpak is no longer seen on the way to school, but on the way to rule the cat – and sidewalk.
ZUMA Restaurant to Open at Palazzo Fendi Rome
From March on, Rome’s Palazzo Fendi will be host to both high fashion and haute cuisine. The London based, award-winning restaurant ZUMA will open its tenth international and first Italian collection in rooms provided by the FENDI brand. The chefs take their inspiration from the popular Japanese izakaya’s, in which relaxed drinking and eating that embrace Japanese cookery are combined under one roof. Put simply, the ZUMA system focuses on modern Japanese dining that is authentic but not traditional. Guests will be able to experience the world of three kitchens: the main kitchen, the sushi counter and the robata grill. Here, guests can watch food become their dish: the chefs prepare the meals under an open view. Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Tokyo-based Studio Glitt has designed the Restaurant rooms, which respect the cultural heritage of the Palazzo Fendi whilst also capturing the style and elegance of ZUMA worldwide. ZUMA will be open for lunch Tuesday – Sunday from 12:00 midday to 14:30 and will be open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 19:30 to 23:00. Buon apetito!
Cecconi's Opens at The Store x Soho House Berlin
What to do after an exhausting shopping spree, after enjoying some music and art, after having taken in so much creativity that your stomach just craves the perfect dish? The answer just opened. “Cecconi's” has unlocked its doors at 2800 square meter location The Store in Berlin's Soho House. Being one of the go-to-places in the German capital, the Soho House inlcudes a publicly accessible ground floor which will now also be home to some of the finest Italian dishes. Cecconi's has already amazed guests in the UK, US and Istanbul and will feature a various menu with classic Northern Italian dishes. On there, guests will find cichetti (Italian tapas), appetizers, carpaccio, tartare, salads, pizza, pasta and risotto, vegetables and wood and charcoal dishes. All that is to be enjoyed surrounded by the stripped-back Soho House interior, combined with Venetian flair. Grab a bite under Art Deco-inspired chandeliers hanging against a concrete backdrop or sling back a glass of wine in one of the cherry-red leather booths. You don't even need to go shopping for that. No explanation needed. Just enjoy.
Icosae F/W 16
Take the cash and run – a thought than some of us might encounter more than once in life. For Icosae, it’s the title to their latest F/W 16 designs, shown at Paris Fashion Week. They took the cash and ran, ran through time in particular. The designers drew inspiration from a vast pool of media and youth cultures. From groups like London suede heads to the techno music generation, they extracted inspiration from music, photography, drawing, sculpting and mostly paintings. The result is a balance between realism and just enough abstraction that ends up in a deconstruction of tailoring proportions. Asymetrical shapes mark this collection just as much as the dark colors that underline the urban atmosphere. Take the cash and run – but only dressed in Icosae.
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
ODEUR F/W 16/17
ODEUR’s designers Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger once again showcased a dramatic yet relaxed collection. Exactly just how they pull it off is their trade secret, but for FW 16/17 they have once again struck proverbial gold in black and white. Hints of Yves Klein blue and boxy black an white patterns livened up the epic battle of night and day, good vs. evil. ODEUR’s pieces are inherently Nordic cool; each one ready for an impromptu street style photograph without trying to hard. Crisp, layered shirts paired with cropped bottoms and oversized sweaters sound overwhelming. Here they just work. Men in tunics and dresses? Sounds costume-y, but oh boy does it work. The sporty unisex designs live off of their restraint, and work on both the male and female form, never overpowering the model or being vulgar. For FW16/17 ODEUR once again managed to add to the timeless cool kid uniform.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 16/17
At Lemaire’s menswear presentation, dark colors and very classic cuts were in store. The label presented a menswear wardrobe perfectly suitable for its wearers daily business. Classic single and double -breasted coats were featured next to simple jackets with oversized pockets and slim-cut blazers. Paired with a sophisticated black cape and baggy pleated trousers, the outerwear makes for a contemporary look that the Lemaire man can take on a business meeting, a date, or just pop out for a drink in. It’s versatility that makes good clothing, and we thank Lemaire for delivering just that.
KENZO Fall 16/17
To find inspiration for their latest collection, KENZO designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon lived the jet set life. Multiple journeys to japan and numerous concerts are base to their F/W 16/17 designs. Therefore, Japanese culture in its entirety, but especially music and concerts play a distinctively important part: the new KENZO collection is an ode in itself, an ode to music, an ode to fans, and to positivity. Leon and Lim were fascinated by the unique connection between musicians and their fanbase and wanted to emphasize the feeling of positivity that is harbored by a concert crowd. But how does one translate such a feeling into clothing? KENZO does by creating a relaxed look with a nevertheless slim silhouette. Comfortable wool pants combined with faux crocodile leather jackets melt the cool and the eccentric, the latter supported by a mix of psychedelic prints. Attention to detail is key, with peace-symbol buttons and the KENZO founder signature used as embellishment completing a vast collection. What to do now? Check for plane tickets to Japan. Or at least for a concert ticket. Or both. Jet set is on!
Xavi Reyes FW 16/17
The Spaniard followed the call of Berlin’s capital to present his FW 16/17 collection during MBFWB, while the key players of this season’s official campaign, Natasha Poly, Atsuko Kudo and Jeff Barks had flocked to the front row from their previous Fashion Talk to take in the unisex designs. Combining the masculine and the feminine, futurism and tradition in edgy cuts, asymmetry, muted hues and free silhouettes. Inspired by his home, the Extremadura, he breaks melancholy severity with romantic elements such as white embroidered lace, flounces and oriental patterns oh so typical for the southern Spanish region.
Dries Van Noten: Peacock and Psychedelic F/W 16
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is quite well defined by its own accessories. Listen up, and create your own image of it: Army style marching boots, classic city and dress shoes, faux fur coat collars worn as shawls and, last but not least, golf shoe tassles worn separately. Such a summary of deconstructed, estranged characteristics applies to the whole collection. This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a modern day peacock that displays his feathers with pride. Besides that, there is some psychedelic jugendstil displayed. The Van Noten wearer is an iconoclast that carries his very own uniform. Still, uniforms have also soaked into this collection. Insignia of regalia are ripped off and embellished onto the wardrobe of an iconic man. Bullions are worn as badges of ornament – restraint is not on the menu for Van Noten these days. Far more, he is all about deconstruction: clothing construction is subverted and the silhouettes, materials and colors mix in an open-minded assembly. Forms of formality of the sartorial are met with the oversized, robust uniform wools go along with silk jacquards, fine cashmere and velvet. The colors also spill broadly, from classic, to military, to outright flamboyant. Today, with Dries Van Noten, we’re not just us. We’re like a peacock. Only with this collection, each of our feathers looks different.
Marina Hoermanseder Lifts Off for F/W 2016
Amelia Earheart without a doubt was one of the most impressive women in this world. Flying across the Atlantic Ocean as the first woman to do so, she has established a legend-status that has been mentioned across various media for years. What stands out in all of this coverage is her imperturbable passion and bravery. Marina Hoermanseder takes that as an inspiration for her F/W 16/17 collection. Inevitably, the garments mirror Earhart’s looks in form of flight jackets, pleat-fronted trousers and hooded coats. Female self-determination meets subtle, masculine notes. Hoermanseder’s woman is independent and displays her femininity in a charming way. Embroidered embellishments and shiny buckles add both a functional and fashionable touch. These details support the use of premium leather and make the looks a high-end “avion” style. Without a doubt, Amelia Earheart was one of the most impressive women in this world. And we’re quite sure she would have felt pretty good in this gear.
G-Star RAW Celebrates
For G-Star, the 20th anniversary of their most famous denim design must feel like the growing up of the first-born child. Elwood 5620, the brand's most revolutionary and cult piece, turns 20 this year. Thus, in celebration spirits, G-Star has decided to do what maybe separates this celebration from a normal child's birthday: they're throwing an all-year party. At the end of every month, a new Limited Edition design of the Elwood 5620 will be revealed. Among these editions will be collaborations with artists and former G-Star cooperators. And it has already kicked off: for January, the G-Star Elwood Moto was released, homage to the Enduro races that took place until the late 1960s. The original Elwood 5620 model was released back in 1996, as the first denim pants to feature 3D-denim technology and a design unique to its name. Until now, the Elwood has stayed relevant to G-Star and has become a brand DNA of sorts. As the cherry on top of the birthday celebrations, Ellen Von Unwerth shot a special SS16 campaign only dedicated to the pants. Any birthday wishes left? We don't think so.
Leaves of Stone: Guiseppe Penone at Gagosian Hong Kong
January 21st, 2016 marks the start of the first ever Hong Kong exhibition of Italian artist Guiseppe Penone. “Foglie di Pietra/Leaves of Stone” displays key works from the past decade. The exhibition's title was inspired by the eponymous art piece from 2013: a series of sculptures made of bronze tree branches and found fragments of eighteenth century ornamental stonework that on the other hand were also inspired by vegetal forms. This interdependence is no rare occurrence in Penone’s work: especially the tree and its relationship to man seem to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration. In a work phase of over 40 years, Penone has assembled a splendid collection of art works on his CV. His pieces mark the persistence of biological life while reimagining nature in the artificial way. “Leaves of Stone” is set to run until March 21, 2016. The opening reception will be held on the opening date from 6-8 pm.
GUCCI’s Poetic Reactivation: Men’s F/W 16
Every time Alessandro Michele takes a step, the fashion world vibrates. His every move is a burst of creativity, a glittering bomb exploding with past, present and future inside. Alessandro Michele is the fashion epitome of Alice in Wonderland’s hat maker, not crazy, but creative, his work always immensely layered but unique in it’s own ways. For GUCCI, he presents one multifaceted collection after the other. With the latest GUCCI menswear designs Michele followed his own path while establishing a new interpretation of time. The collection, titled “Poetic Reactivation”, refers to our system of past and memory as incorrect. Michele wants to explore memory as an interpretative and poetic field, while destroying pieces of the past at the same time. The idea of an inexorably finished past is eradicated, but the collection still is an “assemblage” of fragments from preceding decades and centuries. It’s complex, but so is GUCCI, and so is the collection. You never have enough space to go through it. GUCCI itself describes it as an “excess of sense”. How true, we couldn’t have put it better.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016
Ermenigildo Zegna Couture steps up to its name at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, making a proud statement of cutting-edge couture tailoring with the leading motif of “embellishment”. Now, embellishment doesn’t primarily refer to the clothing, but to the idea behind it. For this collection, Stefano Pilati focused on the current zeitgeist of self-advertising and the need to distinguish. In other words: embellishment. He transfers this into a sophisticated, rather fearless wardrobe defined by the exhibition of patterns. Masculine motifs are fused with the lushness of the fabrics, which emphasizes once again the “couture” attitude. Nevertheless, embellishment DOES also refer to the fabrics. They are adorned with three dimensional hand embroideries, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquard patterns. The result is a collection with elegance, unregulated in its formality, embodying the classic Zegna attitude. Embellished, and established!
New DKNY Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
The new year is only two weeks old, but most of us have probably forgotten about our New Year’s resolutions already. DKNY certainly has not, as it must have been one of their resolutions to introduce the new year with their SS16 advertising campaign. Captured by Lachlan Bailey, in it Adrienne Juliger poses as the embodiment of the new DKNY woman: powerful, nuanced and complex. This year, her actions speak louder than her clothes, which let her be herself in every way, every day. Thus, the clothes are a collection of simple, minimalist designs featuring the key colors black and white. Straight cutting goes along with high-end, clean accessories and gives the DKNY woman the space to bounce through everyday life with strength. The campaign is the first to be released under the lead of new Creative Directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. Along with new designs, the brand also presents a new graphic logo, which is layered in big, bold letters over the pictures. The new year may only be two weeks old, but for DKNY, this resolution can already be crossed off the list.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Louis Vuitton and Al Dente: "LV & Me"
Louis Vuitton is here to teach us the alphabet again. Only this time, it’s the Louis Vuitton alphabet. For their new jewellery collection, the fashion house teamed up with Paris creative agency Al Dente to create a campaign that explores all the letters – from A to Z, quite literally. Designed by Camille Micheli, “LV & Me” encapsulates bold silver and gold jewellery, focusing on letters to be assembled freely. An interactive digital capsule, supported by a 1970’s song by Amanda Lear, leads the campaign. As she intonates in her unique style nonchalant confessions as “G stands for getting divorced”, Lear takes the viewer through both alphabet and collection. The movie has also been duplicated in 7 videos and can be viewed below and on the Louis Vuitton website. There, jewellery fans can take on their own spelling bee as they create their personalised video featuring Lear’s explanations. Users are encouraged to share their experience across Social Media, where teasers and photos will also be spread. Getting to the final letter, Lear’s voice tells us: “Z is for the zero you will get, if you don’t learn my alphabet.” We’re on it, we are.
Moschino feat. Gilbert & George: FW Men 16
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott might just be one of the most contemporary designers of our time. After having incorporated the world of fast food chains and Barbie dolls in his past designs, with the AW 16 menswear collection, he is onto the next collaboration. This time, only, it’s art. Scott met up with artist duo Gilbert & George and, after a round of tea, was granted full access to their artworks for the new Moschino collection. The designer jumped at the possibility and therefore included everything he could: the new designs feature collaged coats, knit cardigans and jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. Typography, words and phrases have also been taken along. Other garments are peppered with crucifix patches that refer to G&G’s 1982 art piece “Youth Faith”. According to Scott, everything in Gilbert & George’s work speaks to him, from the saturated colors to the slogans and provocative attitude. Well, this could just be a match made in heaven.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Este Arte – International Contemporary Art Fair
Kicking off on January 5th, Punta del Este in Uruguay will once again host the “Este Arte” Fair, an international event dedicated to both historical avant-gardes and contemporary artists. Following the success of the fair’s last edition, it will once again feature a varied palette of events and exhibitions. Art lovers will find nearly any form of art displayed, ranging from paintings and sculptures to photographs and videos. In addition, Este Arte will present a cultural agenda that enables a dialogue among artists, collectors, critics and curators. Set to run every year, the event was installed to be a cultural landmark in the South American art system and to empower both institutional and private collections. The fair opens it’s doors with a VIP preview on January 5th and will be open to the public from 6pm to 11pm on the remaining days. Well, why not start the new year with a trip to Uruguay?
A VERY MERRY SPECIAL TUNE – MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM ZOO
Christmas is nothing without a good soundtrack. Therefore, we at ZOO created a unique YouTube playlist for you to listen to – wherever you are in the world. It includes everything from kitsch classics to unexpected renditions from HipHop and Rock artists. Enjoy!
The Art of Deception: Heart Transplants Restyled
To this day, many, many things have been manipulated for aesthetic purposes. In fact, we’re running out of the things that haven’t. Still, organ transplants come in quite unexpected on this list. For their latest project, “The Art of Deception”, designer Isaac Monté and university professor Toby Kiers have teamed up to discover how we can manipulate our bodies in the future – aesthetically and medically. As a part of the “Body of Matter” exhibit in MU Eindhoven, 21 manipulated organ transplants are on display. The transplants were made from discarded animal hearts and have been resurrected through the process of “decellularization”. After being stripped of its cellular contents, during this process the heart becomes a “blank page” to be repopulated by new human cells. The team around Monté and Kiers did not hold back: fluorescent colors, tattoos and even brand logos are now more “in our hearts” than ever. With this project, the duo seeks to explore how humans use deception to reach perfection in society, science and art. The hearts are on display until February 7.
Copzright Atelier Monté 2015
Burberry Unveils New SS16 Campaign
Since Burberry premiered its festive campaign with emerging British talents earlier this year, it seems like time has flown by. The next campaign, Spring Summer 2016, is out and again features the promising talents of tomorrow. This time, only, they originate from the fashion scene. The latest designs are being premiered by future faces such as models Hayett Belarbi McCarthy, Misha Hart, May & Ruth Bell and many more. Shot by Mario Testino in London, the “cast” of this new campaign reflects the attitude of the new collection – energetic and vibrant. Featured in their first ever Snapchat campaign in October, the ready-to-wear pieces center around one new key item: the Burberry rucksack. For this new accessory, Christopher Bailey and his team dug deep into the archives and found inspiration the military section from the early 20th century. The new product is a lightweight carryall with a soft structure and multi-zip pocket added for functionality. Functionality is also the theme behind the new womenswear designs: “Functionregalia” links regalia elements with function clothing. The menswear collection follows a similar path: sartorial clothing is mixed with unconventional elements. All of this does not neglect the key Burberry items: trench coats, scarves, ponchos – it’s all there and frankly, it wouldn’t be Burberry without them. With each collection, the British brand proves once more that tradition in no way equals boredom: whether it’s materials, shapes or colors – Burberry’s reinvention is endless. If only time wouldn’t fly by so fast.
© Copyright Burberry/Testino
LOEWE FOUNDATION x Miami Beach Art Basel
What do a black cup, an oil painting and a chair made of legs have in common? They’re historical and contemporary art pieces, displayed in the exhibition “Chance Encounter”, hosted by the LOEWE FOUNDATION within the context of this year’s Miami Beach Art Basel. Curated by LOEWE’s very own creative director Jonathan Anderson, the exhibition evaluates the disruptive beauty of the chance encounter by creating unexpected conversations between the works of four British artists: Lucie Rie, Rose Wylie, Anthea Hamilton and Paul Nash. This set up will create new images, connect ideas and act as a convergence of past, present and future. A main point among these movements also is to give this art exchange time, as the exhibition is set to “slow things down”. “Chance Encounter” can be visited until January 17th at the LOEWE store in Miami’s Design District.
Björk Premieres Music Video for Mouth Mantra
Icelandic singer Björk takes viewers inside her own mouth in her latest music video. “Mouth Mantra” is taken from her album “Vulnicura” and reportedly focuses on a vocal surgery Björk had to face. “I was not heard”, she exclaims in the lyrics, to later conclude: “I am not hurt”. The accompanying visuals to “Mouth Mantra” now give fans an insight into Björk’s throat. Starting off with a zoom-in on a pink tongue, the video then moves to distorted images inside the whole mouth. Further on, the artist herself is seen dancing in a bodysuit, decorated with white straps. Dark backgrounds and dimmed light create the mysterious atmosphere that has defined the singer’s work for years. Safe to say that with this one, Björk, you will be heard.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
The HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award 2015 Winner is Announced
Maria Taniguchi has been crowned winner of the 2015 HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award for Emerging Artists with a tidy ¥300,000 award. Narrowly missing out were the five other nominated artists, Guan Xiao, Huang Po-?Chih, Moe Satt, Vandy Rattana and Yang Xinguang, who are exhibited their works alongside Taniguchi at the Rockbund Art Museum (RAM) until January 3, 2016. Marc Le Mat, the Managing Director of HUGO BOSS CHINA RETAIL CO. LTD, and Larys Frogier, RAM Director, announced the Philippines artist as the winner in light of her extraordinary paintings, sculptures and videos investigating time and space with social and historical contexts.
BOSS, Bauhaus, Bespoke
The last director of the Bauhaus movement once said, “The Bauhaus was no an institution. It was an idea. An idea as readily applied to clothing as to buildings – architecture for the body”.
It’s no surprise that BOSS Creative Director Jason Wu has had a long-standing admiration of the Bauhaus movement. Its rigorous geometric lines form the basis of many a post-2014 BOSS collection, after Wu has combined such Bauhaus principles with the BOSS DNA of exceptional precise menswear tailoring to create a new look for the modern woman.
Now Wu looks to this artistic movement again, and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus artwork of Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky in his new interpretation of the classic BOSS Bespoke handbag. With a dramatic yet simplistic aesthetic, the vibrant palette of the Modernist “intarsia” bag is patterned in various luxurious materials, such as suede, box-calf and embossed lizard and crocodile prints…if Wu’s time at BOSS could be summed up in one item, it would have to be this one.
Public School Pre-Fall 2016
In their international debut, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have taken a break from NYC and flocked to Dubai, courtesy of iconic motor company Cadillac XT5, to show their Pre-Fall Collection. It seems quite fitting then that the designer’s inspiration for this line, which they are presenting in a desert’s built up city, are the disparate themes of technology versus nature. Osborne and Chow’s signature long silhouette of tunics for either gender take on a definite ethnic feeling in these surroundings, heightened by their accompanying kimono inspired jackets and reinterpretations of Japanese Shibori prints. Injecting the urban undertone that these designers have made their name on are layered loose knits and a lot of mesh.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
October 21, 2015, saw Terranova and Brixton’s finest Stereo MC’s team up to launch “Connected” – a label primarily for contemporary electronic music. In joining the venture, the Cologne-based electro music label Kompakt act as distributors. With a focus on quality, vinyl records accompany digital releases, artworks are fresh and original, whilst a platform is provided for music artists to bounce ideas of each other and cultivate something really special in their sound.
To mark this occasion and as a symbol of a long, productive working relationship between Terranova and Stereo MC’s, they’ve created “connected 001”, a limited edition product package, available axclusively at No.74 or www.connected.co.com. Included in this is a logo-printed sweatshirt complete with lettering by Berlin-based artist Carsten Fock. There is also a USB stick, with Terranova’s dubversion of “connected” by the Stereo MC’s and an hour long DJ mix…Could you ask for more?
On December 4, 2015, the label will release their first record by the two founders, before an album of the same nature and a number of songs from likeminded artists…Exciting stuff!
BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre
In an exploration between the relationship of art and theatre, Tate Modern presents a varied program of events as part of this year’s BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks. An ongoing partnership for four years now, the BMW Tate Live brings focus to innovative performances with interdisciplinary art, digitalized spaces, seminars and workshops.
Inspired by the performance “BMW Tate Live: Paulina Olowska The Mother An Unsavoury Play in Two Acts and an Epilogue”, artists, curators, actors, theatre directors and writers come together to offer the public a chance to engage in the day’s events. Events in this year’s series include “Absence and Hope", led by theatre maker Rachel Mars, whilst the visual artist Kate Tiernan and theatre director Katie Mitchell lead “Rehearsal: Words and Gestures”, a workshop exploring body language as communication. Using the gallery as a stage for live performances, speeches, choreography and dramatizations, this really is a unique way to get involved.
The "BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre" events occur on 31 October, 2015, from 11.00-22.00 at the Tate Modern, London.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Espace Louis Vuitton München Presents “Predestined Colour Waves” - Sheila Hicks
In Germany’s first monographic exhibition of Paris-based, American artist Sheila Hicks since 1970, the Espace Louis Vuitton München is pleased to host “Predestined Colour Waves”. With colour, texture and structure providing her primary interests, Hicks’ work consists of hand-woven miniatures, mid-size bas-relief panels, soft sculptures and monumental installations. With a background of Modernism and knowledge of historical textiles, Hicks pushes to investigate new cultures by means of painting, photography and especially architecture.
The current exhibition documents Hicks’ long-standing conversation with architecture and presents the impressive large-scale installations “Alterrissage” (2014) and “La Femma Principale Bluma” (2015). Not only this, but the collection of works also involve Sydney Biennale Sketches (2015), part of her contribution to the 2016 event, and prototype models of her 1967 Ford Foundation silk bas-relief tapestries, which were recreated in 2013-14, among other artworks.
Espace Louis Vuitton München exhibits “Predestined Colour Waves” from artist Sheila Hicks from October 8, 2015, until January 23, 2016.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The virtual age is taking over and Louis Vuitton is yet another label this season choosing to comment. Unlike his contemporaries however, Nicolas Ghesquière’s opinion is not one of doom or disaster but ferocity and strength.
Absorbed in a cyberspace setting, the look was digital and fierce. Military inspired leather jackets worn with metal textured mini skirts and chained platform sandals introduced a new wave of punks. Patchwork trousers with silver zippers reappeared throughout the show in various forms, whilst beaded knitwear provided a kind of protective armour.
The classic Louis Vuitton print was splashed sparingly on jacket sleeves whilst the ruched drawstring bag in look 45 proved a real stand out in the accessories and no doubt a must have this season.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to shy away from the theatrics. His current season for Chanel was shown in a decked out Grand Palais with the theme of an airport.
Models were jetsetters wearing aviator sunglasses, gloves and mini luggage-case purses, strolling through the airport to catch their flight.
Lagerfeld, who has clearly had enough of joggers and tracksuits in his business class surroundings, created a line of luxury, which he deems more appropriate as in-flight attire. This included leather calf-length A-line skirts worn over matching wide-leg trousers, a number of denim puffed sleeves and fabulous bejeweled bodices. This is Lagerfeld at his finest.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Announce New Womenswear Campaign
The values of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s label explore functionality within the urban context of street wear. Primarily concerned in protecting the curvatures and geometric angles of the human body, Saberi adopts innovative techniques when experimenting with fabrics, reimagining and rearranging in a destructured style. Previously only creating menswear lines, this campaign presents the growing prominence of the women’s collection for the brand in an exclusive preview on our ZOO Magazine site.
The Spring/Summer 2016 Collections combine aspects of two fundamentally different worlds, work wear versus deep-sea diving suits. Inspired by the construction of neoprene suits, Saberi reimagines some of the label’s most signature looks using organic materials in a wholly novel light. The sheer inquisitive nature of the luxury fashion brand, along with high quality tailoring and handcrafted passion, means for an inspiring collection composed of forward-thinking creativity.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
In his third season at the label, Rodolfo Paglialunga has reworked the classic Jil Sander principles. Blazers are slashed, a coat deconstructed to embody an overlaying dress with the signature shirt cut and twisted into a new contemporary idea.
There is the odd flash of color, an asymmetric neckline and a vacant shoulder strap, with a buckle motif cropping up above the footwear and unexpectedly on silk dresses at the end of the show. The collection is undoubtedly minimalistic, as all Jil Sander should be.
Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a construction site as the backdrop, an actual car wash that sprayed bubbles and a road-runway, no prizes for guessing the whacky theme of the current season with Jeremy Scott, “carwash couture”.
Models were walking puns in safety-cone colors and equally outlandish roadwork themed accessories. In referencing a Chanel skirt suit in neon safety tape, the collection proved to be undeniably smart thinking… And as the show went on the looks got bigger. One was literally a ball of feathers with a model somewhere beneath (this being the “carwash” part).
The only cautionary part to this tale however is the rampage of Scott-fans that will ensue when this collection hits the shops… It seems the hard-hats are necessary after all.
N°21 Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With this collection, Alessandro Dell’Acqua claims inspiration from 1920s Italian photographer/actress Tina Modotti and Corinne Day, a.k.a. the photographer responsible for some of the most iconic photos of the nineties.
An eighty-year gap means that the current N°21 line sees an avid mix of glamour and grunge. Models wearing jeweled headbands and ruffled chiffon are also wearing plain vests or t-shirts. Feathered slippers are worn over pulled-up socks. Florals, lace and python leather appear amongst deconstructed garments, shirts and dungarees… Dell’Acqua has created a clever mix of old and new and masculine and feminine with the current line of N°21.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Military-style coats with regimental studs, ribbon cording that reminds you of army uniforms and intricate lace made in the UK – the distinctively British fashion brand lives up to its namesake.
Throw in a classic trenchcoat and a personalized Cara Delevingne backpack and you couldn’t get “more” Burberry, though the clunky, chainlink sandals teamed with flowing slips and maxi dresses scream urban grunge.
Mix this with a range of sophisticated, heavy coats and you see Christopher Bailey’s move away from the idea of season-specific clothes with this collection. Making the show even more memorable, Bailey had Alison Moyet provide the soundtrack with the backing of a 32-piece orchesrtra.
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
With bold prints, latex and an unflinching red, black and white palette, it was go hard or go home for Gareth Pugh’s latest collection. Diverting away from last year’s ritualistic themes this season was all about flamboyance.
Masked models with choppy wigs wore plunging V-neck cuts and asymmetric shapes. Adorning his clothes with coins, this eccentric motif reappeared throughout the show and reminded onlookers that sometimes, you just have to go all out. At his LFW debut, this show has proven to be iconic for the designer.
“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”
The Grand Palais was constructed in preparation for Paris’ spectacular Universal Exhibition in 1900. Around 48 millions visitors swarmed to the event, whilst George Vuitton created one of the most iconic attractions as part of his role in organizing the entire section concerning “Travel & Leather goods”. A majestic merry-go-round formed the platform for an array of pioneering and elegant Louis Vuitton luggage and bags.
As a celebration of over a century of Louis Vuitton, the Grand Palais will now host “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”. Retracing the label back to its 1854 origins, the collection consists of a remarkable overview of Louis Vuitton’s journey, paying homage to both it’s founders and current creators. Curator Olivier Saillard delved into the archives of the fashion brand to deliver “a fresh vision of our past, present and future”, according to Louis Vuitton’s CEO, Michael Burke.
The “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton” exhibition will run at the Grand Palais from December 4, 2015 until February 21, 2016.
Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Apparently first inspired by a girl wearing her boyfriend’s shirt, Andreas Melbostad has taken this idea and ran with it. Perhaps too far, as at times this collection can seem a little repetitive.
With hints of sportswear mixed into the cuts and footwear, Melbostad has created an urban line with that characteristically Diesel Black Gold biker effect...
Think oversized leather dungarees, embellished leather jackets and patchwork jeans. This is all realized in a mainly monochrome palette with the emergence of a beautiful deep blue towards the end of the show.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Art-Lovers Assemble: Berlin Art Week 2015 is Upon Us
2015 sees Berlin Art Week run again for the fourth time with the help of main sponsor, Deutsche Bank. Over 6 days the city will host a diverse range of exciting Contemporary Art events. The joint project STADT/BILD (Image of a City) features across several galleries, whilst there is also the art fair Positions Berlin and a number of awards including the Preis der Nationalgalerie 2015.
To mark the occasion, all over the city there will be striking exhibitions opening, including collections from the likes of Cindy Sherman, Paul McCarthy and Bernard Frize. This year, for the first time, Berlin Art Week will also offer a number of thought-provoking panel discussions of Talking Galleries/Berlin.
According to Tim Renner, Senate Chancellery – Cultural Affairs, “Berlin Art Week reflects the city’s great variety as an art centre. Top-notch excellence and underground meet at eye level”. With so much going on, Berlin Art Week will surely be the focus of the art world for the next week.
Berlin Art Week commences on September 15, 2015, and runs until September 20, 2015.
Madame Tussauds may as well give up now, as the candle replica of Karl Lagerfeld is quite brilliant. His iconic look of dark shades, signature white collar and black top button is perfectly captured in this amusing homeware delight… Perfect if you feel you need a little Karl in your life/cupboard.
Co-designed by John-Paul Welton, the scent itself is naturally inspired by all things Karl. Delicately spiced mandarin surrounds the top notes of cinnamon, whilst it’s center includes soft jasmine and orange blossom fused with cardamom, nutmeg and tobacco. Cedar and teak wood, musk and amber finish up at the base of the luxuriously elegant scent, ultimately embodying his very character.
“Candle Karl” has found itself on shelves in limited edition at the Maison and Objet Paris and is available to preorder in store at Karl Lagerfeld.
Unseen Photo Fair and Festival 2015
Founded by FOAM Fotographiemuseum, Platform A and Creative Agency Vandejong in 2012, Amsterdam’s Unseen International Photo Fair and Festival returns this year for the fourth time.
Celebrating emerging talent in the field of contemporary photography, the fair exhibits new artists alongside current work from already established photographers. Todd Hido, Jean-François Lepage and Inka & Niclas will be amongst the artists featuring around the old gasworks location, Westergasfabriek, whilst Peter Puklus provides the official artwork for this year’s campaign as part of his current project “The Epic Love Story of a Warrior”.
With the opportunity to engage and contribute your own artistic thoughts and expression through a number of debates and lectures throughout the 3-day fair, the international event brings together a wealth of photography enthusiasts and professionals. This year’s edition includes 54 galleries, the Unseen Book market along with the presentation of two awards; the Unseen Dummy Award and the ING | Unseen Talent Award.
The Unseen Photo Fair runs in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek between September 18 and 20, 2015. The Festival, which is accessible with an Unseen ticket, continues until September 27, 2015.
Amsterdam’s Tribal Art Fair (TAF) Runs for 13th Year
Keeping a family tradition alive is TAF organizer and owner of Amsterdam’s infamous Galerie Lemaire, Finette Lemaire. The gallery is one of the oldest tribal art galleries in the world and was founded around 90 years ago by M.L.J Lemaire. The popular TAF collection boasts an impressive range of textiles, sculptures, masks, jewelry and utensils from all over Africa, Oceania, America and Asia. Twenty national and international galleries will be exhibiting these items in the fair, many of which have never been previously released to the public…Whether you are a collector, an expert or simply a passer by, they are worth checking out. An expert committee will also be judging the diverse collection, examining the authenticity of each item.
The Tribal Art Fair (TAF) 2015 is running in central Amsterdam’s “De Duif” church from October 30, until November 1, 2015.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Wish us Luck! LeadAwards Announce ZOO Magazine as a Contender TWICE for Upcoming 2015 Medal
Hailed as Europe’s’ most significant photography awards, LeadAwards have announced ZOO Magazine as being nominated twice for the prestigious award. Each nomination will feature in the prestigious LeadAwards exhibition at the “Haus der Photography”, which is known to host around 40,000 visitors.
Miron Zownir presents one nomination with her Berlin Noir in ZOO Magazines’ Tenth Anniversary and Berlin Special, Issue 45. The series sees her depiction of Berlin in a post-war ruin, calling it “the Mecca of the Renegades and Penniless”. She shoots working-class citizens in their natural environment of Berlins’ then desolate, urban landscape.
Bryan Adams’ visual representation of “Helmut Berger”, taken from Issue 43’s interview, presents the other nominee for the award. Shooting a day in the life of Berger, Adams offers a striking collection bursting with Bergers’ larger than life personality.
The LeadAwards exhibition will run at the “Haus der Fotografie” in the Deichtorhallen, Hamburg, from September 19 until November 15, 2015.
The winners of the LeadAwards will be announced three weeks after the exhibitions’ opening. Winners will be awarded at the LeadAwards ceremony on October 15, 2015.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Nude Animal Cigar – Paul Kooiker
Commissioned by the Fotomuseum in The Hague, Dutch artist Paul Kooiker will present his distinctive photographs at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin. Kooiker’s ouvre is certainly not avoidant of the one-object focus. In fact, his ability to highlight objects, animals and the female form often evoke a lingering, curious gaze. Nude Animal Cigar is no different. Using sepia filtered hues, lit cigars, contorted torsos and animals are exhibited side by side. Unsettling perhaps - yet simultaneously captivating.
The photographs can at times seem like an invasion of privacy, a snapshot taken of those unaware. Kooiker is no stranger to this use of ambiguity, often utilizing provoking compositions in order to deconstruct and depersonalize female bodies. Perhaps part art social critique and part post-war cultural satire; Kooiker undeniably achieves a raise of the eyebrow.
The exhibition Nude Animal Cigar will run from June 13 until July 25, 2015 at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin (Linienstraße 23).
Read more about Nude Animal Cigar in ZOO Nr. 47 – out now.
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
Hotel Daniel Paris
Located in the middle of the Parisian heart, the Hotel Daniel is a decidedly quirky amalgamation of east and west. Furnished by the talented designer Tarfa Salam, the hotel inspires dreams of fantastical getaways. With elegance and charm in troves, the hotel's signature exotic style remains an alternative respite in the face of contemporary minimalism, where sumptuous décor ignite thoughts of far away lands in inner-city surroundings.
With a slight wander out the door, you will find yourself in a vibrant part of the city, the cultural veins of the city's heart sprouting in all directions in the form of art galleries, fashion houses, restaurants and nightclubs. Its own restauranteur, Chef Jérôme Bonnet, raised in Languedoc Roussillon, promises a sophisticated menu composed of traditional and self-made recipes. Barely aged past the year of seven, the Daniel is a connoisseur's choice.
Schwarzhogerzeil Opens On The Torstrasse
Owned by Nicole Hogerzeil, the Berlin located fashion retail store Schwarzhogerzeil has found a new home on the Torstrasse. Recreated in spacious surroundings, the space appropriately reflects the brands hand-picked by Hogerzeil – elegant, minimal and luxurious.
Conceived by the interior designer Sylvester Koziolek, the space has a decidedly Parisian charm ca 1940, yet refined with the features of the contemporary. Neon lighting and sturdy steel clothes racks come together in the creation of a certain ‘Schwarzhogerzeil atmosphere’ - an appreciation of quality and design. Labels to be found include Ball Pagès, Carven, Cedric Charlier, Isabel Marant, Marni, Dries van Note and Perret Schaad.
Opens the 20th of May.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
HUGO BOSS Asia Art Award 2015
Rockbound Art Museum (RAM) are partnering for the second edition of HUGO BOSS ASIA ART. Conceived and curated by the Rockbound Art Museum, the biannual award honors emerging contemporary Asian artists.
The award is handed to an emerging Asian artist, whose works, along with the participants, will be exhibited at RAM from 30 October 2015 until 3 January 2016. Won for the first time in 2013 by Kwan Sheung Chi, the artworks for the 2015 event will be new commissions made purposefully for the award event. Composed of chair Larys Frogier, Director of the Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai, advisory committee members Alexandra Munroe, Senior curator of Asian Art at the Guggenheim and curator and critic Hou Hanru among others, the HUGO BOSS awards is a gathering of Asian Art connoisseurs. Branching beyond the Chinese artists, this year’s awards have extended its selection to Southeast Asia.
Chinese contemporary art is experiencing a great deal of interest, with increasingly emerging awareness of its international presence. Intended to showcase the artists’ vision, the exhibition had no overarching theme. Following exhibitions in Europe such as the recent Focus Beijing at the Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam and the first major exhibition of Chinese contemporary art at the MET, Ink Art in 2014, Asian art is positioning itself strongly in the international art sphere.
The HUGO BOSS Arts program aims at encouraging an exchange between the fashion and arts fields. To discover more about the program, go to:
TERRANOVA 'Restless' out on KOMPAKT
Following their acclaimed 2012 album Hotel Amour, TERRANOVA presents their new magnum opus RESTLESS. Consisting of the electronic DJ/Producer duo Fetisch and &ME, the latest release is a groovy ten-track collection of cosmic melodies.
The duo’s sixth LP delivers solid sounds for house aficionados, featuring collaborators such as Brooklyn singer Mandel Turner, Denmark’s Lydmor, Bonhomme and longtime collaborator Cath Coffey. Having been produced in “liquid Terranova soundsystem” fashion the LP is inspired by interpersonal and interstellar travelling.
The ambient and sturdy bass-injected sounds take on a melancholic ruggedness with the help of solid vocals. The totality can be described as a ‘dirtier’, outlandish affair. With tracks appropriately named KEPLER 186F and UNDERVERSE, the amalgamation of funky tracks should be ready to rock your interstellar house.
The 12-inch vinyl will be available on Kompakt, along with CD and digital downloads on May 11th.
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
Tim Richmond's Last Best Hiding Place
The personal and contemporary odyssey through a landscape of filmic references – Tim Richmond’s Last Best Hiding Place reveals stories true or imagined, photographed over seven years throughout the American West.
A Montanan expression for “living under the radar”, the book’s title references the often haunting and melancholic atmosphere over a breadth of western states. Including images from the states of Wyoming, Montana, Utah and South Dakota, his subjects range from tattooed waitresses to the vast expanses of iconic railway.
Internationally acclaimed and widely published, the British Richmond’s prints have made their way into many a private collection. His departure towards a near ethnographic exploration of the American social and natural landscape encapsulates the cultural complexities and fascinations of stereotype.
The book will be available in a special edition of 100 copies, and a collector’s edition of 10, both signed and with a numbered certificate.
Book launch: Grimaldi Gavin, London, 23. June 2015
Available Europe: May / UK: June / USA: November 2015
The Artist is Absent: A Short Documentary on Martin Margiela
Directed by the award winning New York based writer and director Alison Chernick, the documentary reveals the impact of the Belgian creative genius Martin Margiela – the enigmatic mind behind several of the most consummately striking creations during the past two decades. Notoriously elusive, Margiela is known for his absence in the media, having never given an interview nor willingly posed for photographs.
As a reconstruction of his path to his dichotomous prominence, his presence becomes tangible through images and frames from his creative career, substantiated by personal interviews with some of fashion’s greatest names including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Suzy Menkes, who have contributed to the mosaic of his extraordinary life. The documentary exemplifies the essence of Martin Margiela’s deconstructivist revolution, and has been acknowledged by the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival in the Best Documentary Short category.
Starting April 20, a short version of the twelve-minute documentary will be shown exclusively on yoox.com, thecorner.com and shoescribe.com. The full documentary will be showcased online from April 27, after the announcement of the 2015 Tribeca Film Festival winners.
Objets Nomades by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton presented the latest project at Salone del Mobile in Milan this year. It completely revolves around travel, something we can always expect with this particular fashion house. Keeping in touch with Vuitton’s core, travel and innovation, they have asked several artists and designers to create objects that embrace the brand’s philosophy.
The collection exists out of perfectly crafted items that are not only useful, but extremely beautiful too. Christian Liaigre created a portable travel desk that can be folded into a suitcase. By combining leather, wood and aluminium, the desk becomes a strong and well-designed item. Atelier Oï on the other hand, chose to design a luxurious hammock, made out of leather strips.
Thompson Hotels can always be trusted to deliver you the finest quality during your stay. Wherever you go, you can count on a unique experience where you will still easily manage to feel at home. Right in the heart of London, the Belgraves combines a homey and warm atmosphere with beautiful design. Tara Bernerd designed 85 rooms, suites, a lounge bar, restaurant and lobby. Every piece has clearly been chosen carefully, to create an environment where you can sit back and just enjoy being there. It is a home away from home, where you can get inspired every day.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
Calvin Klein Jeans #mycalvins Denim Series
Calvin Klein Jeans brings us a new denim collection inspired by urban streetwear. The collection exists out of logo-driven garments that are comfortable and iconic. For the advertising campaign, the brand has asked fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan to shoot Kendall Jenner and model Simon Nessman in a way that is fresh and typically Calvin Klein.
The line will be sold exclusively at Calvin Klein boutiques and on the brand’s website.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Un Mondo Nuovo by Ennio Capasa
Swapping the stoic classicism of Milan for the pulsing pace of Tokyo in the early eighties must have confronted quite a culture shock to a young Ennio Capasa. After completing his studies in Southern Italy, Capasa, just twenty years old, uprooted to Tokyo to work under the ultimate avant-gardist, Yohji Yamamoto, for three years, before returning to Italy to establish his own inimitable label, CoSTUME NATIONAL.
The leap was a lucrative one, an experience every bit as surreal as the aesthetic he was augmenting. Fulfilling a promise he had made to Fumi Yamamoto, Yohji’s mother, Capasa has released a book, Japan: A New World (Un Mondo Nuovo), immortalising his time spent in Japan – a chapter of his life which cast the die for his instinctively polyhedral work.
As an exceptional extension to the book, from 11th December 2014, Un Mondo Nuovo will illustrate the tale with the launch of its dedicated internet platform and parallel Instagram and Tumblr channels. The global interactive diary serves as a sensory mood board, exposing an fresh facet of Capasa’s intellect and experience, brought to life by videos, sound and news unearthed from the unpublished archive of a master who has ceaselessly innovated for over 25 years.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
A brand’s advertising campaign has a very specific aim in mind –as a carefully crafted fusion of the brand’s core values and signature visual codes, this collection of references is meant to encapsulate and appeal to its archetypal customer.
As the age-old moniker attests, less is (usually) more. Adhering to long-standing traditions and stripping down to a the bare essentials may just be the key ingredients for a campaign in which the ideal customer is present at both ends of the process; they are simultaneously an inspiration and the receiver of the end product. In an age where endless attempts of innovation and out-of-the-box thinking are swarming our daily lives, a back to basics approach comes as a breath of fresh mountain air.
Enter Woolrich’s latest campaign – UTAH: a campaign that focuses and is built around characters residing in Eden, Utah. Located north of Salt Lake City and nestled in a lush valley between Snowbasin and Powder Mountain, Eden seems to exert an irresistible force that pulls lovers of the great outdoors towards it effortlessly, inviting them to partake in the vast array of activities it offers.
The campaign aims to embody the effortless equilibrium that characterises the daily lives of Eden’s residents who are all infatuated with the great outdoors in ways totally personal to each and every one of them. The importance of people and space, the balance between work and home life, the melding of style and exploration all became focal points. For Woolrich, this is about much more than stopping and smelling the roses, it’s about pausing on a long walk to hear stream, feeling the wind on your skin, watching the trees grow and basking in vibrant sunsets. Simply put, this is a celebration of nature’s simultaneously calm and invigorating energy and the endless possibilities it opens up to anyone eager to listen.
Woolrich has been at the forefront of outdoor lifestyle innovation for more than 180 years but its roots can be traced back to tradition and the oldest, continuously operating woollen mill in the US. The Woolrich Mill provided wool blankets to civil war soldiers and continues to produce them to this day. Since then, the brand has been consistent in delivering outdoors-oriented products since the 70s when people began to engage with nature in new and exciting ways. Men and women took their free time to explore natures splendour in a more recreational setting with backpacking, camping, mountaineering and cycling being just a few of their preferred activities.
From simple wool socks to its famous cold-busting parkas, the brand’s products embrace and highlight the authenticity of the outdoor lifestyle. Functionality, comfort and durability are key characteristics of Woolrich’s offerings for both men and women that are further elevated by quality materials such as wool, cotton and down. Completely in-tune with the needs of its customers, the outdoor brand now incorporates technical performance fibres like nylon and polyester in all its garments.
For Woolrich, there’s a simple constant: as long as there are people keen to venture into the wild, it will help them do so in comfort and style.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2017
The magic sets of Chanel Ready-to-Wear shows are always expected with anticipation and this season Karl Lagerfeld confirmed once again to be a visionary. A giant 35-meters-high rocket ship was waiting for us at the centre of the Grand Palais, envisioning the recent NASA news of potentially earth-size and consequentially habitable-zone planets.
It does not surprise that the humongous double C rocket was designed to lift off for more than 10 meters in the finale, leaving us completely stunned in smoke and pyrotechnic lights with Elton John’s Rocket Man in the background, Lagerfeld playfully used a whole vocabulary of space references: metallic matelassé stoles in silver and pink as space blankets, knitted headbands lifting the hair into a voluminous round cloud hinting to the space suit helmet, heavenly beaded black evening dresses to match the stardust castellated sky.
The classic Chanel skirt suits is also reinvented with matching shorts and completed with sequined tights and half gloves. It’s a fantasy as out of the best interstellar tale, and we hypnotically want to be part of it. Sparkling signature tweed in metallic silver, white electric blue and Karl’s favourite powder pink, together with the most glittery lunar boots would provide the perfect mise for our final space mission to escape this tired Mother Earth.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2017
“How enduring, how we need durability / The sky before sunrise is soaked with light / Rosy colour tints buildings, bridges, and the Seine” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose Nobel Prize Czes?aw Mi?osz as backdrop for her collection. More than an homage to her ancestors, it’s the sense of surprise and anticipation every non-Parisian feels when experiencing this city that Vanhee-Cybulski aimed to hint. It’s that wandering around as in a sort of situationist walk, not sure what will resurface from its powerful heritage. The expectation and the excitement.
Hermés Fall/Winter 2017 is all that. Vanhee-Cybulski’s wish to build Hermés identity as timeless but playful, a dialogue between the contemporary fresh attitude with that effortless spirit expressed since her first collection at the French house, was clear from the start. The collection felt polyhedric and at a closer look it revealed all its beautiful craftsmanship.
A beautifully timeless wool long cape in midnight blue lined in a rosy dusty brick tone and paired with a sporty ribbed sweater and tights. A sweeping floor leather coat in pale powder pink. Classic cut pants and laced-up thigh-high boots as borrowed from man’s wardrobe. Relaxed turtleneck knits matched with statement patchwork leather outwear with shearling trim. But also 70s vibes with scarf dresses in mousseline. Vanhee-Cybulski is revising the codes of haute modern dressing for this equestrian-routed French maison.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Imagine a tribe of legendary models from the 90s, with their ageless beauty, power walk and barely-there makeup. Imagine them now walking for the most loved and respected fashion designer of our time for his 100th show.
Dries van Noten surprised everyone when the show started: all the models who walked for him, from the very beginning, were all present: Amber Valletta, Caroline de Maigret, Malgosia Bela, Kirsten Owen, Trish Goff, Kim Noorda, Guinevere Van Seenus and legendary Kristina de Coninck opening the show. Together with the more recent favourites. It was an overwhelming flow of emotions for whomever has followed and worked with this acclaimed Belgian designer since 1993.
The collection was a parade of all the prints, the cuts, the colours from past collections, the story of Dries van Noten in toto. It was an incredible archive research, as some of the print designs didn’t exist anymore. The strong sentiment of timeless style and ageless beauty was pervasive, look after look. The oversized coat, the relaxed long dresses, the denim, velvet, and beautiful fur stoles. The mix-matched colours with a lemon yellow splashing the entire collection. It was a celebration of joy, of positivity, of the essence of femininity itself.
The sound of a crowded street, the cars, the people, a dog barking accompanied the vastitude of a collection of music and movies extracts played: from Jun Miyake’s Lilies of The Valley - the musician who closely worked together with Pina Bausch, one of Dries Van Noten's dearest muses – to the late David Bowie singing Heroes in the a cappella finale. “…you, you can be mean. And I , I’ll drink all the time. Because we are lovers. That is a fact”
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Make Love Not Walls
Through photographic material and a series of global actions, Diesels breaks down all barriers in communication with its #makelovenotwalls movement and tears down the mental and physical walls that separate us. In a time where hate, walls and fear seem to prevail, the brand urges us all to unite for the greater good.
“At Diesel we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the worlds to know that. Love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve” explains Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
For this campaign, Formichetti collaborates with legendary artist and photographer David LaChapelle using the Wall as a symbol of separation and breaking it down to create strong stories through a simple yet powerful narrative: walls are built and the heart-shaped Diesel love tank tears them down. As a symbol of separation is reinterpreted into a symbol of unison and flowers fills the space, a celebration of freedom and love is born. Diesel is known for pushing the boundaries creatively.
From its 1995 LaChapelle campaign with two kissing sailors, to this year's anti-wall ads, it encourages us to let fear aside and focus on what brings us all together rather than what divides us. If You've got walls, Diesel's got wrecking balls!
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
Paul Smith Menswear Fall/Winter 2017
Paul Smith is one of the few brands that gives you the feeling of security, of home and the certainty of effortless style.
With its timeless tailoring, the classic yet fun twistS in textiles and cuts, for his Fall/Winter 2017 Sir Paul Smith presented Menswear and Womenswear together. It was a storm of several declinations of what it could be Paul Smith now, and how any person, especially young, could sport it. Lush checked classic English fabrics, for men and women, silk dresses both in solid colours and printed with hundreds of feathers as taken from a XIX century treatise on naturalia.
Paul Smith with his masterly style showed us how we can wear a shearling short jacket over a suit. Or how a woman can sport a deep blue velvet suit and look so sexy. Coral, blue, green, khaki, grey: a colourful palette true to the brand’s signature identity. We particularly loved the relaxed blazer suits – womens’ were long, below the hips - and the coats over them, for him and her, a full dive into that Smith heritage of effortless elegance.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
NEW TENDENCY x Meiré und Meiré
New Tendency showed its 2017 product innovations at the Meiré und Meiré Factory.
The Bauhaus tradition has influenced the development process of everyday contemporary objects for New Tendency. Their furnishings serve to compose an ideal setting for modern working environments. With the emergence of co-working spaces, New Tendency have picked up on the need of flexible and functional configurations and strive to inspire those who are surrounded by their creations in their daily lives and their professional environments.
Showcasing their work in one of the leading creative agencies in Germany was therefore a natural progression.
Among other objects, New Tendency presented its December Edition at the Meiré und Meiré factory, a line that was the result of a fruitful collaboration with the agency, furthering their devotion to creative partnerships. The Artist's Edition of the lamp served as the inspirational springboard for the creation of New Tendency's premium line, Black Label that will soon be expanded to include more exclusive pieces with clear geometrical components.
Raw structures, industrial materials and natural elements formed the perfect hybrid framework for New Tendency's minimalist yet progressive designs. The presentation at the Meiré und Meiré factory didn't treat New Tendency's furnishings as conventional exhibits; they were instead integrated in the agency's daily goings-on serving as both a working space and a meeting point.
For New Tendency's exhibition at the Meiré und Meiré Factory, Mike Meire grouped the December edition pieces with side tables from the META line to create an island in the middle of the space. The installation was staged on raw concrete and stone slabs between dry plants, paint buckets and cardboard boxes. Fluorescent lights floated above it, different colours and textures of plastic foil sheets hanging over the top. The industrial ensemble was characterised by deliberately rudimentary fragmented elements that served as a beautiful contrast to the high-end claim of the products on display.
In the age of digitalisation, where products are becoming increasingly perfect Mike Meiré felt the need to infuse the products with textural and tactile elements proposing 'Brutalism x Redefining Nature' and paying tribute to Le Corbusier's New Brutalism.
Plein Sport Fall/Winter 2017
Sport and fitness are the latest addiction of modern society and that's a fact. It's not all about keeping fit anymore, it's a lifestyle. Designers have also caught the athleisure bug and among them is Phillip Plein who delivered a Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to sportswear during this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On a runway made over to resemble a racetrack, models, boxers and workout fanatics presented the first ever Plein Sport line. The collection features sweatshirts, puffer gilets and bombers, among many other fitness apparel favourites, fusing cutting-edge technology with luxurious materials.
Innovation is Philipp Plein's mantra and a key word for his collection that also offered sleeve pockets for iPhones and pioneered lightweight footwear and anti-sweat fabrics.
BILLIONAIRE Fall/Winter 2017: Texas under spotlights
Once upon a time, soap opera characters served as primary sources of style inspiration and this season Billionnaire by Philipp Plein travelled back in time to pick up the trend. Remember Dallas?
Set in Texas, the show reached cult phenomenon status and was Philipp Plein's moodboard for Fall/Winter 2017. The Billionnaire man is a wealthy and stylish globetrotter: skiing in Aspen and gambling in Monte Carlo. The collection reflects the attitude of a character that isn't shy about showing off his personality.
Snakeskin jackets, chinchilla bombers and full-length overcoats feature alongside astrakhan and crocodile skins as the ultimate statements of elegance whether on the slopes or in the city. Trousers are high-waisted and denim takes centre stage in trousers and double-breasted jackets.
From knitwear to eveningwear the attention to detail is meticulous, fully conveying Plein's references: classic Texan hat included!
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
FENDI Spring/Summer 2017: it it girls in a pink pink world
Sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid are undoubtedly a winning model duo in this day and age. For Fendi's Spring/Summer 2017 campaign the Hadid siblings join forces with Italian model Vittoria Ceretti to bring the brand's latest collection to life.
Set in a Parisian apartment, Karl Lagerfeld created a pastel-coloured world with floral wallpapers, infusing a fresh, young campaign with a delicate touch. Bella, Gigi and Vittoria reflect the brand's proposed shabby chic aesthetic while paying homage to Fendi's DNA in an ultra feminine way.
Fendi's Peeakaboo, Dotcom and Strap You bags are given candy-coloured makeovers, further enhancing their status as must-have accessories for the summer season. Fun fur details transform these into the perfect companions for these contemporary Marie Antoinettes.
The intimate, romantic and magical atmosphere created is made current with the addition of an edgy, sporty twist. Classic, yet current and so very Fendi.
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture moment has come
Schiaparelli Maison, Chanel's historical rival is definitely back on the scene after a long hiatus. This January marks a milestone for the celebrated maison as the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture decided to enlist Schiaparelli among the 15 fashion haute couture brands existing in the world.
Ravaged by the aftermath of the war, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her iconic Paris "Schiap Shop" in 1954, the very same year that saw the release of her autobiography "Shocking Life". It was only three years ago that Italian businessman Diego Della Valle decided to revive Schiaparelli, believing in the power of its indomitable style and unparalleled innovative techniques.
Alongside stores of long-established brands in the field such as Chanel, Givenchy and Dior to name a few, Elsa's shop in Paris' Place Vendome is opening its doors again to pick up where it left of, starting a new chapter in haute couture history.
LOUIS VUITTON CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN BERLIN
France and Germany join in for the celebration of 30 years of Louis Vuitton, the brand synonymous in everyone's mind and many hearts with élégance française.
Louis Vuitton celebrated its birthday with the opening of its latest concept store in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Celebrities and influencers from the world of fashion were present to mark the joyous occasion. A combination of craftsmanship, savoir-faire, continuous innovation and heritage - all keywords for the long established brand as well as the city that played host to its celebrations.
Berlin incomparably contemporary dynamism and Parisian haute couture give birth to 'amour toujours'.
The world through Henk Schiffmacher’s “camereyes”
When Texas, Henk Schffmacher's daughter discovered her father's old 35mm negatives in a dusty drawer, she knew they had to be exposed for the world to see.
Dutch tattoo artist, Henk Schiffmacher has become known for his energetic and observational photographic work that is now being collected and exhibited for the first time ever. Highlighting the best and worst facets of modern society, this eclectic ensemble of pictures is a real representation of the world we live in through Schiffmacher's camera.
Taken between 1970 and 1985 these pictures give us a raw insight into the world of youths, bikers and tattoo fetishists from all around the globe – from Las Vegas, L.A., Amsterdam, and Tokyo to Mumbai, Manila, San Francisco and Kuala Lumpur.
This makes for an interesting juxtaposition: a wild mix of cultures, nationalities and excess against the backdrop of vintage cityscapes and timeless scenarios. Schiffmacher's photography offers a unique and brilliant view of the world as it was four decades ago.
Pure, direct and unprecedented just like photography should be.
KENZO X EASTPAK…and CHARITY
Once again the iconic Padded Pak’r® backpack by Eastpak will serve as the “carte blanche” given to a selection of the world’s most influential designers to create a unique work of art.
When it comes to creativity and eccentricity, Kenzo, one of the brands participating in Eastpak’s Artist Studio competition along with Giambattista Valli and Vêtements, never disappoints giving birth to a “never-seen-before” piece. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s prints trimmed with a tiger claw key holder and a graphic Kenzo towel and hat, were assembled in a collage that not only twins Eastpak and Kenzo, but fashion and charity too.
The collection, comprised of one-off creations from each designer will drop on the 1st of December, World AIDS day. And for a good cause too: all proceeds go to the Designers Against AIDS organization to raise awareness, even among fashion victims, for HIV/AIDS.
Dior Homme presents the Black Carpet collection
Dior Homme launches today its Black Carpet menswear collection: a capsule of evening ready-to-wear pieces designed by the creative mind of Kris Van Assche.
Spring 2017 will see a perfect merge between the designer’s untamed-energetic style and Dior’s traditional codes. The atelier’s meticulous craftsmanship and attention to details will fuse creating rebellious, unexpected pieces from Dior’s signature slim-cut suits.
Prince of Wales or Houndstooth check will be interrupted by paint splashes woven into jacquard, velvet flocking and satin scars to give a complete new taste to fine wool tuxedos and t-shirts.
With innovative and unconventional techniques, Black Carpet, pairs the attitude of the runway with house’s know-how in order to push classical precision in to more extreme interpretations.
Hype moment: Supreme X The North Face
Supreme confirms its status as a hugely popular street wear apparel brand with the drop of Supreme's ever popular collaboration: Supreme x The North Face.
For the past ten years Supreme has been dubbed as 'the most hyped street wear pieces of all time' – and rightly so as the latest collection was sold out online in just under ten seconds.
Everything is about leafy camo, hi-vis orange, technically proficient and high performance pieces that create a balanced mix between style, quality and authenticity. The collection is made of cozy essentials for fall obtained by bold re-workings of TNF iconic garments in the perfect countercultural sprit of Supreme.
Representing the embodiment of the downtown culture, Supreme's rebellious New York skaters have a bomb in their hands that has definitely set off. Chapeau!
Palazzo Versace opens in Dubai
Italian luxury made a step forward with the grand opening of Palazzo Versace Hotel & Resort in the heart of Dubai Cultural Village, introducing the Milanese brand’s experience to the emirates.
After sixteen years, Versace has decided to give birth to its second resort property celebrating it with a grand opening event on November that was hosted by Donatella Versace herself. Donatella has exclusively designed the furniture and interiors for all 215 rooms, creating the ultimate luxury experience in the brand’s history.
Located on the foreshore of the Dubai Creek, this five-star property evokes the architecture of a 16th century Italian palace with traces of Arabian taste, featuring wonderful suites furnished with Versace Home Collection products, first-class spa and restaurants combining brand’s extravagant taste with the highest quality of service.
Straight from the Parisian runways, models like Alessandra Ambrosio, Helena Christensen and Natasha Poly among with Versace’s couturiers, personally presented their couture collection to the Emirates clientele. For this exclusive occasion, a portion of the orders has been donated from the brand to the Dubai Cares Organization to help improving primary education for children in developing countries.
Versace’s founder Donatella found herself amazed by the final result defining Palazzo Versace as a “truly luxury destination second to none in the world”.
Aitor Throup appointed Executive Creative Director for G-Star Raw
Following three successful years as creative consultant to the brand, G-Star Raw announces Aitor Throup as its Executive Creative Director. Since 2013 the Argentinian-born British designer has worked closely with the brand developing new approaches to 3D denim design and was also involved in the development and concept of the denim superstar's flagship store in London's Oxford Street. Throup directed the recent 'What is RAW?' global advertising campaign and launched RAW Research, his first collection for G-Star during Paris Men's Fashion Week. The transition from consultant to Creative Director was an organic one for both the brand and artist who shares G-Star Raw's design ethos that holds innovation as one of its core values.
Emotions of the Athletic Body
Giorgio Armani may not be antagonising the wave of riotous change this season, but unruliness has never been his game. Armani has remained a respectable pillar of Italian fashion for its faithfulness to a fundamental aesthetic – a disciplined dress code which only surpasses itself with the passing of the seasons, embracing innovation and so setting the bar higher. On cue, SS17 sculpted an artful offering of the classic chrome color palette, burnished silver silks bleeding into the Persian blues of painterly prints. Fabrics fell with the weight of a feather, film-fine cardigans cutting across bodies to drape over gathered city shorts. Technicality tended to fluid fabrics, filing them with a terse edge, as laser cutting boned a skeletal lattice of ankle boots, and light trails traced satin shell tops as digi-prints. Florals blotted and blurred across bunched ruffled tea dresses and watery kimonos whose hems frothed a foam of macramé tassles. Tailoring, meanwhile, punctured blunt shapes in thermos-sealed neoprene, cropped jackets uncompromisingly ageless despite their advanced engineering. It’s no coincidence that Armani’s dexterity under discipline spawns an esteem for the mastery of sport. Staging at Milan’s Armani/Silos gallery, the designer has curated a photographic display depicting the admirable art of athletics. With shots dating from 1985 to the present day, images exude an enduring power and permanence printed onto imposing slabs of concrete, and feature the world’s most legendary athletes wearing Armani, sourced from campaigns, magazines and a previously unseen archive.
Emotions of the Athletic Body runs at Armani/Silos until November 27th 2016.
Ingrid Baars – Bloom! exhibition
Dutch visual artist Ingrid Baars has opened her third solo exhibition “Bloom!” at the Rademakers Gallery in Amsterdam. The exhibition represents her on going project “L’Afrique!”, influenced by the diversity in African culture. Through Baars’ primary photoshoot and photo manipulation techniques, objects of African culture heritage, African woman and dress are visualized in a surreal yet beautifully executed manner across the gallery.
“Bloom!” will be on display until November 20th 2016.
Emporio Armani Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
In the occasion of the store re-opening in Boulevard St-Germain, Giorgio Armani surprised everyone staging Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2017 show in Paris. Entering the venue in Bercy arena we all felt that disarming disorientation. Where are we? Is this really the French capital or we have been teleported in Armani HQ in Milan? Giorgio Armani built a set evoking his very own Tadao Ando’s theatre and its striking minimalism. The squared mirrored catwalk, the descending seating. The pitch black and luminous white. As almost as whispering that Armani empire, style and philosophy can raise anywhere. The collection was eclectic. If the first squad - including some male models - arrived in composed functional looks in the tones of desaturated blue and grey, an extreme variation of styles and colours took the lead. Soft silk satin pyjamas, unstructured blazers with matching trousers forming that perfect contemporary power suit. Liquid fabrics ruling tailored pieces. As the troop continued marching in we saw coral red hues, faded green, white, cobalt blue, purple. And the unexpected South Asian elephant prints, becoming the running theme through part of the collection: at the hems of pants or adorning the neckline of the summery long dresses. There was a multitude of accessories, from flats-shoes to heels of all shapes, small bags worn at the waist or crossbody, statement earrings. All meticulously styled. Emporio Armani for Spring 2017 displayed that urban language, typical of the label, but also the essence of its young broad audience in all the facets.
Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
With this last fashion week ruled by new creative directors stepping in at the helm of historical French fashion houses, it goes without saying that the debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior — after almost a decade at the rein of Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli — would have been waited with extreme anticipation.
The new Dior woman for Spring Summer 2017 is not afraid of showing her weaknesses, her romantic side - and why not — her unpredictable mood. Ruled by the moon. “La lune” (the moon) on a chunky grey wool sweater and the other tarots cards engraved on squared evening clutches, or intrinsically embroidered on evening gowns. They are all symbols of this new Dior, but also homage to the superstitious Christian Dior himself. The French master was obsessed with astrology and other myths of the occult, and certainly this collection wanted to be inspired by his legacy more in spirit than in form.
We saw that vocabulary that was once the signature of Chiuri and Piccioli for Valentino: transparency made of dreamlike sheer tulle in powder ivory, white, black, and a deep red, together with polka dots and precisely constructed bustiers. Underneath, the minimalist ironic men-like underwear marked with “Christian Dior, j’aDior” motto at the elastic waistband. It’s Maria Grazia’s Dior and no one else’s.
The slogan “We should all be feminists” on a t-shirt sounded more of a provocation than an admonition. This is not a woman who in the process of advocating gender equality renounce to womanhood in order to be a surrogate resemblance of her male counterpart – on the contrary she is embracing her femininity where feminism is the vehicle for empowering and liberation.
Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS
Available early 2017 and announced during the CDG Spring 2017 runway show, designer Reo Kawakubo joins forces with Nike to create the Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS. The VaporMax Air, which is described as “a powerful visual appearance of walking on air” consists of a thin consistency providing cushioning. Redesigned to fit Kawakubo’s contemporary aesthetic, the new model is a slip-on alternative of the VaporMax.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Muddy hues made their mark at Bottega Veneta but the overall effect was anything but beige. Rather, it primed a canvas of classics from which showpieces would pop. And there was good reason to call upon the party clothes; 2016 marks a special year for the brand, not only the 50th anniversary of the fashion house, but also its 15th year under the Creative Direction of Tomas Maier. In spirit of occasion, Maier’s forward-thinking retrospective featured more than a few familiar faces, from Eva Herzigova and Lauren Hutton to Bella and Gigi Hadid. As a performance piece it pleased crowds, but as a practice of the practicality of Bottega Veneta, it blew minds – it confirmed that which we had always supposed but never truly knew: Bottega makes clothes we can all wear – nuanced, transitional clothes which seem to shapeshift according to the spirit of the woman who wears them. SS17 sculpted supple shells of coffee-colored crocodile, swinging to calves as mackintosh coats or cropped as curt little bikers. Separates clung to the torso in flimsy wools, button-up blouses making a second skin of macramé as A-line skirts sheathed legs in shaggy sable lace. Color was rationed, but when it bled through the cracks, it blazed. Lurid contrasts courted hot pink yarns against waxy red leather skirts, cinched like paper bags at the waist, while ditsy florals found their way onto faded reams of lemon yellow cotton, bound and belted around the body as refreshingly modest wrap dresses. This tack’s been on the table for fifty years, but it’s a sensibility that hasn’t gone stale. Here’s to another half century…
Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The ecstatic, almost suffocating, atmosphere of pure beauty. Dries Van Noten once again staged a show of intricate play of contrasts. Fragments of beautiful Japanese flowers prints collages almost like randomly splashed on white and neutral coloured garments were followed by Victorian-like beaded collars and mourning veils. A bright warm yellow together with deep black. As the models started to walk in, silently, with just the click clack of their heels in the background, the magic of daring, like only the Belgian designer can undoubtedly master, gradually unveiled: there were clean and raw linen looks followed by their counterparts in beautiful printed silk. Sporty shorts and tee in white matched with a black patents leather long coat. A long denim skirt paired with a bomber jacket in the most opulent silk. Embroidered black tulle together with a caramel sweatshirt.
Dries Van Noten created a collection were a complex sense of time and place played along with a fragile beauty. The fragility of fresh flowers that artist Makoto Azuma arranged in 23 beautiful ikebana sets, merged for 2 weeks in subzero water just before the show and forming beautiful ice sculptures that adorned the catwalk. As the show arrived to an end and the glittery ice blocks started to melt forming random water patches on the floor, we couldn’t be other than overwhelmed by the mesmerising sense of such a dramatic message: all beautiful things come to an end. But not certainly the magic of Dries Van Noten.
Moncler Boutique Macau Wynn Palace
The second Moncler boutique in Macau has opened at the Wynn Palace. The interior of the 130 mq store is developed by architectural firm Gilles&Boissier. Two large shopping windows invite the consumer in the Moncler sphere. Grey marble floors and white walls create a modern shopping space, which will sell Moncler Gamme Rouge Ready-to-Wear, Moncler and Moncler Grenoble as well as the accessories collection for men and women. The opening of the Wynn Palace boutique comes a year after the first franchise opened at the Galaxy Macau.
Adidas at the Olympics in Rio
Designed for the athletes currently in Rio for the Olympics and competing in September at the Paralympic games, Adidas has developed a variety of new applied science, coloured BOOST technology and designs in athletic shoes. The adizero MD is suitable for races between 800- and 1.500 meter, allowing for higher speeds on the curves of the running course through the special Pebax-and TPU sole. The adizero Avanti design is primarily designed for long distance runs from 1500m to 10000m. This is the first shoe to only have four instead of the usual five spikes, which makes the shoe lighter but still grants enough stability. The 360-Degree Printed Knit, as there’s no insole necessary, is one of the lightest shoes Adidas has ever developed, while the adizero adios is the fastest running shoe in the world at the moment, with German running-twins Anna and Lisa Hahner sporting them on their feet.
Aitor Throup's 10th anniversary
Artist, designer and creative director Aitor Throup celebrates 10 years in the fashion and design industry by unveiling a redesigned aitorthroup.com website, which features a complete insight of Throup’s creative archive from the last decade. The compilation of his work shows unseen projects as well as work from the early days of his career and current jobs, from design, film and photography to his work as creative director. The most recent New Object Research collection will be shown, as well as archived projects like the collaboration with Norwegian fashion photographer Sølve Sundsbø, among many others. The Royal College of Art alumni and his ‘A.T. Studio’ challenge traditional systems and propose authentic ideas and new ways of storytelling.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photography duo Santiago&Mauricio worked alongside Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti and stylist Davey Sutton for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign, translating fashion culture and creating a dialogue in a series of honest and humoristic images. As diesel celebrates difference and diversity, cast are a group of individuals with different cultures and personalities. “We worked with director/photographer duo Santiago & Mauricio to shoot beautiful ad impactful images where the product is celebrated with a twist on the traditional advertising images“, reveals Formnichetti.
Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign
Creative director Sarah Burton and photographer Jamie Hawkesworth came together to create the Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign, featuring in demand model Mica Arganaraz. The duo has a shared love for British nature and wildlife, which brought them to Shetland, a subarctic island northeast from Great Britain. Placed in the rocky Scottish landscape, Hawkesworth’s images portray a sense of young and surrealistic beauty and continue McQueen’s admiration for romantic, natural scenery.
Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
“The inspiration for the campaign was completely guided by our Paris show collection”, says Andreas Kronthaler of the Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign which features Ms. Westwood herself. Shot by Juergen Teller and styled by Sabina Schreder, the campaign portrays a spiritual look, cast with a fun and young group of boys and girls, styled in an "East meets West" theme. Kronthaler explains when envisioning the campaign, they were focused on finding a spiritual place to shoot and stumbled upon a middle-eastern rug, which gave them inspiration.
Viktor&Rolf Autumn/Winter 2016
Recycling is the main inspiration for Viktor&Rolf Couture Autumn/Winter 2016, as they look and use their own archive as starting point for their newest collection. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren use torn up fabrics and mix them to create a new abundant silhouette. The garments are embroidered with buttons, beats and crystals, the looks styled with top hats. Another influence for the collection is Dickens’ Vagabonds, quoting; “Those that belong nowhere, wandering from place to place, roaming the city.” The final sees the wanderers, roaming the runway.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2016
John Galliano has a much more personal understanding of Maison Margiela for its Artisanal Fall 2016, in which he experiments with a different take on haute couture. “A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality.” A satin orangza dress is draped around the models body, printed with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008) styled with a cycling top, arctic blue gloves and dark brown clogs, her headpiece resembling a string of seashells. Another model is dressed in an upside down orange coat, worn over a navy shift dressed, paired with rubber-soled thigh-high black ‘Tabi’ boots.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Jil Sander reveals the Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign starring Australian model Julia Nobis and up-and-coming model Jonas Gloër. Photographed by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, the shoot took place in Paris, city of couture fashion. Vanderperre portrays Jil Sander’s minimalist aesthetic beautifully in a series of striking images.
Fondation Louis Vuitton To Exhibit ICONS OF MODERN ART
ICONS OF MODERN ART – The Shchukin Collection will be exposed at the Fondation Louis Vuitton later this year, paying tribute to Russian art collection Sergei Shchukin. Moscow-born Shchukin was an industrialist before getting involved with Parisian art evolutions, like the impressionist, post-impressionist and modern movements, which resulted in becoming one of the most radical art collection of the 20th century. Thanks to contribution of the Hermitage Museum and Pushkin Museum, this exhibition will be able to showcase 130 art pieces from Shchukin’s archive, including works of Monet, Picasso and Van Gogh, along many more. The exhibition, generally curated by Anne Baldassari with help from Shckukin’s grandson André-Marc Delocque Fourcaud, has a culture programme encircling, focussing on dance and music and the artistic relationship between France and Russia commencing early last century, which is still relevant today.
The exhibition will run from October 22nd until February 20th 2017.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Peter Lindbergh - A Different Vision On Fashion Photography
Uma Thurman, Los Angeles, USA, 2011 Vogue Italia © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery)
An exhibition celebrating German photographer Peter Lindbergh’s inspiring work will open September 10th 2016 in the Kunsthal, Rotterdam. One of fashions most influential photographers with the infamous image of the 90s Supermodels, or The Big Six, on his repertoire, will make this exhibition one for the books. The gallery will have his material divided in nine different sections, including Couturiers, Dance and Icons. Lindbergh initiated bringing a narrative to fashion photography and includes a sense of realism, which in an age of excessive photo retouching changed the norms of beauty. The photographer is often referred to as the ‘Photographer of Truth’, as he rejects the concept of social status in his work. Lindbergh: ”This should be the responsibility of photographers today to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection.”
The exhibition will run until February 12th 2017.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
PFW: GIVENCHY SPRING 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 for Givenchy presents an urban, travel collection, blending precise tailoring with hints to signature street style elements. Riccardo Tisci has yet again achieved to create a line-up of attractive attire, with styling immaculately done by Katy England. Models are donned with gelled hair and what looks like ear stretchers. The colour palette shows camouflage colours, striped ensembles and prints including pyramid symbols and the Eye of Providence. Models Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid featured on the runway showing the brands women’s wear.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017
Francesco Ragazzi reveals he looks through the Palm Angels book and choses an image to get inspired, this time one of a skater reminding him of Jimi Hendrix. Ragazzi envisions today’s youth at modern music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella, meeting for their collective love for music and new icons. Palm Angels exhibits this new generation in its latest collection, which is filled with youthful, energetic pieces and gives off a athletic and college vibe.
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: TOD'S SRING 2017
The Tod’s Spring 2017 collection is shown in a presentation, rather than a runway show. The models are situated in what looks like a resembled living room, enlarged photographs as wallpaper hung as if looking at a Tod’s inspired moodboard. Aesthetic of the collection feels sophisticated and casual. With a minimal colour palette we see tailored pieces, fine suits and its leather jackets brings a sharp edge. The looks are finished with brogues, sneakers and loafers. Tod’s has recently collaborated with French Graphic designer Jean Paul Gaude for his exhibition in Milan’s Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanae called “So Far So Goude.”
MFW: GUCCI SPRING 2017
“We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.” T.S. Eliot
Alessandro Michele. Bravo. The Gucci Spring/Summer 2017 is as close someone can portray a dream as it gets. The collection portrays travelling, exploring the world, gaining knowledge and coming back to a different ‘home’. The soundtrack feels dreamlike, the runway floor is painted green with snake print, the collection a kaleidoscopic affair. The collection sees Donald Duck embroidered on fitted blazers and floral patterned suits, a merge of modernity and nostalgia.
MFW: MARNI SPRING 2017
Consuelo Castiglioni is often praised for her progressive and refined designs; Marni’s Menswear Spring 2017 is no different. The collection perfectly suits a quirky, businessman aesthetic, making for a show full of modern and dynamic designs. Rich red leathers are introduced in the form of trench coats, camel suits are included for the sophisticated Marni man, while the blue striped prints keep the collection young. Accessorized with both backpacks, briefcases and stylized sunglasses, Consuelo Castiglioni did good, Marni Spring 2017 is a winner.
MFW: ETRO SPRING 2017
Instead of the usual pout, models for the Etro Spring 2017 collection walk down the runway with a smile. And a dog, which instantly makes this show a success. Creative Director Kean Etro scouted the predominately non-professional models walking the runway himself and gave them the opportunity to decide for themselves what they’d like to wear. The collection feels fresh but casual, with loose-fitting tops and trousers along with tribal prints and dark hues.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016/17
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign channels the house’s new mood, direction and elegance with a balance of tradition and edge. Pal Zileri chose world-famous ballet dancer Sergei Polunin to front the images shot by photographer Maciek Kobielski on location in Williamsburg, NY.
The Ukraine-born Polunin fully expresses Pal Zileri’s current identity and message with his balance of dramatic flair, strict artistic rigor and unconventional spirit. The new campaign is thriving to exalt talent with an unexpected twist. Soaked by a strong lighting, a fresh-faced and intense Polunin strikes relaxed poses framed by steel grids, modern props and a tonal palette of grays and deep blue that set off a contemporary atmosphere with an industrial touch. His bold and tattooed attitude adds character to Pal Zileri’s key fall looks, a mix of tailored pieces, luxe sportswear and exclusive details.
Givenchy By Riccardo Tisci Spring 2017
The new Givenchy collection delves into three integrative styles. Introducing and exploring new phrase Skinhead Romantic, influenced by the 90s, the brand mixes pleated tulles and heavy boots. For the traditional Givenchy woman, the brand sticks to their signature style, including tied blouses and monochrome colours. In the urban, metropolitan women's lineup we see exploration of new volumes and silhouettes, blending couture and street style. Women's Denim has a small colour palette, limited to black, white and baby blue. Proposed is a new boyfriend's cut, as well as the brands' signature stars.
The menswear collection is based on the same styles. Men's denim suggests striped jersey layers and small gaps in its jeans and jackets, creating new textures. For the classic man, Riccardo Tisci kept his suits and jackets navy and black, with red accents. The urban side of the collection includes oversized parkas and nylon tracksuits looks. Bomber jackets, sweaters and coats are found in the Skinhead Romantic style, concluding the Givenchy Spring 2017 Pre-Collection. The photography for this campaign is executed by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert.
Prada Men's Special Displays
Prada announces the opening of three special displays in stores in France and Italy, just before its Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 collection is scheduled to show this Sunday. The first part of the display will be situated in the Florence store in Via Tornabuoni, which will be exhibited until the 26th of June. A series of exclusive images, shot by art director Willy Vanderperre shows backstage stills from the Prada Uomo and Donna Autumn/Winter 2016 collections, combined as the dis-dressed project.
The Milan store in Monte Napoleone will take its inspiration from the digital age. Placed throughout the store will be LED screens, presenting images of the dis-dressed project and “Chronicle”, a short film exploring the parallels between architectural interventions and the Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
Exhibited on the top floor of the Paris store in Faubourg Saint-Honoré will be a series of the Prada Uomo Autumn/Winter 2016 advertising campaign, with images featuring actor Eddie Redmayne, shot by photographer Craig McDean. This will be in store to view from the 22nd of June until the 8th of July.
Second time BFA Menswear Designer winner J.W.Anderson latest collection has drawn inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel Le Petit Prince, a philosophical story pointing out the abnormalities of adult life. Though J.W.Anderson mentions, this collection is ‘’not about being nostalgic, it’s about being childlike.’’ Swimming goggles, headpieces resembling crowns, extremely long sleeves and sweaters tied around the waist indicate to this childlike theme, but its a refreshing way of accenting the collection. ‘Petite’ trench coats, culottes and shoulder bags granted the compilation the androgynous view J.W.Anderson swears by, but military bombers and plaid shirts were also included, giving the collection a masculine touch.
Giorgio Armani Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Giorgio Armani reveals its Autumn/Winter 2016/17 campaign, shot by fashion photography duo Mert and Marcus (Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott). Both photographers have said they are heavily influenced by photographer Guy Bourdin, which shows in their latest work. Modelling for this shoot were models Maartje Verhoef, Heather Kemesky, Julian Schneyder, André Bona, Mathilde Brandi, and Andrey Zakharov, who were photographed in black and white, which the brand describes as giving it an atmosphere that is subtly introspective and suggests a sense of realism.
Helmut Newton exhibition at FOAM
Mark next Friday in your diaries, as you’ll be able to see and enjoy the wonderful work of legendary photographer Helmut Newton in FOAM. The German-Australian artist started working on his photography passion in the 1950s, but a career didn’t take off until 2 decades later when he started shooting for the French Vogue. As the 70s was a new age of female independence and freedom of sexual expression, Newton incorporated the independent woman in his work. He worked closely with designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and CHANEL’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who also strived towards a modern, empowered femme. The exhibition Helmut Newton – A Retrospective at the FOAM Photography Museum in Amsterdam will run from the 17th of June up until the 4th of September, an art-enthusiasts idea of a perfect summer.
Fifth Edition Unseen Photo Fair
The fifth edition of Unseen Photo Fair is coming to Amsterdam this September. Unseen Photo Fair will display never before seen artworks of new and established photographers, such as Isaac Julien, Anton Corbijn and Antoine d’Agata, in Westergasfabriek, Amsterdam. 53 galleries and more than 150 artists from across the globe will be exhibiting during the fair. As well as this, there's a on-site programme filled with debates, readings and various activities. A week before the fair, Unseen Festival will kick off for its second edition and is located in Spaarndammerbuurt. Unseen is proud to announce it's curators for their campaign this year as being art-duo Christto Sanz & Andrew Weir. While from completely different backgrounds [Puorto Rico & South Africa] their work compliments each other, they two both have a stylised and colourful approach to creating their art in which they question the identity of today's society. The Unseen Photo Festival will be running from 16th - 25th September, the Photo Fair from 23rd - 25th of September.
Peuterey Fall/Winter 16/17
Peuterey is a brand drawing on its stylish utilitarian heritage and sensing an epochal shift in the way real people react to it. It is an advocate for reality telling. Peuterey’s collection for Fall/Winter 2016-2017 focuses on personality and product. Piercing portraits and street shots are layered onto images of urban environments, suggesting an iconic melange that triggers the visual sensibility of the digital-savvy generation.
The campaign will debut in June with a maxi-billboard placed in Piazza della Repubblica, Florence. International brand ambassadors such as Blake Lively, Olivia Palermo, Jhoannes Huebl, Derek Blasberg, Sarah Jessica Parker, Amanda Seyfried, Aaron Paul , Felicity Jones, Tom Hanks, Leaf Greener, Jennifer Lopez and many more will further bring the message to a real audience. It will actually and factually hit the shop floor, both online and offline, with the collection distributed via top US department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and leading stores worldwide such as Tsum. The brand targets also on the creation of dedicated partnerships, such as the collaboration with Miroslava Duma/Buro247 on a special jacket.
The campaign is shot by renowned lensmen Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, art directed by Giovanni Bianco and featuring models Marjan Jonkman and Filip Hrivnak whose unconventional beauty is fine tuned by a cast of top innovators of all ages. The campaign has a honest tone that contextualizes clothing within the frame of real life.
Banky’s new exhibition in Rome
If you’re in Rome this summer you should definitely visit the Palazzo Cipolla Museum which launches one of the largest exhibitions of his work to date.
The non-profit exhibition War, Capitalism and Liberty kicked off on 24th May and it is running through to the 4thSeptember.
The exhibit, which sees the famous Kate Moss print take pride of place, spans the anonymous artist's entire career.
This exhibition includes around 120 original paintings, prints, unique sculptures, creations and rare pieces from private collections, many of which have never been seen publically before.
The exhibition examines war, consumerism and politics aiming to make you really think like Banksy . It promises to be a groundbreaking display of the different formats, techniques and topics tackled by him, demonstrating the sheer scale and scope of his work over the last 30 years.
The exhibition comes just a year after Banksy, opened the popular Dismaland in Weston-Super-Mare, the alternative seafront theme park that invited guests to experience attractions billed as "an escape from mindless escapism".
Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
Valentino Fall/Winter 2016
Even though there were eclectic patterns, bright colors and even a glossy, red coat in it, the latest Valentino Fall collection is still a soft one. There just was a certain tender vibe to it that let the models shine in a calm light, presenting a collection that lends a hand to those run over by the fast pace of see now-buy now fashion. Even though there were these drop-out pieces, the collection is still defined by pastel tones, earthy and soothing colors and feminine, romantic silhouettes. There are poufy ballet skirts cut up into layers, floating dresses that hug the body like a comforting friend, and big collared coats that are very in line with this season's trend, but also a shield from its hasting characteristics. On its beginning, the collection nevertheless voices some harsh tones, with black looks and loose outlines creating a mysterious atmosphere. Luckily, the calm tone keeps the lead for the rest of the collection. Face it, we all need some down-time from fashion's headspin once in a while. How good to know that Valentino is here for us.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016
When Hedi Slimane let loose his Fall menswear collection about a month ago, nobody knew what he had in store. Going back, we remember glittering cowboy vibes, 70s rockstar inspirations, tight pants and booties, presented in a gloomy setting at Los Angeles' Palladium. Back then, Slimane not only showcased menswear looks, but also “Part 1” of his womenswear collection, which featured similar vibes to the men's designs. Fast forward to now, again, nobody knew what the designer had in store for the womenswear sequel. Revealed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter designs distance themselves from the rocking hobo-vibes of L.A. and transfer the mood to the glittering scene of the 1980s. In an old-fashioned Parisian residence, Slimane presented glam-bam designs that overdo everything just as great as the 80s did. Shoulders are oversized to enormous measures, silhouettes are distorted by big bows creating asymmetry and an overall is reborn in an top-to-bottom sequin look. Additionally: an 80s woman was no catch without a belt, so Slimane adds the big-buckled waist slimmer to his range and matches it with pointy heels. Fashionistas and historians may discover references to the grand Mr. Saint Laurent himself, but it's Slimane's own demand for surprise that puts a frame on this collection. Maybe, next time, the 90s will be the centre of his inspiration. Until then, we'll dance the night away in these bedazzling designs. Are you ready?
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2016/17
The expression of “mix and match” usually recalls bright colors, eccentric patterns and wild fabric combinations. This might well be the case with many brands, but not with John Galliano.
For their latest Fall/Winter collection, the brand applied the “mix and match” theme, but with strict limitation to expression (one thing the Galliano name usually is not known for).
On the runway, viewers saw subtly stunning looks, created from a mixture of femininity and its counterpart, with dresses playing as big as a part as masculine shirts and blazers. It is the thought-out combination of pieces that gives this collection it's identity - it's the Galliano form of mix and match.
This season, Galliano is where the satin dress meets high-top sneakers, where the regalia-embellished jacket is teamed with see-through skirts, where Sporty Spice meets Jane Austen. Regarding the color palette, the search for bold and flashing tones will yield no results. The fabric selection is equally as toned-down and patterns are rather sprinkled than plattered. With John Galliano, it's a mixture - and it matches.
Looking for Marni: Eyewear Presentation
For its latest eyewear presentation, Italian label Marni stepped up its game. Their showcase “Looking For Marni” was not just a presentation, not just an exhibition or event: it was a theatrical demonstration, an intimate performance piece that highlights the famous links between art and fashion design. As Marni says, a brand is defined by its actions and not just the aesthetic it creates. Thus, the Italian house took its creative atmosphere to the stage and unveiled their showpiece at the Padiglione Visconti, a singular industrial space that is currently being used as a rehearsal atelier by the La Scala Theater. The theatrical spirit easily transferred itself onto Marni's presentation: a cast of dancers is presented with a variety of props, ranging from oversized tables and chairs to a raised stage – that is, if the performers are not dangling from the ceiling. The theater piece was conceived in collaboration with Susanna Beltrami and her dance company and has a duration of 90 minutes. Marni's aim is not solely to entertain, but also blend the lines between performer and spectator. Looking For Marni is both a theatrical and real-life experience. Poetic feelings ignite in between the performance and its viewers, bringing to life the incomparable, eclectic Marni spirit. Come to think of it, it's hard to think this presentation was only about eyewear, after all.
photos: D. Lovati
RIMOWA Bossa Nova
Most people would probably like to pack Alessandra Ambrosio into a suitcase and take her home with them. For now, those of you need to be satisfied with her advertising one. Ambrosio was revealed as the new face for German suitcase manufacturer RIMOWA’s. In the latest campaign, the Brazilian model poses with the brand’s new piece “Bossa Nova”. The name and choice of testimonial are not just coincidentally an allusion to Brazil: the travel accessory is actually manufactured there. For those seeking a little bit of Rio in their luggage, the Bossa Nova comes in a dark green with leather applications in green or beige, making it a style statement at the baggage claim. If only we all could step off a plane looking like Mrs. Ambrosio.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016
When in New York, the Marc Jacobs models took to the runway, all the unscrupulous fashion crowd was left with was surprise. Few hours later, fashion critics found themselves in frenetic ecstasy about the new Jacbos designs, and there are plenty reasons why. It is hard to put this collection into words, as it was eclectic and layered – in both literal and fashion sense. Jacobs created the big show, defined by the big silhouette. Strutting on knee-high, laced boots, the models sported coats, blazers and capes in voluptuous egg shapes to be paired with impressively embellished dresses and loose sweaters. The materials one can’t even begin to enlist, for there are so many to choose from. Leather, denim, fur, feathers – Marc Jacobs has it all. The selection of models, who all presented a 1920s hair style, in parts was another surprise. One look was showcased by no other than Lady Gaga, who blended into the runway line-up quite effortlessly. For the grand finale, Jacobs later presented another enormous checkered cape, only to then bow to the applause as if nothing had happened. If only all surprises could be this magnificent.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Peaches’ Free Drink Ticket
Peaches is heartbroken and it’s for everyone to see. The uninhibited singer has released the music video to her latest single “Free Drink Ticket”. The clip sees the songstress with a white-painted face and dressed in a leather-net-dress that, as often, exposes every inch of her body. While surrounded by similarly spare-dressed dancers, Peaches performs a kind of ceremony with a pig-headed snake that one can easily interpret as the person addressed in the song itself. “Free Drink Ticket” is a break-up anthem and probably the most honest and forward one to date. In her usual spoken-lyrics-style, the Canadian singer voices phrases like “you were shitting on me, how could I not smell it?” or “spineless coward, I can’t fucking stand liars”, adorned by the occasional thrown-in “fuck you”. The track was taken from Peaches’ 2015 LP “Rub” and is already the sixth release from the album. “Your personality turned to white powder, your brain’s clammed up chowder”, she says, “another free drink ticket, will that make it okay? Drink it up, bitch.” Cheers to you, Peaches.
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
Calvin Klein #mycalvins SS16
With just one campaign, Calvin Klein has gone quite monumental. The new strategy is not just another advertising campaign, it’s a sweeping blow that endorses fashion, pop culture, music and – surprisingly - street life. To visualize the idea of a global campaign that establishes a new philosophy of participation and creation, the brand tapped photographer Tyrone Lebon, who shot the campaign in collaboration with his father, his brother and Klein cooperator David Sims. Even more striking than this creative team is the class of millennial celebrities that lend their faces to the campaign: Justin Bieber, Kendall Jenner, FKA twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Fetty Wap, Saskia de Brauw, to only name a few. Again, Calvin Klein sweeps in musicians, models, artists, but also – and that’s for the street life element – street cast models. Each shot is completed by the line “I _____ in #mycalvins”, obviously aiming at a social-media driven participation in the campaign. One step ahead, Calvin Klein also added a Spotify profile to supply fans of both brand and campaign with playlists and interactive content. And with a package this complete, we really can’t help it. We’re swept away, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 Runway Show
Like pulling a fan from the purse, last weekend, Milan pulled out its best, notable designers and brands to feature their latest menswear F/W 16 collections. One piece of that multifaceted fan was Calvin Klein Collection. The label’s Creative Director Italo Zuccheli presented his collection, featuring 42 looks shown by seven male and four female models, at the company’s headquarter. The gender-crossing casting is set to underline the universal power of men’s tailoring, which was also highly visible in the new designs. Keeping it both classy and classic, the garments include core pieces fundamental to the brand’s identity and menswear essentials. The exquisite tailoring stands next to sumptuous textures and silhouettes. This collection’s eye catchers are a selection of dazzling outerwear pieces, displaying a range of gold, silver and rose gold. Other than that, Calvin Klein’s color palette stays rather neutral, with a selection of black, white, camel and ivy rounding up a collection that spins between eye catching and toned-down pieces. Of course, in the end, Calvin Klein finds a way to balance itself out. That’s the key to fashion, isn’t it? Felicitazione!
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
Burberry at London Collections: Bowie Tribute
Burberry’s London Collections: Men show didn’t only include their latest designs in menswear, but transformed into probably the fastest tribute to the death of David Bowie. Coincidentally, the day of Burberry’s presentation had also been the day of Bowie’s passing. Models presented the garments with glitter on their face and Bowie’s name scribbled across their hands. With 2016 being the year Burberry announced as the unison of its three lines London, Brit and Prorsum, Christopher Bailey and his team went through the archive and got inspired by multiple eras from the late 19th century to the 1970s. This collection’s lovechild was the track top, worn either as outerwear or layered under typical Burberry coats. Colors were as varied as ever, ranging from warm moss greens to neon reds. Of course, with Burberry always being one of the most anticipated labels to present at LC:M, Bailey didn’t disappoint and joined this season’s train of military inspiration. And with a portfolio that diverse, there is no doubt that Mr. Bowie up in heaven would have been proud.
Photos: Marcus Tond/indigitalimages.com
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016
This year, acting and fashion seem to go together better than ever. While Prada has appointed three young actors as their new testimonials, sister brand Miu Miu also once again enlists upcoming actresses as their new campaign faces. For the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, international screen newcomers Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez pose as the new Miu Miu woman. The visuals have a straightforward, uncoded message and were shot by no other than the brand's long-time creative partner Steven Meisel. The collection itself features a diversity of colors and materials. Greys and taupes intercut with maroon, gold and blue while materials like tweed, satin and leather are also used simultaneously. It is with no difficulty that one can sketch an image of this new Miu Miu woman: the risk-taker, the iconoclast, creatively intelligent with a rebellious sense of fashion. Looking to define that in one word? We'd say impeccable.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
Anselm Kiefer Retrospective at Centre Pompidou
The core of French exhibition locations, Paris’ Centre Pompidou hosts a retrospective of the œuvres of famous German artist Anselm Kiefer. Starting last December, the exhibition is set to run until April 16 and features over 150 pieces from the artist’s career. Since Kiefer has been active for several decades, the exhibition will include works from the 1960s until now. Around 60 paintings from important collections around the world are united for the first time and accompanied by other graphic works, sculptures and installations. Since the start of his career, Kiefer’s work has been defined by the usage of multiple techniques that transfer into the possibility of a broad interpretation. He was an important contributor to the revival of German paintings in the 1970s, along with much worshipped colleagues like Gerhard Richter and Georg Baselitz. For anyone who wants to get lost in the world of a thoughtful, artistic genius, a trip to the Centre Pompidou should be on the list for early 2016.
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
Berlin Art Film Festival
LA MORTE DI PASOLINI
Returning this year is the Berlin Art Film Festival, with 20 more films than last year. Without any official sponsor, “From poetry to porn to politics” incorporates the current crisis affecting Europe, whilst also commemorating those who have passed away this year and the on-going gentrification of Berlin today. Among those that will be shown are the likes of Telémachos Alexiou’s “La Morte di Pasolini” and Peter Kern’s “Sarah & Sarah”. Accompanying the film programmes will be parties, discussions, exhibitions and small installations to get involved with and as this festival runs on ticket sales alone, don’t hesitate to check it out!
The Berlin Art Film Festival occurs between December 10 to December 13, 2015.
SARAH & SARAH
THE RASPBERRY REICH
A LOW LIFE MYTHOLOGY
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Woolrich Unveil Second Amsterdam Flagship Store
Designed by the renowned Japanese studio Wonderwall under Masamichi Katayama’s direction, a brand new Woolrich flagship comes to Amsterdam central. Located at the freshly renovated PC Hoofstraat, the boutique is at a prime location, surrounded by fellow international luxury fashion labels.
Extending over two floors, the ground includes an impressive Dutch-style skylight whilst the lower features an intimate lounge area. There are furnishings of Made in the USA Buffalo Check wool, images of the Pennsylvanian Woolrich Mills and items from their archives… In referencing the label’s history, this boutique is reflective of the Woolrich philosophy and a smooth blend of heritage and contemporary.
No Longer / Not Yet
Italian philosopher Giorgio Agamben once famously raised the question “What is the Contemporary?” With this in mind, the Creative Director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, opened a creative debate with his FW15/16 collections for the label and explored it conceptually, “What does contemporary mean?”.
According to Michele, the notion of contemporary refers to a “state of temporal flux”, where relics from the past are fused with signals of the future. In agreement with the statement, “The contemporary is the untimely”, from French semiotician Roland Barthes, Michele has gone on to collaborate with the Editor in Chief of LOVE magazine, Katie Grand, and curate the “No Longer / Not Yet" exhibition, shown in Shanghai’s Minsheng Art Museum.
Artists such as American sculptor Rachel Feinstein, Chinese Op artist Li Shurui and British photographer Glen Luchford have contributed individual works of all mediums reflecting their conceptualizations of the untimely or contemporary. The exhibition will also include a personal artwork from Alessandro Michele.
“No Longer / Not Yet” is on exhibition at the Minsheng Art Museum, Shanghai, until December 16, 2015.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Dior Homme Unveils New Parisian Store
Following their romanticized “Paris XVIE” campaign featuring Boyd Holbrook, Dior Homme have opened a brand new boutique for their menswear line at 24 Rue François 1er.
Across two floors, its beautiful interior design blends ideologies of modernism and elegance with tradition with pioneering innovation. Executed in a minimal palette of black leather and wood, Dior grey and white, the store provides a tranquil setting with impressive light reflective resin structures that bridge the gap between outside and in. Available in store will be all collections designed by Kris Van Assche as well as a space for custom orders.
The boutique even offers an exclusive made-to-measure, home-visit service by the label’s tailoring atelier…The Dior Homme’s shopping experience couldn’t get more enjoyable than this.
Bryan Adams: Exposed
Musician, photographer and founder of ZOO Magazine, Bryan Adams is nothing if not a multitasker. Self-taught, Adams’ photographic material has earned him several distinctions, including two of the German LeadAwards. Primarily focusing on fashion and portraits of celebrities, his work captures the energy and personality of each subject, who have included the likes of Amy Winehouse, Mick Jagger and even Queen Elizabeth II (which, for any collectors out there, actually made it’s way onto Canadian stamps).
His first book of photos entitled “Exposed” is now celebrated in exhibition form, welcoming visitors to see first hand his most remarkable images, in a comprehensive retrospect. The exhibition will run until November 28, 2015, at the Young Gallery, Brussels.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Now in their fourth season, Vetements are no longer the new kids on the block. This collective of young designers who are proving the power of friendship are now also winners of the LVMH Designer Prize. Their latest collection pushes the irrelevance of gender and depicts the ultimate expression of cool.
Making a return to the catwalk are their signature gigantically proportioned suits, this time with dramatic splits up trouser legs and appearing in striking blues and oranges. Jacquard sweaters, Star Wars wide-leg trousers and thigh high boots emblazoned with the Vetements name are taken together to reinforce alternative, youth culture within the context of Parisian fashion.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Damien Hirst Opens the Newport Street Gallery with John Hoyland's "Power Stations"
After three years in production and around £25 million of his own money, Damien Hirst will finally open the Newport Street Gallery in Lambeth, London. Spreading itself over five buildings along one street, the gallery was designed by Caruso St. John and includes the renovation of three Victorian listed buldings, which before the second world war also served as galleries.
Newport Street Gallery will house over 3,000 works from Hirst’s personal collection and includes the likes of Francis Bacon and Tracy Emin. Alongside already established artists will be works from the new generation of emerging artists and from indigenous artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast.
The opening exhibition, displayed in all of the five buildings, will be a retrospective collection of works from the iconic abstract painter, John Hoyland (1934-2011), who has not featured in a major solo exhibition for nearly ten years.
The Newport Street Galleries will open to the public on October 8, 2015, in London. John Hoyland’s “Power Stations” will exhibit here until 3 April, 2016.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Costume National Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Inspired by a film noir comes the latest collection from Ennio Capasa. As expected, it entails a largely black pallet, with the incorporation of white and red.
Deconstructed blazers, ruffled skirts and cut out shoulders explore the various shapes Capasa entertains in this collection. Geometric patterns in lace and embroidery, glitter prints and even a metallic ruched dress showcase an anomaly for the designer, and an exploration into “sensuality”.
Never one to follow a trend, you cannot help but wonder whether the business of the shows of his contemporaries this past week in Milan have pushed him to venture out of his comfort zone this season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Vintage-inspired collections with an eccentric, Italian twist seems to have been a running trend this season at Milan. And who could do it better than Miuccia Prada I ask you. Her line is an army of skirt suits and coats brought to life in classic tweeds, checks or vivid striped leather and suede, alongside the occasional appearance of a translucent number.
Perhaps if another designer had done this you couldn’t help but get lost in repetition… But Prada knows how to play it. She showers each look with her signature style of peculiar accessories and whirls up excitement in her humble onlookers. This season, it’s a circle motif – think lace scarves, sequins and glitzy bauble earrings.
This exceptional collection is proving to be the highlight of the week at Milan and so for that, we salute you Prada. Oh, and for those incredible gold lips as well.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
This sports-inspired line consisting of a neutral palette with the odd splash of vibrancy, suggests Wang has momentarily had his fill of all-black following last season. Mesh vests, crop tops, caps and sneakers make up the newly ex-Balenciaga director’s collection, oozing contemporary casual.
Departing from last season’s look of a subcultural, gothic-rave scene, with only studded sandals as a memento, Alexander Wang has chosen to shift his focus to urban New York streetwear for his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection.
Finished off with a nostalgic highlights reel of the past ten years of his career, along with a star studded front row, the shows reflects Wang as the great New York showman that he is.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
What Do You Mean it’s Exclusive Calvin Klein?
To the avid horror of Beliebers everywhere, the latest Justin Bieber video sees him get pretty well aquainted with model Xenia Deli. The pair writhe around wearing exclusively Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein underwear, to the backing track of his new song, “What do you mean?”. By doing so, he keeps the collab flame alight with the luxury fashion label, after featuring in their racy Spring/Summer 2015 advertising campaign with supermodel Lara Stone.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Boris Mikhailov is Awarded The Goslar Kaiserring 2015
The internationally renowned Boris Mikhailov is rewarded for his groundbreaking efforts in photography, in particular, documenting Soviet Society. Following the footsteps of other revolutionary modern artists, including Gerhard Richter and more recently Matthew Barney, the Ukrainian photographer will accept the prestigious Goslar Kaiserring later this year.
Without any prior training, Boris Mikhilov began to pursue photography whilst working in a factory as an engineer. Experimenting with various techniques, he played around with pictorial material. From primarily capturing his life and the ordinary people who surrounded him on film, he went on to use photography as a medium to make social comments about the regime governing Berlin and the area in which he lived.
These astounding images have gone on to win Boris Mikhailov global recognition. After exhibiting his work in the West from the late 80s, he has acquired numerous awards and his solo collections of works can be found in huge art institutions such as MOMA, New York, and the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris.
Boris Mikhailov receives the Goslar Kaiserring 2015 on October 10.
We Want More: 21st Century Music Photography
Currently shown at the Photographer’s Gallery in London (17 July – 20 September), We Want More studies the changing dynamic between “image-making and music in the 21st century”.
Unlike previous times, both the photographer and musician are no longer constrained by briefs given by particular publications. Instead they are freer to realize their own creative visions in the resulting images.
Curator Diane Smythe displays a range of energetic images, from Ewen Spencer’s Ayia Napa ravers to Katy Perry impersonating royalty, as shot by Ryan Enn Hughes.
Pictured above is a still from Roger Ballens’ series of alternative South African group Die Antwoord, from their iconic “Fink U Freeky” music video, which also features in the exhibition. Notably, Die Antwoord actually sought out Ballen to direct this for them, as they believed that he specifically could understand the vision they wanted to create.www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Axel Hoedt: Dusk
Taking you on a journey through the carnival culture of the southwest of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, Axel Hoedt’s project invites a critical and curious take on the representations of carnival. Dusk undermines the often clichéd traditional views of the carnival subculture, whose image is peppered with visions of somersaults and drunken debauchery.
Against the backdrops of simplicity and normality, Hoedt places the performers directly in the frame of an alternate existence – their lives outside of the revelry for which they are dressed. Photographed in earnest poses and against the backdrop of the harsh winter landscape, Hoedt evokes the true essence of the carnival: the final celebration before the dawning of hard times.
For more about Axel Hoedt’s project, go to:
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Menswear
Like the nautical reincarnation of the Victorian gentleman, Sarah Burton’s creative lead steered the McQueen collection towards graphic prints of mythical sea creatures on classic, vintage cuts. Tailored jacquard patterns were intertwined with up-scale pajama-inspired looks. To enhance the look of the nautical was the fresh-out-the-water locks.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Christian Dior Opens New Boutique in Seoul
Part marbled orchid, part contemporary architectural statement, Dior’s new Seoul-located boutique is built for an allround shopping experience. Created by the French architect Christian de Portzamparc, the boutique includes a lounge, gallery, and Pierre Herme-operated café, as well as the first stand-alone Homme Boutique. Located in the heart of the Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-du district of Seoul, the imposing six-story building houses the fashion house’s extensive range of accessories and ready-to-wear.
To celebrate the opening of the boutique, Dior has launched a limited edition collection to be sold exclusively in Korea. The collection includes handbags and accessories and will be engraved with the “Limited Edition” seal. These unique-to-Korea items include a Tiger keychain and the lambskin Lady Dior handbags, created in the image of the façade of the Portzamparc building.
The boutique is set to open on June 20th, 2015.
SYBILLE by Hester Scheurwater
Dutch artist Hester Scheurwater does not tiptoe around the topic of female sexuality. Her oeuvre is beset by her ardent investigation and critique of the role of women as a sex object. Using portraiture, her work often includes the use of reflections, more specifically, through the inclusion of a physical mirror that communicate inner thoughts and outward appearance.
Explaining the impact of her work in ZOO issue 31, Scheurwater states “It is ‘normal’ for male artists to look at the female body and turn it into the object of their art. It becomes an aberration when it is a woman who handles the chisel or stands behind the camera, especially if they portray themselves”. Her work is no stranger to censorship, featuring provoking and often unsettling perspectives of the female form.
Her latest collaboration SYBILLE follows in the same vein. A collection of images taken of the same subject, the SYBILLE study is available in 100 softcover zine editions, signed and numbered.
Orders can be sent to firstname.lastname@example.org
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
Hotel Chateau de Varenne
Built as a private residence, the Chateau de Varenne castle hotel is newly renovated in keeping with local heritage. With a rich history steeped in romanticism, the XVIIIth century building looks onto the Rhone Valley and the village Sauveterre in the heart of Provence.
With a decidedly personal touch, the village farmer makes the fruit juices, the jams are hand-made, croissants freshly delivered by the local baker, and the honey is produced by a local Roquemaure beekeeper.
Member of the prestigious Cercle Prestige du Comité du Tourisme Languedoc Rousillon, the hotel is of true quality. With three hectares of garden, the Chateu is an oasis in itself, yet a mere minutes drive away from Avignon.
Paris Photo Los Angeles 2015
Held on May 1st – 3rd, the annual spring art fair was presented by Paramount Pictures studios in Los Angeles. The blank canvas to the many bodies of work on display, the space featured 79 leading galleries and art book dealers from 17 countries worldwide. The public program was built around international cultural events, artists, art world professionals, collectors and institutions.
Artists and curators such as Pierre Bismuth, Jonathan Griffin (editor, Frieze Magazine) and Pauline J. Yao (Curator, M+, Hong Kong) engaged audiences with dialogues both practical and philosophical about the image in contemporary society in the Sound & Vision series. Exhibitors highlighted artists taken by diverse subjects and techniques – from the cinematic close ups of Ori Gersht, presented by the gallery ART LEXÏNG to the multilayered artifice of reflection in landsapes by Zoé T. Vizcaíno by DOCUMENT ART.
Presented by J.P. Morgan, UNEDITED! – An unveiling of never-before-seen photographic material and INTRODUCING! – The Young California Photographer Award was given for the first time to the UCLA Arts MFA student CJ Heyliger. Paris Photo also displayed a selection of artworks from the JPMorgan Chase Art Collection. The pieces in SPOTLIGHT! explore themes of identity, landscape and abstraction and included contemporary artists such as Thierry Fontaine, Ori Gersht and Thomas Ruff.
Images top to bottom:
Zoé T. Vizcaíno Umbral
Arden Ellis Surdam
To read more, visit www.parisphoto.com/losangeles
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza
For the first time in Europe, a Hard Rock Hotel has opened its doors. The five-star hotel is located on the beachfront of Ibiza, and is the island’s largest in the 5-star hotel category. With amazing line-ups, four restaurants and seven bars, there is always something to do.
To give visitors the ultimate rock star experience, the designers of the hotel have thought about every detail. The overall look might seem a bit over the top, but every corner and every room is created to give you a memorable musically-infused experience. Staying close to the essence of Hard Rock, you can find memorabilia throughout the entire hotel. You’ll see instruments and other items that were once owned by well-known musicians.
To make you feel like one of those musicians, you get to be completely in control of the music around you. When you check in, you can choose your favorite tracks that will play once enter your room. Once you get there, you can mix those tracks on a professional mixer that is ready for you to use, just like several instruments for you to jam on.
With thirteen different room categories, the Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza is an extremely diverse one. All 493 rooms are filled with nicely designed furniture to give you the most comfortable and inspiring stay. The spacious suites include all luxuries, with the best linens, led-light chromotherapy and an Xbox in every suite.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert
When we look at the past few decades of British fashion, we can conclude quite quickly that Alexander McQueen has been one of the most innovative and creative designers. The board of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has therefore decided to celebrate McQueen’s genius with an exhibition called “Savage Beauty”. It takes you through his life, mind and work and shows you his passions for romanticism and curiosities.
Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 photographed by Marc Hom. © Marc Hom/Trunk Archive
It’s Only a Game, Spring/Summer 2005. Image: firstVIEW
The exhibition can be visited every day, until the 2nd of August of this year.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
In Focus: Play at J. Paul Getty Museum
Summer, The Lower East Side, New York City, 1937. Weegee (Arthur Fellig). The J. Paul Getty Museum. © International Center of Photography
Photography was introduced in 1839. Around the same time, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, a number of people in Europe and the United States were starting to discover the perks of having a previously unimaginable amount of free time.
During the 1850s, the notion of leisure became a photographic subject; activities like visits to amusement parks and circuses and playing in the street were now recorded, highlighting the myriad ways in which people can spend their free time.
From 23 December, 2014, to 10 May, 2015, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles will present more than two dozen images from the institution's permanent collection. 'In Focus: Play' will trace the development of photography, all the while revealing the very nature of recreation.
The exhibition will feature photographic works by prominent and lesser-known artists such as Diane Arbus, Imogene Cunningham, Roger Fenton, Man Ray and Larry Sultan.
In Focus: Play 23 December, 2014 – 10 May, 2015
The Beats and The Vanities, Larry Fink Exhibition at Armani/SIlos
A collection of exquisite black and white photographs from Larry Fink’s The Beats and The Vanities books will comprise the latest exhibition at Armani/Silos. The exhibition presents a unique opportunity for the legendary photographer’s work and idiosyncratic vision to be experienced as one as they have never before been shown together before.
Giorgio Armani himself is a great fan of Larry Fink’s work, finding his ability to capture form and line in such a fluid way something he can relate to as well as a designer. “Fink is a jazz fan, and you can almost view these images in terms of musical composition – people in flow, surprising us, possessing an unconscious sensuality”, he adds.
Born in Brooklyn and raised in a progressive and politically active family, Fink cut his teeth as a photographer as part of the late beat generation, when he hooked up with a group of beats at the age of 17. Political activism, protests and marches formed the photographers worldview who documented the times through his medium-format camera.
His pictures serve as a time capsule and a candid look into his world, perfectly capturing the sense of romance and rebellion that characterised the underground jazz-fuelled youth movement of the time. A regular editorial contributor for prestigious titles such as The New Yorker and Vanity Fair, it was the latter that recognised his ability to bring them something different if let loose to create.
His visual record of the famous and their surrounding courtiers is not concerned with who’s who – rather it focuses on what’s happening. As Fink himself describes it, he tries to embrace the souls of all people, regardless of their conditions.
The Beats and The Vanities, Photographs by Larry Fink will be on show at the Armani/Silos until the end of July 2017.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
Loewe’s creative director J.W. Anderson is transforming this luxury Spanish leather brand into an impressive fashion house where cultural references, design, architecture, and the beautiful leather craftsmanship coexist.
Like for his eponymous label, Anderson is able to create a dialogue between the arts, where fashion is at its centre, without any stretch. The romantic and enchanting feeling reminiscent of Gone with the Wind’s Rossella O’Hara ball gowns together with a playful splash of Commedia Dell’Arte’s Pierrot and Harlequin, where the polka dots and the western hat felt perfectly parts of the same image. But also the signature handkerchief hem dresses and a parade of countless accessories declined in new colours like the polka dot iconic puzzle bag.
As in every season we see experimentations with butter lamb leather in exceptional peplum waist-cinching tops, dresses, suits, outwear in a variety of colours: lipstick red, moss green, and the forever favourite almond and black. There are so many fascinations Anderson took into account for Loewe Fall Winter 2017 and it just feel fresh and captivating.
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017
Declinations of deconstructed silhouettes in shades of black. Pleated, wrapped, twisted. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017 celebrates the roots of the acclaimed Japanese master himself in all the aspects that have been constantly accompanying his vision.
Forty-four looks of pure architectural shapes, and virtuosic silhouettes in a crescendo of emotions. As Yamamoto once again recorded his own guitar playing for the show music, it’s almost as if we could see him, in his home, sitting down and casually strumming his acoustic guitar, in search for fragments of time, emotions, images. Singing about a woman, the archetype of the woman itself.
And it’s the search for the perfect balance of draping around the female body the protagonist of the collection. The gracious volumes protruding along the figure with bias cut, deconstructed, rigorously in black with hand-painted splash of purple and blue. Painting has always been a beautiful obsession for the Japanese designer and we know he would never refrain from expressing the refuse to use print patterns.
The collection synthesizes magnetically these feelings of attachments to identity and the exciting search for the new. Yohji Yamamoto showed once again the unconditional pure beauty of staying true to oneself.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have come to a point in fashion when history has been elevated without precedent. There is a lot of the 80s Monsieur Yves we know in the new Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017 there is again a respectful reference to the history but also a lot of the Vaccarello DNA that we have seen in his eponymous label for many years.
That sexiness, that daring and fierce attitude the Italo-Belgian designer infused in his own shows season after season before becoming the new creative director of the historical Maison. And then there is the show vibe. Anthony Vaccarello presented his second collection for Saint Laurent in a surreal, and provoking atmosphere inside the under-construction site of the new brand’s head quarters in rue Bellechasse at the Left Bank of the Seine. The rain pouring down, the scaffolding as backdrop, the loud pulsing music as in any squat party, was the perfect set as to declare a new beginning, the shaping of the new identity of Saint Laurent in fieri.
Bold short dresses in velvet, caramel and black leather matched with long up-to-the-neck gloves as to create a tromp l’oeil effect for maxi shoulders. Thigh-high boots in patent leather and rhinestones with ruches - sure to become the obsession of next season. But also strong day looks with an invasive sense of masculinity: denim with mohair sweaters, shearling jackets, or a simple tee. It’s that subversive soul that Yves Saint Laurent himself was known for. It’s that unexpected atmosphere that everyone is waiting with anticipation at this fashion house. As his predecessor, Vaccarello will make everyone want to wear his clothes. With no exceptions.
UGG is REAL
A new global marketing Spring/Summer 2017 campaign has been launched by UGG to break down stereotypes.
Aptly titled “REAL” and bearer of a strong message, the campaign features a collective of authentic Californian artists, musicians, surfers, creatives and eccentrics that in their provocative, progressive and free spirited attitudes mirror the core values of the Californian fashion apparel.
Inspired by the beaches, mountains and iconic architecture of California, the stories of Tasya, the songs of Warm Brew, the trips of Colleen and many others will mix together to give birth to a whole contemporary romance where diversity is the main splendid character.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Woolrich Re-imagines Men's Outerwear
Woolrich continues its long-standing tradition in conceiving and manufacturing technical outerwear of exceptional quality, a tradition born in the late 70s that has continued to be well-received by avid mountaineers.
The brand is relaunching its Mountain Jacket, one of the first examples of technical outerwear that ushered in the expansion of men's outdoor clothing in order to cater to the requirements of outdoor activities such as backpacking, camping and cycling. Designed with functional elements that suit the requirements of such activities, Woolrich's latest edition of the Mountain Jacket strikes the perfect balance between style and function thus also catering to the more aesthetically driven consumer.
A more contemporary style is brought to the fore ensuring maximum freedom of movement, comfort and warmth with its form-fitting cut, adjustable cuffs and ergonomic style. Gore-tex®'s lightest fabric, the Paclite, guarantees the best performance. Despite the air of innovation that characterises the latest jackets, the brand loyally adheres to the design elements of the late 70s that proved so successful in the past.
With a perfectly breathable waterproof Gore-tex® layer beneath the traditional durable and water repellent outer layer, the Mountain Jacket has proved itself to be a perfect companion for adventures in nature.
The adventurous gentlemen of BOSS Fall/Winter 2017
Gentlemen who voyage across the world without ever losing their style, inspired Hugo Boss for its latest collection, dedicated to those ready to take on the world.
Adventurers and explorers’ outfits that combine performance and functionality with Boss’ key foundations: precise cuts and construction. The modern traveller wardrobe will be composed of wider 80s silhouettes mixed with slimmer, modern cuts and long and short designs. Love for details is never forgotten by the brand that for this collection added a touch of maritime influence in pea coats and duffels secured with buckled straps and chunky fastenings in the style of nautical equipment.
Fabric research is just an added value to a proposal that puts quality first. Boiled wool, bonded leather and cotton to provide protection and create incredibly à la mode oversized shapes. Fisherman-style knitwear is crafted in chunky constructions and zipped closed with ring pulls to be functional and masculine at the same time. The color palette varies from off-white to burgundy and olive green passing through navy shades.
Modern travellers can sleep soundly: their luggage will always be fashionable.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2017
A mobius of forms, shaped in the seam lines, leading to dramatic volumes. Beautifully balanced but also true to his roots, Glenn Martens created a collection where Y/Project's identity is declined to a new sphere, all played through Martens’ all-time favourite ironic approach to dualities.
The low and the high, the elites and the masses, deconstructed garments and slouchy fits. Between historical reinvention and street culture, Y/Project's Menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2017 continues to master that relaxed and youthful attitude that has characterized Martens’ work from the start.
Doubled silk shirts, deconstructed faux fur, reinvented corduroy suits, slouchy oversized track suits straight from a rapper's videoclip, followed by the impressive sweatsuits with wired piping in a blobbing volume, reminiscent of that mantle draping we have seen on 1808 Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’s portrait of Napoleon.
As Napoleon and consort printed on scarves in football merch fashion - part of Martens' playful reference along with other royal couples such as Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette - steal the scene and we cannot choose. We can only root for this talented Belgian designer.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
GmbH Fall/Winter 2017: When a thought becomes you
In a Society of Limitations where people are together yet alone, GmbH addresses the situation with an inclusive Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to different shapes, gestures and manners.
The collection paired fashion with sustainability featuring bi-colour cropped GmbH biker jackets reworked from recycled, reversible Helly Hansen puffer coats, cropped jersey hoodies and fine knit athletic bodies of partially recycled fibres. A shot of glamour is given by tight lycra and velvet long-sleeved jumpers in a color palette inspired by artist Alexandra Bircken. Moreover traditional carpenter’s guild trousers and gold embroideries enrich the outfits for an even more personal touch.
As GmbH declared: “These are directives for care and wear, eine wahre Geschichte, eine Warengeschichte, a true story a history of wares.”
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017
Thousands of little flags suspended from the Grand Palais ceiling, as one of those summer festivals when the night breeze brush them gently. The coloured lights illuminating the room mimicking the stage reflectors of any hard rock concert we have attended in our teens.
When the Depeche Mode lyrics started to play and the lights went up revealing the cardboard boxes and “HARDIOR” packing tape paving the regal space, it all came together.
Kris Van Assche channelled his childhood memories in 90s Antwerp clubs, the music, the parties, creating an electrifying collection that explored not only the new course of Dior Homme after 10 years at its reigns but also the possible declination of modern tailoring.
Van Assche designed the suit for the young man, a dialogue between the cool boy party animal and formal clothing. Close fit blazer revealing baste stitching matched with relaxed loose high waist trousers worn with trainers and white socks. Winking to street-wear.
A sweater with the clustered image of monsieur Christian Dior himself - whose birthday was surprisingly the day of the show - and the sentence written right below “They should just let us rave” turned quickly the attention to a more rebellious side of Van Assche: the gothic sweeping floor length capes and teddy bear chain trousers, the hand painted short fur bomber jackets, the aquamarine jumpers and the orange pony double breasted trench coat.
The Belgian designer picked the candy boys, the gabba, the new wave and the mosch pits at raves as his references. The latter, illustrated by the hand of American artist Dan Witz and printed in few closing looks - like the intricate reverse sequins suit - gave a poignant accent to the whole collection.
Dior Homme is beautifully evolving into a strong luxury fashion brand and as the light goes down we can’t help but be excited, like the post feeling of any great concert.
PORTS 1961 LOVERS ARMY
PORTS 1961 Fall/Winter 2017 collection is all about love and its universal meaning. A collection that is minimalist and gives off a younger appeal than past seasons, will definitely warm your wardrobe and your heart.
The Ports 1961 man is ready to face whatever the day has in store. From protective sports clothing inspired by urban workwear to construction suits. Materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, giving a touch of virility to a pretty chic sportswear collection. In the contrasting palette of black, grey, red and orange, reversible bombers, slit sleeves’ coats, studded blousons and piped trousers are just a bite of this collection that sees heart and love all over it.
Details are what bring this collection its tempo – camouflage prints adored by Milan Vukmirovic are reworked and the quintessential white shirt is embellished with a blood red embroidered heart.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Invictus and Olympéa Intense: Paco Rabanne’s divine fragrances
Radical, free, avant-garde. These codes are at the core of Paco Rabanne both in fashion and scents. Invictus and Olympéa Intense are the ultimate unconventional and open to fantasy scents representing two exceptional figures that together create an explosive encounter.
Invictus is man in all his force, robustly pure and athletic. It plays on the shock between blazing amber woods and a marine “salty skin” accord, in a woody-fresh wake. Green-aromatic laurel leaf and orange blossom electrified by notes of black pepper are added to give an intensified, sensual effect. The bottle, dark and sculptural, represents what the Invictus man is all about: an infallible hero who never gives in, a God on earth.
Olympéa empowers women by taking sensuality up a notch. Salty vanilla wrapped up in cashmere wood is at the base of the scent enriched by a duel in which opposites attract. On one side a floral pulse given by white pepper, orange flower and grapefruit blossom. On the other, the warmth of white amber and cedar wood. A glass circular bottle in metal colors represents the perfect construction between geometrical strength and curves, embodying the sacred female of Olympéa, the divine queen.
Nike Air Max 97: the Silver side of Italians
As the homeland of prêt-à-porter, Italy has always introduced new ways of fashion appreciation that we've all emulated at some point or another. Nike's 'La Silver' sneaker has been, and remains to this day, a strong example of this very concept.
When this sneaker made its first appearance in the fashion market in 1997, it failed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward Italians. It was snubbed, regarded as ugly, weird, otherworldly even. For others, those were La Silver's winning characteristics, making this model the star of 20th century footwear trends in Italy.
For a decade, its ostentatious shine and sleek lines made it a staple in many young Italians' Christmas wish lists. As a symbol of Italian gabber dancing culture and futurism, this sneaker was offered in colour variations that never went unnoticed. It wasn't long before La Silver had snuck its way into the hearts and wardrobes of both fashion addicts and proponents of a more 'chav chic' aesthetic.
Straight out of its homeland, “La Silver” by Nike is back on the market after 20 years. This makes us wonder: is this a new icon for this generation or a mere throwback for those who were there from the start?
DIESEL creates ALRITE: the timeless watch that takes art to the street
To do good and in an innovative way has always been considered one of Diesel's mottos. This winter and in collaboration with Fossil, the Italian brand has undoubtedly hit its target with its latest project: the Diesel ALRITE timepieces.
Cut out from 150 square meters of original artwork by Rostarr, who collaborated in the design of this accessory, ALRITE is literally a work of art that endures the passage of time while paying homage to both art and Diesel’s DNA.
The 555 pieces that make up this Limited edition collection are completely unique and each different from one another, making for one-of-a-kind watches. This feeling of exclusivity is exactly what this hand-wrapped genuine leathers watch brings to the wearer by intertwining the aspects of time and timelessness.
Moreover Diesel ALRITE teams up with Sotheby’s to reinforce the message of not only bringing art back, but also doing so for a good cause. Three pieces from this unique collection will be auctioned via e-bay for charity. Funds will be donated to the Only The Brave Foundation that has been working with Diesel for many years to fight against social inequality and working on sustainable development across the world.
“Create products that draw the line between pragmatic and fashion forward” this mission has been definitely brought to life.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
The TOUCH revolution by Replay
Rich and inviting fabrics, smoothness and stretch materials: the focal points of Replay's new disruptive jeans: TOUCH
The brand's revolutionary jeans promise to fulfill the needs of modern women by allowing them to feel comfortable, sexy and elegant in jeans that don't crease and are available in a selection of colors, washes and cuts.
The advertising campaign will feature supermodels Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls and Stella Maxwell personifying women going about their daily routines in order to highlight the practicality of Replay's TOUCH jeans range.
Dance your style off at Pitti Uomo 2017
Between 10-13th of January, dance and fashion will create a perfect parallelism in what is preannounced to be the most multimedia and vibrant edition of Pitti Uomo.
During its 91st season, the Florence fashion kermises will show the previews of F/W menswear collections following the slogan “ Tell me how you dance and I’ll tell you how you dress”.
Pitti Dance Off, the theme chosen for the whole exhibition, wants to be an invitation to express our body and attitude evoking the ultimate essence of diversity and encouraging freedom of personal style as a common thread for both dance and fashion. Over 1220 brands, among Zegna, Paul Smith, Tommy Hilfiger and new emerging talents will participate, dancing together at the rhythm of street style music. A special #PittiSign has also been launched, a sort of distinctive “finger tut” taken from the street dance tradition in order to symbolize Pitti Immagine’s initials and create awareness around the exhibition between the youngest.
With sets designed by architect and designer Oliviero Baldini, irony will be the key to literally invade the famous Fortezza da Basso welcoming new menswear, and maybe social, horizons.
Prada presents 'Past Forward'
Miuccia Prada has teamed up with director David O. Russell to produce a cinematic poem that transcends logic and goes beyond traditional narratives and plots.
This futuristic silent dreamscape explores the nature of time through an intertwining series of scenarios, characters, costumes and genres that blend into each other. Viewers are left to decide on their own which parts of this amalgamation are memory, which are dream and which are real life.
The star-studded cast that includes, Freida Pinto, Allison Williams, Kuoth Wiel and John Krasinski among other recognisable figures, are dressed from head to toe in signature Prada outfits as they perform their roles in shifting combinations.
Much like in silent movies from the 30s music plays a pivotal part in the short film and infuses the moving images with tangible emotion. The absence of word also allows viewers to get completely immersed in the beautifully shot black and white scenes that unfold before one's eyes. Executed in a way that does not distract from the process of deciphering complex and nuanced meanings, Past Forward is much more than a silent fashion film. As O. Russell himself stated what is magical and strange about cinema is precisely what is so magical and strange about life – where beauty lives is entirely subjective to the individual.
The multi-platform film project premiered in Los Angeles on November 15th in the company of Prada's esteemed guests and is now available on the brand's official website.
Prada Resort 2017 Campaign
American actress Jessica Chastain features in the latest Prada campaign, shot in Milan by Willy Vanderperre. Captured around the Northern Italian city’s most memorable places, like the Civic Planetarium “Ulrico Hoepli” and the newly introduced Fondazione Prada, the images see Chastain dressed in Prada essentials. As Prada firstly goes through its own traditions, the new blend of textures and patterns make feminine and masculine fuse, seeing the brand explore a different venture.
Le Narcisse Blanc: pure Art de Vivre
Like a bright flower blossoming in the heart of Paris, Le Narcisse Blanc is a contemporary pleasure dome where guests can breathe the magic of the French capital.
Situated between the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, this 5-star hotel and spa casts an incredible view to the Seine and the most majestic Parisian buildings from its bohemian terraces. Le Narcisse Blanc offers the proper Art de Vivre feeling through its cozy sitting rooms, luxurious spa with swimming pool, hydrotherapy massage jets and sauna and last but not least its 37 spacious bedrooms and suites in silky champagne tones.
Designed in luxurious and refreshing taste by "Laurent & Laurence", the hotel creates a perfect balance between Art Nouveau and Art Deco that are fused with contemporary elements, serving as an homage to the perfect Parisian lifestyle. Because, in the words of Victor Hugo “Respirez Paris, preserve l’âme”.
Woolrich opens flagship store in Antwerp
Woolrich has opened its first Belgian store in Antwerp, the centre of design and fashion. This marks the beginning of the expansion of Woolrich across Europe, with 75 new stores opening over the next three years. The Woolrich store in Antwerp is located on the Schuttershofstraat, a new home for luxury brands. Its interior blends contemporary furnishing with classical Belgian traits, lending inspiration from creative director Masamichi Katayama, but sticking to Belgian heritage. The Creative Director Andrea Canè says: ”Woolrich has grown exponentially in Belgium in the few last years. The opening of a flagship store in this particular moment in time makes communication with our customer not only simpler but also direct and allows us to bring the world of Woolrich to Belgium.”
Céline Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
“All artists are alike. They dream of doing something that’s more social, more collaborative, and more real than art”. The words of Dan Graham resonate across the vision of Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring Summer 2017. The American artist, writer and architect created a spatial installation for the show, a work along the series of his “Pavilions”, where transparent partitions divide the space while enabling the view toward the world on the other side. Its sounds, the flaws. Céline collection for next Spring has a sophisticated urban vibe. It pictures a multitude of women as vast as the everyday city grain. The romantic overalls in mousseline peaking from pant suits. A practical cotton oversized shirt attached to a pleated skirt to form a midi dress. The unpredictable mismatched shoes. Different personalities. At a closer look the most incredible luxurious detailing emerge, as just we would expect from a fashion house like Céline: the perfectly balanced weight of a linen unstructured dress, the supple leather, the gentle unfinished look of raw hems. But they are clothes you can pick in a rush and wear with an effortless attitude. In some of the looks the styling is constructed to almost emulate that rush, with garments layered or tucked in each other as if there was no time to overthink. A smart woman who picks a timeless vintage bag preciously kept in the years. She walks through the harsh realm of everyday noise.
LOEWE Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The shore of an unidentified coast. Men swimming endlessly in a deep blue sea against oil barrels floating in the water. The unsettling vision of “Offshore”, the short video by Dutch artist Magali Reus, served as scenic element for Loewe Spring Summer 2017 show, giving that contemporary reference to a collection sophisticated yet sensual and fresh.
Jonathan Anderson created flowing silhouettes in black, off white, brown with a splash of fuchsia, blue, green, mixing a number of references from Japan to the Spanish heritage of the brand. Oversized long flared sleeves with leather waist cinchers as a revised contemporary version of a kimono obi belt. Long twirling dresses with bias cut, unfinished hems, the raw feeling of burlap, fringes and patchwork textiles masterly hinting to Spanish folklore.
The powerful broad collection of accessories with the most iconic bags of the brand declined in several new finishes and colours and accessories like the calla lilies on bracelets and ankles complete the luxurious atmosphere frame.
Anderson’s vision for Loewe is growing and becoming season after season more mature and daring, transforming in short time this label to a relevant player in the industry.
Scotch & Soda’s “Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam”
A map that’ll help you getting lost and explore the hidden greatness of Amsterdam: an innovative way to discover the places Google doesn’t suggest. Scotch & Soda presents the Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam, an newspaper-zine available in stores and the online app from mid-October. Visual artist Jan Rothuizen and journalist Fiona Hering roam around the city with well-known influencers in the creative fields music, fashion, business and art, the so-called “Misguiders”. For its first edition, the Misguiders five Amsterdam “un-tips” and further includes a redrawn and reimagined Amsterdam by Rothuizen and pictures of the Misguiders by photographer Mounir Raji. For its launch, Papersmith studio artist Mandy Smith created an origami garment made from the zine.
Adam Kakembo, CMO of Scotch & Soda, says: “Nowadays, we don’t go anywhere offline without fully exploring online first: then we know exactly what to expect when we get there. With the “The Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam” we want to spark curiosity and rediscover the forgotten art of personal discovery.”
Gucci Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Resurging against a tide of tepid good taste, it seems collectively we’ve been revelling with childish glee at the sheer unpredictability of Gucci’s new mood – an exercise in indulgence, ostentation and unbridled eccentricity. Of course, SS17 stands a season that was defined by its very volatility; fashion houses would fast-forward the commerce of their catwalk goods, while others would lie in wait in lieu of constant Creative Directors. In the wake of all this uncertainty, one thing was assured; Alessandro Michele would deliver a line-up to fawn over. And that he did, from the first look to the last. Candy colors collided in a charged kaleidoscope of powder pink and pea green, clipped tailored cuts topped by rose turbans, while separates eschewed all the fustiness of jacquard with the glitzy glaze of lurex. Frills spilled down ruffled bibs as aristocratic outlines reigned, from pigeon-breast blouses to ball gowns bolstered by mutton sleeves, arriving via the disco as decadent tradition took a trip for tinsel. All were stitched by the insignia that serves the signature of Gucci’s new sovereign, an eclectic embroidery of exotic animals, love hearts and sweet slogans, artfully patched across tulle smocks, fuzzy fun-fur coats and snakeskin hardware in an exuberant stream of consciousness. This is the doorway to the mind of a man with the imagination of a boy. Little of Michele’s world makes logical sense, but why live in the world when you can live in your head? We’re just thankful he invited us in.
Fendi Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
It’s a habit of Fendi’s to disorientate its audience of time and place, warping history’s resolvable symbols so they can no longer be defined by date, resigned to obsolescence as recognisable relics of the past. For SS17, heritage harbored a hint of the alienesque, as Marie Antoinette aprons abjured their impracticality in favor of terse technical cuts. Fine pencil stripes stalked slender peplum blouses, cinched at the waist and bolted with a highway of plump covered buttons from navel to neck. Patch pockets punctuated the breast, their sensibility softened by the buttery cuts of sloped shoulders, even the most straight-laced starched cotton evoking the ease of the neighbouring gauzy silks. Rugby hoop stripes sat thicker, banded across scarlet crop sweaters, slit with an anarchist’s mind for modesty in spite of the prim powder-pink A-lines which swayed beneath. Apron dresses made a break from diaphanous tulles and brief bloomers, V-necks slashed at right angles from shoulder to sternum, as hems vied for a deep diamond, centering from the hip in towards the knee. All this technicality circuited to the finer details of the collection, models pallid but for pithy metal pouts, hair parted at the center with strands seeping into wispy pig-tails at the crown. History may have repeated itself, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it, not with Lagerfeld at the helm.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photographer David Sims has collaborated with Acne Studios on its latest Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign with three separate stories, which will be fully released during New York Fashion Week starting 5th September. Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has long admired the work of Sims and envisioned the latest campaign to be a fashion story without boundaries incorporating David Sims’ classic take of fashion shoots and his ability to set a specific mood without a conventional narrative.
Acne Studios Emoji Collection
The latest capsule collection for Acne Studios embraces their playful side, as the garments are embellished with emojis. Classic staple pieces have been giving a slight twist by the quirky detailing of ordinary objects. Bananas, doughnuts and microphones are printed oversized on black and grey sweatshirts, while hot dogs are presented as a knitted pattern on sweaters and jersey t-shirts. Smaller accessories are a pig’s nose printed on the chest and square emoticons with thought bubbles. The collection is available now in store and online.
Swarovski Member of Fashion Council Germany
Swarovski is the newest member of The Fashion Council Germany, which was founded last year to be an advocate for and mentor to German fashion designers. One of these designers is Vienna-born Marina Hoermannseder, who has in three years gained fans like singer Lady Gaga with her orthopaedic corsets. Marina’s latest collection included a corsage and skirt embellished with crystals, which was made through a collaboration with six other designers who created a special collection using Swarovski crystals. The Council’s Chairman is Vogue Editor-In-Chief Christiane Arp, who said; “It is important to help design talent get more attention. We are delighted to have the support of Swarovski for our talent development initiative.”
COS Autumn/Winter 2016
Ghanaian artist Lynette Yiadom Boakye’s paintings serve as inspiration in COS Autumn/Winter 2016 rich colour palette, which is made of dark navy, intense blue, ochre, burgundy and forest green.
For the women’s collection, COS has modified its classic structure, with an emphasis on exaggeration, through high turtlenecks, prolonged sleeves and oversized, wide trousers. Key for this collection is layering and blends of different materials, as a silk shirt is placed over a cotton skirt and a asymmetric scarf worn with a viscose-plated knitted top. Essential accessories this season is a leather shopper, which doubles as a clutch.
The colour palette and silhouettes for the men’s collection are inspired by Berlin-based artist Lev Khesin. Again, layering takes a primary role, as we see a padded technical vest combined with wool. COS has developed its pure tailoring to a softer silhouette. The brown oxford shoe, as well as the modernized leather sneaker are fundamental in this autumn collection.
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Fendi Haute Fourrure Collection Fall/Winter 2016/17
Legends and Fairy Tales are the main inspiration for Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection, as Karl Lagerfeld reveals; “I always take inspiration from what is in the air. But this time I especially took inspiration from some illustrations of legends and fairy tales, very romantic and modern at the same time. All the looks have something poetic, but in a very contemporary dimension”. A romantic colour palette of soft pink and whites along with light materials like silk and tulle symbolize a dream. The sunset is portrayed with shades of blue and knitted organza. Black, cashmere and fur portray the dark night sky. 600 hours of expert artisan skills were involved in creating the beautifully applied flower and feather embroideries, which illustrates the Maison’s creativity and expertise.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016 #mycalvins
All of the Calvin Klein brands; Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear are combined in the Fall 2016 campaign under its title “I ___ in#mycalvins. The short video and images are shot by photographer and filmmaker Tyrone Lebon, who also shot Calvin Klein’s Spring 2016 campaign. Casted for Fall 2016s campaign are talented actors, musicians, fashion role models and athletes, along with professional and street casted models. This includes songwriter and producer Frank Ocean, supermodel Kate Moss, fashion icon Grace Coddington, rapper Yung Lean and Real Madrid footballer James Rodriguez. The campaign feels personal and authentic because of the intimate conversations with the cast. “Through our Fall 2016 campaign, we push the boundaries of traditional advertising with our content and our cast,” reveals Melisa Goldie, Chief Marketing Officer of Calvin Klein, Inc. Launched today on its website, www.ck.com/mycalvins, you’ll find a selection of 50 videos with interviews of the cast, behind-the-scenes footage and more.
Miu Miu Club members were invited to attend the-miumiu-club Paris exclusively for the celebration of Paris Couture Week, to view the Cruise collection and which also showcased the new autumn/winter 2016 campaign. Dirty Pretty Strings performed at the event, on the turntables were Paul Simonon, Kate Moss alongside others. The rooms with impeccable detailing, including the painted ceiling by Paul Baudry, were transformed into clubrooms such as a cinema, restaurant and show house. This was held in the Hotel de la Paiva on the Champs-Elysees, built mid-1800s as private residence for commissioner Esther Lachmann, also known as La Paiva. Miu Miu Clubs are also held in London, Shanghai, Los Angeles and Macau, China.
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Models Simon Fitskie and Rianne Van Rompaey shine in the latest Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign, shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in Sicily, Italy. The collections dark yet dynamic colour palette consisting of royal red, peacock blue and black bounces off beautifully of the paleness of the background, artistic landscape Grande Cretto Gibellina of Italian artist Alberto Burri, which is in glistening white cement. Burri created the Grande Cretto as a monument for the village Giberllina when an earthquake completely destroyed the town in 1968.
MBFW: Augustin Teboul S/S 2017
Accompanied by mellow music of a rock band with slow drums, a lingering bass and drawn out vocals, the presentation of the Augustin Teboul S/S 2017 collection is re-imagining mermaids as punk rock princesses at the Berlin Fashion Week. The models' hair is slightly wet and swept back, as it would be after a swim in the ocean. Torn leggings and fish net tights remind of mermaids caught in fishermen’s nets. Frilly applications on hats paired with round sunglasses look like bathing caps. Cut-outs, holes and slashed fabrics give the collection a certain edge, vibing off a careless attitude. A lot of exceptionally short mini skirts and dresses dominate the runway.
Sheer black shirts are worn over leather panties. Leather bodies with frills and mesh tutus remind of a punk rock princess style. A provocative touch is added by models wearing tiny crop tops or nothing at all underneath loose androgynous jackets. As always Augustin Teboul loves to display the dark and grungy side of fashion, and yet again does not stray from the label's favourite colour black, with only a bit of white, blue and red here and there. The black is paired with square patches and patterns of different kinds of sparkles, sequins and studs. There are sparkly scarves and sparkly socks in patent leather loafers – sparkles everywhere. The collection is the perfect androgynous combination of frazzle and dazzle, a glittering glory of grunge.
MBFW: Lala Berlin Spring 2017
Lala Berlin’s Spring 2017 collection, called Hypnotic Nights, is presented in the highest penthouse in Berlin, among an exclusive group of 200 invitees. The looks are energetic and vibrant, made of delicate silks and with elegant pleats. it’s colour palette a mix of red, orange combined with black, blue and brandy-coloured garments. The presentation saw Heike Makatasch en Laberenz at the turntable, opening up the dance floor for the guests. Leyla Piedayesh said that then she saw the view of Berlin for the first time, a completely new perspective stretched before her. “I was so touched, I didn’t want that feeling deprived from anyone.”
GOETZE SS17 Collection
Boyish youth, styled manhood, and reworked casualwear - GOETZE's SS17 collection conveys all of these sensibilities. The collection adapts the forms and silhouettes taken from athletic apparel, while placing emphasis on the functionality that materials like mesh and poplin bring to the clothing. The tone of the pieces reinforce the light and active nature of the apparel, with palettes of sea blue, sky blue, navy and anthracite that note the light, active touch specified for this collection. Founded by Sissi Goetze following her completion of her studies at Central St. Martins in London in 2011, and shortened to GOETZE in 2016, GOETZE was formed around an ongoing exploration of unique formal and casual sensibilities within essential menswear items. Restraining her output to variations of men's shirts, pants and jackets, each collection considers the creative potential within limitation, utilizing material in a gestural nod towards both functional aesthetics and minimalist design. GOETZE fuses historical precedents of menswear with everyday aspects of contemporary masculinity, taking inspiration from both athletic apparel and casual wear.
Willow Smith for CHANEL Eyewear Fall 2016/17
As actress and singer, Willow Smith is the face of a new generation and has now been chosen as the face of the Fall/winter 2016/17 campaign for CHANEL eyewear. The images and short videos for the campaign are shot by Karl Lagerfeld, with a minimal black and white focus. Dressed with jewels from the Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection, Willow shows her bubbly personality for the new eyewear collection, which features optical designs and sunglasses.
PFW: JULIEN DAVID SPRING 2017
“This season I was inspired by the inertia of waves from sound to ocean and creative waves”, says Julien David on his Spring 2017 Menswear collection, taking its inspiration from comfortable tropic summer days in Japan. The colour palette includes pastel pinks, blue and green silks highlighting the infamous Hokusai print. Trousers and sleeves are printed with texts like ‘Wave Length’ and the layered styling, accessorizing jumpers with belts across at chest height, which gives the collection a grungy feel.
PFW: LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2017
Going back to its blueprint and claiming its identity. In Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2017 collection, they return to the brand’s heritage, drawing inspiration from Africa in rich textiles and prints with a colour palette led in Savannah-bleached tones. We find a dose of London Punk in the garments, in the use of ‘dog-collars’, mohair and transparent rubbers. The collection has the characteristic elegance and expertise we’re used to from Louis Vuitton. Visual artist-duo Jake and Dinos Chapman have for the second time collaborated with Louis Vuitton by creating four animal-like prints, used on the mohair jumpers.
BALLY Men's Spring/Summer & Women's Resort 2017 Collection
Bally presents a sense of nostalgia in the spring/summer and women’s Resort 2017 collection. A retro sense and memories of disco platforms at the gym is what Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs have captured. The juxtaposed reality of the 80s “Teen Wolf” (1985), Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Outsiders” looking to belong in this campaign. An edelweiss flower on a Western shirt and playful archive prints come to life. This is enriched with David Hicks bold colours on Japanese kimonos and leisure suits for everyday. Bally expresses the happy grunge and the MTV generation.
PFW: MAISON MARGIELA SPRING 2017
We enter a world where masculine fragility is not considered a weakness. The Maison Margiela Spring 2017 collection includes variations of the two-piece suit, exposed stitching creating a sleek finish and rounded coat shoulders. Crossings of shirts from contrasting fabrics are blended together, whilst also showing a mixture in colour palette; Sepia tones are shown next to technical shell tops and knits, which awaken an active elegance. The looks are completed with lace-up boots and square-toed loafers. Looking through its own archive, a selection of seven garments are recovered and included from collections between 1999 and 2005.
Antony Morato Film Premiere
Antony Morato, the contemporary, Italian fashion brand with international and cosmopolitan terms drew attention to the world of cinema. The brand has partnered with L'Uomo Vogue, the reliable source for men's fashion and lifestyle on the short film "We have to be courageous" presented in Milan which also participates on Fashion Film Festival Milano.
The 5-minute short film, produced by K48, tells of the growth of self-consciousness and the desire with a hedonistic expression representing even one's own identity. The conclusion of the film leaves a feeling of uncertainty back as it represents the change and the final separation of an already defined world. The appearance of the Don Giovanni is finally ready, almost as if he would say, "Here I am". The film is directed by Elisa Fuksas and the viewer can watch the exceptional performance of the lead actor Alessandro Roja.
The story approaches the Antony Morato campaign "I am who I am" on a vivid and lively way. The brand, founded by Lello Caldarelli sends a strong message and a claim, addressed to the contemporary man. Without risk of misunderstanding he realizes that he can understand and interpret his own freedom. This requirement is universal and shows more than ever that Antony Morato invites us to it.
MFW: PRADA SPRING 2017
“This idea of traveling, sharing, joining different cultures interests me”, Miuccia Prada reveals when the Prada Men’s Spring 2017 show has finished. This vision is clearly noticeable in the collection, as every model wears tribal hiking sandals and carries a heavy backpack down the runway. Active-wear is big this show season and Prada is not staying behind, as their collection includes bulging parkas and rain pants. It felt different for the brand, but it worked out brilliantly. Miuccia Prada added “I’m kind of finished with vintage”, therefore explaining the new direction the collection has gone into.
MFW: MONCLER SPRING 2017
Thom Browne has created a collection inspired by American Boy Scouts and camping for the MONCLER GAMME BLEU SPRING/SUMMER 2017. The presentation is divided in three groups, one in all-khaki, a group mixed with checkered forest green, brown and whites and a formal group primarily wearing brown and navy. The tailored pieces are made in technical fabrics the French brand is known for, with details created via mediums such as laser cut and thermo bonding, which gives the active sportswear/ outerwear collection a functional aesthetic.
MFW: PHILIPP PLEIN SPRING 2017
The PHILIPP PLEIN Spring 2017 collection takes it inspiration from American Basketball, complete with stylized basketball shorts and shoes, transitioning into embroidered denim, leather jackets and bombers. The German designer teamed up with Swarovski to embellish the collections sportswear pieces, creating a glam active wear collection. Starting off with hints of orange, the collection develops into solely black and white, and later back to red hues. Rapper Busta Rhymes performed, making it a real authentic PHILIPP PLEIN experience.
MFW: FENDI SPRING 2017
“Sun and fun”, Silvia Venturini said of the collection post-show. Rebuild is a Mediterranean villa, which results in an airy and fresh feel to the Fendi Spring 2017 collection. The garments’ details are whimsical and dynamic, the colours pleasant and lively. Pequin stripes are incorporated in a new way and the models are styled with travel bags and backpacks which indicated to the fun summer theme. Fendi has introduced its first men’s eyewear collection for this show in collaboration with Safilo.
Theory l Pre-Fall 2016
When Theory presents the new Pre-Fall 2016 women and men collection this means that this winter has it all. Apart from the always smart and safe black, it also introduces more colours such as red, yellow, grey, burgundy and khaki. The collection is smart chic with coats, shirts, pullovers, light trousers and pleaded skirts and tops. Theory presents white as one of the winter colour in skirts, trousers, coats and shirts that gives the collection an extra elegance. The menswear collection is more focused on black, brown and grey in trench coats, coats, trousers and blouses. Jeans are always on fashion matched with smart jumpers. Theory introduces leather as the winter’s trend with the legendary biker’s jacket.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
LC:M Craig Green
London born Craig Green showed his first collection for LCM through Fashion East and Topman’s initiative MAN in 2013. Now, three years later he is an established name on the London Collection Men’s schedule and recent winner of the BFC Menswear Fund. The bold new collection opens with fawn colours, transitioning into quilted jackets with rich prints and closing with black and white garments. Cords tied through eyelets are detailing elements and the colour-blocking trend is beautifully incorporated. The Spring 2017 collection also exposes some flesh. A slit coming just above the knee on wide-legged trousers, as well as some backless pieces, gives the collection a sharp edge. Added in the collection is a Scout scarf, which Green describes as a ‘symbolism of belonging to something.’
MAN, the support scheme for emerging menswear designers, launched by non-profit initiative Fashion East and sponsored by TOPMAN, gave platform to three new designers this LCM season. First up is Swedish newcomer, Per Götesson, who showed his graduate collection at the Royal College of Art just the day before. Models are dressed in a functional and casual collection, primarily oversized denim jeans, accessorized with metal key-chains.
Second up in line is Feng Chen Wang. The collection has elements of the sporty trend coming through, with details like the string cord and the use of technical nylons. When speaking to Dazed about her inspiration for her functional, tied and connected collection, she explains to be inspired by how all her friends are connected.
Closing the MAN show is Charles Jeffrey. The runway is covered in roses and flower petals, where models walk down and show off the collection, blending club scene with the Elizabethan era. As founder of LOVERBOY, Jeffrey has gender fluidity as centre point in his establishments. This is present in this collection too, exposing new silhouettes and long, fake nails.
Future, Present, Past, The Strokes Travel Back In Time
It has been pretty quiet from the American indie-rock band front in recent years, however the wait for new music has come to an end. The Strokes last studio album Comedown Machine was released back in 2013, but they decided to cut off from social media and not promote the album, with only a few performances here and there. The new EP Future, Present, Past is available now for you to enjoy. Lead singer Julian Casablancas debuted OBLIVIUS on his own radio show, Culture Void on Sirius XMU. The extended play consists of four tracks, three original new songs and a remix of OBLIVIUS, by Moretti. The band completely distinguish themselves from what’s currently on the hit lists and sticks to what works for them, which results in a moody but balanced album soothing for the upcoming summer. It’s a satisfying new addition to your vacation playlist.
EA7 Emporio Armani For Olympics 2016
The Rio Olympics and Paralympics are only a few months away and it’s just been revealed EA7 Emporio Armani will be the official outfitter of the competing Italian Team. The new advertising campaign has now been launched, shot by Serge Guerand, in the beautiful Canary island Fuerteventura. Models Penny Lane and Pietro Boselli show off the sportswear line in a series of striking images, posing energetic and with their passion for the sport sparking from their eyes. The collection also features accessories and eyewear, which is available for purchase at Emporio Armani stores.
Dior Cruise Ready-To-Wear 2017
Blenheim Palace in London is home of the Dior Cruise Ready-to-Wear 2017 collection, creatively led by designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux since Raf Simons' departure late last year. The brand chose to showcase in the UK partly because Dior has recently opened a flagship store on Bond Street.The collection is inspired by post-war attire of the upperclass and the idea of wanting to discover newness. We see silks with rich prints, knits and typically British tweeds walk down the fox-themed runway, with models wearing heavy eye shadow and slicked back hair. The foxes also recur on the garments as well as zebra stripes and giraffe prints. With accessories made from materials such as stones and dark wood, the collection feels very much influenced by nature. This is the third time Dior shows their collection at the Blenheim Palace, the first two times dating back to the 1950s.
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
amfAR's 22nd Cinema Against Aids Gala in Cannes
The 22nd annual Cinema Against AIDS gala in Antibes, France, raised more than $30 million for amfAR's AIDS research programs and the search for a cure. The undisputed highlight of the evening’s live auction was a stunning 18½ foot tall sculpture by Jeff Koons, titled Coloring Book which was sold for over $13 million. The star-studded black-tie event, held at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, France, during the Cannes Film Festival, was presented by Harry Winston and Bold Films.
Event Chairs included amfAR Chairman Kenneth Cole, Harvey Weinstein, Jake Gyllenhaal, Carine Roitfeld, Isabella Rossellini, Frances McDormand, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Abhishek Bachchan, Diane Kruger, John C. Reilly, Michel Litvak, amfAR Global Fundraising Chairman Milutin Gatsby, Len Blavatnik, Nayla Hayek, Remo Ruffini, and Vin Roberti.
Other guests in attendance, many of whom participated in the evening’s auction included: Antonio Banderas, Matt Bellamy, Andrea Bocelli, Adrien Brody, Marion Cotillard, Xavier Dolan, Lily Donaldson, Jourdan Dunn, Michael Fassbender, Tom Ford, David Gandy, Melissa George, Madalina Ghenea, Jake Gyllenhaal, Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, Lewis Hamilton, Eva Herzigova, Chanel Iman, Kendall Jenner, Harvey Keitel, Karlie Kloss, Zoe Kravitz, Karolina Kurkova, Adriana Lima, Eva Longoria, Sienna Miller, Petra Nemcova, Rita Ora, Barbara Palvin, Michelle Rodriguez, Irina Shayk, Paolo Sorrentino, Dita von Teese, Mario Testino, Robin Thicke, Chris Tucker, Alicia Vikander, Binx Walton, and Lindsey Wixson, among many others.
Some of the pieces auctioned was an outstanding work by one of the world’s best known artists, legendary Colombian painter and sculptor Fernando Botero. Bollywood star Aishwarya Rai Bachchan introduced an exquisite bespoke diamond necklace, designed exclusively for amfAR and Cinema Against AIDS by Harry Winston. A work by Banksy, the world’s most famous and mysterious street artist, was donated to the auction by Leonardo diCaprio from his private collection and sold for over $1 million
A stunning feature of the evening was a Black and White fashion show curated by longtime amfAR supporter Carine Roitfeld. The dazzling collection featured one-of-a-kind looks, half in black, half in white, from the world’s most celebrated fashion houses. Participating designers included Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Gucci, Prada, Céline, Balmain, Giorgio Armani, and Tom Ford, among others.
The unforgettable evening also featured live performances by internationally renowned musical acts. British pop sensation Charli XCX kicked off the evening. Mary J. Blige got the crowd on their feet with a performance of her classic hit “Family Affair.” The evening culminated in an electrifying performance by the rock band Imagine Dragons.
Drykorn Fall/Winter 2016
A touch of 60’s, 70’s and 80’s lays in the new men and women’s collection of Drykorn. The firm takes us a fashion trip back to the past with its new Fall/Winter Collection 2016. Inspired by the Detroit of the 70’s the men’s collection has large collars, broad lapels and flaps that come to the fore once again. Soft materials like velvet, corduroy and wool jerseys play an important role and emphasize the look of the natural, warm color shades like beige, cognac and rust. As an opposite pole to the unconventional ready-to-wear production, the focus of the collection lies on authenticity and heritage styles. Robust lambskin jackets, cut off raw denims and corduroy shirts cater for a solid work wear style. The collection focus on the silhouette and oversized jackets are combined with low crotch pleated pants. In the women’s collection Fall/Winter 2016 the highlight is the comeback of the bohemian chic with a focus on playful mix of colour, material and pattern. The ‘’Mod Look‘‘of the 60’s also celebrates a revival with mini dresses and skirts in leather in combination with high neck blouse and biker jacket. In terms of colours orange is the new black and delicate grey and pure white can be found in the classic patterns like glen check, herringbone or pinstripe. The ‘’Bad Taste Spirit‘‘of the 80’s comes to life again. Sportswear unites with glitter and it is paired with wild leopard patterns in indigo blue and dark green. Waist?high is the name of the game when it comes to military and skinny pants. Draperies, Victorian elements and little details cater for the romantic twist that is presented in velvet, lace and nappa leather establishing the ‘’Gothic’’ trend. DRYKORN represents premium processings and high quality materials. The Credo is: perfection of the nonchalance which is reflected in every production step.
Miron Zownir’s Shots Of The City Sidelines At Hamburg’s House Of Photography
The city has served an inexhaustible source of inspiration for many an artist, but few have managed to capture it quite like Miron Zownir, for all its raw impulses and capability of fostering superb loneliness amidst a sea of people. For over thirty years, Zownir has been baring a side of society some would rather not see, portraying the seemingly parallel worlds of outsiders – those resigned to the fringes of society for their idiosyncrasies, aberrant behaviour, or merely ceding to the so-called dark desires of the human psyche. And Zownir does not merely expose them; his subjects seem to forbear the flatness of the photograph, pervading every inch of the frame with an intensity of emotion, whether that be pain, passion, defiance or downright decadence. In black and white, his sidelined subjects are afforded the poignancy they deserve, proximately framed and charged with truth. Berlin, London and the cities of a post-communist Eastern Europe provided fertile ground for Zownir’s uncensored stare, but it is his spirited renderings of the seditious New York sidelines which form the focus of the Deichtorhallen Hamburg’s latest exhibition, SCHLES SILVERTHORNE ZOWNIR.
Curated by Ingo Taubhorn, the collection calls together three figureheads of their field, each of whom have overthrown our consciousness with their radical experience of an urban underworld; in the House of Photography, Ken Schles, Jeffrey Silverthorne and Miron Zownir express with remarkable richness the subcultures of the city, its delights and dangers offered up as equally delectable symptoms of a life well-lived, albeit, ever resigned to the shadows, until now….
SCHLES SILVERTHORNE ZOWNIR will be on display at the House of Photography, Deichtorhallen Hamburg, from May 5th – August 7th 2016.
BOSS Pre-Fall 2016
Rigorous, precise, focused. Natural, but abstract. Luxurious – and classic. With the Pre-Fall Lookbook 2016, Jason Wu has unveiled another cutting edge collection that comprises sophisticated looks with a modern and noiseless message. Whether it's with the slim coat, the A-line skirt or the pant, Wu re-engineers new classic into a contemporary wardrobe for the BOSS woman.
Business and leisure are balanced out equally, with a Hitchcockian flair contrasting the image of sportswear. As often, Wu is keen to incorporate a flair of menswear and does so in applying metal rings and fastenings, which simultaneously suggest a vibrant and energetic feel. Even if this collection is a red carpet for simplicity and urbanity, Wu still does not cease to go down a more lighthearted route and inserts floral patterns that in their assembly allude to camouflage.
The key element of functionality is furthermore not only highlighted in Bauhaus inspiration but also in flat shoes and other understated accessories. It's rigorous, it's precise, it's focused – BOSS just knows how to wrap a collection.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016
A trip inside the mind of Karl Lagerfeld must feel like an hourlong guided tour through the world's biggest museum. His creative mind, or the ones behind it, is like an infinite archive with multiple crossings, shortcuts and junctions. Therefore, it is no surprise that even after decades, the maestro still finds a way to put a spin on the very, very classic brand that is CHANEL. Still, a CHANEL presentation these days sometimes holds more surprise in the setting than in the fashion on display. This time, though, Lagerfeld stepped away from themes and backdrops and onto the “real” runway. On there, he showed classic CHANEL elements, from tweed-tops to tartan trousers, and one everlasting classic accessory: the impeccable, traditional CHANEL pearl necklace, worn in multiple layers on numerous looks. Topped off with a French twist on a bowler hat, it's maybe the accessories that deem this collection contemporary. However, the choice of colors also checks off everything that is on the line for this season: starting off with shades and combos of pink, the collection then moves onto dark blues and greys, to a range of beige and nude tones, only to end with a – what else- classic rendition of black-and-white looks. That trip to Lagerfeld's mind really must be quite the voyage. Where do we sign up?
LOEWE Fall/Winter 2016
Just like in their latest advertising campaign, earthy colors and monochrome looks dominated the LOEWE runway at their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation. The inexplicable, elusive mind that is Creative Director Jonathan Anderson always seems so put together a distinctive and strict aesthetic in which every garment is utterly different from the other, but in which everything blends perfectly like grains in the sand. At Paris Fashion Week, the Spanish label thus unveiled a collection of various flowing silhouettes, with dresses and skirts being the most prominent pieces. Paired with either asymmetric or body-tight tops and contrastingly oversized coats, they brought to life a modern look that speaks to women from Barcelona to Beijing equally. The cool, sophisticated combinations are interrupted by this season's go-to accessory: purses disguised as cat and mask-faces dangle around the models' neck, giving a funny twist on the tourist-style money bag usually very wisely banned from fashion. LOEWE though quite literally let the cat out of the bag, and the result will have the fans purr in pure bliss.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2016
At Paris' École de Medecin, the presentation of Lemaire's Fall/Winter designs had a clean spirit to it. Not, as one may conclude, as in white doctor gowns and sterile objects (due to the choice of location), but clean in a sensual and stylish way, paying tribute to past decades with only so little references. This collection was basically just black-and-cream white, there is no other way of putting it. Once every now and then, a splash of color in a shoulder strap bag or a boxy, grey jacket may interrupt the monochrome, but overall, Christophe Lemaire and his work/life-partner Sarah Linh-Tran stuck to the simple aesthetic. There were button rows that remind of dotted lines in documents, subtle pleats and not-so-subtle puffy sleeves on knitted sweaters (here chimes in the Elizabethan reference). Limitedly messy hairstyles emphasized the nonchalant attitude, while the models' strut down the catwalk still emphasized the core confidence to this collection. For Lemaire, this Fall/Winter 2016 is wrapped, or, to put it medically, operation complete.
Draw the Curtain: Monsieur Hotel Paris
When booking a stay in a nice hotel, who doesn’t feel like taking up a new identity? We’re thinking more role-play than secret service. Doesn’t a hotel stay feel like of taking part in a play? The lobby your stage, the room the backstage area? The Monsieur Hotel in Paris certainly has this idea in mind. Situated in the heart of the Rive Gauche, it is surrounded by a range of theatres, from the Mathurins to the Olympia just the throw of a stone away. The hotel’s character and design were highly inspired by the French playwright Sacha Guitry, whose spirit is set to “live on” in the hotel's 29 rooms and two suites. Maybe Guitry was also inspiration to the name, but the “Monsieur” naturally doesn’t only welcome male guests. In fact, the rooms are individually designed to make it appealing for both of the sexes. Draw the velvet curtain in the “Front Rows” or sleep heavenly in the “Gods” rooms. Whatever role you take on, we’re sure that your stay at the “Monsieur” will earn you a whole lot of applause.
Etro Fall/Winter 2016
On Friday, February 26th, models stepped out on Etro’s flower carpet to impress. Floating over the red-and-brown floor decor, they sported the latest Fall/Winter designs, which were a true reference to Etro’s signature looks. It was not only the carpet that alluded to flora, but so did the garments. Mixed with Etro’s typically tribal and Aztec patterns, they composed a true and traditional collection while staying focused on new twists. For instance, there was this season’s it-item in outerwear, the floor-length coat, there were shiny velvet jackets, there were even Scottish-looking checks. Etro is back on track and leading it at the same time, with new ideas quite literally revolutionizing tradition. It is in in moments like these that one is completely satisfied with getting what was expected – because it just made everything even better.
Costume National Fall/Winter 2016
Cool, cooler, Costume National. With the latest Fall/Winter collection, the label presented designs that spread the perfect interaction of casualty and precise tailoring. Effortlessly cool looks dominated the runway at Milan Fashion Week, formed by loose silhouettes and descending pleats and ruffles. The go-to item this season is the coat, and at Costume National, it comes in various shapes and styles. Whether it’s the short-and-slouchy version, the flower-embellished overcoat or the green trench: with Costume National’s Fall/Winter range, you’re covered on the coat side. Below the outerwear, ladies can sport oversize blouses combined with tailored blazers and pleated knee-high boots. Look for something more fancy? Go for the all-red velvet ensemble or the full-on print combination. You don’t need to worry, anyway. With Costume National, you’re cool; you’re dressed for success. Always.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
JOSEPH F/W 16/17
For season Fall/Winter 16/17, JOSEPH went in for the big game. Big hair, big silhouette, accumulated in a look that is as eclectic as a freely assembled art exhibition. Freedom, in both the inspirational and creative way, is a base to the latest designs. Motifs incorporating the nostalgic idea of freedom, such as a hand, an eye and a bird, are knitted into sweaters. This season for JOSEPH means badge, patch and collect: applications are randomly sewn onto the pieces, bringing to life the unique personality that is envisioned by this collection. JOSEPH wants to highlight an anti-conformist look that each wearer can assemble in a puzzle manner. Therefore, leather corsets are fastened over shearling jackets, British jacquards are cut on the reverse to expose floating thread and trousers are laced up, buttons intentionally mismatched. This season, JOSEPH went in for the big game, and whatever you make out of it for yourself: the big entrance is all yours.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016
While in recent days, Calvin Klein’s strategy revolved strongly around their celebrity-studded “mycalvins” campaign, at their NYFW fashion show, it was back to business instead of bras. On the runway, creative director Francisco Costa presented a mixture of sleek, precise looks and loose silhouettes. The classic suit for the Calvin Klein lady is reinvented through the ever-present crossover with menswear influences. Nevertheless, Costa puts emphasis on urban eroticism in form of light and sultry shift dresses with deep v-necks and unraveled hems. Besides that, proportions undergo distortion, with broad shoulder cuts contrasting slim waists. Next to its urban sexiness, this collection has seriousness to it, with dark tones leading the color palette and faux fur collars, lynx and skunk prints adding a grown-up feel. In the eyes of Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein accumulates both luxury and wilderness, and they certainly melt together in inserted stones and geodes, adding an unexpected twist to numerous dresses. Naturally, famous faces lined the front row at this presentation, but with a collection this convincing, the center of attention is nothing but the dress.
New Kohei Nawa Exhibitions
Japanese artist Kohei Nawa, featured in ZOO's issue No. 49, will be presenting his artworks in new exhibitions spanning across the globe. Opening of March 5 in German town Karlsruhe, Nawa will show his installation work "Force" as part of the exhibition "New Sensorium – Exiting Failures Of Modernization" at the ZKM exhibition space. The group show features mainly Asian artists that are defined by the traditional meaning of Asian: the Eurosian continent minus Europe. It pays attention to new realms of sensoriums, evolved through the ongoing developments in digital culture and the sweeping effects of globalization. Many thousand kilometers east, a screen presentation of Nawa's performance work "Vessel" will be held in Tokyo's Media Ambition 2016 on March 16. Furthermore, Nawa's pieces will be shown on the storefront of German jewelry store Niessing in Osaka. Here, Jewelry will be staged upon various sculpture pieces created by Nawa based on the theme “CELL / FORCE”.
Rodarte RTW Fall 16
Even though there was no birthday song (at least not on the catwalk) in New York City, it is time to congratulate Rodarte on 10 years of success in the fashion business. The sister duo celebrated their first decade of design with their latest Fall/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week. For Kate and Laura Mulleavy, though, celebration doesn’t come in form of cakes and birthday songs. Their personal birthday cake were the garments presented on the runway. And if there is one theme to be picked, it’s ruffles, ruffles and…ruffles. Applied vertically or horizontal, diagonal, with a straight edge or in shaped waves: the ruffles embody the fantasy element in Rodarte’s designs. Those elements, to be noted, don’t drift away into dreaminess, though. The secret ingredient to this birthday cake is the casual sincerity, the mix-up of fantasy elements and street-ready pieces. For that, all the Mulleavy sister need are their usual rich palette of materials, this season completed by some fur, used in their balanced level of experimentalism and stylish design. Happy Birthday Rodarte, let’s hope your creators get some time to enjoy some actual birthday cake.
McQ F/W 16/17
While the world was buzzing with talk about fashion shows and the upcoming award ceremonies, Thursday, February 11th, 2016, saw the revelation of McQ’s new F/W 16 Digital Presentation. The date of the reveal lined up with Alexander McQueen’s sixth death anniversary, to which the brand had paid tribute before in a post on their instagram. It is also on their social media and website that McQ chose to release the campaign in an all-round digital presentation. Consisting of documentary photography by Caroline Södergren, character studies by Jack Davison and short films by Shorna Osborne, the campaign aims to highlight the collection at every angle. The designs themselves combine the brand’s rebellious attitude with ready-to-wear style that lets each item unfold in its own measure. Womenswear is influenced by Japanese culture, in particular the dance and strip clubs of Shinjuku, Tokyo, in the 1970s and 80s. Leather is a central player in motorcycle jackets and capes. Another reference to Tokyo is made in floral prints that were mainly inspired by Japanese kimonos. The go-to accessoire for the McQ Misses is the overknee boot, available in various colors and materials. Surprisingly, this is where the collection interlocks with the menswear designs: Mister McQ also sports overknee footwear, only for him laced up and thick-soled as in 90s culture. The menswear designs furthermore reference Phyllis Galembo's book MASKE which revolves around African tribe culture. In honor of fusing new and old worlds, McQ takes this to intertwine African patterns with its heritage Scottish Fairisle tartan. The McQ man is both the grown-up realist and the adolescent free spirit. The world might be buzzing about many things, but from Thursday on, McQ is up on the agenda.
FEIT’s Man vs. Machine
On the left: thousands of rattling wheels set off sparks. Every move is programmed; every step repeats itself. On the right: a needle is slowly plunged into leather, pulling through a thread as if in slow motion. Man Vs. Machine, shoe brand FEIST’s new film endeavor, sets against each other fast-paced fabrication and traditional craftsmanship. Produced by Benjamin Millepied and directed by New York filmmaker Jack Riccobono, the movie splits the screen into two scenes, one showing the frantic processes of machine fabrication while the other displays dedicated, handmade manufacturing. The intention behind the clip is to highlight the rhythm, skill and artistry of crafting shoes by hand. In a world where the footwear industry is a billion dollar business with production numbers increasing every year, FEIT is ready to make a difference. Premiered at the New Museum New York, the movie relies on FEIST-founder Tull Price’s new belief of luxury: according to him, real luxury lies in responsibility and taking a stand rather than giving in to needless excess. Man Vs. Machine highlights this once more when at the end, the craftsman presents his finished work: a handmade boot shining in all its glory. Underlined with a fine classical music composition, the moment of reveal seems almost angelic. We’d say the score is pretty obvious: Man Vs. Machine, 1:0.
“Man Vs. Machine” was premiered at the New Museum New York along with a live presentation of manufacturing and the presentation of FEIT’s F/W 16 collection.
SIKI IM F/W 2016
For their latest F/W collection, label SIKI IM dug deep. Very deep. Deep in thoughts, deep in spirits, deep into philosohpy. Numerous questions lie beneath their latest designs, such as the evaluation of monsters and vampires. Is death the end? According to SIKI IM, it is certainly not. Our fear of being alone, fear of rejection, yes, in the end, the fear of our very selves is also a part of the thought-out inspiration to the IM 2016/17 collection. Naturally, these objections transfer themselves onto the clothing. A color palette of black, oxblood and aubergine draws a very clear allusion to mythic, spiked-teeth creatures. Fabrics from Italy are textured and rich, meaning luxurious cashmere (this season's material No. 1) and pants, woolen car-coats and blazers are combined with architectural leather in a variety of shapes. Furry tops and bottoms are not only monstrous in a good way but also functional for a cold winter. Along with the new designs, SIKI IM also showcases its extension line DEN IM. The prints featured in this collection were inspired by the German art and architecture school Bauhaus and the eponymous post-punk band. Linking both collections, images from Im's favorite Vampire movies were also printed on various garments. In the end, who isn't fascinated by it? The mysterious, the mythical, the dangerous, the tragic? We all have it in us. Just a matter of time until the night will let it out.
CTM Festival in Berlin
This week sees the midpoint of Berlin’s CTM festival, an international event for “Adventurous Music and Related Visual Arts”. This extensive title works quite well as an all-round description of what the 8-day festival has in store. The programme will line up performances by artists such as rapper Le1f, performing Thursday night, next to exhibitions, concerts and a discourse programme. 2016 already presents the 17th edition of the festival, which carries a new theme with each edition. This year, “New Geographies” is set to explore the collapsing borders and changing topographies in our world. Blurring lines in worlds such as gender and ethnicity, globalization and physically bound cultural identities find examination through the works of artists, special projects, commissioned works, lecturers and contributors. Dance or discuss the night away in Berlin this week – always on the verge of change. Sounds exciting, doesn’t it?
Residences by Armani/Casa in Miami
There are a lot of people in the world who love to wear Armani, but who actually gets to LIVE Armani? This round goes to Miami residents. Here, the fashion brand is building an apartment complex in cooperation with Casa Design, Dezer Development and the Related Group. 308 flats are being built on 60 stories, forming a tower designed by well-known architect César Pelli. Inside, the design solutions made by Armani/Casa Design Studio represent the Art Deco heritage of Miami and try to emulate its stellar and exclusive spirit. One central element in the works of the designs was the curved line. Its aim is to lead the viewer’s eye to the azure ocean and can even be detected in the design of the furniture. Apart from these very tastefully designed apartments, the complex will inhabit a, say, “distinguished” assortment of rooms on the ground and first floor, consisting of bar, private rooms, spa, gym, kids room, cigar room, wine room, game room and theater. While it may dawn upon the one or other what these seaside-escapes cost, there is no need for despair. As part of the sales area, the team has created a „show flat“ to give visitors an insight into the luxurious apartments. You know what they say, mi casa es tu casa.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
ETRO's Circle Of Poets
A poet by no means always has to be a lyricist. In a way, every form of art can depicted as poetry. Italian fashion label ETRO has therefore introduced their new project “The Circle Of Poets”, which sees artists from painters to filmmakers unite for a unique artistic exchange. As ETRO itself defines art as the very heart of the brand, it is with no surprise that the project includes an exhibition space for artists on the ETRO website. Although there is a selected circle of eleven elite “poets”, this art space is not an exclusive area for them. With the call-to-action “Are You A Poet?”, ETRO offers artists from around the world the chance to feature their works in an exciting collaboration, possibly even in local events and exhibitions. “The world within the circle spreads to meet other circles”, ETRO tells us, “now close your eyes and tell us what you can see”. Will do. Are You A Poet?
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Louis Vuitton's Time Travel: F/W 2016/17
Presented at the Parc André Citroën, Louis Vuitton revealed the Men's Fall/Winter collection as a ride with a time machine. With his seventh collection for the label, Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones once again dug into the archive of Vuitton and found inspiration from 162 years of brand history. Intertwined with the latest trends from today, he created a “new heritage”, a conversation between past and present. The past starts in the era of Art Déco, of the Dandy and aesthetics shaping the image of Paris. Naturally, the inspiration from the present is drawn from today. This dialogue between now and then finds support in an exclusive art display by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, titled “Liminal Air Space-Time”. A floating piece of fabric is set to underline the flow of time and to raise the viewer's attention to the dimensions of time and space. Additionally, the designs are also inspired by men of the past, who were originators of style even back then. Among these is Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé, who inspired jewellery pieces that riff on the edges of Dandy style. Kim Jones also extends this collection as a continuation of other Vuitton projects: a ribbon motif sketches out the words “Volez Voguez Voyagez” as a wink to the recent same-titled travel exhibition. Dandys, Art Déco and a flowing piece of art? To us, Louis Vuitton's time machine seems like a pretty exciting ride.
Laurèl FW 16/17
Congratulations are in order: designer Elisabeth Schwaiger celebrates her 20th anniversary with Laurèl and has all of 40 collections under her belt. The occasion translated into a throwback to the label’s core and a bright look ahead. “Say my name” is the tagline for the FW16/17 pieces with empowering garbs that bring out each woman’s personality. Schwaiger celebrates the modern woman as cool, calm and collected, as seen in an all white ensemble of turtleneck and pants, adorned with a leather vest or a number of velvet evening gowns straight from the Laurèl archives. Ultimate highlight? A formation of 4 models dressed in short mohair sweaters with names woven onto the back: Christy, Amber, Stella, Diane – credit where credit is due.
“The Stig” Vernissage In Munich
Friday, January 22nd, combined car and camera: ZOO’s Bryan Adams and Sandor Lubbe attended the opening of the vernissage “The Stig” at the Jaguar Land Rover Store at Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. The photos displayed are an extension to the exclusive editorial shot by Bryan Adams and art directed by Sandor Lubbe for our current issue No. 49. In reminiscence of the TV cult series “Top Gear”, the editorial was called “The Stig” after the mysterious series character. It visually combines high fashion with quality cars, presenting the model in a face-covering bodysuit by A.F. Vandervorst as well as the Jaguar XF. For the Munich vernissage, the photo shoot even came “alive”. Model Anna Meyer starred as the evening’s “Stig”, again referring to the pictures by posing in a full-on bodysuit. The free exhibition will be on display until February 21st, open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm.
Les Hommes F/W 2016 Collection
The men at Les Hommes are “born to be wild”. We hope that now, you have that road trip suggesting tune in your ear and imagine yourself on a roaring motorcycle. Seemingly, that’s what Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did. Their latest Les Hommes collection is a road trip on the back of a motorbike – with a gang of friends, a group of fellow bikers, all there to support. With these bikers as major inspiration, Les Hommes undergoes a journey from urban surroundings to the final destination of the African continent. Eventually, this also transfers onto the looks. Menswear classics from the world of motorcycles like performance fabric pants, perfecto and biker jackets and studded shirts mark the start of this on the go collection. They develop into colorful, almost pop looks with multi-material 3D geometries and a hint of couture inspiration. As the bikers reach Africa, the layering of Central Africa costumes comes through in layers of wools and oversize scarves. Accessories on the other hand stay simple: we travel without bags, only wearing studded gloves and bandanas. Ready for the ride? Hop on!
Dior Spring/Summer 16 Campaign
In fashion, time has no meaning. It is as swinging as a pendulum and as shifting as the arms of a clock. Therefore, the current releases of Fall/Winter collections go along with the releases for Spring/Summer campaigns. Get over the bizarre and focus on the facts: Dior has released their new Spring/Summer campaign. Typically charming and light-hearted, with these visuals, Dior stays soft and romantic. Dresses are equally airy or delicately pleated. Contrasting to that are black blazers conveying a serious attitude. In terms of delicacy, one has to have a look at the accessories: grosgrain necklaces are embellished with an “8” pendant that throws it back to the first Dior show in 1947. Less retro-reminiscence is found in the Diorever and Diorama bags, which remind of architectural lines and an innovative level of design. It might be time to reveal both Fall collections and Spring campaigns, but after campaigns like this one, we’re asking ourselves: Spring, why are you taking so long?
LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
“A redefinition of normality in classics” – Jonathan Anderson finds poetic words for the new LOEWE collection. His latest designs, revealed on Friday, January 22nd, are preceded by the corresponding advertising campaign. Model Jackson Wakefield is shot against another rather artistic backdrop: a sculpture by Paris artist M/M combines rugged rock-like formations with iridescent sections, which is set to reflect the character of the Fall/Winter collection. Wakefield poses in a blue overcoat with an eccentric piece of headwear. Redefinition of normality, it seems. To highlight the closeness to real “normality”, the campaign was distributed to 510 kiosks across all Paris as well as a billboard outside of LOEWE’s design studio at 76 rue Bonaparte. So, if you pop out in Paris to maybe catch the latest newspaper, an edition of ZOO or just a quick coffee, keep your eyes peeled for the new LOEWE campaign. Your idea of normality might just be redefined.
Versace Men F/W 2016
Versace certainly isn’t only known but also loved for their eccentricity. For decades, the creative minds behind the brand have proved to be unlimited in their creative innovation. With the latest menswear collection, introduced at Milan’s Men Fashion Week, Creative Director Donatella Versace presented yet another take on their anything-but-quiet attitude. For the latest designs, the Italian brand shot off into space. It’s Versace-on-the-mars with futuristic metallic looks, astronaut-inspired sweatshirts and astrological prints. Additionally, the collection features all that is in style on planet earth right now: tracksuits, MA-1 jackets, cropped leather jackets and, of course, just the right amount of denim. “The Versace man is a pioneer, his ambition as big as the universe. This is a collection for men who are totally real, totally bold and totally connected with the future.”, Donatella Versace commented. Houston, we don’t see a problem here!
Antonio Marras F/W16 Collection
Cowboys, Indians, gold prospectors, saloon girls. Tumbleweeds, dusty roads, no life in sight, apart from a few wild horses, lizards and the occasional mosquito buzzing near your ear. We’re thinking of the Wild West, thinking of Colorado, maybe, or some nameless town in the outskirts of the US. We’re wrong. Antonio Marras has taken the latest collection to the West, but it’s not western at all: the location in mind is in Sardinia. Illustrating the picture of a rural ghost town, the brand reinvented the motif of the Wild West by dislocating it to the Italian south. Inspired by this abandoned place in Sardinia, the designs feature a new take on the cowboy look with mélange sweaters, plaid trousers and a lot of checks. Intarsia shirts and velvet trousers dislocate the traditional idea of Wild West as much as the actual location. They are teamed up with patchwork jeans or denim overalls, biker jackets or floral jacquard fabrics. Colors range from moss, forest and military greens to red and mustard, forming an eclectic mix for a collection that can’t possibly be narrowed down to one definition. There is no need for definition, though, as we know, that with a Wild West in Sardinia, the things are not what we define them as anyway. Open your mind to new definitions. Antonio Marras certainly does.
Marni Men Fall/Winter 2016
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2016 is a swift motion between balanced elegance and subtle rebellions against clothing classics. On one hand, the brand presents soft and elegant silhouettes and suggests intimacy with this collection’s number one theme: wrapping. On the other hand, raw cuts also convey strength. Suits are still precisely tailored and the use of fur provides some texture. Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a fashion collection by the first impression. Caps and sneakers that contradict the elegance of the garments make another break in balance. The collection’s color palette adds in elegance and subtleness with blues, greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. We told you it was a swift movement. And with Marni, you just go along easily.
Louis Vuitton & UNICEF: #MAKEAPROMISE
Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign line-up reads like the database of a Hollywood agency. For their #MAKEAPROMISE campaign, the fashion house collaborated with UNICEF to raise worldwide awareness for children in need and captured various darlings from the entertainment industry. Shot by Patrick Demarchelier at the sixth UNICEF ball in Los Angeles, the likes of Paul Bettany, Nicole Kidman, Léa Seydoux, Xavier Dolan, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Mariah Carey and many more posed with the “Pinky Promise” gesture, a symbol to assure commitment to the campaign’s goals. These include not only raising awareness to children suffering from humanitarian catastrophes but also providing actual help. The brand will collect donations through an exclusively designed product: the Silver Lockit (wristband or necklace) will have 200 Euros from its total price of 500 Euros be forwarded to UNICEF immediately. The campaign is set to be a long-lasting project and was developed by Vuitton’s employees. Having put an increasing focus on social media in their recent campaigns, LV and UNICEF once again ask users worldwide to share their #MAKEAPROMISE moment with a #pinkypromise post as a continuation of the movement started by the testimonials. Promises might be given out like free samples these days, but there’s a feeling that this one might just be the change. Agree? Show your pinky. Promise.
Behind The Scenes with VETEMENTS: SS16
Fashion shows and collections are a nice thing, no doubts detected. Sometimes though, it’s even more interesting to peek behind the curtain, to have a behind-the-scenes view at the new collections. Blooming label VETEMENTS has decided to enhance their latest SS16 collection with a book that gives us exactly that: an unfiltered look at the designs, a behind-the-scenes, a personal close-up. Shot exclusively by Pierre-Ange Carlotti, the book features modern photography that depicts models as they check their phones, hug or take their position for the presentation. The artworks additionally feature a handful of detail shots, with the VETEMENTS shoe design being the center of attention more than once. The book will be published by London publishing house “Idea”, according to whom it is the largest photography book ever dedicated to a single fashion collection. 304 pages thick, it will be available at the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Paris from January, 23 onward. After that, stocks will go to Idea’s Dover Street Market locations in London, New York and Ginza, Tokyo. Ever wanted to be behind the scenes at a fashion show without having to leave your seat? Flip open the book and be ready to dive in.
Photos: Pierre-Ange Carlotti for Idea
Nasir Mazhar FW 2016
There are few things as fascinating and endless as the darkness. Its space of interpretation appears to be as vast as the darkness itself. Inevitably, the inspiration drawn from the dark is equally as tremendous. London designer Nasir Mazhar took this as a chance to dive into the deep and uncertain – and returns with his FW 2016 collection. His latest designs imagine a club world of individual characters, unified by darkness. A group that shifts in varying shades of black. Black - a color that ties together wide experiments in shapes and textures. Apart from this floating unison, each outfit stays an entirely separate project. Whether it’s strapped tops, crumpled looks or extraordinary headwear, Mazhir’s collection leaves as vast room for interpretation as the darkness. He recalls the creative freedom of his non-commercial, purely creative beginning. An approach that has been featured for the second consecutive season, as long-planned changes for the brand are set to be revealed. Who knows what they’re going to be – as for now, we only know that Mr. Mazhar sure loves a bit of uncertainty. Just like the darkness.
DIESEL Goes Emoji
The wink-face, the monkey, or rather just the thumbs up – what's your favorite emoji? Don't deny it, you have one. Emojis have become the new sign language, a universal communication system that everyone in the world can understand. Whereas other fashion labels in the past have taken this as an inspiration to paste the tiny symbols onto their clothing, DIESEL winks at us and creates their own emoji alphabet for their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. At first sight, the visuals are clearly an established fashion campaign – but with the slogan comes the twist. „It's complicated“ is adorned with little couple symbols while the expression „holy denim“ is reinforced by – of course – a praying emoji. For DIESEL Creative Director Nicola Formichetti, this campaign is a comment on our digital culture, the absurdities that define our on- and offline life. The digital world is more real than reality and has become a next-level superpower. No part is to be disregarded: the moving intimates visuals will also play on the world’s most important porn sites. The campaign's faces are also no strangers to the digital world and it's open-minded spectrum. Model Stav Strashko, who was born male but identifies as a girl, rejoices in the gender diversity now most prominent in the digital world. Singer Joe Jonas poses alongside his colleague Kiko Mizuhara and his band DNCE. Now where did Formichetti find this pool of beaming faces? Your guess is correct, online. We clap our hands to that. Not literally. The emoji. You know.
Valentino Takes To The Desert
Savanna. Vast landscapes. A sprinkle of trees, some wood branches scattered around. Amidst that: Valentino models. The brand broke out on a journey to the desert in their latest SS16 campaign. Shot by award-winning photographer Steve McCurry, the pictures show models pose arranged statically in the desert breeze, presenting the latest Valentino designs with the straight approach of reality. The images are set to be sincere and depict the exact moment they were taken. McCurry, who is renown for his reportages published in National Geographic, was chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for his exceptional ability to create stories through his images. With this collection, the two also want to stress the fact that fashion carries the ability to express the necessity and creation of new aesthetic and ethical perceptions.. “We strongly believe that garments have the ability to be a vehicle in affirming concepts and that fashion has the task of expressing new demands. That is why we wanted to carry the essence of this collection in the place where the idea was born.” That birthplace is Amboseli Park in Kenya, inhabited by the Masai people, who are also featured in some of the campaign’s shots.
Paul Smith for David Bowie: Blackstar
In celebration of the release of his latest album “Blackstar” on January 8th, David Bowie has cooperated with British brand Paul Smith for a set of limited T-Shirts. The designs feature the same logo as Bowie’s album, consisting of a prominent star in the middle, underlined by a row of smaller star fragments. Graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, who also collaborated with Smith and Bowie for the latter’s 2013 album “The Next Day”, has conceived the artwork concept. Available in black and white, the shirts are up on sale at paulsmith.co.uk from the day of the album release. Paul Smith was happy to renew the cooperation with Bowie after the two have been friends and collaborators for years. “I’ve known David Bowie for many years and have been fortunate to spend time with him in the past. I was delighted when he asked me to collaborate on the release of The Next Day in 2013 and equally delighted to work with him again on creating a T-shirt for the release of “Blackstar”, the designer commented. The album is Bowie’s 27th studio work.
David Bowie Shares Video for “Lazarus”
Bedridden, haunted, possessed: music icon David Bowie has released the video for his new single “Lazarus” prior to the release of his new album “Blackstar”, out January 8th. In the video, the singer is shown in bed in what appears to be a psychic ward. While wearing a tight blindfold, Bowie moves around the bed frantically while mouthing the lyrics. “Look up here man, I’m in danger”, he sings, “I’ve got nothing left to lose”. Later on, Bowie hints at his past days when shown in a striped full-on bodysuit while convulsively writing in a notebook. At the end of the video, Bowie retreats to a closet, seeming to have lost his mind. Resigning, his last lines are: “Oh, I’ll be free, ain’t that just like me”. January 8th will not only mark the release date of the artist’s 25th studio album, but also his 69th birthday. Watch the video for "Lazarus" below.
JIL SANDER Spring/Summer 16 Advertising Campaign
Naturalness and simplicity have forever been trademarks of German brand JIL SANDER’s collections. Now, the new visuals for the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign were revealed – and they make clear that the fashion label once again sticks to its status quo. Shot by Willy Vanderperre in Paris, the campaign shows models Lexi Boling and Jonas Gloeer presenting a collection defined by purity. Womenswear designs allude to one of this year’s key colours, an almost pastel blue that is used in the design of wrap dresses, shirt blouses and handbags. Other than that, the collection stays rather un-summery, featuring dark colors like a deep blue in a classic menswear coat or even black. If now the thought of “boredom” creeps into your mind, JIL SANDER is ready to talk back: especially the new women’s designs surprise with shoulder cut-outs and restyled coat collars. They might stick to their status quo, but JIL SANDER does it just right. Never change a winning team, people say. We agree.
Louis Vuitton Series 4 Campaign
Louis Vuitton has revealed the latest campaign “Series4” with another portfolio of visual art. The Spring/Summer 2016 visuals continue the brand’s system of releasing a variety of visuals, created by different artists, for each collection. This time, the focus lies on the fierceness of women: the heroine. To capture the spirit of the “new muses of a new era”, the brand teamed up with photographers Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber and Japanese video game creator Square Enix. The latter focused on what is most prominent in this particular campaign: the digital age. Enix captured “Lightning”, a character from the popular video game series “Final Fantasy”. Being the most unusual Vuitton model to date, the virtual character is the secret star among the other campaign testimonials, actors Jaden Smith and Doona Bae. “Lightning is the perfect avatar for a global, heroic woman (…). She is also the symbol of new pictorial processes. How can you create an image that goes beyond the classic principles of photography and design? Lightning heralds a new era of expression.”, Nicolas Ghesquière reflected on his choice. New year, new age, new era.
J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2016
For his latest Pre-Fall collection, British designer Jonathan Anderson has channeled his inner medieval expert. Most noticeable are the leg-of-mutton sleeves featured on woolen jumpers and a short, bolero-style leather jacket. Combined with voluminous trousers that also recall clothing from past centuries, the designer has successfully transferred our ancestors into the present. These references stand alongside a shiny, tracksuit-inspired combination with blown-up, patched pockets that make room for whatever today’s fashionista has to carry. The collection’s dresses once again are reminiscent of ancient clothing: they remind of habits, only to be transferred into the present by stitched pleats and ruffles. The key accessory comes in form of the “Pierce” bag, that without a doubt lives up to its name: the clasp indeed recalls certain body jewelry. Who knew that one day, medieval sleeves and piercings could go along so well? And for that, ladies and gentlemen, we have J.W. Anderson.
Copyright: J.W. Anderson
PHOENIX Restaurant Opens in Dusseldorf
Three architectural “slices” of post-war modernism have defined the skyline of Rhine capital Dusseldorf, Germany, for decades. The Dreischeibenhaus on the riverside is a classic. Now, it is set to also define the city’s culinary image. Dec 15th saw the opening of new restaurant “PHOENIX” in the building’s former telephone switchboard. The restaurant provides seating for 70 guests and another 30 in a private dining area. High-class cuisine is served in form of modern classics combined with seasonal dishes that ask to be tasted with a bottle from an international wine selection. Guests can enjoy the culinary extravaganza surrounded by a tasteful interior: materials, forms and colors from the historic building have been taken on and mount in a fresh design defined by the key color petrol blue. The combination of walnut wood and steel elements creates the perfect atmosphere for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Need a little more entertainment? The show kitchen area gives guests an insight into the making of their delicacies. Guten Appetit!
PHOENIX is open Tue-Sun nights and at lunchtime from January on.
Florian Roithmayr at Camden Arts Centre
December 12th, sees the start of the new Florian Roithmayr exhibition “with, and, or, without” in London. Set to run until March 6th, 2016, at the Camden Arts Centre, the exhibition focuses on material changes in the process of making. Those changes depict the interdependence of materials and surfaces as well as featuring the unexpected gestures that happen between mold and cast. For this particular exhibition, Roithmayr has dared what only few artists would consider themselves capable of: after having set up certain parameters, he handed over the control of the exhibitions configuration to the front of the house. This means that the placement of Roithmayr’s work will change daily at the “gusto” of another person. And to that, we can only tip our hats.
Volez, Voguez, Voyagez: a Journey With Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has quite literally dusted off the suitcases. For the exhibition “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez”, the French fashion house retraces its own history back to the very beginning in 1854. Presented in nine rooms at the Grand Palais in Paris, the exhibition contains travel items from archives and Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera. Viewers can even catch a glimpse at never before seen travel items from private possessions and institutions. Curated by Olivier Saillard, the exhibition takes place until the 21st of February 2016. For all those who can’t make it, the brand has released a unique and poetic movie exclusively for the exhibition, titled “Never Ending Story”. As for us, we wish that the journey with Louis Vuitton indeed would never end.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
Miami Beach Art Basel
Catherine Sullivan with George Lewis and Sean Griffin: Afterword via Fantasia (2015)
Louise Nevelson, Untitled, 1964. (Photo: Courtesy of © 2015 Estate of Louise Nevelson/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York)
In this year’s Miami Art Basel, 267 major galleries from all over North and Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa will exhibit some of contemporary and Modern art’s most significant pieces alongside the field’s most prominent emerging names. Kicking off on December 3, 2015, paintings, sculptures, films and more will display must-see pieces from the likes of Anselm Kiefer and Louise Nevelson, whilst the Rubell Family Collection “No Man’s Land: Women Artists from the Rubell Family Collection” will exhibit over 100 different female artists. Not only will there be dramatic installations and large-scale artworks, but the four-day-fair also presents a number of cultural events and performances, so make sure to check out the calendar!
The Art Basel at Miami Beach is on from December 3 to December 6, 2015.
Mircea Suciu -The deceiver - 2015 - 40 x 58 cm - oil, acrylic and monoprint on linen
RICHARD PRINCE, Untitled (cartoon), 2015, inkjet and silkscreen on canvas, 73 1/4 × 55 inches (186.1 × 139.7 cm) © Richard Prince. Photo by Rob McKeever
Versace opens in Berlin
In an exciting collaboration between Donatella Versace and the English architect, Jamie Fobert, Versace are opening a new concept store on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. Taking a piece of the label’s heritage to their new location, the 350 sqm boutique brilliantly fuses together values of traditional Italian architecture with the dynamic energy we see at Versace today. Providing the immaculate setting for the fashion brand’s prêt-à-porter collections and accessories are 9th century Byzantine church-inspired marble mosaics, dramatic brass features and modernistic perspex walls and shelves…As Donatella puts it, “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight”, whilst paying homage to the label’s past, present and future.
Céline opens Munich Boutique
With only a few stores out there, Céline is a label that prides themselves upon exclusivity. However, Munich shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief as the Parisian label has opened an accessories store in the Oberpollinger, one of Munich’s major department stores. The 54 sqm ground floor boutique boasts a range of bags, sunglasses and jewellery in an elegant interior design of onyx, ceramic and marble.
Zadig&Voltaire Launch Candide Bag
Named after the Voltarian hero, the brand new Candide Bag is destined for cult status. Complete with biker quilting, a stitched Zadig&Voltaire logo and an off-centre padlock, Cecilia Bönström has designed an urban piece that symbolizes the label – think Parisian chic meets edgy rocker. If this wasn’t enough, the made-in-Italy, striking bag is realized with Fall/Winter versions, solidifying its iconic status for the label. Available in three sizes and a chic selection of red, black and khaki suede and leather, the Candide Bag fits the needs of the modern Zadig&Voltaire woman. We want.
Bryan Adams Wins Bronze at Lead Awards 2015
We at ZOO Magazine are thrilled to announce that Bryan Adams has been awarded with the Lead Awards 2015 bronze medal!
This is for his 2014 portraiture series of the infamous Helmut Berger, who graced the pages of ZOO in issue number 43. when he allowed Adams to step into his life for a day.
What resulted from this opportunity was an intimate series portraying his enigmatic, larger-than-life personality that became highly critically acclaimed.
Now Germany’s most prestigious photography award ceremony, the Lead Awards 2015, was held last night when the news of his win was announced.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
Twice Light – New York
In marking the occasion of the 2015 NY Design Week, Italian artist Gianluca Vassallo conducted his photographic social project: Twice Light. Travelling around the city, the “one to watch” in his field of current emerging contemporary designers, Vassallo studied the relational impact of placing two strangers under a light for a full minute. This was with the aim of temporarily uniting them and thus forming small communities, whilst visually creating an extraordinary profile of New York.
These communities may have only lasted for a brief period, but the “Twice as Twiggy” lamp used throughout the project and erected in various public spaces in the city, is proving to be around for a lot longer. This is after achieving global success as a novel icon of interior design. Influenced by the plasticity of a fishing rod, the floor lamp was created in 2006 by Marc Sadler for the lighting company Foscarini, who now offer an enlarged version lighting up large spaces.
The “Twice Light – New York” exhibition, containing 120 images presented under the Twice as Twiggy lamp, is currently on show at the Spazio Soho, New York.
Rick Owens Unveils New Hollywood Boutique
With the aim to create something truly “Cecil B. Demille worthy”, a 450 square meter warehouse on La Brea, dating since the 1920s, has been renovated with the help of Owens’ long time architect-of-choice, Anna Tumaini.
Together they have created something outlandish and abstract, in a tribute to the epic biblical movies that Owens watched as a child. He claims these movies have proved huge to be huge sources of inspiration for him throughout his life with “doomed heroic purity in black and grey draped robes in huge, dusty marble temples”.
In representing this imagery, the La Brea boutique contains high ceilings, huge angular beams and the label’s signature fog glass tank, which by engulfing the room fills it with “a billowing ejaculation of fog every 5 minutes”. Not only this but there is also Owens’ own dramatic reinterpretation of a swimming pool that tantalizingly releases slow motion bubbles…The boutique is located in L.A. after all.
Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Undoubtedly the wackiest show of the season, Bernhard Willhelm is “celebrating randomness” with a banana themed collection. The motif is imaginatively plastered throughout the line, taking form in prints, cuts, silhouettes…Even in wired headdresses.
In a celebration of sexuality and identity the line is crafted without any regard to gender and is packed with bright tie-dye, jungle-style camouflaged prints and detailed embroidery.
Despite the initial shock factor, when you break down these looks you find they are surprisingly wearable. Deconstructed overalls, statement jackets and low crotch shorts display some clever reworking from Willhelm and prove that there is a method to his madness after all.
Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
A grassy meadow made up the runway of the heavenly romantic Moncler Gamme Rouge show. It was girlish renaissance in white lace florals, A-line skirts and cinched in waists.
Fencing sword accessories reminded of the sports undertone to the label whilst simplistic sneakers and metallic fabrics kept the collection of short silhouettes contemporary and engaging.
Giambattista Vallia has definitely kept his wits about him with this fresh, romantic look that will ultimately excite his Moncler girls.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Comme Des Garçons Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Ready-to-wear” is not a phrase that means much to Rei Kawakubo. The enchanting “witch” collection from the most anti-commercial label in fashion wass both baffling and exciting.
Silhouettes were magnificent, with ruffles and feathers galore. Shoes were stereotypically “witchy” pointed boots whilst deranged hair was coloured vivid red to offset the dramatic looks.
Luckily, Adrian Joffe was on hand to explain more, with the idea of witches referencing “Powerful women who are misunderstood, but do good in the world” – potentially also referring to Kawakubo herself.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There was a powerful message behind Rick Owen’s Paris show yesterday. What many would simply brandish as another bizarre fashion moment actually had a deep sentiment behind it, regarding the empathy and strength of women. Models twisted into unforgiving contortions were strapped to the torsos of other models, who walked the entire runway bearing such a weight in an Owens reinterpretation of a backpack.
The pieces themselves were beautiful and undertook new looks for the label. Beautifully tailored sleeveless duster jackets were worn over leather and canvas dresses, whilst crinkled raincoats and aviator-style jackets were mixed into the more typical range of Owen’s asymmetrical lines. His choice of footwear, being gladiator sandals or black leather boots, underlined the toughness of femininity and the inspiration behind the collection.
Gucci Opens New Milan Concept Store Celebrating Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
September 21st saw the luxury fashion label open a new concept store in Milan, showcasing the debut of Alessandro Michele with his Fall/Winter 2016 collection for Gucci.
The discreet look of the store welcomes customers to relax inside, perhaps upon on a plush velvet armchair beside a vintage Oriental rug, that contrasts with the harder surrounding features made of iron or marble. In keeping with the theme of their latest eclectic collections, the store draws attention to differences in combining traditional and modern, industrial and romantic.
This new, intimately ‘Gucci” look will be adapted to suit other other stores, respective to their locations.
Tornabuoni Art Gallery, London, Opens with Lucio Fontana Exhibition
Established by Roberto Casamonti inFlorence, 1981, the Tournabuoni Art gallery is unveiling a new gallery on Albermarle Street, London. The first week of October sees a rare collection of more than 40 works from the Argentinian Italian artist Lucio Fontana in the gallery’s opening exhibition. This being the late Fontana’s first appearance in London for over a decade, it is perhaps unsurprising that the Casamonti family own the largest collection of his works and will feature an overview of his most renowned series in the upcoming show.
According to Ursula Casamonti, who is running the London Gallery, the space differs from others in that its atmosphere offers one of comfort and intimacy, rather than the usual “white cube” viewers are so often affronted with when visiting galleries. Designed by Marco Casamonti, the gallery is a true family project, and features two spaces across two floors.
The Tornabuoni Art Gallery, London, opens its doors to the public on 8 October, 2015.l The Lucio Fontana Exhibition runs until 5 December, 2015.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Presentation at MFW
After debuting in New York Fashion Week, the women’s ready-to-wear Calvin Klein Collection featured in a Milan presentation along with select men’s and women’s Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Swimwear lines.
Francisco Costa presented the contemporary collections on suspended mannequins underneath a video of her women’s Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein Collection on the ceiling whilst accessories were displayed over black platforms. Kevin Carrigan presented the other lines using models posing as skaters in an abandoned pool complete with graffiti in Los Angeles, California.
There was a bit of a retro moment underlining the presentation, with the largely denim ensembles of Calvin Klein Jeans accessorized with snakeskin or suede boots and platform sandals. These vintage-inspired looks showcased denim one-pieces and A-Line skirts that in some cases appeared with a fade-effect or distressed.
Etro Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The classic romantic, Etro this season is packed with more of the label’s signature, intricate prints. Blending folk-style with Victorian-style florals in a beautiful palette, there are ruffles, lace paneling and a matching choker in any given look. Latticed boots appear amongst satin ballet pumps with embroidered paisley bags accessorizing.
With such a keen eye for the details and so much going on in any given look, Veronica Etro has created a world for us to get lost in with each, individual piece.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Peaches Releases New Album “Rub”
What else is in the teaches of Peaches? By the sounds of “Dick in the Air” and “Vaginoplasty”, it’s pretty much a sex-only subject. The notorious Canadian has announced her latest album, “Rub”, which features the likes of Kim Gordon, Simonne Jones and Feist. An electro mish mash of grimey, sexy synths and provocative lyrics, Peaches is back with her awesome new track “Light in Places”…Be warned however, with Empress Stah beaming a lazor out of her crotch throughout the video, it is not for the faint hearted… but then again who out of Peaches’ fanbase has ever been fainthearted.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
CHANEL Unveils Ephemeral Boutique in Rome
In place of its previous Via del Babuino boutique CHANEL has opened an ephemeral boutique, which is just steps away from its new boutique on the Piazza di Spagna, Rome.
The House welcomes “the masculine-feminine”, a concept treasured by Gabrielle Chanel. With a raw, minimalistic design of white floors and ceilings separated with oak, terrazzo and concrete modules, the understated boutique is appealing to both sexes.
Filling up the space will be the Ready-to-Wear line with accessories and the new, unisex, Boyfriend watch collection. There is also a fragrance and beauty section with a picturesque, Roman courtyard hidden behind the boutique.
Claire Barrow Spring/Summer 16 Collection at LFW
“Broken Machines”, reflects Claire Barrow’s prophecy of our society’s doomed fate. In a world primarily dependent on technology, the NEWGEN designer’s presentation reflects a world in which this entity, imperative to our being, breaks down and leaves us out in the cold.
Worn by a selection of models Barrow has personally sought after, the gender-blurred collection is a beautiful jumble of silks, lace-up leathers, power suits and her trademark scrawling prints.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Reminiscent of the label’s 1994 collection, which was immortalized thanks to the likes of Kate Moss on its runway, Francisco Costa has turned his head back to basics with the inspiration of a simple slip.
Adding a grunge twist, his sleek soft silk maxi dresses have split hems and loose straps, whilst lightweight, beautifully tailored long jackets with split cuffs billow over frayed-hem trousers. Mainly in a minimalistic neutral palette, Costa adds a touch of unpredictability to the label’s collection with the incorporation of floral print.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Schinkel Pavillion Host Solo Paul McCarthy Exhibition
As part of Berlin Art Week, US-American artist Paul McCarthy opens the Schinkel Pavillion’s new season with his confrontational, engaging current exhibition. Based on action and reaction, the viewer has no choice but to be included directly in the exhibition. Primarily concerning himself with life and death, waking and sleeping, presence and illusion, McCarthy uses the human body as a point of reference.
“Horizontal” (2012) is at the centre of the exhibition and is a synthetic, lifeless replica of McCarthy’s naked body. This feature signals the existential, the obsessive and the voyeuristic, whilst a special extended exhibition space of the Schinkel Pavillion hosts McCarthy’s sculptural video installation “That Girl T.G. Drawing Table – Drawing” (2011-2013).
In support of the Schinkel Pavilion, Paul McCarthy will also donate an artwork to the Schinkel Pavilion e.V., to be sold at a benefit auction on October 17, 2015, along with 52 other artists at Christie’s in London. Paul McCarthy’s solo exhibition runs from September 12 to November 11, 2015.
Miu Miu Tells a Coming of Age Story with “Les 3 Boutons”
“It’s playing a game with reality,” Varda says. “The game is called cinema”.
Agnès Varda, a.k.a The “Grandmother of the Nouvelle Vague” and the first female winner of Cannes Film Festival’s honorary Palme d’Or, has directed the tenth installment of Miu Miu’s “Women’s Tales” celebrating contemporary femininity and empowerment.
“Les 3 Boutons” sees Varda toy with ideas of classic fairytales versus modern-day reality, avoiding the clichés so often associated with girlhood. Introducing Jasmine Thiré as a typical, 14-year-old farm girl,she takes a break from milking goats upon the arrival of her postman. Avoiding the easy Cinderella tale, the inquisitve Jasmine dons her school uniform and begins a journey of self-discovery. Along the way, she gradually loses three buttons. Each of these seems to mark some element of change in her life, which can be applied to all of us, irrespective of age.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
The “Serial Classic” Exhibition Makes Space for Unique Learning Opportunity
The Fondazione Prada have announced that in dismantling their “Serial Classic” exhibition, a unique opportunity for study and learning will be on offer. Over the weeks that this process will take place in Rem Koolhaas’ impressive Podium, Milan, two external walkways will be erected alongside it allowing the public to witness the process. Additionally, groups of university students will be invited to enter the exhibition space and enjoy chatting with experts, technicians, conservators and other professionals.
The “Serial Classic” exhibition itself included more than 60 artworks acquired from other museums on a global scale. It focused on themes of serialities and copies, in regard to Greek and Roman sculpture. We commonly associate the classical period with notions of uniqueness and originality, however there is no other time frame in Western Art History that has seen imitations of other masterpieces been considered so importantly as in late Republican Rome and the Imperial age.
The project is presented from August 28, 2015 for around three weeks and includes daily research sessions.
Dismaland: A Place Where Dreams Don’t Dome True
It was over the weekend that the British street artist Banksy opened the gates to his bleak antithesis to Disneyland. Located in an abandoned swimming pool in Weston-Super-Mare, England, the adults theme park is packed with dark humour and political innuendos.
Upon entering, you are immediately searched for weapons and given a brisk pat down. In the park, sullen workers loiter about, wearing bunny ears and holding balloons captioned “I am an Imbecile”. Ponds brim with dead bodies and toy boats overcrowded with refugees, whilst another highlight includes a Cinderalla crash scene surrounded by Paparazzis.
Scattering the walls are Banksys’ street artworks, whilst he also enlists the help of 52 other artists, such as Damien Hirst and Jimmy Cauty.
“Dismaland” will be open for 36 days, until 27 September 2015.
Tiger of Sweden Jeans Pop-Up Store in Central Copenhagen
Just this afternoon Tiger of Sweden / Jeans opened a brand new pop-up store in the heart of Copenhagen. Landing in perfect timing for Fashion Week, it stocks the Tiger Jeans A/W 2015 collection for both guys and girls. This collection exudes the brooding edge that Tiger of Sweden Jeans prides itself upon, using a combination of “minimalistic expression with a dark, dreamlike print” in creating looks.
According to Fredrik Folkesson, who is Product Manager for the brand, Tiger Jeans has evolved massively over time, since its birth in 2001. After departing from the larger fashion family, Tiger of Sweden, Tiger Jeans has used it’s cooler, more urban reputation to become one of Sweden’s’ leading jeans brands.
The store opening today in Copenhagen is the first to date that sells exclusively Tiger Jeans, and reflects its’ growth to an established Fashion line.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Gucci Unveils Surrealistic Window For Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
July 21st marked the opening of the Gucci-designed window for their new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s FW 2015/2016 collection. His first collection and its dreamlike display will be installed in stores worldwide by the end of the month.
An admix of disco’s love for striking neon lights and Salvador Dali’s penchant for the odd and grandiose — the window features purple and turquoise LEDs, creating a distinct 3D perspective, alongside embroidered snakes and giant swallows. This nod to surrealism goes hand in hand with the eclectic collection, being both eye-catching and imaginative.
Antony Morato Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
From the beating heart of New York City arises the urbanite “Places” campaign from Antony Morato. Following the footsteps of world-travelling Italian man, this curious adventurer has arrived in the city of a thousand lights. As any traveller would know, culture is as diverse as the winding paths of the road. And a lot of roads lead to New York. As a cradle of cultural exchange, the city continues to breathe new trends, affected by the thousands of “places” it hides. The FW campaign, shot by photographer Tony Thorimbert uncovers the unexpected metropolis, leaving behind what we assume New York to be and presenting it through its vibrancy, its architecture and its urbanism.
Recontres d’Arles Photography Fair 2015
From the 6th of July to the 20th of September, the annual summer photography festival in Arles will showcase a number of specially designed exhibitions to the public.
The festival prides itself in its variety, having multiple projects running simultaneously throughout the city. From exhibitions, to sites, and artists, the artistic direction works towards fulfilling this kaleidoscopic construction. This year, the photography fair will center on the worlds of music, film and architecture, hoping to blaze the fires of cultural introspection – acting as an x-ray of photographic creation, paired with a festive heart.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?