Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
'Elastic Heart' by Sia Starring Shia Labeouf
Few music videos bear the hallmarks of exceptional iconography these days – rarely do they execute it twice – but the rulebook goes out the window with Sia’s latest release, rendered all the more surreal for its casting of Shia LaBeouf.
An extension of the narrative behind her unforgettable Grammy-nominated promo for ‘Chandelier’ released in May last year, the video for ‘Elastic Heart’ proves an equally unforgettable sequel, again featuring platinum-haired protagonist Maddie Ziegler, this time dancing alongside LaBeouf. Under the confines of a giant iron cage set in a steely vacant warehouse, Ziegler and LaBeouf present a poignant performance, the same iconic nude leotards ravaged by dirt, carving the contour of second round of awe-inspiring choreography, crafted under the artful eye of film-maker Daniel Askill. To brand the film a mere music video would be an injustice; here we have the second of two extraordinary works of art.
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
Alles Maskerade at Museum Villa Rot
'Alles Maskerade', a collective exhibit presented by the Museum Villa Rot (Burgrieden, Germany), explores the concepts of masquerade and carnival within the framework of contemporary art. The act of dressing up can be interpreted in many different ways, and can have just as many meanings. But how do masquerades hold up to their cultural value in the postmodern media age? And what impact do they have on contemporary art?
The showcase is part of a larger exhibition project, created in collaboration with the MEWO Kunsthalle and curated by Stefanie Dathe (Museum Villa Rot) and Axel Lapp (MEWO Kunsthalle).
The exhibit will feature the works of the following artists: Axel Hoedt, Phyllis Galembo, Kristof Georgen, Fergus Greer, Imme van der Haak, Thomas Hörl, Klaus Pichler, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Jacqui Stockdale, Jean Tinguely, Urban Camouflage and Miguel Walch.
Alles Maskerade: 16 November, 2014 – 22 February, 2015. Burgrieden, Germany.
All images via Axel Hoedt's www.exhibitionviews.co.uk
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Interview: Ozark Henry
Musician, fashion icon, father – Ozark Henry does it all. Born into a musical family (Henry's father is a classical composer), the Belgian artist became aware of his love for music at a very young age, but it wasn't until his mid-twenties and the release of his debut record, 'I'm Seeking Something That Has Already Found Me', (praised by none other than David Bowie) that he turned into a fully fledged star. ZOO met up with Ozark Henry, real name Piet Goddaer, just days before he started touring the BeNeLux, to talk about living in a small town, Ann Demeulemeester and his seventh studio album, 'Stay Gold'.
ZOO: How old were you when you started making music?
OH: It all happened by chance. When I was young, we had to do civil service. I did it in a theatre company where I made some music, just to help them out. And then that music got great reviews, and other theatre companies said: "Who made that? We want him to work for us!" Later on, I worked for some big theatre companies in Amsterdam, and one night an international A&R was at a venue where my music was being played, and he liked it. He wanted to meet me and talk about what I was doing. He also asked if I was interested in making an album. That's when I rolled into it – at the age of 26.
ZOO: 'Stay Gold' is your seventh studio album. How is it different from your previous work? And what was the main inspiration behind it?
OH: Well, it's different and yet very similar to how I started out 17 or 18 years ago. I moved to a small costal town in 2011, to an old house with a great atmosphere. I installed a studio in the house and thought: "This is a great place to make music." Then I started recording ideas and soon realised that those ideas were not just a blueprint for what could be an album – it was something that was already finished.
ZOO: How did you come up with the concept behind the atmospheric video for 'I'm Your Sacrifice', the lead single from 'Stay Gold'?
OH: Since I'd made the album on my own, the way I used to do it, I had this refreshing feeling – as if this was my first album. All those emotions came back. When I first started out, I didn't have the time or the opportunity to make my own artwork or think about the videos. I had so much fun making 'Stay Gold' that I wanted to do everything for the album myself, so that it would be obvious that it was all part of the same universe. And because I'm not a filmmaker, I decided to make something that I could control, so I made the video with my iPhone.
OH: Yes, I even wrote a simple script. The video was actually made in the coastal town where I live, so I knew a lot of places where I could shoot. And that was really cool because even in Italy, for instance, the video was the most played video for weeks, even on TV. Considering that I made it with my iPhone...
ZOO: Is there a link between fashion and music?
OH: Sure, because everything is about perception. What you wear is how you express your identity. It should be something that makes you feel comfortable, that gives you confidence.
ZOO: Can you tell us about your collaboration with Ann Demeulemeester?
OH: They knew me as a customer for some time and started helping out, so that I would have unique pieces. They know their craft so well. And I've been a fan for a long time, and it just led to a relationship which has become something really beautiful.
ZOO: You seem to harbour very warm feelings towards them.
OH: Yes. The work is so close to my identity, and she's so loved and respected around the whole world. It's like travelling with your family all the time, you know? It makes me feel very confident wherever I go and gives a safe feeling. Sometimes it's a big effort to get the energy needed to perform, so that really helps. I always have strong emotions when I think about her. And the people who work there. They're wonderful people, very passionate about something they've been doing for such a long time in such a fantastic way. And to be part of that is also great.
ZOO: What's next for you?
OH: 'Stay Gold' finally comes out in Holland – although it's so close to Belgium, it's been one of the last countries in Europe to release the album. I'll be touring the BeNeLux because I have a strong fan base here, and I really want to thank my fans for the support I've had for many years.
FEIT Opens First New York Store
Neoluxury footwear and accessories brand FEIT has launched its first New York store. The FEIT for NY flagship, located in the Nolita neighbourhood, epitomises the NYC-based company's passion for producing sustainable high-quality products and is as much a retail space as it is an art installation.
The store is composed of raw construction materials like Baltic birch, concrete and hanging leathers, reflecting the company's ethos and development principles. The design of the new FEIT for NY location, titled the 'Raw Elements of Construction”, was created by Price in collaboration with installation artist Jordana Maisie, who was inspired by his distinctive vision for the brand.
ESCADA Spring/Summer 2015 Eyewear Collection
For the upcoming season, ESCADA delivers tonnes of beautiful styles to adorn your eyes with. Intricate gold details and glamorous patterns permeate this sophisticated yet youthful offering. Cat-eye and butterfly-shaped, the designs excite with expressive colours and fluid lines, making for a feminine and playful collection. And, fear not, there's definitely a pair for every occasion. Good luck picking just one.
Voices from the Underground at London's Institute of Contemporary Arts
Andrey Silvestrov: A House on Furmanny, 2010
In 1991, the USSR ceased to exist. In the years leading up to the dissolution, perestroika and glasnost, the reformatory policies initiated by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, paved the way for a relaxation of rules and minimised censorship.
Yet little is known about the artistic climate in the Soviet Union during this historical period. Voices from the Underground, a one-day film event hosted by film programmer Olya Borissova and writer, curator and consultant Anya Harrison, explores perestroika's impact on cultural happenings and provides a glimpse into art movements sweeping the Union more than 20 years ago.
The screening of the three films – Timur Novikov: Zero Object, A House on Furmanny and USSR Art – will be followed by a panel discussion.
Voices from the Underground: 15 November, 2014 at the ICA, London
Alexander Shein: Timur Novikov: Zero Object, 2014
Alexander Shein: Timur Novikov: Zero Object, 2014
PHILIPP PLEIN Cruise 2015 Campaign
Rock 'n' roll meets irony in the new PHILIPP PLEIN Cruise 2015 campaign. Realised by the observant American photographer Dylan Don, star model Roxy Kiscinska amuses and charms in a series of fun, pop art-inspired images. Fluorescent, spiky maxi booths provide the perfect backdrop for the edgy looks sported by Kiscinska. In one of the images, the Polish beauty playfully throws a handful of popcorn into the air – the PHILIPP PLEIN girl is definitely having the time of her life.
BALLY & Modernism at Art Basel – Miami Beach
Bally continues its travelling modernist exhibition, sub-called 'Triangle Walks', at Art Basel, Miami. From 4 – 7 December 2014, the Swiss leather goods brand will present the fully renovated Jean Prouvé house, thus celebrating the historical construction's 70th anniversary. Also on show will be Bally's noteworthy collection of modernist furniture as well as exclusive new pieces by Zak Kitnick and the French design duo Kolkoz.
Speaking about the 6x9 Jean Prouvé house, Frédéric de Narp, CEO of the company, said, “Bally is very proud to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Jean Prouvé house, a masterpiece of architecture, created in 1944 upon request of the French government after the war, to relocate victims of the bombings in Lorraine, at Bally we call it the “House of Hope”. The values that links Bally to Jean Prouvé et Pierre Jeanneret are their creativity, ingenuity and humanism.”
Frieze London 2014
Robert Mapplethorpe: Lisa Lyon, 1981 (courtesy of Alison Jacques Gallery)
Art lovers, behold: Frieze London is just around the corner. The 12th annual contemporary art fair, staged by the founders of frieze magazine, Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover, will once again take place in London's Regent's Park and place 162 of the world's leading art galleries under one (temporary) roof. Participants include such recognised institutions as Alison Jacques, Gagosian Gallery, Sadie Coles HQ and Pace Gallery. For the third time, Frieze London will coincide with Frieze Masters, a presentation dedicated to art made before the year 2000. This year also sees the introduction of Live, an event showcasing cutting-edge performance-based installations.
Frieze London: 15–18 October 2014
Saul Fletcher: Untitled #295 (LBC), 2014 (courtesy of Alison Jacques Gallery)
Ian Kiaer: Tooth House, cabinet frame, 2014 (courtesy of Alison Jacques Gallery)
Robert Mapplethorpe: Leg, 1983 (courtesy of Alison Jacques Gallery)
Fernanda Gomes: Untitled, 2013 (courtesy of Alison Jacques Gallery)
Bottega Veneta Cruise 2014/2015 Campaign
Bottega Veneta has unveiled the first image from its Cruise 2014/2015 campaign. Shot on location in the New York Botanical Garden by acclaimed American art photographer Ryan McGinley, the dreamy campaign will feature both women's and men's collections.
McGinley, who at the mere age of 25 became one of the youngest artists to have a solo exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art, is the latest photographer to collaborate with the Italian luxury goods company. Previous collaborators include such outstanding artists as David Sims, Nick Knight, Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Annie Leibovitz.
Bottega Veneta Celebrates the Hammer Museum's 12th Annual Gala
Attended by Hollywood's crème de la crème (Julia Roberts, Demi Moore, Jim Carrey and Barbara Kruger, to name but a few), the Hammer Museum's 12th annual Gala was a massive success. The sold-out event, held in Los Angeles, raised $2.5 million for the museum's exhibitions and free public programmes and honoured artist Mark Bradford and one of the 20th century's most iconic musicians, Joni Mitchell.
Renowned singer/songwriter Sia performed with a three-song set. Emily Blunt, John Krasinski, and Danna and Ed Ruscha served as co-chairs with Tomas Maier, Creative Director at Bottega Veneta. Hammer Museum's Ann Philbin and Marco Bizzarri, President of Bottega Veneta, greeted guests before the seated dinner.
PURO Sky Lounge
Located just a stone's throw away from the bustling Kurfürstendamm, the PURO Sky Lounge is one of the trendiest clubs in Berlin. Spread over three floors, the hotspot, set in the Europa-Center, consists of a luxurious bar as well as a dynamic club, split into the NORTHLOUNGE and the more relaxed SOUTHLOUNGE. Superstars like Beyonce, Pharell Williams, Rihanna and Lady Gaga have all experienced the vibrant PURO Sky Lounge atmosphere and enjoyed spectacular 360 degree views of the city skyline.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The Dior SS15 show was really and truly quite spectacular. Despite the lack of over-the-top-ness, creative director Raf Simons' modest take on opulence was refreshing, slightly futuristic and unlike anything you've ever seen before. Classic Dior silhouettes were modernised, augmented or completely abandoned. A sleeveless coat-dress in charcoal, worn over an intricate lace top, was complemented by below-the-knee booties, resulting in a simple yet sophisticated compilation. A textured shirt and athletic shorts combo was, rather unexpectedly, worn under a pristine lady-like coat. Besides, models looked like ethereal creatures while sporting those creamy cocoon shirt-dresses with drop shoulders. Understated grandeur at its finest.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Women are powerful. Women are strong. Set against a Parisian street scene, the CHANEL SS15 show was a vibrant and extraordinary manifesto, meant to be seen, heard and talked about. Unsurprisingly, a plethora of silhouettes and an especially diverse colour palette were implemented in this awe-inspiring collection. The range of looks was simply unparalleled: there were boxy tweed separates, metallic mosaic dresses, cosy knits, pinstripe suits, chic blouses, leather pieces, watercolour boots, gold sandals and much, much more. Armed with placards and speakerphones, models marched down Boulevard CHANEL, ready to take on the world. And we'll follow suit.
Carven at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The Carven SS15 collection had a bit of everything. Structured lady-like coats and oversized zip-up ones. Clean, bold colours and mixed prints. Tailored pants and flirty A-line minis. What creative director Guillaume Henry's latest offering didn't have, however, was so-so pieces. Every garment was exceptionally well made, wearable and great to look at. Graphic lines – both thick and thin – added an element of movement and intensity to otherwise clean-cut looks, while exaggerated lapels and contrasting pockets freshened up classic silhouettes.
Comme des Garçons at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Rei Kawakubo is a fashion visionary. Everything she does is unique, unexpected and intellectually stimulating. At the Comme des Garçons SS15 show, red was the clear starting point. Exhibiting an avant-garde aesthetic, the devilish shade not only dominated the show, it possessed it. Formerly white garments were now splattered with the blood-like colour. Meanwhile, silhouettes were exaggerated and disproportionate, creating eerie yet fascinating triangular shapes. Dresses were made out of scraps of fabric, shiny belts and massive ribbons. Models' hair had an almost Marie Antoinette-esque quality.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Casual elegance and relaxed silhouettes were exhibited at the Emporio Armani SS15 show. Mixing statement pieces (oversized necklaces and boxy bags) with summery yet chic garments, the collection oozed understated sophistication. Various shades of blue dominated the show, staying true to the Emporio Armani aesthetic. Horizontal stripes found their way onto tailored pantsuits, a flowy cape-coat and loose tops. Patterned cycling shorts were worn under flirty dresses, providing an element of surprise.
Fay at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
It's Fay Time! Designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi fused street-wear with sportswear at the Fay SS15 presentation. With a number of sequinned pieces, frilly detailing and vast amounts of pink and baby blue throughout the collection, the garments were both athletic and feminine. Basketball shorts and miniskirts were accompanied by baggy sweaters with oversized pockets. A dress had an elasticated hem, zippers were everywhere and sneakers were moulded into heels, while versatile backpacks completed the sporty looks.
Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Dean and Dan Caten know how to have fun. Lots of it. For SS15, the design duo presented a collection that was young, fresh and enticing. The colours were bold and lively, while the silhouettes ranged from loose to exaggerated. A billowing maxi skirt in a multi-colour print was worn with a cropped white T-shirt, creating a fine balance between simplicity and opulence. Distressed jeans and boy shorts hung low on the hips. A ruffled top in vivid red was accompanied by beaded micro shorts. Barely there, yet very effective.
G-SHOCK Premium announced the launch of their latest offering in collaboration with the Royal Air Force last Wednesday, under the suitable surroundings of London’s RAF Museum. The GPW-1000RAF edition has been designed under the veteran counsel of pilots, making for a model that is dependably robust to extreme conditions. Aviator functions arrive in the form of a first-of-its-kind Hybrid GPS/Radio Wave Ceptor technology, Zulu time function and for impeccable accuracy and universal synchronization across time zones.
A tour of the museum kicked off proceedings, after which RAF Chinook Squadron Leader, Steve Bell, afforded insight into the inspiration behind the GPW-1000RAF’s most distinguishing features. The Chinook helicopter itself served as muse to the model, accounting for its remarkable resilience, versatility and capability. The launch promo film depicted the timepiece conquering the most confronting of conditions, before guests were treated to a taste of combat, taking to the flight simulator and 4D cinema.
The Casio G-SHOCK Premium x RAF collaboration is limited to 500 pieces and will be available in stores from November 1st 2014.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The running theme at J.W. Anderson's SS15 show was understated sophistication, and, with a diverse colour palette and various silhouettes to choose from, one could easily pick an outfit for nearly any occasion. A sixties-inspired cream shirt dress with exaggerated decorative buttons would look ravishing on someone spending their summer days in the Hamptons, while a young Parisian socialite might prefer a relaxed shirt with wide sleeves and a skirt to match. Elbow-length gloves accompanied textured minidresses with folds. Floppy hats and heeled loafers complemented the looks.
Berlin Art Week 2014
abc — art berlin contemporary,18 – 21 SEP 2014; 2013 Foto: Stefan Korte
For the third consecutive year, Berlin Art Week will excite and treat art lovers from all over the world with a wide variety of exhibitions, performances, film screenings and much more. Opening on Tuesday, 16 September, and running till Sunday, 21 September, the Art Week will unleash the spirit of contemporary art across Berlin. A myriad of both established and up-and-coming artists such as Marguerite Humeau, Luca Vitone, and Kate Cooper, winner of the the Ernst Schering Foundation Art Award, will present their latest works in select galleries, while abc art berlin contemporary, an art fair held at the Station in Berlin-Kreuzberg, will offer an extensive programme of must-see shows across the site. Those interested in the issues surrounding montage and the practice of re-screening historical films and video materials will surely enjoy a panel discussion with Elske Rosenfeld, Mareike Bernien and Sandra Schäfer, while conceptual artist Hamish Fulton's performance piece, Walking East – Walking West, will involve 800 participants divided in two groups as they walk – facing each other – to mark the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Haus am Waldsee, Michael Sailstorfer – B Seite / B Side, 5 SEP – 9 NOV 2014, Michael Sailstorfer, Wohnen mit Verkehrsanbindung / Anzing / Wilnham, 2001 Foto: Michael Sailstorfer
me Collectors Room / Stiftung Olbricht, EXOTICA… and 4 other cases of the self, 17 SEP – FEB 2015, Marina Abramovi?, Self portrait with skull, 2005, Courtesy Marina Abramovi? and Sean Kelly Gallery, New York, Foto: Paolo Canevari
Import Projects, Marguerite Humeau: Horizons, 3 SEP – 11 OKT 2014, Marguerite Humeau,The Opera of Prehistoric Creatures (2013) Opera is performed by three creatures vocal tracts and their synthetic vibrating vocal cords. Left to right: Entelodont, “Hell Pig”, -25M years ago; Ambulocetus, “Walking Whale” , -50M years ago; Mammoth Imperator, -4,5M years ago
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Alexander Wang's SS15 offering was all about mesh. High-neck mesh minidresses, slouchy maxi dresses with mesh inserts and even mesh sandals, the sporty material dominated the American designer's catwalk in an effective and fresh way. Sharp tailoring was mixed with relaxed silhouettes – a sheer oversized shirt accentuated with a barcode belt (and a smaller barcode printed on the collar) was paired with a classic, high-waisted pant in black. Spaghetti-strapped crop tops and a cropped bomber jacket provided an element of fearlessness, while pleated mini dresses and skirts added a flirty and feminine touch to this sporty luxe collection. Models' hair was pulled back in an easy ponytail, and the barely-there makeup worked perfectly with the collection's overall feel.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
So mysterious, so dandy. Giorgio Armani, a fashion figure like no other, delivers one quality offering after another. While his secret to everlasting greatness remains unknown, one can’t be blamed for at least trying to decode Mr. Armani’s work, be it women’s or menswear. In fact, the Emporio Armani FW15 men’s collection was all about decoding, deception and espionage, minus the blood and fantastical action scenes.
An army of smouldering spies stepped out on the catwalk decked-out in playfully thought-through ensembles that would make even Bond proud. And there was so much goodness to choose from: perfect knits, elevated by asymmetrically-placed zippers, cropped cocoon coats, ribbed ultra-luxe sweats worn with mischievous bombers or pressed leather jackets, cosy fur snoods... With that in mind, it wasn’t the impeccable craftsmanship that left a lasting impression, but instead the sometimes under-appreciated versatility that permeates all of the beloved designer’s work. All in all, it’s mission accomplished.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
Berlin Art Film Festival
'Nan Goldin - I Remember Your Face' (2014) Sabine Lidl, languages: English, German, subtitles: English
The first ever edition of the Berlin Art Film Festival will reveal a new side to the always-bustling metropolis. Privately funded and organised by the people behind the 'Stil in Berlin' blog, the four-day festival will show more than 30 films (“from poetry to porn”), all of which are either in English or with English subtitles. What's more, a number of filmmakers and actors will also be present for the screenings and the two panel discussions.
The highlights include 'An Interview With an Artist', a short film about an American artist (played by film professor and curator Marc Siegel), who would much rather talk about underwear than anything substantial, and 'Ich Will Mich Nicht Künstlich Aufregen / Asta Upset', which tells the story of a young and fairly secure art curator in Berlin, still trying to figure it out.
'I Remember Your Face', the Sabine Lidl-directed documentary about controversial photographer Nan Goldin, will close the festival. The film will also see its German premiere.
Berlin Art Film Festival: 4 – 7 December, 2014
'An Interview With an Artist' (2011) Telémachos Alexiou, language: English, no subtitles
'Asta Upset' (2014) Max Linz, languages: German/ English, subtitles: English/German
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.
AGL Three Bags by Attilio Giusti Leombruni
For Spring/Summer 2015, Vera Giusti, one of the three driving forces behind Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the family-run Italian shoe and accessories company, asked her sisters Marianna and Sara to come up with telling bag designs that best represent their personality and unique sense of style.
The resulting 'AGL Three Bags' collection, available in select multi-brand boutiques, does just that. The artisan models come in three contrasting colours – cobalt, lace and green mint – and are both functional and beautifully crafted.
Reincarnation by Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL
Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne and Geraldine Chaplin star in 'Reincarnation', a short film written and directed by Karl Lagerfeld. The nostalgic and beautifully-executed video, set to be screened in Salzburg on 1 December, 2014, the night before CHANEL's Paris-Salzburg 2014/2015 'Métiers d'art' show, gives an imagined glimpse into the life of Gabrielle Chanel. Depicting an Austro-Hungarian Empire-esque Salzburg in the year of 1954, Mr. Williams plays a young lift-boy whose outfit would later inspire the beloved CHANEL jacket.
In addition to playing a pivotal role and creating the soundtrack for the video, Pharrell Williams, along with Cara Delevingne, will also be featured in the upcoming Paris-Salzburg 2014/15 'Métiers d'art' campaign.
Celebrating Monogram by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has released the alluring 'Celebrating Monogram' collection. In a tribute to the revolutionary and culturally impactful symbol, created by Georges Vuitton back in 1896, classic Louis Vuitton styles have been re-imagined by six extraordinary creative 'iconoclasts': Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman, Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Newson and Rei Kawakubo. Each bag and piece of luggage is a playful and daring yet highly refined example of prime craftsmanship and innovative, one-of-a-kind design.
MIU MIU Cruise 2015 Campaign
Featuring rising star Natalie Westling in a series of poetic and captivating shots, the Miu Miu Cruise 2015 campaign juxtaposes high fashion imagery with photographs of the great outdoors. The campaign, executed by British photographer Jamie Hawkesworth, gently echoes the Cruise 2015 collection's psychedelic spirit. Here, visually stimulating images of colour-saturated landscapes and man-made constructions are paired with the alluring model's portraits, as if suggesting that the Miu Miu woman is both everywhere and everything. Maybe she is.
New Address for Prada in Hamburg
Prada has relocated to the most prestigious shopping destination in Hamburg. The new 32 Neuer Wall spot was designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi and houses ready-to-wear women's and men's collections as well as accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The two-level 320 square metre store boasts Prada's signature black-and-white marble flooring (in addition to dark wooden floors), huge windows overlooking the Bleichenfleet canal and sleek furniture; polished steel accents complete the enticing interiors. On the ground floor, the most sophisticated male customers' needs will be taken care of in the private Made-to-Measure room. A black marble staircase leads to an area where women's clothing and footwear are displayed.
City Guides by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has added seven hot destinations to its trusted collection of City Guides. The beautifully designed travel companions, now also covering Berlin, Istanbul, Milan, Paris, Rio De Janeiro, Shanghai and Singapore, among 14 other metropolises, offer a unique and stylish look at some of the world's most fascinating cities. The Louis Vuitton City Guides explore the finest, quirkiest and most interesting attractions each location has to offer, hand-picked by a team expert writers and journalists from different countries.
The City Guides can also be purchased in a handy, any-5-destinations box set, available exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores.
Hyperflex Collection by Replay
Replay's Hyperflex Collection is a complete game-changer. With 100% elasticity, the Italian denim expert's latest offering allows complete ease of movement without having to worry about stretching your brand-new jeans. What's more, the innovative product, available in three different washes, will retain its original shape even after considerable wear, so you can rock a beloved pair for a long, long time.
The Hyperflex campaign stars supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio as well as FC Barcelona stars Neymar Jr., Gerard Piqué, Luis Suarez, Andrés Iniesta and Ivan Rakitic.
Woolrich Unveils First North American Flagship Store in New York
Returning to its roots, Woolrich has opened its first North American flagship store. Located in New York’s SoHo neighbourhood, the two-storey spot carries menswear, womenswear and accessories from Woolrich John Rich & Bros, the brand's contemporary collection, as well as menswear from the designer label Woolrich Woolen Mills.
Decorated by vintage items from the original Pennsylvania mill such as catalogues, wool-production tools and swatch cards, the first standalone space in North America highlights the company's 184-year history and marks a significant step in expanding the company's already-growing international presence.
Resolute Hydrating Body Balm by Aesop
Aesop's Resolute Hydrating Body Balm is the perfect antithesis to dry and stressed skin. Combining classic skin-conditioning ingredients such as Vitamin E, sweet almond oil and shea butter with a blend of fragrant essential oils, the Australian skincare expert's latest product nourishes and hydrates, leaving the skin smooth and supple. For convenience, the readily absorbed body balm is packaged in a 120 ml tube as well as a 500 ml pump bottle.
Iris van Herpen at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Iris van Herpen's SS15 collection, titled, rather fittingly, 'Magnetic Motion', was inspired by a visit to CERN's Large Hadron Collider, a magnetic field exceeding that of earth's by 20,000 times. “I find beauty in the continual shaping of chaos which clearly embodies the primordial power of nature's performance,” she said. The Dutch designer collaborated with two fellow creatives, architect Philip Beesley and artist Jolan van der Wiel, and the result was magnetic, indeed. With a number of sculpted pieces and an atmospheric colour palette, the offering stayed true to the conceptual designer's usual aesthetic. The 3D-printed crystal dresses, for instance, were quite spectacular, exposing Ms. van Herpen's talent for creating architectural and show-stopping garments.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
With a moody colour palette, abstract prints and pop art references, the Wunderkind SS15 presentation was anything but boring. From shimmery pantsuits to romantic midi and maxi dresses in more uplifting shades (yellow and pink) to flowers adorning cute blazers, the garments exuded a notion of artistry and were both unique and inspiring. Grey dominated the collection without making it heavy-looking or unappealing, and the fit, though relaxed, worked perfectly considering the collection’s slightly bohemian feel. To make things even more interesting, lips-on-toast collages were printed on roomy separates, adding an unexpected yet highly welcomed twist.
Coach Dreamers Campaign
Shot by Mikael Jansson, the new Coach Dreamers campaign stars four young and intriguing talents in a set of atmospheric and autumnal images. Featuring up-and-comers Zoë Kravitz, BANKS, Odeya Rush and Christopher Abbott, the beautiful portraits exude the essence of the New York-headquartered modern luxury brand: individuality, authenticity and innate cool.
Speaking about the campaign, creative director Stuart Vevers said, “the idea of the 'American dream’ is relevant all around the world - independent spirits who lead their lives in an individual, unexpected way. The Coach Dreamers campaign offers a glimpse into the lives of four such souls. It captures the personality and attitude of the collection, as well as the people who will make it uniquely theirs: it celebrates cool, effortless ease, optimism and a sense of spontaneous freedom - all inspired by the spirit of Coach.”
Hood by Air at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
If Part One of the three-part Hood by Air extravaganza focused mainly on menswear and augmented, out-of-this-world accessories, the second installment paid more attention to girls. Girls as fierce, futuristic warriors, actually. The Paris-located SS15 presentation, named 'Superego', though smaller in scale than its New York predecessor, was just as exciting and full of surprises. Zippers and hooks, pleats and cutouts, designer Shayne Oliver's attention to detail was quite sensational. Garments were deconstructed, and the fit was loose. A slouchy, barely-there jumpsuit, for instance, was paired with high waisted shorts and not much else. More importantly, though, models wore custom-made Hood by Air contact lenses. We can't wait for Part Three.
Replay The Stage
Located in the edgy Porta Nuova district in Milan, the new Replay flagship store is set to offer a unique and inspiring retail experience. Designed by Roman and Williams Buildings and Interiors, the 1500 square meter film and theatre-themed Piazza Gae Aulenti concept store will transport its customers to American-style movie sets: a humble Midwestern house, an abandoned barn (mysteriously full of jeans) and a 1928 Manhattan Tailor shop, where customers can design their own custom-made jeans.
On 19 September, selected guests including American actress Rosario Dawson and supermodels Alessandra Ambrosio, Coco Rocha and Stella Maxwell were treated to an exclusive preview of Replay The Stage. To celebrate the occasion, Blood Orange and Chic featuring Nile Rogers performed in a special tribute to the city of Milan.
Limited Edition Woolrich Parka by Vlisco
Outerwear experts Woolrich team up with Vlisco for a special, limited edition parka for the upcoming SS15 season. Combining exceptional craftsmanship with a beautiful colour palette, the water-resistant Woolrich Parka by Vlisco is a fresh and exciting reinterpretation of the iconic garment – just in time for spring. The waxed parka has a relaxed fit and clean lines, ensuring comfort for its wearer – all the while remaining modern and fun.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The Fendi SS15 collection had a distinctly graphic quality about it. Graphics and an orchid motif that found its way onto fur and leather jackets, flirty dresses and even a knitted tee (coated with plastic) added a lot of character to Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi's latest offering. Skirts and tops were slashed, and many garments looked as if they'd been dipped in paint. Relaxed silhouettes dominated the show: jodhpurs and translucent maxi skirts were paired with loose tees and candy-coloured knits. Models, fronted by the one and only Cara Delevingne, sported playful eye makeup.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Gender-bending and simplicity were at the heart of the Jil Sander SS15 show. Drawing inspiration from the works and life of Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss writer and photographer, creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga blended masculine and feminine silhouettes and juxtaposed statement pieces with simple white tees and vest tops. A black sweater with dropped shoulders and exaggerated sleeves was paired with a tailored pant. Belted double layer A line wrap skirts and dresses as well as faded crocodile sandals worn with contrasting below-the-knee socks underlined the collection's duality. The hair was kept loose, while the make-up was translucent and fresh.
Unseen Photo Fair 2014
Irina Ionesco, 40 x 30 cm, Silver Gelatin print, 1976
Taking place at Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam, Unseen will once again serve as a platform for emerging photographers and allow established professionals to exhibit previously unseen work. With more than fifty participating galleries, the third annual photography fair will run from 18 to 21 September. One of the highlights will include the presentation of two exclusive, vintage prints by Paris-born Romanian photographer Irina Ionesco presented by Alex Daniëls, Reflex Gallery.
Untitled (Sophie), 2012 © Augustin Rebetez/Galerie Nicola von Senger, Zürich
Eye Witness (Gisalal), 2014 © Regine Petersen/East Wing
Irina Ionesco, 40 x 30 cm, Silver Gelatin print, 1976
Mulberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For SS15, Mulberry presented a collection inspired by classic English gardens. Offering an array of polished separates and easy-to-wear mini and midi dresses as well as beautifully crafted bags and shoes – something the brand is predominately known for – the collection exuded youthful sophistication. Unsurprisingly, leather was incorporated in many of the looks, ensuring there's plenty of it-girl edginess (the highly-coveted Cara Delevingne bag collection is available now), though some of the more refined pieces such as a white see-through blouse with crotchet detailing were just as great.
Escada at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Spring is all about colour, and Escada's SS15 collection was, without doubt, bursting with it. An array of garments in deep purples, lime greens and tangerine oranges were the focal point this season. Floral patterns adorned dresses and smart separates, while super light knits and sheer blouses added a notion of easiness. And, what's more, everything can be mixed and matched. The collection was accessorised with skinny belts cinched at the waist and beige or yellow clutch bags.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
Ziggy and Stephan Marley Front John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Music trails John Varvatos like a shadow. So sweetly coupled are the two, twenty-one impossibly iconic seasons have seen Varvatos join forces with the likes of Iggy Pop, Willie Nelson, KISS and Ringo Starr, to name but a few – and the affinity extends to their latest collaboration, finding fitting figureheads in none other than Ziggy and Stephen Marley.
The Spring 2015 campaign was shot in Austin, Texas, by legendary rock photographer, Danny Clinch, and features the Marley brothers as the centerpiece of a striking and stoic family portrait.
Stripped down to its essence, the black and white portrait frames the siblings with a quiet yet charismatic purity, their pride and spirit speaking through against timeless sable-black tailoring; Ziggy Marley wears a black crocodile jacquard tuxedo and Richard dress shoe, while Stephen Marley is dressed in one button peak lapel Austin version, paired with a charcoal dress shirt and cap-toes.
An idea conceived under the eye of longtime Varvatos collaborator, YARD, the family portrait will be brought to life with the launch of an exclusive short documentary film directed by Clinch, in celebration of their father’s 70th birthday which falls on February 6th.
The film will debut on www.johnvarvatos.com on February 5th 2015.
Un Mondo Nuovo by Ennio Capasa
Swapping the stoic classicism of Milan for the pulsing pace of Tokyo in the early eighties must have confronted quite a culture shock to a young Ennio Capasa. After completing his studies in Southern Italy, Capasa, just twenty years old, uprooted to Tokyo to work under the ultimate avant-gardist, Yohji Yamamoto, for three years, before returning to Italy to establish his own inimitable label, CoSTUME NATIONAL.
The leap was a lucrative one, an experience every bit as surreal as the aesthetic he was augmenting. Fulfilling a promise he had made to Fumi Yamamoto, Yohji’s mother, Capasa has released a book, Japan: A New World (Un Mondo Nuovo), immortalising his time spent in Japan – a chapter of his life which cast the die for his instinctively polyhedral work.
As an exceptional extension to the book, from 11th December 2014, Un Mondo Nuovo will illustrate the tale with the launch of its dedicated internet platform and parallel Instagram and Tumblr channels. The global interactive diary serves as a sensory mood board, exposing an fresh facet of Capasa’s intellect and experience, brought to life by videos, sound and news unearthed from the unpublished archive of a master who has ceaselessly innovated for over 25 years.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
In Focus: Play at J. Paul Getty Museum
Summer, The Lower East Side, New York City, 1937. Weegee (Arthur Fellig). The J. Paul Getty Museum. © International Center of Photography
Photography was introduced in 1839. Around the same time, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, a number of people in Europe and the United States were starting to discover the perks of having a previously unimaginable amount of free time.
During the 1850s, the notion of leisure became a photographic subject; activities like visits to amusement parks and circuses and playing in the street were now recorded, highlighting the myriad ways in which people can spend their free time.
From 23 December, 2014, to 10 May, 2015, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles will present more than two dozen images from the institution's permanent collection. 'In Focus: Play' will trace the development of photography, all the while revealing the very nature of recreation.
The exhibition will feature photographic works by prominent and lesser-known artists such as Diane Arbus, Imogene Cunningham, Roger Fenton, Man Ray and Larry Sultan.
In Focus: Play 23 December, 2014 – 10 May, 2015
La Perla Re-Opens Historic Boutique in Paris
La Perla has re-opened its historic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris. Designed by renowned architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store's interior was inspired by the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona, Italy. Soft, dusty colours pervade the 230 square metre space. Rich gold detailing accentuates the boutique's luxurious atmosphere.
The La Perla pieces are entrapped in delicate glass cases or displayed on velvet-clad trays. On the first floor, customers are welcomed into the VIP zone, where 'Made-to-Measure' collections are available. The area also leads to the boutique's most beautiful spot – the winter garden – where an array of show stopping pieces are presented on pedestals.
To commemorate the re-opening of the store, a celebratory event took place on 27 November, 2014. The launch party was attended by French actress Mélanie Laurent, dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, as well as Tony Thornburg and Richard Biedul, models from the La Perla men's catwalk.
House of Small Wonder Berlin
Four years ago, Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies opened the House of Small Wonder in Williamsburg, New York. It didn't take long for the greenhouse-like café, specialising in delicious comfort foods with a Japanese twist, to become a cherished place for breakfast and brunch.
The newly-opened Johannisstrasse branch, designed by Prop House's Jonathan Margulies, shares the same energising atmosphere and mouth-watering cuisine. Here, specialist dishes like the Okinawan Taco Rice and the Tsukune Don (a Japanese chicken meatball with sweet soy sauce) are served alongside New York favourites (poached eggs with wasabi hollandaise sauce, fluffy ginger and sesame pancakes and bacon shiso infused waffles, to name a few) and freshly-baked homemade bread, croissants and gluten-free cookies, bound to be appreciated by Berliners.
Mulberry Appoints New Creative Director
Mulberry has named Céline accessories designer Johnny Coca as its new Creative Director. The Seville-born designer will step into his new role on 8 July, 2015. He will be in charge of all of the British luxury fashion brand's collections.
Godfrey Davis, Chairman and CEO of Mulberry, said, “We are delighted that Johnny is joining us. He has a wealth of international luxury and fashion experience that will help us bring new energy and innovation to Mulberry.”
HUGO BOSS Prize 2014
Paul Chan: Sade for Sade's Sake, 2009, digital colour projection, 5 hours and 45 min. Installation view: Greene Naftali, New York, 2009. Photo: Gil Blank
On 20 November, 2014, the winner of the prestigious HUGO BOSS Prize was finally revealed during an award ceremony at New York's Guggenheim museum. Selected by an international jury of art world experts, Hong Kong-based artist Paul Chan was awarded a $100,000 prize. The laureate's work will also be presented in a special solo exhibition at the Guggenheim.
The event was attended by Hollywood stars such as actresses Margot Robbie and Kate Bosworth and director Michael Polish.
Launched in 1996 in conjunction with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, the HUGO BOSS Prize honours exceptional contemporary artists. The celebratory event takes place every two years. This year saw the tenth edition of the HUGO BOSS Prize.
Diesel Spring/Summer 2015 Pre-Collections
Diesel's Spring/Summer 2015 women's and men's Pre-Collections offer a fresh take on classic collegiate looks. Artistic director Nicola Formichetti's cool gang of 'students' rock sporty jackets, V-neck knits, graphic casual wear, statement denim and edgy evening wear, exuding that seemingly unattainable badass vibe.
“Inspiration is all about student life on campus and off – maybe it’s about the people that never went to school, the college dropouts. The collection is an evolution of FW 2014, and Diesel’s DNA of denim, leather and military which is all present and combined with a strong pop and sporty look and colors,” Formichetti said.
Grouped into sub-styles – Preppy Rock, Tattoo and Black Carpet – the Pre-Collections are subversive and brimming with unfiltered attitude.
Paris Photo 2014
Robert Mapplethorpe: Ariel Phillips, 1979 Silver gelatin print 40.6 x 50.8 cm Ariel Philipps, 1979 © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. (courtesy of Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac)
Taking place at the historic Grand Palais, the 18th edition of Paris Photo, an international art fair showcasing a rich selection of some of the best photographical works from the 19th century to the present day, will run from 13 to 16 November, 2014. The prestigious event will host 143 galleries and 26 art book dealers from 35 countries, bringing together art world professionals from across the globe. Photography enthusiasts, meanwhile, will appreciate the wonderfully extensive and innovative programme of exhibitions.
For this year's edition, the Museum of Modern Art will present a superb compilation of recently acquired pieces of photography. Other Paris Photo highlights include the Open Book exhibition dedicated to honouring photographers' catalogues of work as well as the special ACQUA #5 exhibit presented by fashion visionary Giorgio Armani.
Mark Ruwedel: Devils Cornfield, 1997 Gelatin silver print mounted to archival board with graphite lettering 16 x 20-inch print (courtesy of Gallery Luisotti)
Sarah Moon: Deux anémones, 2014 Tirage charbon couleur 74 x 57 cm (courtesy of Camera Obscura)
Camille Renée Devid: My other Side, 2014 Book (courtesy of Dirk K. Bakker Boeken)
Yeni & Nan: Simbolismo de la cristalizacion - Araya, 1984-1986/2013 C-prints from ektachrome slides 13 1/4 x 19 1/2 in. (33.66 x 49.53 cm) (courtesy of Henrique Faria Fine Art)
Peter Schlör: Reventón, 2011 Fineart-Pigmentprint / Diasec® 80 x 116 cm © Peter Schlör (courtesy of Nusser & Baumgar)
Emerging Crystal Universe by Jeff Mills
In 2005, Detroit-born, Chicago-based techno DJ and producer Jeff Mills released the first chapter in his ongoing 'Sleeper Wakes' series. The science fiction story and the illustrative album marked the beginning of an unlikely voyage through the human consciousness, which, according to Mills himself, doesn't have nor ever will have a definite end.
The project's eighth instalment, 'Emerging Crystal Universe', picks up where its predecessor, 'The Jungle Planet', left off. Within the record's 20 tracks, Mills, also known as The Wizard, looks beyond the everyday realities and reveals that “the 'human species' era is now in the past”.
Apart from providing a soundtrack to the latest 'Sleeper Wakes' chapter, the album also takes the form of a mysterious art piece. Encapsulated in a plexiglass panel with a crystal gem, 'Emerging Crystal Universe' is meant to be placed in the sun come 2065. What will it transform into? There's only one way to find out.
Giorgio Armani Opens New Armani / Istanbul Concept Store
Located in the Nisantasi area, the Turkish capital's most exclusive luxury district, the new Istanbul concept store delivers the complete Armani experience. The 1,800 square metre space, spread over six floors, features the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, EA7, Armani Jeans and Armani Junior collections, offering a well-rounded selection of unmissable fashion for both men and women.
The Istanbul / Armani store was designed by Mr. Armani and a team of in-house architects and is set to become an architectural landmark, thanks to its impressive facade and decadent interiors.
‘The new shops within the concept store, including the first in the city dedicated to Giorgio Armani collections, follow a principle of integration and harmony while retaining recognisable, distinctive features that belong to the individual brands. I wanted the whole space to embody the articulated consistency of my world, particularly visually,’ said the designer.
FLUID FLESH at NORDIC CONTEMPORARY
top left to right): “Furthark" by 2013 Christian Jeppsson, “Andy" by Lena Johanssonn, (bottom right) "Either do it, or don't, I got some place to be" by Andreas Emenius, (bottom left): "Scull" by Christian Lemmerz, (lower middle left) "The Fence" by John Kørner, (upper middle left): "(The Animation) A Folk Tale about Technological Digestion" by Uffe Isolotto
Held at NORDIC CONTEMPORARY, a new temporary space in Paris serving as a platform for modern art by both established and lesser known Scandinavian artists, Fluid Flesh, curated by Andreas Emenius, will show a darker, rarely seen side to the alluring region's cultural history at its meeting point with the contemporary being. The group exhibition will showcase intriguing work in various media by eight Scandinavian artists – John Kørner, Lena Johansson, Christian Jeppsson, Peter Linde Busk, Uffe Isolotto, Christian Lemmerz, Alexander Tovborg and Mr. Emenius – and challenge preconceived ideas of what Nordic art really is.
Fluid Flesh: 23 October – 1 November 2014
Tru Trussardi, in collaboration with Warner Music Italy, has selected 19 finalists for SoundTru, a contest aiming to discover talented artists with a passion for rock music. The finalists, chosen by a jury of experts – Gaia Trussardi (Trussardi Creative Director), Enrico Romano (A&R Warner Music Italy), Sara Andreani (A&R Warner Music Italy) and Michele Bisceglia (Music Consultant Rolling Stone Italia) – will perform in Tru Trussardi boutiques in 15 Italian and 4 European cities. The winner of SoundTrue will record a single with Warner Music Italy, which will be presented during a special event in December at Café Trussardi at Piazza della Scala, Milan.
lala Berlin Opens New Flagship Store
lala Berlin, the coveted German brand, has opened its new flagship store. Located in Mitte, Berlin's most fashionable district, the 120 square metre space houses all of lala Berlin's collections as well as a selection of accessories from compatible designers.
Architect Amir Abadi, who has previously created architectonic concepts for world-renowned brands such as Issey Miyake and Kaviar Gauche, was responsible for developing the brand-new store. The result is a reflection of the brand's philosophy: sleek yet feminine, the flagship' s interiors are just as enticing as the lala Berlin woman.
Véronique Branquinho at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Starting on a high note, Véronique Branquinho opened her SS15 show with an array of romantic looks in pearly white. Later on, however, the presentation entered a much darker territory. This juxtaposition – light vs. dark – played a pivotal role in the Belgian designer's latest collection. Though bearing the same stylistic and conceptual characteristics (voluminous silhouettes, specks of shimmer and the extensive use of pleats and ruffles, to name but a few), the second half of the offering was mysterious, moody and devilishly exciting, making for a complex and eye-catching presentation.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
J.W. Anderson's debut womenswear collection for Loewe was both intriguing and alluringly unordinary. Silhouettes were modified by placing pieces of fabric on relaxed garments, therefore disrupting lines and creating new, more unique shapes. Electrifying shades of orange, yellow, pink, blue and green were juxtaposed with muted, earthy hues, while suede and leather were incorporated in most of the looks. Ribbed knits were paired with belted trousers and summery skirts. Printed tees added an element of playfulness to this rather sophisticated yet imaginative SS15 offering.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Celebrating the house of Lanvin's 125th anniversary, Alber Elbaz presented a collection that radiated unfiltered opulence. Intricate detailing and plush fabrics were incorporated in an array of beautiful garments. Exquisite tapestry coats and skirts, teamed with light mesh tops or printed dresses, shimmered on the smokey catwalk. Pearls of various sizes elevated already impeccable lace looks, and sultry slip dresses hug the body in ways previously unimaginable. And as if that wasn't enough, gold rope necklaces adorned models' necks, making a grand and unforgettable statement.
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
At Paris Fashion Week, refined simplicity permeated the Akris SS15 offering. Creative director Albert Kriemler presented an array of minimalist designs highly evocative of Russian artist Kazimir Malevich's supreme work. Combining poised silhouettes with crisp and clean colour variations, the garments spoke a language of modest perfection. Tailored pants were abbreviated or rolled up at the bottom. Geometric shapes prevailed tinted see-through gowns. Chic ensembles were created by layering airy knits or pairing them with summery short front/long back day dresses.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For SS15, Dries Van Noten presented a collection inspired by John Everett Millais' seminal painting Ophelia. The Pre-Raphaelite masterpiece depicts a young woman floating in water, seemingly unaware of the beautiful surroundings. Mr. Van Noten took this ethereal vibe and translated it into an offering full of relaxed, fairy-like garments. The were lots of exquisite separates to choose from: a pinstripe blazer, multi-colour dresses, luxe cocoon coats and silky pyjama pants worn with loose, delicate shirts. And with the hair and makeup being all fresh and natural, models walked down the mossy catwalk (designed by Buenos Aires-based visual artist Alexandra Kehayoglou) looking like sublime, free-spirited princesses.
Giorgio Armani for FC Bayern München
Giorgio Armani has unveiled the official photograph of FC Bayern München, the 2014 champion team of Germany’s Bundesliga and winners of the Champions League 2013 and the FIFA Club World Cup 2013, wearing their custom-made Giorgio Armani uniforms. Mr. Armani has had a long-standing relationship with the world of football, having first designed a football club's wardrobe back in 2007.
The new made-to-measure uniform includes a luxe three-piece suit in anthracite grey, a reinforced cotton shirt, a patterned tie, a duster coat and a pair of classic lace-ups. Each garment has a label with the wearer's name, thus making it personal and unique.
André Gelpke: Amok
André Gelpke's new book, Amok, published by cpress and Spector Books, is the renowned German-born photographer's personal commentary on the absurdities of the modern world. Photographed over a period of twelve years, Gelpke's subjects range from family members to ordinary objects to passersby on the street, often unaware of Gelpke's watchful lens. Gelpke, who is considered to be one of the most important photographers in postwar Germany, is widely known for his reflective and exploratory work, his motto being “photography is a whore, never faithful, always feigning”.
Release: November 2014
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
“This is about a fresh new Versace, one that is contemporary, clean and strong,” Donatella Versace said about the Italian powerhouse's SS15 collection. She couldn't have put it any better. The looks were sleek and cool, and the fashionable crowd will be sporting those cropped racer vests (available in white, baby pink and black) and tailored jackets with oversized stitching in no time. Metallic rings – both printed and real – were placed on silky sheaths and youthful separates, while dazzling minis with sheer inserts created optical illusions.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
70s vibes were all the rage at the SS15 Gucci show. Reinterpreting styles from a bygone era can prove to be tricky, but creative director Frida Giannini's latest offering was a clear success. The colour palette was rich and earthly – a lava red kimono-style jacket looked great with a pair of washed denim jeans and suede booties. A knee-length coat-dress in moss green was both luxurious and wearable. But the truly show-stopping looks came out at the end – those beautifully embroidered dresses were impossible to miss.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Layering was high on the agenda at the Calvin Klein SS15 show. Knitted midi dresses were worn over sheer skirts, and two-tone culottes were peeking out of long-line vest tops. Francisco Costa presented a collection perfect for both chilly spring mornings and hot summer nights – light pieces were perfectly juxtaposed with cosy garments. The colour palette was, in true Calvin Klein fashion, clean and sophisticated with navy blue, blood red, shimmering cream and pure black dominating the show. Metallic minidresses looked exquisite paired with towering platforms and a clasp belt, while models strutting down the catwalk in flowing, white gowns epitomised the collection's versatility.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting a rockabilly aesthetic, the Diesel Black Gold SS15 collection exuded youthful playfulness. The silhouettes were simple yet eye-catching, while black, white and variations of red dominated the colour scheme. Models strolled down the catwalk in slip and skater dresses with a star print, tiny crop tops, high-waisted pants and skirts with zippers, and studded jackets. Leather clutch bags, belts and pointy flats were the accessories of choice; the hair and make-up were kept simple and to the point.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
Scugnizzi by Brett Lloyd
‘Scugnizzi’, the title of photographer Brett Lloyd’s new book, refers to the local kids in Naples who spend their summers hanging out on the city’s poorest beaches.
The Neapolitans are far from shy; they embrace themselves and their bodies, making for perfect photographic subjects. Over two summers, Lloyd captured these youths and their older peers, creating a catalogue of alluring, emotive and highly personal mementos.
‘Scugnizzi’, published by 'Dashwood Books NYC', will be launched on 10 December, 2014, at the ‘Donlon Books’ in London.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
Bally Spring/Summer 2015 Collections
Bally has presented its women's and men's Spring/Summer 2015 collections. Imbued with soft, feminine lines and a modern edge and inspired by stylish ladies like Nicole Phelps, Miroslava Duma and Sally Singer, the women's collection is all about chic, wearable everyday pieces, characterised by relaxed silhouettes. There's flirty A-line midi skirts and fine maxi coats, tailored pants and boxy tops. Slouchy boyfriend jeans are paired with cool long-line blazers. A tiny leather skirt is worn with a white shirt and over-the-knee python boots, evoking a strong '60s vibe.
With rolled-up jeans, leather bombers, dandy suits and polished footwear, the men's offering delivers the same kind of effortless cool, plus a nonchalant attitude. Double denim is complemented by a taupe coat; a roll-neck knit is peeking out of a navy suit jacket. Oversized bags and smart accessories add the finishing touches.
Hotel Zoo, Berlin
Berlin's Hotel Zoo has re-opened its doors following a massive two-year renovation. With 145 rooms and suites and splendid interiors courtesy of acclaimed American designer Dayna Lee, the legendary hotel, first opened in 1911, is ready to once again shine in full splendour.
Today, the newly-reborn residence boasts a plethora of welcoming relaxation areas: a rooftop terrace, the atmospheric 'Grace Bar', a winter garden and the 'Living Room' – an awe-inspiring space with decadent floor-to-ceiling windows and plush furniture. Thanks to Ms. Lee's sophisticated eye for detail, luxury design elements such as a jade-coloured carpet by Diane von Fürstenberg and Maison Martin Margiela-designed room accents add the perfect finishing touches to Hotel Zoo's magnetic ambience.
Hiroshi Sugimoto: Still Life at Pace London
Sugimoto, Hiroshi: Pinon - Juniper Forest, 2012 gelatin silver print 47" x 67-1/2" (119.4 cm x 171.5 cm) © Hiroshi Sugimoto, courtesy of The Pace Gallery
Pace London will present seventeen large-scale photographs from Japanese-born conceptual artist Hiroshi Sugimoto's ongoing 'Diorama' series. Realised between 1976 and 2012, the spectacular shots appear to be elaborate portraits of the natural world. Instead, the hyper-realistic images were taken in natural history museums, revealing the exceptional yet unlikely beauty of dioramas.
“The first time I saw a diorama I was overwhelmed by the fragility of existence that it captured. Being models of nature, dioramas include many of the world’s constituent parts,” Sugimoto wrote. “The only thing absent is life itself. Time comes to a halt and never-ending stillness reigns.”
'Polar Bear', the first photograph from the series, was produced nearly forty years ago, after the artist, who has resided in New York since 1974, visited the American Museum of Natural History for the first time. Coming full circle, Sugimoto returned to the museum in 2012 and executed a series of shots that reveal the photographer's idea of what the world will look like once all animal life has gone extinct.
Hiroshi Sugimoto: Still Life 21 November, 2014 – 24 January, 2015
Sugimoto, Hiroshi: California Condor, 1994 gelatin silver print 47" x 73" (119.4 cm x 185.4 cm) © Hiroshi Sugimoto, courtesy of The Pace Gallery
Sugimoto, Hiroshi: Northern Spruce - Fir Forest, 2012 gelatin silver print 47" x 73" (119.4 cm x 185.4 cm) © Hiroshi Sugimoto, courtesy of The Pace Gallery
Sugimoto, Hiroshi: Galapagos, 1980 gelatin silver print 47" x 83" (119.4 cm x 210.8 cm) © Hiroshi Sugimoto, courtesy of The Pace Gallery
Giorgio Armani Opens New Store in Hamburg
Giorgio Armani has opened a new store in Hamburg, Germany. The two-storey boutique, located on the exclusive Neuer Wall, covers almost 400 square meters of retail space. On the ground floor, women's accessories and ready-to-wear collections are displayed, while the upper floor boasts a selection of quality menswear. The Giorgio Armani Made to Measure room, dedicated to the fine art of tailoring, can also be found there.
Located on the cool Torstrasse, a recently emerged fashion hub in Berlin's exhilarating Mitte district, No74, adidas' first select store worldwide, is an exciting mix of old and new, art and trends. The spacious spot, opened in 2008, carries an exclusive, hand-picked selection of statement fashion, beloved footwear and bold sportswear by such adidas brands as Y-3 and adidas by Stella McCartney in addition to special collaborative and limited edition efforts.
The store will definitely impress with its creative atmosphere and contemporary interiors that characterise not only No74, but its London (No6) and Paris (No42) sister stores as well.
Launch of the 10th Anniversary - Berlin Issue
ZOO Magazine, in association with Jaguar, commemorated the release of its landmark 10th anniversary edition, The Berlin Issue, under the glorious surroundings of the dinosaur hall at Berlin’s Museum für Naturkunde. Joining the festivities, the evening was graced by the company of some very special guests from the world of fashion, film and the arts – not to mention, treasured cultural figureheads from the honored city, to a live soundtrack provided by Henry de Winter and Dez Mona.
See all images here
Monsoon Capsule Collection by senz6
Dutch umbrella enthusiasts senz6 have presented three fresh pieces in the new 'Monsoon' capsule collection. The exciting models – SKY VIEW, SUMI BLACK and CANVAS KHAKI – designed by Japanese visionary Yoske Nishiumi, will effectively protect you from rain, and do so in style. The lightweight models are available as both small automatic and stick umbrellas, and, just like all senz6 products, will withstand wind speeds of up to 100km/h, thanks to their unique, patented shape.
Barry Reigate: One Cannot Get Fingerprints From a Rock at Reflex Gallery
Barry Reigate: Untitled (MPP=9) 210x150cm Acrylic, oil, spraypaint, crayon, pencil, varnish,airbrush, dirt & beeswax on canvas - 2013
Mixing iconic pop culture imagery with geometric shapes, Barry Reigate's latest work, presented at the Reflex Gallery in Amsterdam, is thought-provoking and amusing, graphic and eclectic. “I’m interested in the idea of when to stop… Culture as excess of survival, airbrushing comic wolves and pigs, to pay the rent,” says the London-born artist about his first solo show in the BeNeLux. Within a number of pieces, Mr. Reigate expresses his fondness for the wolf motif and incorporates unlikely nature references. “The wolf was sourced from an advert; the wood structure is from the Smurfs, a machine that makes ‘things’,” he says. The exhibition also emphasises the artist's talent and passion for drawing. “My drawings are like a train of subconscious thought, images put down from exterior thoughts/ideas from outside the studio. They come out from a state of boredom. The closest association is the idea of drawing on the covers of academic books, when you are bored at school. Like a form of escape.”
One Cannot Get Fingerprints From a Rock: 4 October – 6 December 2014
Barry Reigate will be present to sign his new book during Amsterdam Art Weekend, 28 – 30 November 2014
Barry Reigate: Untitled 2014 Acrylic, oil paint, spray paint, airbrush, pencil and eggshell on linen 73 x 62 cm
Boris Bidjan Saberi Opens New York Flagship
Barcelona-based luxury brand Boris Bidjan Saberi opened its first standalone location during New York Fashion Week. Situated in Lower Manhattan, the roomy 2,100 square foot space was custom-designed, creating a unique and intimate atmosphere.
The modern spot houses the most complete stock of Boris Bidjan Saberi's men's and women's ready-to-wear collections and accessories. Beloved pieces such as the J1 Oiled Bock Leather Jacket and Waxed/Pressed/Resinated Jeans are available exclusively at the store.
Speaking about the location of the brand's first flagship, Boris Bidjan Saberi, designer and founder, said, “New York is a city that is very close to the energy of our own brand. Urban and edgy, powerful but refined.”
Bally Introduces Function & Modernity
Bally, the Swiss luxury clothing and accessories brand, has launched its first digital magazine, Function & Modernity. Edited by acclaimed journalist Thomas Erber, the design, lifestyle and travel platform is the next step in broadening the brand's commitment to art and design.
“Function and Modernity goes further than a branding blog. With this platform we want to inspire our readers and share our passion for all things that make life more beautiful like design, architecture and lifestyle,” said Anne Marie Gaultier, Vice President of Global Marketing and Communications.
John Galliano Takes Over Creative Direction at Maison Martin Margiela
Photo: Patrick Demarchelier, courtesy of OTB
John Galliano has joined Maison Martin Margiela as creative director, it's been confirmed. The appointment is set mark the beginning of a new era for the conceptual fashion house.
Renzo Rosso, President of OTB, the parent company of Maison Martin Margiela and other iconic luxury brands such as Diesel, Marni and Viktor&Rolf, said: “Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul. John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time. A unique, exceptional couturier for a Maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that Fashion Dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home.”
Kaviar Gauche at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For SS15, Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, the design duo behind Kaviar Gauche, presented a feminine and chic collection. Powdery shades of ivory, vanilla, ecru and melba dominated the elegant colour palette, while the silhouettes were kept easy and effortless. Delightful looks were created by teaming light garments with slightly rougher pieces; a flowing floor-length tulip skirt, for example, looked ravishing when worn with a relaxed mesh top. A similar effect was achieved when a model walked down the catwalk in an intricate jumpsuit complemented by a translucent maxi cape. Just add a gold statement accessory, and you'll definitely have the winning look.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
KENZO's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim know exactly what's in these days. For SS15, the design duo presented a collection that was highly referential (skater culture, the '90s), but also extremely now. The offering had many fitted pieces, yes, but it was the slouchy silhouette (and a washed-out colour palette) that truly dominated the show. An oversized throw-on coat, for instance, was worn over a stripy pyjama shirt, while youthful and normcore-esque compilations were created by pairing baggy zip-up jackets with flared jeans or flowy skirts.
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting the last-ever ready-to-wear collection to focus instead on haute couture and his growing perfume empire, Jean Paul Gaultier went out with a bang. With more than 70 looks on the catwalk, the renowned and beloved French designer revisited the iconic cone bra, played with and rejected mainstream ideas of masculinity and femininity and put on the kind of pageant-themed spectacle that only the enfant terrible could. From pinstripe suits to elaborate boxing masks to everything in between, the SS15 show was both playful and serious, loud and intricate. With exaggerated, over-the-top wigs, models impersonated fashion's leading ladies: Grace Coddington, Suzy Menkes, Franca Sozzani and Carine Roitfeld. Your ready-to-wear shows will be missed, Mr. Gaultier.
Moschino at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Jeremy Scott has excellent showmanship skills. Last season, he transported us to a fast-food restaurant. This time, however, it was all about Barbies and pink and massive wigs and roller skates. The collection had a lot of IT pieces: cute, little knits in bubblegum pink and neon green, a blue skirt-suit with an actual bikini attached to it and even an embellished towel dress. Alien-esque evening gowns with oversized ruffles were shown at the end, ensuring a bold and unforgettable finale.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Miuccia Prada is known for her unique approach and clear vision when it comes to creating fascinating and thought-provoking collections; her clothes are often puzzling and unordinary, yet always spectacularly well-made. The SS15 offering was no exception: on the surface, garments appeared roughly pieced together and lived-in. Delicate knits were worn under faded leather coats or over decadent blouses. Hems were left unfinished, almost as if by accident. But when it comes to Ms. Prada's work, nothing is ever accidental.
Costume National at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For SS15, Costume National's Ennio Capasa delivered a collection reminiscent of the late '60s and early '70s. Inspired by rock 'n' roll legends Mick Jagger, Marianne Faithfull and Anita Pallenberg, Mr. Capasa presented an array of garments for the “free spirited woman of today”. Chocolatey suede was laser cut into intricate minis, fringed separates and slouchy bags. Floor-length maxi skirts were teamed with asymmetrical high-neck tops in pitch black. Scarves were tied around models' necks, thus furthering the boho chic aesthetic.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Go big, or go home. PHILIPP PLEIN's SS15 offering, titled Abyss Apocalypse, was bold and extravagant. Inspired by the ocean and its abysses, the collection offered a range of silhouettes and a bright colour palette: from '50s-inspired dresses to embellished sweatshirts, there was something for everyone. Vivid shades of red, yellow and blue were incorporated in most of the looks; the show was an irresistible feast for the eyes. “In a time of virtuality, fashion should speak a spectacular and overwhelming language of extreme reality,” Mr. Plein said about his designs. And he's probably right.
Converse Announces Fall 2014 All Star Back Zip Collection
What would sneakers do? Presents the question that Converse answers through their innovation and creative new collection. Featuring new silhouettes and elevated detailing, the Converse Fall 2014 collection embodies a youthful spontaneity that remains prevalent in all Converse collections and provides a sleek yet edgy design.
Consisting of the Chuck Taylor All Star Back Zip and Chuck Taylor All Star Tri Zip, the sneakers fuse the classic Converse silhouette with beading and waxed lace detailing and are available in a variety of color palettes ranging from pink, black and navy to oxheart, portrait gray and red. The sneakers illustrate the sneaker attitude while providing a unique interpretation of a classic shoe.
To promote the new collection Converse have announced Sneakers Would, a multi – city series of stimulating opportunities throughout Europe that will encourage individuals to choose an exciting, spur of the moment path. Inspired by the rebellious nature of the famous Chuck Taylor All Star, Sneakers Would launched in Berlin on August 31st and will appear unannounced in London, Paris, Barcelona, Madrid and Amsterdam during September and October.
Sneakers Would will be channelled through The Ticket, an all access pass that allows online Converse fans the chance to access exciting ‘now or never’ opportunities in their cities. Speaking of the project Rodney Rambo, VP Marketing for Converse All Star stated “We’re excited to bring the Converse SNEAKERS WOULD experience to Europe. The Chuck Taylor has been a symbol of youthful spontaneity for almost 100 years, and we love that it continues to inspire people to follow their hearts and live in the moment.”
The collection is available for purchase now.
Tom Ford at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Tom Ford's SS15 show was far from conservative. Models sported messy bed hair and a chic smokey eye, all the while rocking some very revealing – and breathtaking – numbers. Glistening embellishments on a barely-there baby-doll dress created an eye-catching mosaic effect. A black satin pant was worn confidently with a see-through top, with adornments covering the models's breasts and, ironically, her arms. The look was completed by a wide chocker/neck piece, an accessory seen throughout the show. The rock 'n' roll aesthetic was kept intact with a fringed jacket and mini skirt combo, while some of the less revealing looks such as a pair of metallic bell bottoms worn with a skin-tight top in emerald green showed less skin, but were just as fun.
BOSS, HUGO BOSS at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Jason Wu's sophomore offering for BOSS was sleek and compelling. Even the tiniest detail was carefully thought through, and nothing looked out of place. The tailoring was sharp, with menswear references seeping through the collection; be it a crisp white shirt neatly tucked into a textured skirt or a tailored leather jacket paired with a matching skirt, every piece in the SS15 collection oozed sophistication. Even the dresses – sheaths or a slinky black number with a deep V neck – epitomised the powerful BOSS woman.