Ermenegildo Zegna launches Bespoke Atelier
March 15th 2017, marks a pivotal stage for Ermenegildo Zegna, as it announces the opening of the first Bespoke Atelier. The space is dedicated to the label’s bespoke service and is locate at the top floor of the Zegna building in Milan’s renowned via Montenapoleone.
The stand-alone project revolves around the idea of intimate elegance with a distinctly Milanese feel and treats its bespoke services with a precise ritual. The experience begins right at the entrance where clients are welcomed by a valet and ushered in the Atelier which is conceived to comply with aesthetics and functionality of traditional tailoring ateliers: an apartment cum workshop with the public and working areas connected yet separable.
The large space is furnished with both vintage and new pieces as well as pieces that hark back to Zegna’s very own history. Warmth and charm intermingle with a domestic feel making this a truly unique tailoring experience that strengthens the dialogue between the Milanese brand and its customer base of men of discerning taste who aim to have their wardrobe made according tot heir own desires, demands and lifestyles.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017
Declinations of deconstructed silhouettes in shades of black. Pleated, wrapped, twisted. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017 celebrates the roots of the acclaimed Japanese master himself in all the aspects that have been constantly accompanying his vision.
Forty-four looks of pure architectural shapes, and virtuosic silhouettes in a crescendo of emotions. As Yamamoto once again recorded his own guitar playing for the show music, it’s almost as if we could see him, in his home, sitting down and casually strumming his acoustic guitar, in search for fragments of time, emotions, images. Singing about a woman, the archetype of the woman itself.
And it’s the search for the perfect balance of draping around the female body the protagonist of the collection. The gracious volumes protruding along the figure with bias cut, deconstructed, rigorously in black with hand-painted splash of purple and blue. Painting has always been a beautiful obsession for the Japanese designer and we know he would never refrain from expressing the refuse to use print patterns.
The collection synthesizes magnetically these feelings of attachments to identity and the exciting search for the new. Yohji Yamamoto showed once again the unconditional pure beauty of staying true to oneself.
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Marina Abramovic - The Cleaners
Marina Abramovic, one of the most recognised artists of our time, has often utilised her body and the concept of presence as her primary artistic media. Her self-exposure as a means of artistic expression has garnered her criticism and praise in equal measure. Controversial as she may be, her work has earned her a place in the spotlight, a place that she continues to uphold to this day.
Abramovic's first major retrospective in Europe, entitled The Cleaner is being housed in Stockholm's Moderna Museet. It presents several of her best-known performances, including the Relation Works with German artist as well as former collaborator and partner, Ulay. The works take the form of live performances, films, installations and photographs dating back to the 70s and taking us all the way to the present day. Early paintings, and works on paper – some of them exhibited for the very first time – are also part of the exhibition.
A tumultuous childhood and an upbringing rife with religious and revolutionary undertones, shaped the Belgrade-born artist's worldview and played a pivotal, highly influential role in her career. Her work seeks to decipher and explore complex concepts such loss, memory, being and pain. Abramovic doesn't shy away from existential questions and interprets them in ways that may both provoke and move her audiences, delving deep into both the physical and the mental pain threshold in her own unique way. In The Lovers (1988) Abramovic and Ulay undertook a 90-day walk from opposite ends of the Great Wall of China. Their halfway meeting marked the end of their love affair and more than ten-year partnership.
A selection of the artist's performance works will be re-performed in the exhibition by specially-trained performance artists who will lend their talents to works such as Cleaning the Mirror (1995) where one person carefully scrubs clean a human skeleton in a confrontation with morality, Freeing Series (1975) where voice, memory and body are set free, and Art Must Be Beatiful, Artists Must be Beautiful (1975) where the same phrase and actions are repeated obsessively, almost like an incantation.
A new work by Abramovic, in collaboration with Lynsey Peisinger will also be performed at the Moderna Museet's Eric Ericson Hall from the 27th of February to the 5th of March.
The exhibition will run from the 18th of February to the 21st of May 2017.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
Paul Smith Menswear Fall/Winter 2017
Paul Smith is one of the few brands that gives you the feeling of security, of home and the certainty of effortless style.
With its timeless tailoring, the classic yet fun twistS in textiles and cuts, for his Fall/Winter 2017 Sir Paul Smith presented Menswear and Womenswear together. It was a storm of several declinations of what it could be Paul Smith now, and how any person, especially young, could sport it. Lush checked classic English fabrics, for men and women, silk dresses both in solid colours and printed with hundreds of feathers as taken from a XIX century treatise on naturalia.
Paul Smith with his masterly style showed us how we can wear a shearling short jacket over a suit. Or how a woman can sport a deep blue velvet suit and look so sexy. Coral, blue, green, khaki, grey: a colourful palette true to the brand’s signature identity. We particularly loved the relaxed blazer suits – womens’ were long, below the hips - and the coats over them, for him and her, a full dive into that Smith heritage of effortless elegance.
OFF WHITE Fall/Winter 2017
“The show is real” Virgil Abloh told us backstage after the show. Real and now, much like the urge to touch the everyday life of many in various forms. For OFF-WHITE Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection Abloh stood up for a new chapter of the brand. Oversized outwear gives way to tailored silhouettes. The extreme youthful approach is now moving into a more grownup vision.
The spectacular set design featuring real fading leaves and shedding trees inside the harsh concrete brutalist UNESCO building, wraps the collection in a surreal atmosphere. As we walk inside the venue we feel overwhelmed by this recreated landscape. It almost urges you to just take a stroll and roll in what looks like a wintery park’s forgotten route.
Checked coats with embroidered foliage, denim printed with flying doves and adorned with golden leaves by London based jeweller Duffy. Exquisite knitwear permeates the whole collection, both for men and women, featuring the brand’s signature bar logo. In all its wearability Seeing Things – as named by Abloh - is a romantic and ambitious collection yet staying true to OFF-WHITE’s identity rooted in the streets.
A new way of seeing, as resonating in the words of British writer John Berger’s Ways of Seeing, was chosen as the opening narration for the show: “The images has come to you, you don’t go to them. The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now”.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
Vivienne Westwood summer trip to the Mediterranean
The Mediterranean has always served as a source of inspiration for poets and artists. A symbol of eternal beauty, of endless summers. A beauty that many have attempted to explain with words but that is better left to feelings and emotions.
Andreas Kronthaler's Spring/Summer 2017 'Europa' collection for Vivienne Westwood is a case in point. The collection is an ode to the Mediterranean's laid-back summer vibes and evokes images of sandy beaches, sunsets by the sea and days spent in nothing more than a bikini. But much like everything that bear's Vivienne Westwood's signature, there's a political statement to be read between the lines: 'Europa' is a continent in crisis, struggling to come to grips with the humanitarian crisis of mass migration, an issue that stains its reputation but somehow doesn't distract from its charm.
Legendary photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in Greece, with the picturesque white houses and blue waters serving as the perfect backdrop. Showcasing the garments as well as the scenery beautifully, Teller also managed to highlight the Mediterranean's grotesque facade with a mixture of sophistication and grunge very synonymous with the Vivienne Westwood brand.
Former sex-symbol Pamela Anderson features in the campaign providing a contrast that also links to the power of Mother Nature. The result is simple and delicious, just like a plate of spaghetti.
Kenzo Fall/Winter Menswear 2017
Imagine the backstage of a show brought on stage, in the spotlight, able to witness it at 360°, as in Walter Gropius’s Total Theatre: from the make-up to the models line-up, from the food banquet to the backstage photographers roaming around, from the seamstress fixing the last detail seconds before the start to the laughs between models.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created this unexpected backdrop for Kenzo Menswear and Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection in the name of the environment, making clothes the real stars of the runway and leaving the backdrop in its neutrality in order to give funds to environment organizations instead of making a wonderful yet costly set.
A vision that was reflected all over this Arctic inspired collection. The triggering Arctic changes and the – unknown to many – Arctic surfing were, indeed, the paths followed by Leon and Lim who presented a multitude of over-layered looks in an impressive colour palette. It was overwhelming and, as Kenzo’s signature, fun and youthful.
The dip-dyed long knits in rainbow colours with matching ski masks worn under solid coloured puffa jackets and graphic digitally printed technical ski suits.
The Womenswear collection followed up in a more gentle and feminine declination. We saw easy urban long cable knit dresses, A –line coats, teddy handbags and delicate dresses with transversal side cuts, revealing floating strings, as a sort of intellectual reference to the increasingly undergoing destruction of our Mother Earth.
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Invictus and Olympéa Intense: Paco Rabanne’s divine fragrances
Radical, free, avant-garde. These codes are at the core of Paco Rabanne both in fashion and scents. Invictus and Olympéa Intense are the ultimate unconventional and open to fantasy scents representing two exceptional figures that together create an explosive encounter.
Invictus is man in all his force, robustly pure and athletic. It plays on the shock between blazing amber woods and a marine “salty skin” accord, in a woody-fresh wake. Green-aromatic laurel leaf and orange blossom electrified by notes of black pepper are added to give an intensified, sensual effect. The bottle, dark and sculptural, represents what the Invictus man is all about: an infallible hero who never gives in, a God on earth.
Olympéa empowers women by taking sensuality up a notch. Salty vanilla wrapped up in cashmere wood is at the base of the scent enriched by a duel in which opposites attract. On one side a floral pulse given by white pepper, orange flower and grapefruit blossom. On the other, the warmth of white amber and cedar wood. A glass circular bottle in metal colors represents the perfect construction between geometrical strength and curves, embodying the sacred female of Olympéa, the divine queen.
Nike Air Max 97: the Silver side of Italians
As the homeland of prêt-à-porter, Italy has always introduced new ways of fashion appreciation that we've all emulated at some point or another. Nike's 'La Silver' sneaker has been, and remains to this day, a strong example of this very concept.
When this sneaker made its first appearance in the fashion market in 1997, it failed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward Italians. It was snubbed, regarded as ugly, weird, otherworldly even. For others, those were La Silver's winning characteristics, making this model the star of 20th century footwear trends in Italy.
For a decade, its ostentatious shine and sleek lines made it a staple in many young Italians' Christmas wish lists. As a symbol of Italian gabber dancing culture and futurism, this sneaker was offered in colour variations that never went unnoticed. It wasn't long before La Silver had snuck its way into the hearts and wardrobes of both fashion addicts and proponents of a more 'chav chic' aesthetic.
Straight out of its homeland, “La Silver” by Nike is back on the market after 20 years. This makes us wonder: is this a new icon for this generation or a mere throwback for those who were there from the start?
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Blind for Love book: the latest Gucci’s treat
Nick Waplington and his unfiltered camera have been enlisted by Gucci to bring the brand's latest project, Blind For Love by Gucci, to life.
Alessandro Michele’s Cruise 2017 collection, presented last June in London's Westminster Abbey, will be the star of the coffee table book for all the designer’s affectionate disciples. Candid and behind-the-scene pictures, from one of the Michele's most memorable fashion shows, will capture the fresh touch of the young designer, who is expanding the Italian brand’s horizons.
The British photographer Nick Waplington, who in past years signed the “Working Process” book with Alexander McQueen, is ready to surprise again with this fashion reportage dedicated to the English punk-rock culture.
Blind for Love tells the story of Waplington’s visionary taste and Gucci’s know-how, all in one book. It's the story of what’s behind the glittering world of fashion, a story that will turn everyone…Blind for Gucci.
The TOUCH revolution by Replay
Rich and inviting fabrics, smoothness and stretch materials: the focal points of Replay's new disruptive jeans: TOUCH
The brand's revolutionary jeans promise to fulfill the needs of modern women by allowing them to feel comfortable, sexy and elegant in jeans that don't crease and are available in a selection of colors, washes and cuts.
The advertising campaign will feature supermodels Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls and Stella Maxwell personifying women going about their daily routines in order to highlight the practicality of Replay's TOUCH jeans range.
Palazzo Versace opens in Dubai
Italian luxury made a step forward with the grand opening of Palazzo Versace Hotel & Resort in the heart of Dubai Cultural Village, introducing the Milanese brand’s experience to the emirates.
After sixteen years, Versace has decided to give birth to its second resort property celebrating it with a grand opening event on November that was hosted by Donatella Versace herself. Donatella has exclusively designed the furniture and interiors for all 215 rooms, creating the ultimate luxury experience in the brand’s history.
Located on the foreshore of the Dubai Creek, this five-star property evokes the architecture of a 16th century Italian palace with traces of Arabian taste, featuring wonderful suites furnished with Versace Home Collection products, first-class spa and restaurants combining brand’s extravagant taste with the highest quality of service.
Straight from the Parisian runways, models like Alessandra Ambrosio, Helena Christensen and Natasha Poly among with Versace’s couturiers, personally presented their couture collection to the Emirates clientele. For this exclusive occasion, a portion of the orders has been donated from the brand to the Dubai Cares Organization to help improving primary education for children in developing countries.
Versace’s founder Donatella found herself amazed by the final result defining Palazzo Versace as a “truly luxury destination second to none in the world”.
Amsterdam welcomes Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship and keen eye for detail, opens its much-anticipated first store in Amsterdam tonight. Located on 60, Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat, the two-floor store offers a wide selection of Bottega Veneta products: the brand's iconic bags and leather goods, the ready-to-wear collection as well as accessories for both men and women. An embodiment of Bottega Veneta's timeless elegance and refinement, the store's concept was designed by brand creative director, Tomas Maier and features an array of notable features guaranteed to provide visitors with a private and comfortable shopping experience.
Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
There is a certain challenge overflowing when taking a look at Rei Kawakubo’s work. The naked message that actually she continues to profound through her clothes every season is pointing at only one direction: creativity avulse from compromising. Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 is exploring again the sense of human being itself. “Invisible clothes”, as Kawakubo stated in the show note. Clothes inside huge armoires, gargantuan silhouettes that allowed to pick what it looked like a pregnant belly, or just the eyes of the model. Like a cocoon where the hidden self resides. The sculptural garments sometimes fascinated with early renaissance had the power of overwhelming austerity. A black parade with moments of Kawakubo leitmotif: the crimson red, the ruffles, the polka dots.
Emporio Armani store and Caffé Paris redesigned
Spread across four floors, windows facing the boulevard of Rive Gauche; 149 Boulevard St. Germain welcomes the reopening of the Emporio Armani store and Emporio Armani Caffè. With white walls, black stone floors and radiant glass sculptures, the new vision for the airy boutique is inspired by flowing weightlessness, inviting customers to browse freely and uncover the world of Armani; it’s clothing, EA7 sportswear and accessories. “I worked on a new concept, airy and flowing, that surrounds and guides visitors while enhancing the product. At the same time, I find it essential to refine every aspect of the brand’s lifestyle,” says Giorgio Armani. The Emporio Armani Caffè is just as welcoming, with a seating area and terrace open all year around on the ground floor. On the first floor sits the restaurant and lounge area, with walls dressed in metallic coated leather and clear glass boards separating the kitchen and the wine stock, adding to the open space effect.
Balenciaga Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have seen it for quite some time now. Big shoulders, oversized garments tightened on the waist and the crazy most wanted item by stylists: the sock-boots. It’s the Demna Gvasalia fever. Bringing in some of the hot themes that punched Vetements to the top, Gvasalia explored that aesthetic for Balenciaga Spring Summer 2017 collection, staying true to his vision. As the boot elevates now till the waist becoming a pant all in one, the trench coats and jackets have a sharper silhouette and 80s shoulders line boned. The lavish bejewelled draped tops in one of the most un-couture material – Spandex, the vivid palette of flowers prints and the latex capes with hoods reinforced that fetish underground 80s vibes. For its second collection as creative director at the iconic French house, the young designer stepped away from that boxy look of last season to create a sleek architecture, conferring an even more powerful effect. It’s a vocabulary that Gvasalia knows well and used it since its work at Maison Martin Margiela. Pushing boundaries, elevating streetculture mixed now with the intelligent subtle reference to Balenciaga heritage.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Layered scarves to form long dresses so light you could fly and the bond to that cool atmosphere that Acne built its history on.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 is experimenting once again away from the brand roots reflecting the aim of the house to grow on the luxury level. We saw oversized beautiful knitwear inspired by African blankets with unfinished look. Pulled threads and raw hems, with earth colours conferring that cool look to more tailored and minimalist pieces.
The Denim is one of the key items. Stone washed and then deep dyed offering a soft touch and beautiful colours as of pale gems. Denim dungarees and coats inspired by kimonos with paisley or flower embroidery ton sur ton combined with scarves hanging from the waist. But also the evergreen Acne look of beautiful and contemporary suits.
Fresh, relaxed and youthful. A summer spent in Amalfi coast, a sunset on a boat wearing just a long dress and a sun-kissed skin. Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson impressed us with his ability to bring new air keeping Acne’s deep identity.
Scotch & Soda’s “Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam”
A map that’ll help you getting lost and explore the hidden greatness of Amsterdam: an innovative way to discover the places Google doesn’t suggest. Scotch & Soda presents the Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam, an newspaper-zine available in stores and the online app from mid-October. Visual artist Jan Rothuizen and journalist Fiona Hering roam around the city with well-known influencers in the creative fields music, fashion, business and art, the so-called “Misguiders”. For its first edition, the Misguiders five Amsterdam “un-tips” and further includes a redrawn and reimagined Amsterdam by Rothuizen and pictures of the Misguiders by photographer Mounir Raji. For its launch, Papersmith studio artist Mandy Smith created an origami garment made from the zine.
Adam Kakembo, CMO of Scotch & Soda, says: “Nowadays, we don’t go anywhere offline without fully exploring online first: then we know exactly what to expect when we get there. With the “The Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam” we want to spark curiosity and rediscover the forgotten art of personal discovery.”
Gucci Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Resurging against a tide of tepid good taste, it seems collectively we’ve been revelling with childish glee at the sheer unpredictability of Gucci’s new mood – an exercise in indulgence, ostentation and unbridled eccentricity. Of course, SS17 stands a season that was defined by its very volatility; fashion houses would fast-forward the commerce of their catwalk goods, while others would lie in wait in lieu of constant Creative Directors. In the wake of all this uncertainty, one thing was assured; Alessandro Michele would deliver a line-up to fawn over. And that he did, from the first look to the last. Candy colors collided in a charged kaleidoscope of powder pink and pea green, clipped tailored cuts topped by rose turbans, while separates eschewed all the fustiness of jacquard with the glitzy glaze of lurex. Frills spilled down ruffled bibs as aristocratic outlines reigned, from pigeon-breast blouses to ball gowns bolstered by mutton sleeves, arriving via the disco as decadent tradition took a trip for tinsel. All were stitched by the insignia that serves the signature of Gucci’s new sovereign, an eclectic embroidery of exotic animals, love hearts and sweet slogans, artfully patched across tulle smocks, fuzzy fun-fur coats and snakeskin hardware in an exuberant stream of consciousness. This is the doorway to the mind of a man with the imagination of a boy. Little of Michele’s world makes logical sense, but why live in the world when you can live in your head? We’re just thankful he invited us in.
Swarovski for Peter Lindbergh
The exhibition Peter Lindbergh – A different Vision on Fashion Photography has announced Swarovski as their Golden Partner as they tour internationally. Curated in the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, the exhibition highlights the photographer’s influence on the fashion industry and him challenging the preconceived notion of beauty, spread across nine sections in the gallery including Dance, Supermodels and Icons. Four of Lindbergh’s fine art prints put on display are embellished with Swarovski Crystals, as well as a Swarovski Crystal Rocks platform including the photographer’s famous alien costume. “Lindbergh’s democratic vision is expressed in partnership with Swarovski, who have generously supported this project and share the same humanist values as Lindbergh,” says curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot.
NEU NOW Festival 2016
60 emerging talented artists from 18 different countries and a programme filled with design, architecture, performance, film, music and artist talks. The 8th edition of NEU NOW festival will open from 14th to the 18th September, located at the Westergasfabriek. The international art festival celebrates upcoming creatives and spawns career opportunities, providing support for imminent artists throughout the year. On the night of the 17th, in collaboration with Warteiner, the European League of Institutes of the Arts' initiative NEU NOW invites visitors to a late-night programme with drink and music, provided by deadHYPE and Jo Goes Hunting.
BALLY AW16 Campaign
Emerging London based photographer Jack Davison captures youthful eccentricities in the BALLY AW16 campaign, featuring a dynamic cast of eight models, including the Guinevere Van Seenus, Finnlay Davis and Dutch model Ina Maribo Jensen. The images portray the nature of an artists’ studio in the 70s. As Davison seizes the individual and different personalities, he is also able to unite them in their spirit, prominent in current and future BALLY collections. “What fascinates me about Jack’s work is his ability to capture intimacy in his portraits; because it is about real emotions," Design Director Pablo Coppola says of the collaboration with the young photographer, while Davison reveals; “I trust in the moment, go into the situation and let myself be guided by my instincts.”
MARC O'POLO DENIM Campaign Fall/Winter 2016
The latest MARC O’POLO DENIM campaign presents a new and young generation, boosting with confidence, creativity and translates the brands’ DENIM collection in their own way. Bruce Weber’s pupil Sean Thomas knew how to accurately illustrate this generation, while stylist Ursina Gysi created the modern looks. Following on from the last campaign, shown at the heart of the images is the metropolitan climate of Paris – unconventional, natural and multicultural.
Diesel Black Gold Resort 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has mixed an early nineties mood with Diesel Black Gold’s known utilitarian style, creating Resort 2017. Styled with gladiator boots and black pointy biker shoes to keep a clean cut and metropolitan spirit, the collection adapts new proportions that allow masculine shapes to appeal more feminine. Layering of skirts over long shirts, off-the-shoulder biker jackets and poplin dresses are this seasons’ statement look. For its men’s collection, Melbostad experiments with parachute trousers made from trench fabric, but keeps a utilitarian feel with bomber and denim jackets and sweatshirts, a sportswear essential.
Tim Coppens Spring/Summer 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 is for Belgian designer Tim Coppens influenced by traditional Japanese dress, with references as the incorporated judo-style belts and kimono-inspired prints on bomber jackets. The collection also references Coppens’ 90s upbringing and the skate scene with colour blocked sports gear, yet sticks to Coppens’ signature tailoring and use of technical fabrics. Introduced in this collection is Tim Coppens original footwear, a line of structurally cut, leather sneakers. This will be available from next spring.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Fendi Haute Fourrure Collection Fall/Winter 2016/17
Legends and Fairy Tales are the main inspiration for Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection, as Karl Lagerfeld reveals; “I always take inspiration from what is in the air. But this time I especially took inspiration from some illustrations of legends and fairy tales, very romantic and modern at the same time. All the looks have something poetic, but in a very contemporary dimension”. A romantic colour palette of soft pink and whites along with light materials like silk and tulle symbolize a dream. The sunset is portrayed with shades of blue and knitted organza. Black, cashmere and fur portray the dark night sky. 600 hours of expert artisan skills were involved in creating the beautifully applied flower and feather embroideries, which illustrates the Maison’s creativity and expertise.
MBFW: l'VR Isabel Vollrath
Inspired by the Russian “Les Ballets Russes”, on the third day of Berlin Fashion Week we see l’VR Isabel Vollrath’s runway show. Isabel Vollrath is a Berlin Weissensee School of Art graduate, with as main focus showing that fashion is more than just gear. It’s an art form, portrays a culture, visualises a way of thinking. The collection is called “Sacre du Printemps”, which loosely translates as the Ceremony of Spring. Forest sounds start the show, with birds peacefully singing in the background, which is followed by a beat and the first looks layered with tulle. Its colour palette began with pastels and developed into coral and deep navy, while including white and black. It all sits together nicely through the use of oriental prints.
WALTZ Autumn/Winter 2016
San Francisco based women’s wear brand WALTZ’ Autumn/Winter collection for 2016 is available now. Primarily hued in oxblood, rust and midnight blue, the choice in colour palette gives the collection its autumnal feel. The collection includes timeless pieces and wardrobe staples, garments that are versatile and essential. Founded by Danielle Colen, WALTZ is a brand embracing comfort and ease in its designs, with a prominence in quality fabrics and tailoring. WALTZ is influenced by menswear silhouettes and Colen’s affection towards the East Coast, whilst also maintaining a feminine touch and blending California’s mellow vibes.
Atelier Versace Fall 2016
The Fall 2016 Couture shows are happening in Paris right now, where Versace showed its Atelier Fall 2016 collection. “I love the elegance, sophistication and drama of today’s woman. This is a collection that reveals a woman’s power, and her allure”, Donatella Versace reveals of her latest show. The collection portrays elegance and it experiments, with volume and new ways of draping. Evening gowns are paired with tailored trousers and has a certain fluidity to them, as the pleats create a strong silhouette against the body. Jackets graciously fall off the shoulder, the cashmere evening coat is freely embellished with Swarovski crystals and styled on the feet are high heels, detailed with knotted bows of leather falling over the toes.
MBFW: Marina Hoermanseder S/S 2017
Dressing her models in three-dimensional garments, Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 2017 collection at the Berlin Fashion Week reminds of playing dress-up with dolls. Glossy dresses resemble the perfection found in the bodies of plastic puppets. The finishing dress of the collection is definitely the highlight – it looks like the glossy body of a mannequin, a bare body showing breasts and a belly button. A tiny waist and wide hips lead into a stiff knee-length skirt, scalloped at the back and heavily encrusted with a mix of red and white diamonds. The bejeweled dress and corsets are not the only eccentric extra. Butterfly applications on shiny leather tops and dresses give the impression that butterflies are more drawn to settling on a beautiful dress than on a flower.
Some tops are made entirely out of frilly flower applications. There is a girly and playful feel to the collection. It is an interesting progression from last year’s summer collection. Similar straps and belts are still essential elements of coats and dresses, but this time the skirt made entirely out of straps wrapping around the model's legs is boasting of a powerful pink and neon orange. Fiery red, neon peach and hot pink are combined with baby blues and creme colours. Pleated mini skirts and wide legged 3/4 trousers are key to the collection. Neon collars spice up dress shirts. A shiny bomber jacket in a bright orange offers an option for summery outerwear. The plastic feel of the garments is what makes them stand out.
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Nosomnia SS17 Preview
A brand that “develops a hybrid between classical menswear and urban style through innovative ideas and unexpected creation.” Keep your eyes on Copenhagen-based menswear brand Nosomnia, who’s just announced a preview for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection called ‘Every Piece Matters’. The preview is a series of serene, but artistic images shot in a field, capturing the dynamic use of colour in the collection, the embroidered detailing in the garments and the brands nostalgic touch of youth.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
PFW: GIVENCHY SPRING 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 for Givenchy presents an urban, travel collection, blending precise tailoring with hints to signature street style elements. Riccardo Tisci has yet again achieved to create a line-up of attractive attire, with styling immaculately done by Katy England. Models are donned with gelled hair and what looks like ear stretchers. The colour palette shows camouflage colours, striped ensembles and prints including pyramid symbols and the Eye of Providence. Models Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid featured on the runway showing the brands women’s wear.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017
Francesco Ragazzi reveals he looks through the Palm Angels book and choses an image to get inspired, this time one of a skater reminding him of Jimi Hendrix. Ragazzi envisions today’s youth at modern music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella, meeting for their collective love for music and new icons. Palm Angels exhibits this new generation in its latest collection, which is filled with youthful, energetic pieces and gives off a athletic and college vibe.
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: VERSACE SPRING 2017
The Versace Spring 2017 show is opened with a short version of Bruce Weber’s advertising film for the brands Fall 2016 collection, shot during a four-day period with Donatella Versace in Chicago. This heavily influenced her latest collection, as she said ‘when we came back, we designed the collection in five days.’ Layering is key here; sweaters are tied around the waist, ankle-length parkas are paired with cycling shorts, but also throw over clean-cut suits. Donatella Versace paid homage to the late Prince by using one of his original songs, gifted to her by the singer, as soundtrack during the show as well as making an appearance at the end wearing an all-purple suit. Donatella loves changes, as she says: “I want to push Versace forwards, and capture the spirit of individuality and creativity in the men that I love.”
MFW: EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
The Emporio Armani Spring 2017 collection is sleek and sharp, with as main focus present-days meaning of the term identity. The collection envisions the idea of belonging, as some models walk down the runway in groups, whilst encouraging everyone to be themselves. The garments, embroidered and printed with digital imprints, are inspired by athletic attire but are made with fine fabrics. In pure Emporio Armani fashion, the collection stays true to its signature colour palette, including navy and denim blue and fir greens, alongside hints of orange, red and electric blue.
MFW: LES HOMMES SPRING 2017
Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2017 takes its inspiration from the Spanish Conquest of South America.
Belgian design duo Bart Vandebosch and Tom Notte have created a military wear collection with oversized shapes and fit, colour scheme fitting the military theme as mostly green, white and black are used. Models’ ears, noses and lips are pierced and footwear consists of mid-calf black stud-embellished sandals. The collection feels urban yet utilitarian, with golden and silver details in zips hinting to Mayan adornments as well as military elements.
MFW: TOD'S SRING 2017
The Tod’s Spring 2017 collection is shown in a presentation, rather than a runway show. The models are situated in what looks like a resembled living room, enlarged photographs as wallpaper hung as if looking at a Tod’s inspired moodboard. Aesthetic of the collection feels sophisticated and casual. With a minimal colour palette we see tailored pieces, fine suits and its leather jackets brings a sharp edge. The looks are finished with brogues, sneakers and loafers. Tod’s has recently collaborated with French Graphic designer Jean Paul Gaude for his exhibition in Milan’s Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanae called “So Far So Goude.”
Givenchy By Riccardo Tisci Spring 2017
The new Givenchy collection delves into three integrative styles. Introducing and exploring new phrase Skinhead Romantic, influenced by the 90s, the brand mixes pleated tulles and heavy boots. For the traditional Givenchy woman, the brand sticks to their signature style, including tied blouses and monochrome colours. In the urban, metropolitan women's lineup we see exploration of new volumes and silhouettes, blending couture and street style. Women's Denim has a small colour palette, limited to black, white and baby blue. Proposed is a new boyfriend's cut, as well as the brands' signature stars.
The menswear collection is based on the same styles. Men's denim suggests striped jersey layers and small gaps in its jeans and jackets, creating new textures. For the classic man, Riccardo Tisci kept his suits and jackets navy and black, with red accents. The urban side of the collection includes oversized parkas and nylon tracksuits looks. Bomber jackets, sweaters and coats are found in the Skinhead Romantic style, concluding the Givenchy Spring 2017 Pre-Collection. The photography for this campaign is executed by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
LC:M Bobby Abley
A Disney-inspired runway. Theme of Bobby Abley’s collection is fictional character Aladdin, making for a fun and exciting show to watch, whilst also reminiscing to your childhood. The collection sticks to Abley’s signature sport style, with the magic carpet as pattern, jumpers and tees printed with enchanted lamps and slogans like ‘put me the right way’. The designer launched his label in 2012 and had his first show two years later scheduled through fashion initiative MAN at London Collections Men. It’s now grown into a well-established and acknowledged brand, which leaves us to say that Bobby Abley is here to stay.
LC:M Phoebe English
Presenting her men’s collection for the first time at LCM goes in true English’ fashion; models sat in a waiting room, sewing patterns on needle-point canvas to keep them busy, until it’s their time to get up and get pictures taken. The collection of all-natural fabrics, shown in the 180 The Strand Presentation Space, is created using a minimal colour palette, mainly including blue, black and white. Phoebe English revealed she is influenced by her boyfriend and male friends, who generally wear stripes, something which is visible in what she describes this romantic-utilitarian collection.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 Women's Ready-to-Wear Campaign
Anthony Vaccarello showed his natural seductive vibes in his ready-to-wear collection into black and white advertising featuring the Czech model Eva Herzigova. The designer has been inspired by architectural lines and lingerie hardware and the mood is reflective of the collection's natural femininity. The images, shot in black & white, feature iconic model Eva Herzigova walking in a stud farm, outside Paris. For the Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear campaign, Anthony Vaccarello collaborates once again with the Dutch fashion photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is by Alastair McKimm and it is the third season the designer and the two men are collaborating.
Dior Cruise Ready-To-Wear 2017
Blenheim Palace in London is home of the Dior Cruise Ready-to-Wear 2017 collection, creatively led by designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux since Raf Simons' departure late last year. The brand chose to showcase in the UK partly because Dior has recently opened a flagship store on Bond Street.The collection is inspired by post-war attire of the upperclass and the idea of wanting to discover newness. We see silks with rich prints, knits and typically British tweeds walk down the fox-themed runway, with models wearing heavy eye shadow and slicked back hair. The foxes also recur on the garments as well as zebra stripes and giraffe prints. With accessories made from materials such as stones and dark wood, the collection feels very much influenced by nature. This is the third time Dior shows their collection at the Blenheim Palace, the first two times dating back to the 1950s.
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
John Varvatos Opening of First Moscow Store
John Varvatos celebrated the opening of the John Varvatos Moscow store, making it the brand's 25th retail store globally. The party that took place in Crocus City Mall included a star-studded, black carpet arrival and rock star-worthy VIP party, featuring a special live performance by the legendary Russian rock band, Bi-2. The guests had the chance to experience an authentic rock concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
Many Russian celebrities and personalities came out to celebrate the store’s opening. Among the A-list guests were the Russian singer-songwriter and businessman Emin Agalarov, and his father, billionaire entrepreneur, Aras Agalorov. Also, actor Pavel Tabakov, singer Ani Lorak, singer/television entertainer Inna Malikova, singer Anna Sedokova and other VIP personalities from Russian entertainment, show business, cinema, theater and fashion. Immediately after the live music performance, the celebration continued with an after party at the exclusive Rose Bar, where guests were treated to a special and thrilling fire performance including juggling, baton twirling, poi spinning, fire breathing and eating, and fireworks display.
The new store is meticulously curated with an emphasis on delivering the full John Varvatos offering, highlighting distinctively sophisticated yet versatile wardrobe selections that are ideal for dressier outings, and fit seamlessly into the lifestyle of stylish men everywhere.
The new store hosts the full spectrum of the brand's offerings, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star U.S.A. and Converse by John Varvatos.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, please note: the Kenzo Fall 2016 collection includes the following: V-neck dresses (very formal), appealing outerwear in blue, flower pint on grey suit-fabric, tiger prints in red and gold and ruffled shoulders by the dozen. On Tuesday night in Paris, it might have been as hard for the fashion crowd as it was for you to remember these elements. Kenzo presented a rather various collection, that, despite its broad range of inspirations, still had continuous elements. One of them are the aforementioned ruffled shoulders, recalling the designs of both shirt blouses and garments from past decades. They circle the collection together with puffy shoulders, round or V-neck collars and at many times slim waists. With this collection, Kenzo showed how to unify a collection without convulsing into an assembly of more or less the same item. It's shape, silhouette and signature elements that keep the 54 looks under one roof. Make sure to note that, too.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Etro Fall/Winter 2016
On Friday, February 26th, models stepped out on Etro’s flower carpet to impress. Floating over the red-and-brown floor decor, they sported the latest Fall/Winter designs, which were a true reference to Etro’s signature looks. It was not only the carpet that alluded to flora, but so did the garments. Mixed with Etro’s typically tribal and Aztec patterns, they composed a true and traditional collection while staying focused on new twists. For instance, there was this season’s it-item in outerwear, the floor-length coat, there were shiny velvet jackets, there were even Scottish-looking checks. Etro is back on track and leading it at the same time, with new ideas quite literally revolutionizing tradition. It is in in moments like these that one is completely satisfied with getting what was expected – because it just made everything even better.
Costume National Fall/Winter 2016
Cool, cooler, Costume National. With the latest Fall/Winter collection, the label presented designs that spread the perfect interaction of casualty and precise tailoring. Effortlessly cool looks dominated the runway at Milan Fashion Week, formed by loose silhouettes and descending pleats and ruffles. The go-to item this season is the coat, and at Costume National, it comes in various shapes and styles. Whether it’s the short-and-slouchy version, the flower-embellished overcoat or the green trench: with Costume National’s Fall/Winter range, you’re covered on the coat side. Below the outerwear, ladies can sport oversize blouses combined with tailored blazers and pleated knee-high boots. Look for something more fancy? Go for the all-red velvet ensemble or the full-on print combination. You don’t need to worry, anyway. With Costume National, you’re cool; you’re dressed for success. Always.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
JOSEPH F/W 16/17
For season Fall/Winter 16/17, JOSEPH went in for the big game. Big hair, big silhouette, accumulated in a look that is as eclectic as a freely assembled art exhibition. Freedom, in both the inspirational and creative way, is a base to the latest designs. Motifs incorporating the nostalgic idea of freedom, such as a hand, an eye and a bird, are knitted into sweaters. This season for JOSEPH means badge, patch and collect: applications are randomly sewn onto the pieces, bringing to life the unique personality that is envisioned by this collection. JOSEPH wants to highlight an anti-conformist look that each wearer can assemble in a puzzle manner. Therefore, leather corsets are fastened over shearling jackets, British jacquards are cut on the reverse to expose floating thread and trousers are laced up, buttons intentionally mismatched. This season, JOSEPH went in for the big game, and whatever you make out of it for yourself: the big entrance is all yours.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016
While in recent days, Calvin Klein’s strategy revolved strongly around their celebrity-studded “mycalvins” campaign, at their NYFW fashion show, it was back to business instead of bras. On the runway, creative director Francisco Costa presented a mixture of sleek, precise looks and loose silhouettes. The classic suit for the Calvin Klein lady is reinvented through the ever-present crossover with menswear influences. Nevertheless, Costa puts emphasis on urban eroticism in form of light and sultry shift dresses with deep v-necks and unraveled hems. Besides that, proportions undergo distortion, with broad shoulder cuts contrasting slim waists. Next to its urban sexiness, this collection has seriousness to it, with dark tones leading the color palette and faux fur collars, lynx and skunk prints adding a grown-up feel. In the eyes of Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein accumulates both luxury and wilderness, and they certainly melt together in inserted stones and geodes, adding an unexpected twist to numerous dresses. Naturally, famous faces lined the front row at this presentation, but with a collection this convincing, the center of attention is nothing but the dress.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Dior Homme's “Stranger In A Room” SS16
In a world where voyeurism is ever-present in many ways, Dior Homme managed to turn secret spying into something intriguing and artistically beautiful. For their new SS16 campaign “Stranger In A Room”, longtime-collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre followed four distinctive famous faces around – as the title suggests - a room. Viewers watch actor Alain-Fabien Delon, The xx member Oliver Sims, artist Rinus van de Velde and model Victor Nylander act as different versions of themselves while participating in seemingly everyday actions. In doing so, they are set to embody both the current spirit of the Dior Homme brand and their own charismatic and individual style. “Each young man is respected for who he is as a person and in what they do; all of them have talents you would want to possess”, photographer Vanderperre commented on the testimonial selection. He developed the narrative for Stranger In A Room with Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. The title was chosen from the eponymous song by Oliver Sims’ The xx bandmate Jamie xx. And as the song, the short movie has something magnetic to it. Whether it is the gripping, charismatic actors or the delicate cinematography – that kind of voyeurism we'd like to indulge in even more.
Lala Berlin: Persian Queen Goes Berlin Vol. 2
If you want to do it right, do it twice. Leyla Piedayesh, designer of Lala Berlin, made her latest F/W 16 collection stand out even more in presenting it twice – in two completely different places. Even though the collection's theme is “Persian Queen Goes Berlin”, the designer chose to host her runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a matter of course, Piadayesh did not neglect her hometown. At Berlin Fashion Week, she had already presented the collection with a special mirror installation and an exclusive film. In the now following classic runway show, the “Persian Queen” went for a strut down the catwalk clad in designs that were inspired by ancient cultures – two in particular. The antique Persian town Persepolis performed a major inspiration to Piedayesh. Animal and fairytale statues are reflected in print motifs while oriental elements are a nod to the designer's background. On another note, they also contrast with the collection's modern and street style vibe, formed by 3-D High-Low knitwear, a variety of outerwear and one-shoulder silhouettes. Asymetrical cuts and diagonal cutlines are playfully used to create a glamourous look that could also survive in fast-paced Berlin. To be fair, if Leyla Piedayesh's Persian Queen would enter Berlin, we're certain everyone would slow down for her. Anything else would be too much of a miss.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
ETRO's Circle Of Poets
A poet by no means always has to be a lyricist. In a way, every form of art can depicted as poetry. Italian fashion label ETRO has therefore introduced their new project “The Circle Of Poets”, which sees artists from painters to filmmakers unite for a unique artistic exchange. As ETRO itself defines art as the very heart of the brand, it is with no surprise that the project includes an exhibition space for artists on the ETRO website. Although there is a selected circle of eleven elite “poets”, this art space is not an exclusive area for them. With the call-to-action “Are You A Poet?”, ETRO offers artists from around the world the chance to feature their works in an exciting collaboration, possibly even in local events and exhibitions. “The world within the circle spreads to meet other circles”, ETRO tells us, “now close your eyes and tell us what you can see”. Will do. Are You A Poet?
Calvin Klein #mycalvins SS16
With just one campaign, Calvin Klein has gone quite monumental. The new strategy is not just another advertising campaign, it’s a sweeping blow that endorses fashion, pop culture, music and – surprisingly - street life. To visualize the idea of a global campaign that establishes a new philosophy of participation and creation, the brand tapped photographer Tyrone Lebon, who shot the campaign in collaboration with his father, his brother and Klein cooperator David Sims. Even more striking than this creative team is the class of millennial celebrities that lend their faces to the campaign: Justin Bieber, Kendall Jenner, FKA twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Fetty Wap, Saskia de Brauw, to only name a few. Again, Calvin Klein sweeps in musicians, models, artists, but also – and that’s for the street life element – street cast models. Each shot is completed by the line “I _____ in #mycalvins”, obviously aiming at a social-media driven participation in the campaign. One step ahead, Calvin Klein also added a Spotify profile to supply fans of both brand and campaign with playlists and interactive content. And with a package this complete, we really can’t help it. We’re swept away, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Louis Vuitton's Time Travel: F/W 2016/17
Presented at the Parc André Citroën, Louis Vuitton revealed the Men's Fall/Winter collection as a ride with a time machine. With his seventh collection for the label, Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones once again dug into the archive of Vuitton and found inspiration from 162 years of brand history. Intertwined with the latest trends from today, he created a “new heritage”, a conversation between past and present. The past starts in the era of Art Déco, of the Dandy and aesthetics shaping the image of Paris. Naturally, the inspiration from the present is drawn from today. This dialogue between now and then finds support in an exclusive art display by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, titled “Liminal Air Space-Time”. A floating piece of fabric is set to underline the flow of time and to raise the viewer's attention to the dimensions of time and space. Additionally, the designs are also inspired by men of the past, who were originators of style even back then. Among these is Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé, who inspired jewellery pieces that riff on the edges of Dandy style. Kim Jones also extends this collection as a continuation of other Vuitton projects: a ribbon motif sketches out the words “Volez Voguez Voyagez” as a wink to the recent same-titled travel exhibition. Dandys, Art Déco and a flowing piece of art? To us, Louis Vuitton's time machine seems like a pretty exciting ride.
Laurèl FW 16/17
Congratulations are in order: designer Elisabeth Schwaiger celebrates her 20th anniversary with Laurèl and has all of 40 collections under her belt. The occasion translated into a throwback to the label’s core and a bright look ahead. “Say my name” is the tagline for the FW16/17 pieces with empowering garbs that bring out each woman’s personality. Schwaiger celebrates the modern woman as cool, calm and collected, as seen in an all white ensemble of turtleneck and pants, adorned with a leather vest or a number of velvet evening gowns straight from the Laurèl archives. Ultimate highlight? A formation of 4 models dressed in short mohair sweaters with names woven onto the back: Christy, Amber, Stella, Diane – credit where credit is due.
“The Stig” Vernissage In Munich
Friday, January 22nd, combined car and camera: ZOO’s Bryan Adams and Sandor Lubbe attended the opening of the vernissage “The Stig” at the Jaguar Land Rover Store at Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. The photos displayed are an extension to the exclusive editorial shot by Bryan Adams and art directed by Sandor Lubbe for our current issue No. 49. In reminiscence of the TV cult series “Top Gear”, the editorial was called “The Stig” after the mysterious series character. It visually combines high fashion with quality cars, presenting the model in a face-covering bodysuit by A.F. Vandervorst as well as the Jaguar XF. For the Munich vernissage, the photo shoot even came “alive”. Model Anna Meyer starred as the evening’s “Stig”, again referring to the pictures by posing in a full-on bodysuit. The free exhibition will be on display until February 21st, open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm.
Les Hommes F/W 2016 Collection
The men at Les Hommes are “born to be wild”. We hope that now, you have that road trip suggesting tune in your ear and imagine yourself on a roaring motorcycle. Seemingly, that’s what Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did. Their latest Les Hommes collection is a road trip on the back of a motorbike – with a gang of friends, a group of fellow bikers, all there to support. With these bikers as major inspiration, Les Hommes undergoes a journey from urban surroundings to the final destination of the African continent. Eventually, this also transfers onto the looks. Menswear classics from the world of motorcycles like performance fabric pants, perfecto and biker jackets and studded shirts mark the start of this on the go collection. They develop into colorful, almost pop looks with multi-material 3D geometries and a hint of couture inspiration. As the bikers reach Africa, the layering of Central Africa costumes comes through in layers of wools and oversize scarves. Accessories on the other hand stay simple: we travel without bags, only wearing studded gloves and bandanas. Ready for the ride? Hop on!
Dior Spring/Summer 16 Campaign
In fashion, time has no meaning. It is as swinging as a pendulum and as shifting as the arms of a clock. Therefore, the current releases of Fall/Winter collections go along with the releases for Spring/Summer campaigns. Get over the bizarre and focus on the facts: Dior has released their new Spring/Summer campaign. Typically charming and light-hearted, with these visuals, Dior stays soft and romantic. Dresses are equally airy or delicately pleated. Contrasting to that are black blazers conveying a serious attitude. In terms of delicacy, one has to have a look at the accessories: grosgrain necklaces are embellished with an “8” pendant that throws it back to the first Dior show in 1947. Less retro-reminiscence is found in the Diorever and Diorama bags, which remind of architectural lines and an innovative level of design. It might be time to reveal both Fall collections and Spring campaigns, but after campaigns like this one, we’re asking ourselves: Spring, why are you taking so long?
LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
“A redefinition of normality in classics” – Jonathan Anderson finds poetic words for the new LOEWE collection. His latest designs, revealed on Friday, January 22nd, are preceded by the corresponding advertising campaign. Model Jackson Wakefield is shot against another rather artistic backdrop: a sculpture by Paris artist M/M combines rugged rock-like formations with iridescent sections, which is set to reflect the character of the Fall/Winter collection. Wakefield poses in a blue overcoat with an eccentric piece of headwear. Redefinition of normality, it seems. To highlight the closeness to real “normality”, the campaign was distributed to 510 kiosks across all Paris as well as a billboard outside of LOEWE’s design studio at 76 rue Bonaparte. So, if you pop out in Paris to maybe catch the latest newspaper, an edition of ZOO or just a quick coffee, keep your eyes peeled for the new LOEWE campaign. Your idea of normality might just be redefined.
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Louis Vuitton Series 4 Campaign
Louis Vuitton has revealed the latest campaign “Series4” with another portfolio of visual art. The Spring/Summer 2016 visuals continue the brand’s system of releasing a variety of visuals, created by different artists, for each collection. This time, the focus lies on the fierceness of women: the heroine. To capture the spirit of the “new muses of a new era”, the brand teamed up with photographers Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber and Japanese video game creator Square Enix. The latter focused on what is most prominent in this particular campaign: the digital age. Enix captured “Lightning”, a character from the popular video game series “Final Fantasy”. Being the most unusual Vuitton model to date, the virtual character is the secret star among the other campaign testimonials, actors Jaden Smith and Doona Bae. “Lightning is the perfect avatar for a global, heroic woman (…). She is also the symbol of new pictorial processes. How can you create an image that goes beyond the classic principles of photography and design? Lightning heralds a new era of expression.”, Nicolas Ghesquière reflected on his choice. New year, new age, new era.
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
GUCCI Pre-Fall 2016
A dictionary is a pretty thick book, but there is only one word in it to describe GUCCI’s latest Pre-Fall collection: eclectic. Under the lead of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, the brand presented a colorful, multifaceted collection that leaves almost no color, fabric or print untouched. Indeed, the list seems infinite: animals, flowers, landscapes, stripes, stars and even more– Michele has everything in store. Contrary to other fashion designers, who like to take their influences from just one decade or era, Michele adds everything to his boiling pot of inspiration. Just like in his last collections, vintage is claimed excessively– resulting in references from past centuries to the 1970s. This (again) eclectic mixture can only be adapted by few fashion brands - and GUCCI certainly is one of them. A dictionary might be a thick book, but with GUCCI, there’s one word missing: boredom.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
Versace opens in Berlin
In an exciting collaboration between Donatella Versace and the English architect, Jamie Fobert, Versace are opening a new concept store on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. Taking a piece of the label’s heritage to their new location, the 350 sqm boutique brilliantly fuses together values of traditional Italian architecture with the dynamic energy we see at Versace today. Providing the immaculate setting for the fashion brand’s prêt-à-porter collections and accessories are 9th century Byzantine church-inspired marble mosaics, dramatic brass features and modernistic perspex walls and shelves…As Donatella puts it, “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight”, whilst paying homage to the label’s past, present and future.
Céline opens Munich Boutique
With only a few stores out there, Céline is a label that prides themselves upon exclusivity. However, Munich shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief as the Parisian label has opened an accessories store in the Oberpollinger, one of Munich’s major department stores. The 54 sqm ground floor boutique boasts a range of bags, sunglasses and jewellery in an elegant interior design of onyx, ceramic and marble.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Fred Perry x Stüssy 35
In commemoration of their 35th Anniversary, Stüssy are collaborating with a number of fellow lifestyle brands whose vision have inspired them along their journey. One of which, being the massively influential British heritage brand, who in the 1950s, pioneered sportswear as streetwear and thus created an entirely new youth culture. This brand is of course, Fred Perry.
This celebratory collection sees the union of two trademark giants, and with that, two iconic logos. Classic, retro sportswear looks from the Fred Perry Sports Authentic line are reimagined in rich Mahogany and French Navy, emblazoned with the Stüssy signature and Fred Perry wreath. Joining these in the collection are two, paneled pique shirts as well as three strap-back caps.
The Fred Perry x Stüssy Collection is now available to purchase online at www.fredperry.com
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
Claire Barrow Spring/Summer 16 Collection at LFW
“Broken Machines”, reflects Claire Barrow’s prophecy of our society’s doomed fate. In a world primarily dependent on technology, the NEWGEN designer’s presentation reflects a world in which this entity, imperative to our being, breaks down and leaves us out in the cold.
Worn by a selection of models Barrow has personally sought after, the gender-blurred collection is a beautiful jumble of silks, lace-up leathers, power suits and her trademark scrawling prints.
CHANEL Unveils Ephemeral Boutique in Rome
In place of its previous Via del Babuino boutique CHANEL has opened an ephemeral boutique, which is just steps away from its new boutique on the Piazza di Spagna, Rome.
The House welcomes “the masculine-feminine”, a concept treasured by Gabrielle Chanel. With a raw, minimalistic design of white floors and ceilings separated with oak, terrazzo and concrete modules, the understated boutique is appealing to both sexes.
Filling up the space will be the Ready-to-Wear line with accessories and the new, unisex, Boyfriend watch collection. There is also a fragrance and beauty section with a picturesque, Roman courtyard hidden behind the boutique.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Reminiscent of the label’s 1994 collection, which was immortalized thanks to the likes of Kate Moss on its runway, Francisco Costa has turned his head back to basics with the inspiration of a simple slip.
Adding a grunge twist, his sleek soft silk maxi dresses have split hems and loose straps, whilst lightweight, beautifully tailored long jackets with split cuffs billow over frayed-hem trousers. Mainly in a minimalistic neutral palette, Costa adds a touch of unpredictability to the label’s collection with the incorporation of floral print.
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Cranking up several more notches on the face décor scale, Riccardo Tisci returns this season with another classically “Givenchy” collection. Making his debut into New York Fashion Week, Tisci teamed up with Marina Abramovic to make a thought-provoking reference to 9/11 in the opening of his show.
The collection itself is a natural continuation from last season’s. Adopting whites and neutrals into his black palette, Tisci experiments with fabrics with an alligator skin couture dress. Perfectly tailored trousers, pointed lace-up shoes and a magnitude of lace leaves Tisci with a collection that is the perfect mix of elaborateness and class.
YSL Presents Latest Campaign “Rue de l'Université”
It has now been more than a decade since we said goodbye to the astounding couture of YSL, following the retirement of founder Yves Saint Laurent in 2002. Most would surely find the task of filling his shoes too daunting to take on… Hedi Slimane however has presented himself as a match. Since being appointed as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, Slimane has spent the past three years busy renovating the “Hôtel de Sénecterre”, a.k.a. the last couture house of Saint Laurent.
The majestic building located at 24, Rue de l’Université, was originally built in 1685 by architect Thomas Gobert and would have probably needed a great deal more than a lick of paint to whip back into working shape… Yet Slimane has done it. The iconic label’s latest campaign is shot in the grand house, signifying it’s long anticipated opening as the lavish new couture house of Saint Laurent.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
What Do You Mean it’s Exclusive Calvin Klein?
To the avid horror of Beliebers everywhere, the latest Justin Bieber video sees him get pretty well aquainted with model Xenia Deli. The pair writhe around wearing exclusively Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein underwear, to the backing track of his new song, “What do you mean?”. By doing so, he keeps the collab flame alight with the luxury fashion label, after featuring in their racy Spring/Summer 2015 advertising campaign with supermodel Lara Stone.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Objets Nomades by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton presented the latest project at Salone del Mobile in Milan this year. It completely revolves around travel, something we can always expect with this particular fashion house. Keeping in touch with Vuitton’s core, travel and innovation, they have asked several artists and designers to create objects that embrace the brand’s philosophy.
The collection exists out of perfectly crafted items that are not only useful, but extremely beautiful too. Christian Liaigre created a portable travel desk that can be folded into a suitcase. By combining leather, wood and aluminium, the desk becomes a strong and well-designed item. Atelier Oï on the other hand, chose to design a luxurious hammock, made out of leather strips.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Karl Lagerfeld admitted to his love for France during his latest Chanel show. Since he has been opening grocery stores and rebuilding stages for the past few years, it was time for Brasserie Gabrielle to get introduced to the rest of the world.
He is known to be the designer that keeps on evolving the oh so classical brand of Chanel, and he managed to do that once again. It is not only in the way he presents the collections, but it is hidden in details and materials too.
Lagerfeld is celebrating Chanel heritage; in the way he refers to French culture, and in every garment he creates.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Yamamoto’s Fall/winter 2015 show was as sober, sophisticated and uniform like we can always expect. Long dresses in draped velvet and wool gave the feeling of closed intimacy and anonymity.
Where other designers go back a few decades to find inspiration, it seems as if Yamamoto went back a few centuries. His looks felt more like they were beautiful costumes, only made to wear by people who could truly appreciate this art. The same goes for the less wearable spider-like constructions that he showed. Even though they are not made for wearing, they show Yamamoto’s genius as an artist rather then a fashion designer.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Made By You by Converse
Converse has been gathering personal editions of the Chuck Taylor All Star all over the world. They come together in the campaign “Made by you”, which celebrates the uniqueness of every customized pair. People have been expressing themselves on their Chuck Taylors for nearly 100 years, which means it is time to bring them together and share their stories. A fresh pair of Chucks has always been like a blank canvas, and now we can explore different creations from artist to skaters and musicians.
Vetements at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In between all luxury and sophistication, Vetements is a breath of fresh air. Demna Gvasalia does things a bit differently. His latest collection was presented in Le Depot, a gay club in Paris. We saw police uniform-inspired looks, oversized coats and long floral dresses combined with what seemed to be cleaning gloves.
Gvasalia mismatches subcultures and creates a new reality for city kids. Even though the collection is diverse – it contains bomber jackets to full length knitted dresses – every single piece says the same thing: “I won’t bother you if you won’t bother me.”
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Miuccia Prada presented us a quirky female villain from a cartoon, ready to take over the planet. Even though Miuccia herself has already taken over, we would like to discuss some of the things this antihero was wearing. Covered in pastels, bows and soft fur patches on her shoulders, this lady does not seem harmful at first sight. Cropped pants and groovy prints add to her innocence, while long leather gloves suggest otherwise. This girl is ready to do some dirty work.
We saw brilliant tailoring, beautiful details and fascinating combinations of textures. Brooches and buttons were quite subtly added to every look, making sure that every ensemble was screaming Prada. Not that Miuccia needs a few brooches for that, because everything we saw during this show could not be created by anyone else.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
Ziggy and Stephan Marley Front John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Music trails John Varvatos like a shadow. So sweetly coupled are the two, twenty-one impossibly iconic seasons have seen Varvatos join forces with the likes of Iggy Pop, Willie Nelson, KISS and Ringo Starr, to name but a few – and the affinity extends to their latest collaboration, finding fitting figureheads in none other than Ziggy and Stephen Marley.
The Spring 2015 campaign was shot in Austin, Texas, by legendary rock photographer, Danny Clinch, and features the Marley brothers as the centerpiece of a striking and stoic family portrait.
Stripped down to its essence, the black and white portrait frames the siblings with a quiet yet charismatic purity, their pride and spirit speaking through against timeless sable-black tailoring; Ziggy Marley wears a black crocodile jacquard tuxedo and Richard dress shoe, while Stephen Marley is dressed in one button peak lapel Austin version, paired with a charcoal dress shirt and cap-toes.
An idea conceived under the eye of longtime Varvatos collaborator, YARD, the family portrait will be brought to life with the launch of an exclusive short documentary film directed by Clinch, in celebration of their father’s 70th birthday which falls on February 6th.
The film will debut on www.johnvarvatos.com on February 5th 2015.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.
Mulberry loves Wilderness
Oxfordshire based festival Wilderness will be visited by Mulberry this year. The fashion brand will host its own 'Mulberry loves Craft' tent allowing festival goers the opportunity to engage with Mulberry craftsmen and customize their own leather bracelet.
The Mulberry craftsmen will provide the public with the chance to learn how the iconic Bayswater bag is made and participate in a series of workshops across the weekend. To celebrate the launch of the Mulberry Cara Delivingne collection set for iniment release, Mulberry will host a picnic inside the private Walled Garden with special guests. The collaborative collection will be available online and in store from September.
Zoe Waters wins ITS Diesel Award
British fashion designer Zoe Waters has won the 2014 ITS Diesel Award. Taking place in Trieste , Italy on 12th July, the award show celebrates the talents and ideas of young people by offering a €25,000 award to the winner to invest in their career.
Awarded by Diesel artistic director Nicola Formichetti, Zoe will be offered a 6 month internship with the Diesel creative team as well as the cash prize. Speaking on Zoe, Formichetti describes the young designer's work as "in line with the Diesel DNA" and that she is "willing to work in a team". The event was attended by prestigious names from international fashion and media and aims to support young design talent in line with the enthusiastic and passionate ethos of Diesel.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
This time around Hien Le mixed things up a little by showing on the final day of Berlin Fashion Week, instead of opening the extravaganza. He still stuck to the purist, clean, understated designs that make the young Laotian one of Germany's most sought after designers. SS15's color palette is predominantly pastel, reminiscent of a fresh and sunny spring morning. Soft mint, white, light gray, royal blue and tangerine are mixed with fish and jelly fish prints, but the collection never turns loud or kitsch, but rather remains within the minimalist boundaries of the New Objectivity. A gimmick in Le's designs is the use of coated cotton, which appears to be soft leather.
Silk and chiffon add a soft touch to midi dresses, which Hien Le uses as layering pieces. Mesh shirts and full skirts loosen up the outfits, as do asymmetrical hem lines and peek-a-boo details, making Hien Le's SS15 collection surprising, stylish and understated. He is certainly one of the designers who have found their aesthetic and will stick to it, all the while keeping the crowd on their toes.
SCHUMACHER at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Getty Images
A complete overhaul best characterizes this SS15 showcase: gone are the days of understatement and wearability and with this turn of events comes a new name as well. SCHUMACHER makes a strong statement and re-brands itself as Dorothee Schumacher, after the label's creative director. It is this daring lady, who took a look back at what fashion - in it's purest form - is actually supposed to accomplish. The answer appears to be as simple as it is genius: suggest! Who are you underneath those layers of fabric? Who ever you want to be.
Dorothee Schumacher's SS15 showcase transformed this allusion into bondage elements paired with soft fabrics, feminine silhouettes, prints and girly ruffles. Harnesses covered in pastels, flower dresses with heavy belts, mini dresses covered by transparent parkas are all somewhat reminiscent of 90s grunge. Here they are mixed with sporty elements such as zippers and nylon fabric. Daid Moriyama's photographs are said to have inspired Schumacher and her almost philosophical approach to this collection. With designs like these, it's about time she became the namesake to the eponymous brand.
FIER vitrine Spring/Summer 2015
Ten well-selected international avant-garde labels presented their new collections in a group show during Berlin Fashion Week. Every corner of Lehrter Siebzehn was dedicated to another label and set up to create a showroom submerged entirely into the respective designer’s world. Each of the stalls showcased about three to four key pieces from the collections to give a brief introduction to the emerging design talents.
From Aussie designer Alexandra Hackett’s menswear collection, for which she created every piece from silver foil, draped black and gray avant-garde designs by 40 DECIBELS from Canada, detail oriented fairytale dresses with a hint of mystery by Karin Brettmeist from Germany, Australian Laura Banfield’s pieces that were nothing short of art, Laura Galati’s heavy knits (Australia), Germany’s Maja Daphne Holzborn and her vibrant prints and patchworks, urban streetwear by Brazilian Ocksa, Austria’s Ruins of Modernity and their contemporary styles all the way to Senhor Prudencio from Portugal and their amazing shoe designs and finally intriguing head pieces by Vasso Consola from Greece. All these designers are well on their way onto the fashion pack radar, so it won’t be too long until the fight for front row seats is on.
Isabell de Hillerin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
White, black and soft gray are the dominating shades in Isabell de Hillerin's minimalist SS15 collection. Accents of royal blue, soft pink and jade break the understated palette for a summery vibrancy. Flowing fabrics and those exciting hues come together in an elegant, understated and chic ode to femininity. Isabell de Hillerin's current collection is called “Beyond”, fitting the designs to a t. They go far beyond your regular summer garb, ensuring to feel comfortable, beautiful and at ease. Straight, clean cuts sheathe the body, in these sport smart creations, that ranged from light summer pants, see-through shirts and button downs to loose fitting blazers and coats. Once again de Hillerin put on a show to lust after until next season.
Lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exhibiting at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the Lala Berlin Spring/ Summer collection presented relaxed silhouettes, stylish patterns and creative layering. Adhering to the theme of "Illusion & Delusion", the collection fused contemporary and chic pieces with inventive sheer dresses to produce a laid back yet effortlessly cool aesthetic. Smart blazers were paired with loose fitted trousers and sleek leather jackets added a dominant edge. The showcase, presented on the 9th July at the Deutsche Oper attracted actresses Fritzi Haberlandt and Friederike Kempter as well as fashion icons including Gala Gonzalez and Camille Charriere.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
by Nora Hiller
It’s an air of nostalgia for boyhood and a longing for a distant future that surrounds the IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Small backpacks and colourful collar details in the shape of tiny triangles remind of a schoolboy days, while smart suits signal sophistication. Buttoned up shirts with short sleeves contrast loose fitting T-shirts with v-necks. A drawstring at the back of jackets and sleeveless vests is used to tighten the fit at waist level. The dominant colours are black, deep green, cobalt blue as well as a soft creme and pale pink, only a bright magenta ensemble stands out.
Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 2014
Sleek sophistication was combined with the classic and the cultivated at the Armani Privé Fall 2014 Haute Couture show. In a monochrome and red color palette, Armani provided an experimental interpretion of classic Couture. Inventive dresses consisted entirely of netting and magnificent gowns were draped in polka dot organza. Capes were styled over smart shorts and extravagant, oversize fur coats made up entire outfits; it exuded refined luxury.
Levi's Made & Crafted Fall/Winter 2014 Collection
Using the contrast between the city and the mountains as inspiration, the latest Levi's Made & Crafted Fall/Winter 2014 Collection presents a casual and cool aesthetic.
Contemporary with a tone of sophistication, the men's and womenswear is relaxed yet refined and smart yet stylish. Comprising of edgy leather jackets, relaxed denims and comfortable knits, the collection provides a sleek way to sport casual wear.
Exhibiting a balance between "the indoor and the outdoor" and "the old and the new", the collection exudes modern and cultivated style.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting a casual and feminine characteristic, the Loewe Spring 2015 collection provided a cool yet refined amalgamation. A demure colour palette was used on thick, striped sweaters paired with turned up, loosely fitted jeans and patent black brogues. Frayed, thick material was wrapped around models and worn as cardigans and distinctive patterns were decorated onto thick sweaters. A bohemian influence was seen on beige, worn out looking tops and chic motorcycle jackets added a stylish edge.
Marc Jacobs at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Offering a clean collection with a soft colour palette, the Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Menswear show oozed sophistication whilst remaining original and quirky. Bright and vivid prints were embellished onto shorts and shirts and matching suits came in pastel pink, pale blue and bright red. A pink flamingo motif was present throughout the collection; emblazoned onto the back of a silky black bomber jacket, printed onto a shirt and worn as a brooch.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A softened elegance was presented at the Lanvin Spring Menswear 2015 show. Suits were polished yet oversize and slightly baggy, the layering was laid back and kept to a minimum and long sophisticated blazers were worn with tight, edgy neck scarfs. Chains were attached to belts and worn on skinny black trousers and colour blocked shirts were accompanied by snakeskin shoes, the result was a slick, polished and contemporary aesthetic with a rock and roll edge.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Inspired by ballet costumes, the Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Menswear collection applied an athletic and slick aesthetic. Garments were deconstructed; outfits were accessorized with harnesses, unbuttoned shirts were paired with formal trousers and artistic embroidery was placed onto jackets.Looks were completed with stylish male ballet pumps and subtle prints were decorated onto matching blazers and trousers. Dries re interpreted men's occasion wear by producing an elegant yet edgy and impressively unique collection.
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adhering to a glam rock theme, the Saint Laurent 2015 Menswear show presented a theatrical element through top hats, gold embellished blazers and scarfs worn as capes. The collection fused sleek rock and roll with bohemian influencers to produce the archetypal relaxed rock aesthetic; mismatched prints were worn with denim and accessorized with silver jewelry and unbuttoned shirts were paired with embroidered black skinny jeans. Fabrics included velvet and leather and prints were amongst snakeskin, glitter, paisley and florals. The womenswear was less rock and rock and more relaxed bohemian with floaty dresses exhibiting simple yet distinct patterns and worn with beaded jewelry dominating the runway.
22/4 at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The 22/4 Spring 2015 collection had a sporty yet slick feel. Relaxed and baggy silhouettes were laid back yet refined and designs were kept simple yet distinct. Cool sophistication was created through exaggerated tailoring; everything was slightly oversize and stylishly loose fitting, it exuded effortless chic. Sandals and t shirts were decorated with the 22/4 logo and dusky metallics and simplistic stripes added a uniqueness.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting an array of monochrome pieces, Gucci applied a nonchalant design to their Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Jackets with sailor like button detail were combined with striped monochrome trousers and the same large buttons continued onto the top of loose fitting trousers. The mellow theme progressed onto casual trainers and luxurious loafers and bright bursts of vivid red and turquoise added eccentricity to the laid back collection.
PHILIPP PLEIN opened the second store in Milan
On Tuesday 24th June, PHILIPP PLEIN opened his second flagship store in Milan. Located on via Montenapoleone 23, the brand new flagship covers over 150 square metres and has been jointly designed by Philipp Plein and the Milanese architectural firm AquiliAlberg.
The swank and contemporary black, white and grey store consists of blocks of marble, PHILIPP PLEIN's hexagonal logo and CRYSTALLIZED™- Swarovski Elements studded onto the iconic skull. With space dedicated to both women's and childrens clothing and areas of constrasting light and shade, the flagship creates a relaxing, serene and exclusive shopping experience.
The opening which coincided with men's fashion week was greeted by a DJ set by David Vivirido and Francesco Sourigues from Hercules magazine and included a live performance from American rapper Theophilus London.
Speaking on the opening, Plein stated "I am both proud and thrilled to open on this renowned street, and I decided to create a true work of art for this special flagship, a tribute to a city that has contributed so much to my success."
Moncler Gamme Bleu at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adhering to a boxing theme, the Moncler Gamme Bleur Spring 2015 Menswear Collection presented a smart, sports luxe aesthetic. Overlayered ensembles worked excellently as they glided down the runway with high top sneakers. In keeping with the sporting theme, the colour palette which also made its way onto the models faces consisted of red, navy blue and white. The collection clashed the loosely fitted with tight fitted ensembles and deconstructed the classic suit by styling smart shirts, high waist trousers and bow tyes with casual hooded sporty jackets and sneakers. The colours transformed into a cool and chic grey mixture with grey, black and white prints clashing. Blazers and shirts were juxtaposed with padded oversize coats, sporty loose fitting shorts and knee length, lace up sneakers. The womenswear remained just as sporty but was kept more restricted and confined and less relaxed and playful.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Fusing refinement with edginess, PHILIPP PLEIN sent garments down the runway heavily emblazoned with skull and bones logos as well as rhinestone-studded jackets and sequin embellished blazers. Dipping in and out and casual and smart wear, the collection incorporated sleek blazers worn with matching trousers and loafers and laid back embroidered denim shirts, ripped jeans and causal sweatpants. Making a statement through the vividness of the garments, Plein presented an energetic and dynamic amalgamation that transcended into a coherent and wearable collection.
Calvin Klein Collection at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Light beige was a persistent colour on the Calvin Klein Collection runway with vests layered onto t – shirts, smart blazers worn with shorts and oversize shirts. The collection largely consisted of all one colour ensembles with specks of bright oranges, yellows and reds being incorporated onto the light beige coordinates. Innovative bright transparent plastic jackets paired with straight black trousers added an eccentricity to the mostly demure compilation and a unique shade of deep brown embodied the contemporary and refined man.
London Collections: Men Day Three
The third and final day of London Collections: Men brought together some of the most inventive and original fashion talent to conclude the thrilling three day event.
Labelled as a ‘silent protest’, Craig Green’s first solo show evoked emotions in the audience as well as the designer himself. The extremely inventive collection saw fabrics deconstructed and uniquely layered to create a delicate yet distinct combination. The all black, all white and all blue ensembles were worn with bare feet as the fabric effortlessly flowed to the sound of soft music and comprised of one of a kind silhouettes.
Bright and bold combos were showcased on the highly anticipated Burberry Prorsum catwalk. Classic suits were modernised by being displayed in bright colour palettes and accompanied by graffiti emblazoned bags and trainers and sophisticated bucket hats. Exquisite suede jackets were placed over denim jackets and logo decorated t –shirts were worn with suit trousers and oversize scarfs to embody the contemporary and stylish man.
Held at the Opening Ceremony store in London, the brands presentation exhibited a polished, sports luxe aesthetic that incorporated summery palm tree prints, soft and relaxed lines and sharp colour blocking. The laidback collection consisted of long, light overcoats and slim fitting trousers in an array of intriguing fabrics and materials producing a quirky yet cool compilation.
The third day’s shows concluded with a striking showcase from Nasir Mazhar. The collection referenced hip hop culture through heavily logoed street style and relaxed, loose fitting materials. Smart white shirts were juxtaposed by being paired with casual basketball shorts and sweatpants, gold metallic jacquard was embellished onto matching two pieces and deep metallic blue was incorporated onto shorts and vests to create a more luxurious look. Adhering to his signature style, Mazhar produced a street wear collection with a high end undertone.
Presenting a fusion of established and new designers, the three day occasion has grown in popularity and talent, thus cementing London as one of the most exciting and innovation fashion cities in the world.
London Collections: Men Day 2
The second day of London Collections: Men produced an exciting amalgamation of captivating street style, compelling fashion and lively parties. The relaxed yet stimulating atmosphere continued with catwalks from KTZ, Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen and Moschino and presentations from Kit Neale, Christopher Kane and Duchamp.
One of the first shows of the day, J.W. Anderson who is known to blend gender presented a similar aesthetic in his Spring/ Summer 2015 collection by merging male and female styles. Masculine suits were exquisitely fitted, smart brogues were given flatforms and large wrap around scarfs were worn as ties. The experimental tone of the collection was continued with suits being deconstructed and knitted crop tops styled with loose fitting suit trousers. A truly original combination, Anderson applied his signature unconventional style to a wearable and unique collection.
At the Alexander McQueen show abstract designs were displayed onto all white and all black canvases of trousers, jackets and coats. Smart yet chic patterned suits were worn with casual trainers, emulating a stylish yet easy going look. Relaxed silhouettes were seen on loose bomber jackets and culottes and patent leather was incorporated onto oversize coats and jackets. Entirely sleek without losing a unique edge, the collection was smart and creative.
Before his party hosted by i-D Magazine, Jeremey Scott’s first menswear collection for Moschino did not disappoint and embodied a fun, lively and bright vibrancy. No stranger to branding, Scott graced garments with the words ‘Moschino’ and ‘Fauxschino’. In an explosion of colour, logos and smiley faces, the Moschino collection creatively used layering and referenced hip hop through transparent netting, gold chains and dollar signs while also incorporating womenswear.
The last catwalk of the day came from Casely-Hayford who integrated the trend normcore into their smart and dapper collection. A gentlemen demeanour was reinvented with pinstripe decorated sports caps, suit blazers transforming into oversize coats with zip detailing and slogan tees worn with traditional pin stripe suit trousers. It was sharp, slick and seemingly effortless, classic menswear was skilfully revived all in a demure colour palette with shades of blue, green and gold. Day two was wrapped up nicely.
Diesel Pre Fall 2014
Fusing fashion advertising and fine art, Diesel have created a new and creative vision for their Pre Fall 2014 campaign through the use of the digital medium.
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo, Avedon and the Renaissance, Artistic Director of Diesel Nicola Formichetti has created an interesting juxtaposition between the classical and the digital with the campaign echoing historic Italian art whilst remaining modern and sleek appealing to the younger generation.
Photographed by Nick Knight, the campaign entitled ‘Neo-neoclassic’ initiates a new era for Diesel in which the old is strikingly combined with the new and the historic with the contemporary.
Fendi Resort 2015 Collection
Chic and elegant lines were decorated with sharp, colourful and detailed designs in the Fendi Resort 2015 collection.
Prada Womenswear Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring stunning Argentinian model Mica Arganaraz and photographed by Steven Meisel in New York, Prada’s latest campaign displays the Fall/Winter 2014 womenswear collection.
Effortlessly cool, the vivid and chic collection looks luxurious next to the sharp architecture and captures the striking silhouettes of the clothing. A video of the campaign will be unveiled soon on prada.com.
Sensual and delicate yet powerful and strong, the campaign is shot against a calm, grey backdrop of concrete and window panes which provided the perfect standout for the colourful and textured clothing.
‘A new art of living through perfume’ is the thesis behind Hermes new collection of colognes, perfumes and bath time essentials that ‘open up a world of perfumed experiences, sensations and images’.
The bath time collection includes creamy bubble bath, revitalising shampoo, hydrating balm and toning gel to make bath times a luxurious and intimately relaxing experience. Comprising of irresistible fragrances and silky soft textures, the Hermes bath time collection makes for a soothing experience.
The perfumes and colognes incorporate the spirit of travel and use raw materials to create light and satisfying scents to accompany the complete bath time ritual. Hermès Bath time provides the ultimate sensory experience engaging the sight, smell and touch and is available in a range of textures, colours and designs to suit your mood.
MYKITA Opens at BIKINI BERLIN
Berlin's most recent addition to shopaholic heaven, the first ever concept mall BIKINI BERLIN, can call sunglasses label MYKITA one of its own now. Like so many before it, MYKITA, too, has expanded from too-cool-for-its-own-good Mitte to City West, the rediscovered heart of the old chic city. The mall itself is housed in the Bikinihaus, a contemporary witness to the city's tumultuous past.
Designed by Paul Schwebes and Hans Schoszberger in 1957, the complex is made up of a dyadic architecture that has now been fully glazed. The new MYKITA store with its polished, reduced interior fits in like a charm. From regular ones to sunglasses, the store appears like an ocean of mirrors, all in the label’s trademark styles.
The MYKITA + Maison Martin Margiela collection consists of two different design approaches: Essential and Dual. The former are made of high-grade steel and reduced to the raw material without any additive pieces. The latter are two pairs made from acetate, born from one mold, then broken and reconstructed. This new eye-wear collection reflects the synergy of both houses perfectly, just like the new space MYKITA occupies now.
Dior: The Legendary Images
Held at the Christian Dior Museum in Granville Normandy, Dior: The Legendary Images showcases the extraordinary and stunning relationship between the fashion house and the photographers who helped cement their fame worldwide.
Included in the exhibition is talented American photographer Pat English who photographed Christian Dior’s first fashion show. This contributed to the international success of Dior’s highly popular and fashionable ‘New Look’. The exhibition also presents the iconic 1955 photograph displaying Dovima posing elegantly and showcasing a classic Dior aesthetic in between two elephants shot by Richard Avedon. This same trademark Dior elegance is captured in Willy Maywald’s mesmerising images shot on the streets of Paris of women in exquisite and chic evening wear and overcoats.
Also highlighting modern Dior photography, the exhibition hosts the work of Nan Goldin who captures actor Robert Pattinson effortlessly spread across the page for Dior Homme in 2013 and Natalie Portman looking ornately stunning in a series for Miss Dior shot by Paolo Roversi.
Truly legendary, these images are homage to the greats of fashion photography and a tribute to the timeless and cultivated style Of Dior. The exhibition will take place on May 3rd and continue through to September 21st 2014.
Armani/Casa 2014-2015 Collection
The creation of the Armani/Casa Exclusive Wallcoverings Collection is the collaboration between leading Italian furnishings company Jannelli&Volpi and fashion house Giorgio Armani that produces “a style of living and furnishing that expresses a sense of beauty.”
Offering a vast range of wall coverings, furnishings and decorations, the sophisticated compilation of designs add a characteristic elegance and cool refinement to a room and adheres to a minimalist yet welcoming aesthetic.
Comprising of a fresh colour palette ranging from warm beige, brown and grey to colder blue, light lime green and metallic grey, the designs provide crisp and refined household decorations that are simultaneously contemporary and traditional. With designs including shell motifs and geometric detailing, the collection is inspired by the Far East, nature and stones.
The sleek and innovative furnishings and wall coverings are available at all Armani/Casa stores worldwide as well as at authorized retailers.
Diesel Venice Collection
A year on from his appointment as Artistic Director of Diesel, and the world’s eyes are still unfalteringly fixed on every ingenious movement of Nicola Formichetti, who premiered his debut collection for the fashion house last week. More than any other director gone before, Formichetti is acutely aware of the 35-year-strong heritage he has commandeered, abiding to his rather gallant take on governance that decrees honour before egoism.
What more apt venture, then, than to revisit the soil that bedded Diesel’s roots. ‘Welcome to Venice’ was the title for Formichetti’s inaugural collection, an acknowledgement of its origins in the city of Venice, as much as it served to articulate the global vista of the brand. Built upon Diesel’s iconic trinity of denim, rock ‘n’ roll leather and military utility, each segment accompanied by the filmic vision of friend and long-time collaborator, Nick Knight, and a live performance by Diesel’s modern muse, Brooke Candy. For Formichetti, the structured progression of the show mapped out the direction of his unique creative vision, from heritage to innovation until finally, the streets – which is, ostensibly, where Diesel reigns today – the Venetian canals were but a beginning.
Pharrell Williams and adidas
Submerging himself into the fashion scene, musician Pharrell Williams who’s already set to collaborate with fashion brands including COMME des GARÇONS, Moncler and G-Star has recently announced that he will be working on a collaborative line with sportswear label adidas.
Williams has always demonstrated an interest in fashion with the launch of his own fashion label entitled Billionaire Boys Club and the creation of a collaborative fashion brand with a Japanese streetwear label titled ‘Ice Cream’. But it was his extravagant yet classy Vivienne Westwood hat first debuted at the Grammy’s that quickly propelled the singer into the mainstream fashion sphere and led him into being dubbed a “pop – culture icon” by Dirk Schoenberger, creative director at adidas. The inevitable relationship between music and fashion is at its height and with this exciting collaboration it seems to be continuing, Williams noted that “I’m really appreciative to adidas for allowing me to further develop and understand my design dreams.” With adidas currently having beaten off rivals to claim the enviable title of bestselling sportswear brand and Kanye West leaving competitors Nike to collaborate with the brand, the upcoming collection set to be released this summer and is fated to be a hit!
Moncler Gamme Rouge at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Moncler Gamme Rouge gave us an ultra-slick wardrobe to be snowed in with at their FW14 show during Paris fashion week. Woolly caps were combined with oversize coats and straight skirts worn over leggings to stylishly prepare us for the winter. It was modern, it was shiny and it was futuristic. Eye blindingly shiny silver covered oversize coats as well as sleek black croc leather and bright geometric prints to add drama to the largely polished pieces.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Set in a CHANEL themed supermarket with each shelf merchandised with CHANEL produce, the FW14 show presented dressed up daywear with sportswear references. Cut up body hugging trousers and crop top combinations were juxtaposed with bright mismatched geometric prints seen on large coats, long dresses and the lining of coats. There was a theme of matching pairs with an added elegance through layered white pearls. Ruffled pink princess yet chic dresses were edged up with knee length laced up trainers and shiny silver metallic leggings were worn under large tweed overcoats. This was a show of successful contrasts.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Louis Vuitton FW14 show paired complimentary silhouettes and applied a relaxed yet stylish aesthetic to their collection. Luxe and luscious fur was used in a toned down way, opting to apply it to an oversize biker jacket cut with a leather middle belt and ultra-modern shiny leather was seen on skinny trousers, long croc coats and strappy zip up croc leather low cut vests. This was contrasted with 70s references made through geometrics printed onto shirts and tops paired with brown and orange skirts and turtle necks, providing a strong and understated look.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A Bohemian chic was fused with luxe glitzy glamour at the John Galliano FW14 show. Not a usual mix, but wearable and appealing all the same. Earthy tones were splashed onto jumpsuits, floaty dresses and structured, fur collared coats to give a day out in the countryside feel. This was accompanied with chic, uptown glamour represented through luscious velvet and sparkling floor length dresses. The styles clashed triumphantly.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A blanket of black and white with glimpses of luxurious gold constituted the Ann Demeulemeester FW14 show. The collection, consisting of both menswear and womenswear depicted a demure yet distinct darkness that adopted a gothic theme while still adhering to a feminine aesthetic. The womenswear was heavily deconstructed through the folding and wrapping of materials to create a fearless and fiery look whilst the menswear combined clean lines with dark punk that embodied sharpness with edge.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Haider Ackermann FW14 show presented a satisfying equilibrium between masculinity and femininity. Styles were merged with sophisticated long grey suits paired with thick black sweatband style headbands to give a relaxed edge. Sophistication continued with floor length coats worn with flared suit trousers and head to toe black loose fitting pieces. Haider Ackermann watered down the sophisticated element by offering a high end chic look with short leather jackets paired with all grey outfits and sleek black ankle boots. This provided a wearable and effortlessly elegant demeanor.
Hogan Fall/Winter 2014
Italian fashion brand Hogan have partnered with British designer Simon Holloway to create an elegant yet chic FW 2014 – 15 collection entitled Neo Romantic. Inspired by 1970s romantic decadence and 1990s Corrine day photography, the collection comprises of an eclectic mix of psychedelic prints, modern and sleek suits paired with casual trainers, oversize biker jackets, fur coats and long hippy style dresses.
A minimalist dandy boy style is referenced through excellently tailored suits, lustrous goatskin biker jackets and wool flannel and moleskin coatsuits. Cashmere fur biker jackets add a modern and trendy edge to classically tailored suits and psychedelic, hip prints by Julie Verhoeven add a funky edge to boots, shoes, dresses and suits. Coming in a colour palette of monochrome, grey, deep purple, magenta and blood red, the collection represents a fuse between the modish and the refined to produce an amalgamation of exciting clothing that adheres to Hogan’s versatile urban style.
Day 4: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Simple, graceful structure was partnered with creative patterns and colour mixes to create the Bottega Veneta FW ’14 collection. The styles embodied strong femininity while referencing futuristic fashion with the use of graphic black and white prints. Deep purple and burgundy softened the clean lines and extravagant snakeskin bags added a luxurious flare.
Crisp whites, greys and light pastels were showcased alongside blacks, mustard yellows and deep turquoises to create an urbane appearance at the Jil Sander FW ’14 show. Sharply cut coats and straight and metallic dresses bared signature to Sander’s clean – cut aesthetic while the experimental colour palette provided a burst of excitement. Oversize jackets were paired with straight suit trousers and platform brogues to bring a new meaning to office chic while turtle neck sweaters and high waist skirts provided girly sophistication.
HUGO BOSS at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For Fall/Winter 2014/15 young talented creative director Jason Wu showcased a feminine, yet sophisticated debut, that -without question- was able to carry on the brand's DNA. Rich in high-quality fabrics, Jason tailored a line of solid garments out of cashmere and silk hold in black, camel and gray shades. Minimal A-line skirts,long coats with rounded shoulders, next to transparent chiffon dresses made the modern BOSS woman appear self-confident and delicate.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Dior at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
On monday, at the Dior Haute Couture, Raf Simons focused on the idea of intimacy and showcased elaborately designed garments, in which he dealt with the 'idea of woman per se'. Even the location -a white modernist cave- showed the main idea of the show: soft curves and abstract sculptural expressions.
Speaking of delicacy of handwork, Simons designs had a complex, yet light and clean architectural approach, almost surrounding the bodys like organic shapes and adjusting to their movements. Silk, chiffon and delicate lace sybolized the intimacy of the female body. Chopped-out balloon cocktail dresses or volounious airy skirts were made of semi-transparent fabrics and embellished with repetitive patterns in white, black and pastel colours.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The dark and sober collection by Véronique Nichanian had more understated luxury than ever. Almost anonymous, the collection featured slim suits with simple tops and slouchy coats with set-ins of sleeve just balancing a little bit below the shoulder. Black leather and furry or shiny surfaces were reoccurring motifs, as was sport. Although the latter never took over the collection, touches could be found in hiking-boots, parka's and most decisive: a puffer jacket. In crocodile leather that is.
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mysterious as the fables by Jean de la Fontaine, the recent collection by Thom Browne veered between the animal and human. The first half of the collection consisted of Browne's trademarks like cropped tweed jackets and pants with the famous red-white-blue ribbon. Seemingly, he put all his imagination in the head dresses, designed by milliner Stephen Jones. Different types of hats depicted all sorts of animals, from elephants to mouses. The second half of the collection brought back Browne's showmanship in clothes. Like couture, the jackets and pants had an imaginative sensibility with broad shoulders and hips while the waist was kept slim. This made for a broad, regal silhouette, highlighted with leaf-prints and -appliqués.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Classicism meets purism in designer Ivan Mandzukic’s fall/winter 2014/15 collection. The most recent designs of menswear label IVANMAN were inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1973 classic La Montaña Sagrada – The Holy Mountain to reflect a play on gender roles. Classical shapes are accentuated femininely by the subtle use of transparency and details in the way the pieces are cut – strong overlapped shoulders and uniform shirts counter for an overall masculine look. IVANMAN’s new collection speaks a very personal and purist language while managing to cleverly update classics like trench coats, sweaters and pleated pants.
Mandzukic’s distinct sense for proportions paired with severe details like high-necked, stiff collars complete the menswear look for the upcoming fall season. A big selection of quality wool, delicate knits, cotton and heavy sweater fabric dominate the collection. The designer combines heavy hues such as Bordeaux and aubergine with soft beige and classic black and white for a seasonal color palette.
Kris van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
As young as the models at Kris van Assche's Fall/Winter 2014 collection looked, they surely looked ready to take on the world. Big coats made from thick wool or nylon were worn on classics like white shirts and slim pants. Extra layers consisted of round sweaters and sleeveless vests that were sometimes worn over suits to give the idea of a bullet proof vest. Aside from the protective attitude, there was also a time and a place for some fun with pop appliqués in multiple colors and short schoolboy blazers.
Julius at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In the presence of more than a few stroboscopes, Tatsuro Horikawa of Julius outed his Fall/Winter 2014 collection and it seemed to come straight from the future. Apparently the designer isn't to optimistic about it, as he mentions "extremely deformed bodies" and "nervous pulses" in the shownotes. Even though the day after tomorrow isn't all that what we hope to be, at least we can protect ourselves (and look cool) with the built-up shoulders and wrapped necklines of Julius. Mostly black, the collection experimented on layering and volume. Later, in white, the most comforting part of the show came: a material that evoked a blanket that was used for tunnel necks and big coats.
ICEBERG at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The new ICEBERG collection, introduced during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, clearly took inspiration in Bruce Wayne's Gotham City, transforming all it's protagonists into a heroic Batman. The innovative use of textures and prints in combination with luxurious and modern fabrics, underlined the spirit of transformation. Along with mohair knits, jacquard jackets, neoprene sweatshirts, silk and poplin shirts, Federico Curradi did not miss out on embellishing his garments with the brands signiture: 3D graphical prints.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Valentino's head-designers Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about their idea to bring a nonchalant and comfortable influence to their luxurious menswear. The shownotes explain: “Private becomes public and vice versa.” Which resulted in pajamas' in pinstripes or tweeds and big winter coats that feel like robes. The core of the Valentino-brand remains the tradition of Haute Couture and that even manifests itself in the menswear collections. As relaxed as some jackets and coats dance around the body, so much work goes into the inner workings of the garment, balancing it just right on the shoulder. This not only gives a feeling of craftsmanship to the wearer, but also reinforces the idea of comfort and homeliness. That also explains the rug-like materials for some coats and the luscious knits. Quirky details like an owl on the back with wings reaching over the shoulders took the collection out of the house and into the woods. And for that the Valentino-man has a decadent fishers hat.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Miuccia Prada showcased a restrained, yet eclectic menswear collection. Once again, she proofed her skills for traditional high-quality craftsmansship and her well developed sense of adjusting colours. Sporting shawl collars and satin Shirts were ascesoriesed with multicoloured fey scarves. Her setting was held in a rather minimalistic ambiance, featuring a live orchestra with German music from the thirties.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Philipp Plein's cowboy and Wild Western-themed collection, was born out of his childhood memories, when he dreamt of empty saloons, sheriffs on horses and hunted banditos. His looks were sometimes topless and accessorized with saddles, bolo ties, badges, reptile belts and fringes. Crystal studded blazers, biker jackets and sheriff dusters were the highlights of the show, which ended by a performance of legendary rapper Angel Haze.
KTZ at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
KTZ Fall/Winter 2014
For this year’s LC:M mens‘wear collection, KOKON TO ZAI' s spiritual-tribal interpretations have pushed the statement even further. Known for the use of meaningful symbols, the two designers Marjan Pejoski and Sasko Bezovski graced oversized bomber jackets, hoodies and tight leggins with leather lazer cuts in labyrinth-like sanskrit and cryptic typography, all kept in a monochromatic white and black colour palette.
G-STAR RAW UTILITY
After star chef Sergio Herman closed his memorable 3 Michelin star awarded restaurant Oud Sluis based in the Netherlands on the 22nd of December 2013, he now has a new life time project together with his right hand Nick Bril. Located in a chapel of a former military hospital in Antwerp, the 'The Jane' opens doors early 2014. For that occasion a specially designed workwear collection by G-Star will be launched: the G- STAR RAW Utility collection. The exclusive line adds an extra dimension to G-Star's passion for authentic functionality and consists of six designs with which the team, from chef to hostess to sommelier, can make their own combinations. 'Just like me, The Jane‘s concept is out of the box, which suits G-Star. The brand is raw, consistent and innovative, which is what I always try to be', says Sergio. He has put the finishing touches to the kitchen proof collection, including the chef's jacket with special pockets for culinary utensils.
The official launch of RAW Utility will take place in February 2014 during the opening of 'The Jane‚ in Antwerp. The innovative collection will be available online from March 2014.
REPLAY For FC Barcelona
As an official partner of the FC Barcelona, the denim brand REPLAY will design the formal outfits and casual wear of the Spanish football team for the next four years. Under the theme 'Denim, made to measure‘, the exclusive garments are tailor-made from high-quality materials, yet still strongly influenced by the brands denim heritage. For events, the players will wear two different looks in indigo-blue interpreting jeans in a new light. The first look consists of a custom-made suit of blue-gray iridescent comfort denim in combination with a shirt made of 100% cotton. Also the second look -a suit made of pure wool with dark-blue herringbone patterns- shows up the trendy slim-fit.
On top of this, the 'smart casual collection' creates a sporty, yet elegant look, inclu- ding the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans -the highlight of this line- washed with REPLAY's eco-friendly process in which high-pressure ice crystals reduce water consumption by 90%, minimising its en- vironmental impact. Furthermore, overcoats and newly- invented REPLAY footwear -including the Oxford and Brogue model- will complete the football players out-standing looks.
Fans can shop the FC Barcelona Capsule Collection FW 2013/14 including the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans in REPLAY stores and online.
G-SESSIONS Final - Vote Now
How to one up a year long anniversary celebration? By giving a group of young talents the chance to design their own G-SHOCK model in a contest. Renowned mentors from all G-SESSIONS destinations have selected one contestant to take under their wing and helped them create a watch design. The mentors are designer Patrick Mohr, singer and producer Ghostpoet, design-duo Tomas Overtoom and Liza Korfman, artist Kirikoo Des, action sport photographer Nikita Vilkin Yarutskiy, MTV presenter-turned DJ Johann Wald, Marcelo Burlon and County Of Milan designer Giorgio Di Salvo. A presentation entailing a song, a performance, a video clip or a piece of art supports each creation. From now on, the designs can be voted on online at www.g-sessions.de. Who will come out on top?
During the G-SESSIONS Finals on the 28th of November the winning design will be announced, and later produced and sold in a limited edition. Obviously, winning would rock. But so does voting, as all participants are in the mix to either win a limited edition of the winning design or a trip to Berlin to attend the G-SESSIONS Finals. In light of the award ceremony in Berlin, G-SHOCK will launch two new models from the Gold Series in rose gold. With analog digital displays in different gold hues and black, these sturdy models are treats for all G-SHOCK fans and a great pick-me-up in case you don‘t win a limited edition for voting.
G-Star RAW Presents Afrojack Capsule Collection
This November G-Star RAW is launching a unique six-piece capsule collection in collaboration with the Dutch DJ and music producer Afrojack. The limited collection consists of black leather and denim A-Crotch pants that G-Star designed in the brand's renowned 3D style, tailor-made for the acclaimed artist's performances earlier this year. In addition to that the collection features great T-shirts, a black hoodie and a cap, all dominated in black and white. The 'A' trademark is continued in the 'RAW' artwork and conveys a modern and technical feel with a glossy, high-density technique. Part of the collection will contribute to the MTV Music Awards.
The collection will be available from 10th of November. Watch the Making-of video on
Marc Jacobs Accessories Shop Opening
Some Marc Jacobs is great, but more Marc Jacobs is better. It doesn’t come as a surprise then that one of Berlin’s more luxe destinations – the Galeries Lafayette – have added the designer’s main line to their portfolio, which, until now, already included the younger and more affordable Marc by Marc Jacobs. The accessories shop is situated on the ground floor and offers goods from the Fall/Winter ‘13 collection, such as the super-feminine and modern “The Metropolitan" – a rather classical and sober bag in a high-velocity mix of velour and nappa leather.
Or the dearly personal “The 1984" – an elegant and feminine homage to the 80ies, Jacob’s graduation from Parsons The New School for Design, Madonna’s hit “Like a Virgin" and last but not least the designer’s encounter with Robert Duffy and the subsequent manifestation of the fashion brand under his name.
Levi's® Revel Launch
Denim is the universal everyday uniform. Skinny or high-waist, boyfriend or drop-crotch, the selection seems endless. Unfortunately, so does finding that one perfect pair. Enter Levi's®, who have been on the forefront of finding the perfect jeans throughout the company‘s history. Last night they unveiled their latest breakthrough at their Berlin store. What started with the female-only Lady Levi‘s® in 1934 and went high-tech with the Curve ID system in 2010 has gone through yet another evolution.
The Levi‘s® Revel employs liquid shaping technology, a system that infuses the denim with a liquid to control its stretch in all the important places and highlights the female form by lifting and modeling the silhouette. 'Super memory retention‘ in the four-way-stretch is an ideal partner in crime, letting the Revel snap back to its original form no matter what shenanigans they‘ve been put through.
The Revel is based on the Levi‘s® Curve ID Fit System, and available in Slight, Demi and Bold Curve. Details such as the special contouring finish, elongated seams or the positioning of pockets are supposed to optimize the silhouette. A number of finishes, washes and colors, as well as skinny or straight legs assure the right model for all shapes, sizes and tastes.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Kenzo for Spring/Summer 2014 staged a unique and impressive runway set with a huge waterfall installation and splashes synchronized with the music beat in a rather unusual neighbourhood for a Fashion Week Venue: the suburb Saint Denis.The collection was speaking the true vocabulary of nonchalance and effortlessness. Laid-back streetwear was combined with a strong manner of japanese aesthetics and modern fashion.
The two young designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to showcase a purist sense of permeability found in masculine cuts and sporty silhouettes. Sleeveless blazers, pleated pants and midriff blouses with fishes and waves transformed in graphic patterns were the key elements of most of the garments and illustrated Kenzo‘s affection for outstanding prints. The base colour of most of the pieces was a strong blue and lilac on a black and white base. Besides making a strong fashion statement, this show also committed to a strong political awareness regarding ocean pollution and overfishing.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The collection of iconic fashion designer Donatella Versace has been a divine highlight at this Spring/Summer 2014. Bringing up the attitude of rock energy and effortless luxury, it is all going in the direction of creating a fresh streetwear look for the day and a strong appearance at night. The coming season is going to be dominated by leather and denim. Low waisted circle skirts combined with bra‘s made of gauzy fabrics and again and again heavy silver chains and rivets are the basic substance of this collection. Followed by a range of pieces covered with floral patterns in the shades of lilac, as well as exclusive nightwear dresses made of shining fabrics, this collection is clearly a prelude to a powerful 21st century in the signature of Versace. The show got closed with the legendary summer hit „Versace“ by Mikos.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014
The must-see show on London Fashion Week’s schedule was no other than Vivienne Westwood, opening with a dramatic dance performance by Lily Cole inspired by Hans Christian Andersen.
Westwood later saying in an interview that this performance was about the consequence of global climate warming. Great craftsmanship and bizarre beauty got visible in hand tailored and draped jumpsuits and dresses dominated by olive green, earthy colours with floral photo prints. Climate as a key word printed on a top and crazy cosmetics related to the origin topic of environment change made this show outstanding and memorable.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela for this Spring/Summer 2014 showcased a conceptual collection highlighting pure perfection and vivacity. Accompanied by synth sounds and floating riffs, Margiela sent out on the runway contemporary casual garments, oversized tops and short cuted blazers. Speaking the true spring vocabulary in a neutral colour pallet, this collection shows an innovative attitude.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Onitsuka Tiger New X-Caliber Sneaker
Frontrunner of ‘80s sportswear, the iconic Onitsuka Tiger X-Caliber sneaker has been revived for 2013, and is fighting-fit to take on its increasingly urban 21st century surroundings. Heralded from birth for its intelligent practicality, function remains true to form – every inch the performance-boosting and injury-preventative staple that has proved faithful to athletes since 1982. Design, too, takes a step down the retro route; in its original swatches of blue, silver and off-white with red and royal accents, its distinctive vertical heel vents an aid to movement and cushioning for the foot, as its ‘quadra’ lacing inimitably zig-zags the tongue. The redesign of the new X-Caliber does not go without sharpening its cutting-edge: breathable mesh material softens the ‘80s blow, while a thick Memory EVA mid-sole considerately supports the foot of the modern day wearer. A sneaker whose founding vantage point was set leaps and bounds ahead of its time, the X-Caliber seems to slot seamlessly into the present, exploiting an edited silhouette and established heritage to compete with and overtake its more measured contemporaries.
Camper Together with Bernhard Willhelm
Ever laced up in erratic beauty, Bernhard Willhelm's lucid aesthetic rarely fails to be brand itself as provocative – maniacally eclectic at the very least. His next collection for Camper's Fall/Winter line delves into the exotic, generating innovative and sporty styles to stand anarchically alongside the coveted Himalayan sneaker of collaborations past, reinterpreted ready for its latest incarnation.
Potent monochrome pigments are the product of the Himalayan's most recent evolution; in black, white and Royal blue, they are flexibly unisex, quiet with their peachskin contrasts, yet without falling short of statement detail. Corrugated platforms inject a less obvious slant on streetwear, while cartoony hose laces bundle on the tongue, grey and white threads twined to pull together its most distinguishing attributes.
Fresh offerings, like the Everest, too deliver an unconventional classic, aligning an original monotone upper with an inflate outsole for a brazen pop statement. An exclusive womenswear piece plays on the typical cowboy boot skeleton, boldly divided in two-tone suede and slouching aloof for a cooler, more comfortable update of a renowned silhouette. They say Bernhard Willhelm sees the beauty in chaos – his collection for Camper delivers just that.
Levi's 501 Celebrates 140th Anniversary With Book Launch
A 20th century icon, it's hard to believe the immortal Levi 501 jean walked into its 140th year with the turn of the calendar. Ripened and reshaped since 1873, its silhouette has evolved and abstracted definition by the hands of its forebearers, unfurling into an icon itself throughout the course of its unfleeting lifetime.
To document its status as an artifact of modern times, Levi's have complied a catalogue of photographs for the book Levi's 501 Interpretation, the denim the esteemed subject of 501 personal styles. Its compelling personalization makes for compulsive page turning, the unique charmisma of each sitter providing constant refreshment and charm. Limited to a droll 501 special editions, the book was launched last Wednesday with a viewing at Berlin's 032c workshop, to a warm reception which counted Clemens Schick, Coco Krebitz and Hien Le as its guests.
Levi's 501 Interpretation will be available online and in selected stores worldwide from August.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
More than multifaceted, Lanvin's Fall/Winter campaign teetered on the schizophrenic: twelve frames and twelve inongruous characters. Starring Edie Campbell, Abiah Hostvedt and Miles Langford, the studio portraits and short film depict a story styled to conntradict and confuse.
With Steven Meisel behind the lens, composision is reliably exacting, with painterly lighting further sculpting the air of a masterpiece. Powerfully statuesque, there is something of the Norman Parkinson belle in Campbell's pose. A bafflingly eclectic wardrobe spans kitsch and couture, whether its a butterfly/cow skin hybrid dress and turban or flared '50s shifts, its the indiscriminate hotchpotch of styles that brings the looks together as a whole. Brooches and bags studded with the words 'love', 'help' and 'cool' disorientate with their mixed messages and garish luxury.
Menswear, meanwhile, finds ground between sartorial and sportswear, pairing a rucksack and sneakers with an artfully mismatched suit. Animals under arm, Lanvin hits on a look that is fashionably derranged.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
PERRET SCHAAD Spring/Summer 2014
Off the beaten Fashion Week track, duo PERRET SCHAAD called to the Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the later works of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The upper floor and exhibition space, a 2500 m² glass hall, inspired the concept for the spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD show. While the everyday museum operations commenced, guests cued up around the building and viewed the show through the glass windows. The duo makes use of both noble and tactile materials. What really makes their designs are the precise cuts and the inventive draping which result in sharp and sensual silhouettes. Lines and patterns evoke structure and fluidity, while forms and volume draw the classic and the new. Juxtaposing feminist and romantic, disciplined and free notes express the label's aesthetic. For spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD relied on fine silks, fresh linens, and soft cottons, all natural and rich materials. Their color palette ranges from light to gunmetal gray, from sky blue to deep ink, interlaced with pops such as fuchsia. Through the process of draping and pattern cutting they create fluid and sculptural forms that interact with each other in contrast and harmony. The collection reflects the flexibility and multitude of the urban environment while being committed to an accentuated simplicity.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Issever Bahri Spring/Summer 2014
During MBFWB, Issever Bahri showcased a collection filled with contrasts. Inspiration came in the form of Turkploitation of the 70s, the low budget copying of Hollywood productions. What often resulted in one-of-a-kind pieces, funny and sometimes absurd, served as the foundation of Issever Bahri's spring/summer 2014 collection. Crocheted leather bands formed nets, which Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri molded into pants, skirts, tops and dresses, married with shiny and sheer fabric. Ornaments are a tribute to the designer's Turkish heritage and emblazoned symmetrically cut sweaters, dresses and jackets. They come in either a white-red combo or different shades of green. In using belts, the duo pulls in the waist, adding femininity to their designs. For all its sophistication, the collection, much like its inspiration is loud and out there - a fun addition for spring/summer 2014.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Michalsky Spring/Summer 2014
Michalsky's show, the StyleNite at the end of MBFWB, basks in the flashy entertainment of fashion. The venue is just a little larger, the runway a little wider and the guest list a little more notorious. Ahead of his show and in between his mens and womenswear collection, the show's vibe is held at party-level with musical acts such as NONONO and MS MR. Both super fun and energetic, amping the audience for what is to come. When it comes to the collections themselves, Michalsky has internalized one thing: never change a running system. The mere number of looks for each collection, both titled 'Sweet Freedom', is astounding and every single one is decidedly Michalsky-esque. Nothing too out there, but a showcasing of some great pieces interlaced with the major trends for spring/summer 2014, which had become evident throughout the week. With the Michalsky man it is never quite clear if he's a flamboyant cool kid, dressed in slim, sharp reddish orange or blue suits and understated khaki pieces teamed with small-scale geometrical prints or a slightly smug pretty boy, in silver metallic parkas and matching shoe – belt combos. The menswear collection certainly holds a piece for every level of bravado. For his womenswear presentation the designer put forward solid, wearable looks. His color palette here differed and he relied on shades from light goldenrod and tangerine to business-like gray and white, elegant black and a pretty cloud print. While Michalsky stuck to easily interchangeable and levelheaded designs, the overall feel was decidedly younger from his previous showcases with long summer coats over shorts or mini skirts and flowing chiffon skirts tossed together with simple shirts and biker jackets. He also tried his hand in more daring dinner jackets – short and slim with low necklines and contrasting lapels. Many of the pieces exuded that special summer feeling, fresh and cavalier.
lala Berlin Spring/Summer 2014
The spacious Opernwerkstätten provided the backdrop for the fun, colorful and sexy spring/summer 2014 show of Lala Berlin. Easy breezy pieces came down the runway, from amazing prints to heavy knits and leather and flowing silk. Tropical palm prints, light and airy dresses, tiny shorts and sun hats. Minimalist leather shirts, ingenious knit bomber jackets and patterned mini skirts are perfect transitional pieces for all aspects of summer time: from the asphalt jungle of the big city to the sandy beaches of far away islands. The collection's color palette spans from pure white to soft peach, turquoise and black. Long dresses and one-pieces contrast pants and culottes.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Viktor & Rolf Fall Couture 2013
Having distanced themselves from the couture catwalks since their last show in the year 2000, Viktor & Rolf have broken a thirteen-year hiatus with a show that more than makes up for the silence.
Twenty outfits in total – each one an all-black experimentation of shadow and silhouette. It seems a single-color palette really is the key to ensnaring a second look, the eclipsing sobriety oppressing the eye to search for its finer details. You don't have to search long though, when faced with Viktor & Rolf's artful forms.
Collars kept things classic when hemlines ducked from conformity, taking allusive shapes and bounding volumes. Surface stitching served to set curves into neoprene-satin bodies, somehow avoiding the inescapable 'scuba' allegations that come with the use of such a material. Even with sandals, the look was made for neither beach nor water – rather with gently robing cloaks and a subtle nod to the mandarin collar, pieces took heed from the quiet elegance of traditional Japanese dress. Grassy fringing climbed arm to neck, sprouting here and there as an organic accent. Such tranquil embellishment made for a meditative show – a thought not lost on Viktor, who reflected, “Our current state of mind is mindfulness” – a pensive adage for a pensive return.
SOPOPULAR Spring/Summer 2014
On day one of MBFWB, menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased its latest – by now ninth - collection, titled ‘Black Hole Sun’. 90s music and Japanese architect Tadao served as inspiration for designer Daniel Blechman’s twelve spring/summer 2014 looks. Soundgarden’s 1994 song ‘Black Hole Sun’ - a milestone for grunge - is not just a big inspiration for the designer, but also lends its name to the collection. SOPOPULAR’s silhouette remains classic, with slim cuts and clear lines. Pieces range from slim pants to relaxed shorts, color blocked knits and designs in the ombré look. The color scheme relies on the consistent use of black, white and grey, playing into the distinctive SOPOPULAR aesthetic. One of the highlights is certainly the 3D black-and-white cube print, which can be seen on shirts, shorts and bomber jackets. For spring/summer 2014, Blechman mixes materials such as smooth leather, suede, cotton and viscose. Once again, SOPOPULAR has managed to put forward modern classics, which will outlast seasonal trends.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Achtland Spring/Summer 2014
Designer duo Achtland are newcomers to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. For their first show, they delivered an extravaganza of feminine creations, a contemporary mix of 50s details, layering and color. The spectrum for spring/summer 2014 ranged from white to dove and light blue tones, from sunny yellow to deep midnight blue. Floral detailing added extra sass to the collection and contrasted cool clean and purist lines. With this extraordinary collection, Achtland has made a summery statement, adding excitement for what the duo’s upcoming collections will hold in store.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
22/4_hommes_femmes Spring/Summer 2014
The label by designer Stephanie Hahn, 22/4_Hommes_Femmes, entered the official menswear calendar in Paris this year with a collaction that mixes classicism and sportswear. The past collections have always been excercises in lightness, balance and subtleness and Hahn pushes that attitude with her most recent outing, resulting in a refined and sophisticated wardobe full of options. A big inspiration for the designer was the artist Robert Ryman with this white-on-white paintings which made for fresh clothing and layered lines. Rather than being cool, the collection gave warmth with wrap-closings and fluid silhouettes. Hahn also took traditional menswear details and gave them new twists like a necktie sewn into a collarless button-down and “collar stays” in mother of pearl.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
It was the second time Hedi Slimane presented a runway collection for men at Saint Laurent and, like we'd come to expect from him, it was a polarizing one. This season, he looked at the fifties and Teddy Boys, hence the ducktail hair, baseball jackets and rockabilly buckled boots. The last look, a model wearing a black tux and fire-red hair, was a clear reference to the designer's icon, David Bowie, who started it all for him. Slimane, both the designer and the photographer, is obsessed with youth culture and music and it was the rock and roll atmosphere that oozed from this collection with band members walking the runway in a dome-like setting. It may not be the Saint Laurent we think we know but it is a fact that Yves himself was also interested in youth-culture and in that way, Hedi is pushing the house forward while staying in line with it's traditions. At the end of the day, he is starting one of the most interesting discussions in fashion at the moment.
Cerruti 1881 Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection by Cerruti 1881 was presented in a modern tent in the courtyard of a very old Parisian townhouse. This was quite a good metaphor for the collection, which combined traditional tailoring with modern ideas. All garments were quintessentially classic; suits, shirts, overcoats and trenchcoats but most of them had a twist to them. The opening coats for instance were so light and fluid that with their length they almost looked ethnic, like a Moroccan djebella. Also new was the internal band attached at the chest in some jackets that was pulled over the other panel of the jacket to give it a completely new sillhouette.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kim Jones showed his collection for Louis Vuitton in a huge greenhouse with the models entering the stage from a wooden construction, reminiscent of an American barn. That part of the world was exactly what Jones had in mind while designing the collection. From the varsity-details to the tie-dye and bandana-prints, it was all about the freedom of the US. The designer, a fond traveler, even took the dorky prom suits but made them significantly less dorky and more chic.
Gucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Restrained design is something of a stranger to Gucci. How come, then, Frida Giannini pulled it off with such style? Outsized T-shirts conquered shirts in the quest to vanquish the generic suit. That said, traditional shape played a part in the battle. Assuming a chinoiserie camouflage, it was ‘dressed to kill’ – all spotted sheaths of white and bright satin.
Leather, too, possessed a pleasing fluidity, in tanned swathes like honeyed skin. White danced with beige to a controlled routine – plain pea coats and anoraks leaving little room for expression, though curiosity lies elsewhere: knitwear found its way as its less than prim self. All open-weave and slouched cut, it was a refreshing tincture compared with the accustomed aesthetic. Such a bounding leap from the dark begs further questions as to where the brand is headed. One thing’s for sure: the path looks promising.
Missoni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Missoni held its own this season with its tawny marl knits. Skinny-cut suits in all varieties of biscuit beige swept down the runway, primary red standing as the most alarming punctuation to a taupe camouflage. Stripes recurred, as did zigzag – this time unassuming in hushed tones. Shawl-collared knits lent a touch of femininity, but brutish beards took it all away.
Like luggage stickers plastered across a battered leather valise, patchwork prints edged with trimmings left the hallmark of the nomad. Drawstring pouches, too, dangled from necks like that of a wandering shaman – Missoni’s designs the handsome remedy.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2014
As a label for whom tri-stripes and padding make up the fabric of the brand, it's a wonder Moncler Gamme Bleu hadn't met cricket whites before. With untainted purity, bulksome shapes gleam, punctured only by the invasive underscore of tri-colored edging.
Long socks meet shorts somewhere in the middle, knees bared like the inverse of padding. Protectivewear, as it happens, can be remarkably stylish. Shielding limbs with voguish concern, quilting and mesh gave depth, as well as dynamism. Vests skirt in aproned defence – paired with padded blazers, the effect is assuredly masculine. Edges rounded by patent binding steer the look from severity, jumping the fine line that divides clinical and futuristic. Nylon webbing, while sporty, can't help but seem space-age, making white lace-up ankle saddles appear all the more like moonboots. Who knew safety gear could be so directional?
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Diesel Black Gold show was decidedly black/white. One-color-clad, pieces piled-high the monochrome feel, evocative of a film negative. The theme threaded through right to the finest detail, with slicked-back hair in polarised shades, from Billy Idol blonde to the deepest of jets. And with that, the look was set: leather bombers marked the stamp of the rebel, brushing shoulders with its converse – the tailored slack pant.
So as not to look too cared-for, distressed denim played an integral part to the piece, artfully flecked with painted palms. Texture, meanwhile, was deep and rich, filling out a hollow palette with a meatier frame. Lighter weight fabrics arrived in all forms; parachute silks, grained viscose and organzas in feminine florals – all knocked down by the mighty punch of matte black leather. For only the fourth runway show by the label, its speech was considerably fluent, so it looks as though excitement will run high for its fifth.
Dsquared² Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Beneath a canopy of tropical ferns lurks the untamed Spring/Summer collection of Dsquared² Khakis to the ready, buttoned down shirts call for knee-knocking safari shots in the earthiest of forest greens – pith helmet optional.
Utilitywear caters to your inner explorer, never wanting to be short of a breast pocket or two. Cotton drill lays the canvas for bush jackets and combats to take shape. The mood soon evolves, notably lightened by silken spots in sherbert hues.
White sweeps through like a clean gust of breeze, taking a load off heavy-weighted leather, which almost looks thirsty from the sun.
Prints guest – briefly yet brightly – parading pieces like a blaring mural. African artwork ornaments graphically, overpowering the quiet rustle of fine leaf motifs. Pattern is bought to a close by golden thatched jacquard, weaving rafia geometrics into splendidly tailored suits. King of the Jungle, indubitably.
Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2014
They say absence makes the heart grow fonder. If anything could illustrate the truth of such a statement, it would be the unanimous fervor surrounding Stefano Pilati's return to the runway this menswear season. The move from YSL to Zegna could be considered something of a quantum leap, and a contrast that was not wasted on Pilati, who appeared to take advantage of the unshackled color palette.
Gone was the severity of yore, ushered out by taupes and hunter greens. Black did make a cordial appearance, though its presence was fleeting and manner unforthcoming, submitting control to the gentler details. Layers filled depths that were hollowed by minimalism, as featherweight knits grazed shirts and suit jackets in the same touch, while ditsy geometrics filled in the blanks. Proportions teased, whether it was overcoats to cocoon or abruptly tailored cut-offs. Cuffs, too, were rolled with imaginative flair, as wrists were wrapped like swadling to the three-quater point. In fluid crepe fabrics, robed trench coats in squared-off lines gave the wonderful impression of a ribbon-wrapped gift – as good a metaphor as any for Pilati's benevolent first offer for Ermenegildo Zegna.
Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The catwalk shows of Dolce&Gabbana replay digital print like a looping blockbuster marathon. This screening, however, seemed somewhat more cinematic than most. Maybe it was the colour – etched out in the sepia tones, classical columned temples resonated in the eyes of the early Hollywood film fan, which played out before such scenes.
For the most part, tones remained subdued, allowing the intricacy to speak for itself. Bomber jackets made the graphic guise look easy. As for the 3 piece suit: although impossibly difficult to wear, it was a thing of beauty, nonetheless. Patterns complimented – the quiet stripe of slim-fit pants replicating the pillared architecture of ancient Italy. Blossomed silks provided a brief séjour from an otherwise crusading collection, while raw cloth rags buffed the fine edges to relic.
As for shape, there was nothing historical about the square shell-tee – unless of course, atop a muscular form, from which it assumed gladiatorial proportions. Then again, Dolce&Gabbana’s contemporary classicism has amassed quite an arena, all eyes on their heroic prints.
Paul Smith Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
“Wearable with a point of view” was how Paul Smith described his latest designs. In the novel location of Savile Row’s Hauser & Wirth Gallery, Smith revealed his collection in a most unconventional way.
In the middle of the room lay the installation work of fine artist Subodh Gupta - a salvage yard of a shipwreck, overflowing with odds and ends – fitting for Smith’s design ethos, which extracted the influence of abstract ideas, crafting “simple shapes using fabric that was based on a windowpane or a pinstripe”.
Fabric is Smith’s magician’s wand, as his Spring/Summer collection would attest. The product of a partnership with the Clissold Mill, Yorkshire, traditional weaves were re-imagined when herringbone assumed the form of the Union Jack. Canvassing giant screens which served as a backdrop for the final products, Smith’s masterful coordination of contemporary and classic styles stood as a testament to his station at the pinnacle of British menswear.
Hackett London Spring/Summer 2014
In one jaunty step it was off to the boat race, where Hackett London's riviera wardrobe will go down just swimmingly.
A taste for brazen pattern that conflicts in the most civilized of manners is the veritable mark of an eccentric Englishman, in shades both complementary and harmonizing alike. Baby hues pop to pronounce layered seperates; peach, lemon, and spearmint shades arm the delectable palette of the collection, making way for a compass of blues, ranging from duck-egg to navy, to accent pieces with prestige.
Oxford slacks are the go-to staple, whether in blushing tints or intrepid checks, worn long or rolled up to the ankle for a more contemporary twist. Accessories are similarly sartorial – as bow-ties and cravats see that the all-important trimmings of the Hackett man are never in short supply. Heritage brogues and tassel loafers cast the footstep of a shrewd dresser, while adroitly-matched pocket squares and shoulder-cloaking cardigans speak of a true English gentleman.
Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
From beneath the redundant railway arches of Kings Cross came a vision in white. All lace and pallid skin bought something of the modern day beau to London yesterday. At once sharply-suited and undone, stiffly starched collars poked their wings from wrinkled silk, as knuckle-grazing cuffs second-guessed the astute dressing of the dandy. Mary Janes, meanwhile, trod the industrial cobblestones with a distrinctly feminine authority, blurring the boundaries which fashion gender with Regency resonance.
Distressed knits layered shell-structured tees, webbing ivories into a monochrome scheme. Silhouette remained true to tradition, with only subtle shake-ups to conventional tailoring; casual pieces flirted with heritage, while sleeves were sheered to bare arms in a twist to challenge formality.
Embelishment, on the other hand, was an altogether modest affair, overruled by the mixing of minimalist pieces in a playful repertoire of lengths. Nonetheless, when print was on the cards, it truly made its presence known. Jacquard flocks and candy stripes were unabashedly busy, evoking layer upon layer of peeling wallpaper – only to be understated by Sarah Burton's stripped-down interpretations of the plain black suit.
Converse x Ace Hotel Pro Leather
Born of their third collaboration with the Ace design hotel, Converse are to release the limited edition Pro Leather sneaker.
In premium white leather, the letter A is perforated to create a subtle motif. Texture and colour speak the same language, with muted sophistication the main undertone. Soft clay tones provide its only embellishment to chisel the distinguishing features of the Converse sneaker: soft suede contrasts, a round toe cap and iconic chevron star. Customers can chose between classic white cotton or leather laces – the perfect accent to their chalky touch.
Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Superb tailoring is nothing new for Giorgio Armani. Perhaps more interesting, was his execution of crisp cut-out shape. Navy, as expected, laid the groundwork for the line, but bursting through with vivacious zeal, were hot pinks and scuba blues. Suits hushed in blushing hues – the grainy linen they coveted was equally subdued.
Surface detail roused when pieces looked their most pristine, in ambient geometrics that were surprisingly contemporary. Petrol prints puddled short sleeved tees, while diamonds flocked with a neon glow under slouchy blazers, like drunk argyle. Even in their sober state, golfing knits looked somewhat under the influence; pastel hues turned kaleidoscopic and zig zag dissipated to plain stripe. Collarless shirts, too, took their button lines on the bias, wringing all meaning from reference with one modern twist.
While such innovation is not requisite for an established aesthetic like that of Armani, his ceaseless ability to refresh tradition does not go unnoticed.
Diesel Reboot Campaign
When Nicola Formichetti was made artistic director at Diesel back in April, we all knew that spelled total corporate reinvention. Fresh from his previous post at the creative helm of Mugler, Formichetti wasted no time in making his mark on the brand, with the announcement of his initiative, Diesel Reboot. Though his design influence will not materialise until the release of their Fall/Winter 2014 collection, the new Initiation Campaign indicates the transformation is well underway. Drawn upon ideas that were pitched to the brand by their Tumblr audience, imagery is unexpected, to say the least,. Beside text that reads “I resurrect the destructed”, the boy called BOYCHILD stands with hands together and adorned in clerical vestments made of denim. In what is unquestionably a directonal step for the label, the promotion speaks loudly of Formichetti's plans to restore Diesel to its former glory, pulling the brand back into relevance once again.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
One Night Only Roma by Giorgio Armani
Tonight Giorgio Armani will unveil a new 900 square-meter boutique in the heart of Rome's luxury shopping district, Via Condotti. Spread over three floors, the boutique is one of only two exclusive Giorgio Armani stores to offer a dedicated area where customers can order custom-made haute couture accessories.
To celebrate, the label are staging a grand opening, One Night Only Roma, at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome, where catwalk shows will present new versions of the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani fall/winter collections. The venue will also premier the Eccentrico exhibition – open to the public from June 6th - 9th – and will showcase an exquisite retrospective of Giorgio Armani designs dating back from 1985.
Full coverage of the event will be streamed online on their dedicated website from 9pm on June 5th. In the days leading up to the event, a new interactive website has paid tribute to both the brand and the city of Rome with a live countdown, previews of the opening and exclusive video interviews with Giorgio Armani himself.
Marni Uomo book
When Marni stopped showing it's menswear collection on the runway, they started using multimedia resources to showcase their latest outings. Last season they made a short film and this time a book is released. This will not be a regular lookbook but an artproject with art director Dean Langley and photographer Clare Shilland.
Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni was inspired by the work of Dean Langley and wanted his outsider view for this presentation. She was interested in collaborating with someone who isn't involved with the design of the collection and brings a new perspective to the clothing. This resulted in a non linear portfolio of images with graphic elements and beautiful stills. Recurring theme is the color shocking fluo pink, which is also featured on the limited edition T-shirt in honour of the project.
Vivienne Westwood to redesign Virgin Atlantic's iconic Red Uniform
After over a decade Virgin Atlantic will redesign its original uniform – and who better to approach than leading British designer, Vivienne Westwood. The collaboration is a 10 year, long-term project which will see a total re-design of the uniform across all areas.
With original design, sustainability and reducing the environmental impact of business being vital factors to both Richard Branson and Vivienne Westwood, this long term design project aims to bring these ideals together in an exciting and innovative collaboration.
For the new uniforms Vivienne Westwood wanted to create a futuristic look which nevertheless referenced her enduring interest in 40’s French couture cutting techniques as well as the Savile Row tailoring heritage.
Alongside the women’s and men’s cabin crew and pilot’s uniforms, which will be unveiled later this year, all Virgin Atlantic uniforms from Clubhouse staff to the Virgin Holidays team will be re-designed by the iconic designer. Passengers will receive a sneak peak of the new uniforms on board from June 2013 ahead of the full launch in 2014
Karl Lagerfeld Store Opening Amsterdam
On the 25th of April, forward-thinking fashion brand Karl Lagerfeld opens its new Amsterdam concept store to the public. Selected press including ZOO Magazine and Dutch celebrities already got to take a sneak peek at the store's concept before everybody else.
On 150 square meters and two floors the luxury fashion is combined with the newest digital technology. The womenswear can be found on the ground floor along with matching accessories, footwear and eyewear, while the current men's collection and accessoires are available on the lower ground floor. On iPads the customers can make use of a digital guestbook, where they can view the latest collections, Karl Lagerfeld news and also take pictures of their favourite items. Fitting rooms function as photobooths, enabling customers not only to try on clothes, but also instantly share pictures of new outfits on social media platforms such as Facebook or Twitter.
Essential to the store's design is the contrast between elements – shiny and matte, black and white, old and new. The achitecture of the old 18th century house built near the canals is perfectly incorporated into the modern design of the store. Located at Hartenstraat 16 and right in the heart of Amsterdam, the store is surrounded with buzzing cafés, quirky vintage stores and high-end boutiques of the 9 Straatjes. More Karl Lagerfeld store openings are about to follow in other major European cities and the expansion into Asian markets is another goal of the brand to be achieved by the end of 2013.
From Nature to Armani/Casa
Not only famous for its high-end fashion, accessories and fragrances, the luxury fashion house Giorgio Armani also has its own home collection. The newest collection by Armani/Casa draws its inspiration from the eternal beauty and infinite power of nature. From Nature To Armani/Casa portrays how nature stays a sensitive force and source of inspiration in the business of everyday urban life.
Pure lines and simple shapes define the furniture design and eco-friendly materials are used for their production. Elegant tables with surfaces of striped banana tree wood or frames out of shiny walnut tree wood are a great addition to any living room, while the highlight might be a large wardrobe in the design of a vintage trunk. Fabrics used for Armani/Casa are exclusive wool as well as silk fabrics in earthy colours and a bright orange by Rubelli. Items like Nepalese carpets that tell the tales of distant worlds complete the collection.
Laserblast Club Collection by Replay
For Fall/Winter 2013-14 Replay created the Laserblast Club capsule collection. The denim collection has a young feel to it and its goal is to take casual denim to the clubs. Picking up on vibes and atmospheres of a night out, the collection features anything from sexy dresses to smart blazers. For both women and men this capsule collection has the essential garments for having drink at a chic bar or dancing the night away in the most hip clubs.
Plus the laserblast technology is not only cutting-edge, but also very environment friendly. In times, where people all around the world are encouraged to go green, Replay conrtibutes by reducing their water usage by 85% in their laserblast denim production.
Levi's® Vintage Clothing Exhibition Opening in Berlin
The 14 oz. in Berlin has recently had a special treat for its visitors. Beside the clothes ranges of menswear and womenswear the shoppers are now welcomed by a special exhibition supporting the Levi's® Vintage Clothing Spring/Summer 2013 collection.
The exhibition pays tribute to the early days of the Hot Rod and honours its legends such as Norm Grabowski. Especially after the second world war, the Americans broke out the tradition to tinker with their cars and to make them faster. But not only cars were 'hot-rodded' – suddenly anything from embellished clothes to custom-made guitars appeared.
35 “Kustom Monster Shirts” by Von Franco, a film by Aaron Rose as well as a unique Fender Custom Shop 1957 Stratocaster are part of the exhibition. It's like being taken back to that moment in time, when the trend emerged to make everything better and faster. The exhibition bringing the past to the present is located in the 14 oz. Haus Cumberland at the Kurfürstendamm 193-194 in Berlin.
Woolrich Hiking Blazer by Tokito
The current collections by Woolrich are inspired by the pioneering citizen journalists, who mingled in war journalism in the late 60s. They invented a completely new way of dressing by mixing professional wear with military elements.
One of the highlights derriving from this inspirational theme is the Travel collection – a mini collection taking ideas from the concept of a reporter’s life, always on the move and traveling around. It includes a versatile and easy-to-wear range of garments, combining functionality and comfort. There are coats with inside and outside pockets, pants with waterproof zips and the ergonomic 3-layer Hiking Blazer with pockets and a hood, which was designed by Tokito. These garments will proof useful even on rainy summer days and bring back fashion as well as function at the same time.
John Malkovich for Yoox
John Malkovich’s brand Technobohemian just released an exclusive men’s beachwear capsule collection for the online fashion store yoox.com. From March 2013 – and just in time to prepare for summertime – these versatile garments will join the online shop’s range and will be ready for men to order from over 100 countries all around the world.
The collection features essential pieces needed for summer. Light summer jackets, bermuda shorts, polo-shirts and swimwear make the collection what it is. Timeless and ideal to combine with seasonal pieces this year but also the ones to come, these garments will be a great addition to every men’s wardrobe. From sartorial to casual – it was Malkovich’s goal to create garments, which can be worn to every occasion.
The clothes are Made in Italy. This means a guarantee of highest quality and the use of finest fabrics. Light linen, leather, seersucker and cotton are the most used fabrics of the capsule collection. The comfortable and bright to neutral coloured collection is already available on yoox.com.
G-Shock X Maison Martin Margiela
Everything is still very secretive around a certain collaboration between the luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and the G-Shock watch. One thing is certain though: To celebrate the 30th birthday of the G-Shock, a new model of the GA-300 will hit the stores in the end of March 2013.
The GA-300MMM will feature a detachable leather band and it has been hinted that the 0-23 numbers of the fashion designer will feature as a pattern. The watch will be a limited edition with a number of 3,000 and only 300 stores all around the world will stock it. The exciting collaboration promises to be a successful one, but for now all one can do is wait and long for more details about the design of the covetable watch.
Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14
Stone grey is the essential colour of the Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, which just showed at the Mode Suisse Edition 3 in Zürich. The bi-annual Swiss fashion event is all about presenting established and young Swiss fashion brands in a simple and elegant way.
The runway show of Marc Stone was dominated by minimalist designs and clear shapes. Classic dress shirts in dark green, checkered wool jumpers, long open cardigans and simple, yet elegant blazers were some of the designs. Quilted cotton piqué for cowl neck jumpers and soft pants explores new shapes and use of material. Fine tailoring and high quality fabrics define the garments.
Large grey and black weekend bags as well as backpacks of luxurious leather are the accessories for winter time and will protect anything inside from snow and rain. Classic, yet modern the collection shows versatility and is worthy of being part of any man’s wardrobe.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013-14
It was the second season designed by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. His Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection spread a youthful vibe and grunge feel inside the Grand Palais and continued where the runway show of his menswear collection had left off. In a way it was a surprise how he went through with his idea of bringing back 90s grunge yet again, but the designs themselves looked familiar and were all the less shocking.
It was like going back and searching through a punk teen’s closet. The collection displayed what the find of that search could look like – oversized vintage cardigans, plaid men’s shirts, sequined sweater dresses, duffle coats, cut off jeans skirts, floaty flowery dresses, biker leather jackets, black lace slip dresses, furry coats with leopard patterns and rebellious leather bustiers bearing it all.
The list could go on and on. The collection’s variety of garments was remarkable, but nothing looked quite new. The garments were all worn with fishnet tights and bulky leather boots. The show almost left the audience in puzzled disbelief, when the light darkened after the last dress on the runway had been an unusual girly peter pan collar dress with a flowery pattern. However, the show still got a strong finish with a mass of models in tight leather dresses walking down the runway like a mob of punk rock chicks.
Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection pairs classic fits with playful details and from girly dresses with pockets to elegant gowns to wear on a night out, it has it all. While the collection started off with white garments making the models look like youthful ice princesses, the final dresses out of flowy fabrics had a more grown up feel to them.
A lot of pleats were seen throughout the whole collection. Whether on sleeveless shirt dresses, on jackets or blouses, it was all in the details. Among the variety of coats the highlight was without doubt the final piece – a wide furry parka in white, grey and black with a big hood, paired with a dress featuring an graphic black and white print of large tulips. The petals and stalks remind of spring time and bring back the memories of sunshine to the winter days.
Black, snow white and icy grey with a touch of a silverish shine were the neutral colours of the collection, while a warm brown as well as splashes of cornflower blue, bright pink and fiery red added more colour. Quilted leather jackets, furry collars, a button through skirt with fringes ending just above the knee as well as fringy hemlines on jackets and coats were essential to the collection.
Studio Africa by Diesel + Edun
Diesel + Edun just celebrated the launch of their collaboration entitled Studio Africa – a denim collection born in Africa. It is a 25 piece collection of womenswear and menswear, which finds its inspiration in African creativity. The denim collection is manufactured in nothern African countries with the finest CCI cotton from Uganda.
The initial idea for the collection came into being because of Diesel founder Renzo Rosso's and Edun founders Ali Hewson and Bono's passion for the African continent, while they travelled Uganda and Mali. The collection circles around a reinterpretation of the 70s four-pocket jean that was popular on the streets of South Africa. Malian textile patterns, Kenyan metalwork and embroidery reminding of traditional Zulu weaving patterns influenced the designs as well. To bring across the African spirit, the campaign of Studio Africa features nine African artists from the creative fields of fashion, film, music, literature and photography. The online presence of Diesel + Edun is curated by Okayafrica and offers a new platform to capture the continent's current cultural and political atmosphere.
The launch event in Paris included a dinner and party, where Solange performed as the advocate of Studio Africa. Among the many celebrities attending the party were Kanye West, Tilda Swinton, Adrien Brody and Ellen von Unwerth. The series of global live events in cooperation with the online music broadcaster Boiler Room celebrating the collection's launch is going to continue in Berlin. The invite-only event is taking place in Club P.O.P on the 7th of March. Other stops on the launch tour include Tokyo, London and L.A.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
The heavy red curtains at the back of the runway opened and out came a parade of models wearing what looked like a tribute to religion and its architecture. For their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let themselves be inspired by the monumental mosaics of architecture of ancient Italian churches.
Portraits of religious figures from the mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily were featured on the dresses and tops. The look of the holy imagery was completed by using glistening sequins, golden threads and embroided crystals resembling rubies and emeralds. The models looked gorgeous – red lips, pure skin, large glistening earrings and especially their golden crowns made their look untouchable, like they were religious figures themselves.
Key designs of the collection were large, but still very feminine coats and tops with wide sleeves. Apart from the range of opulent golden garments, a number of elegant pieces of grey herringbone fabric joined the collection. Mini skirts and high waisted knickers in black brocade or embellished red fabric were combined with wide shirts and blouses. The main colours of red, white and black reminded of some of the most important liturgical colours, but sheer lace dresses revealing the models' black underwear were not as innocent as rules of the Catholic chuch permit. Despite the current disputes surrounding the Catholic church due to the pope's resignation, Dolce & Gabbana well in using religion as its inspirational source and enriched the fashion world with yet another beautiful collection.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14
During London Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood took over the space of the Saatchi Gallery. There is always a rebellious feel and a punk attitude to Vivienne Westwood's collections and the presentation of her Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection was no exception.
A bright azure blue was chosen as one of the most dominant colour of the season combined with tones of red and black. Zebra patterns, plaids and stripes were reocurring patterns amongst many others. Tailored blazers and dresses with cowl necklines brought out a new femininity and elegance. Knee length skirts and loose trousers were key designs of the collection, while a few mini skirts and colourful shorts still retained a young and sexy spirit. A lot of shimmering fabrics were used for the collection. Highlights of the show were a long geometric cut coat with wide stripes as well as the colourful glittering zebra dress with the black tulle underskirt that seemed like the perfect frock for a punk princess.
The make-up of the models looked otherworldy, perhaps like a crossing between an Asian doll with procelain skin and a female clown. However, it made the models' looks all the more intriguing and beautiful with their full red lips and turquoise to yellow eye shadow. Be it the styling or the designs, Vivienne Westwood never conforms to what other designers do. It was no surprise that her ability not to abide by the rules and to go through with unusual ideas produced yet another unique collection.
Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2013-14
The key to Tommy Hilfiger's new Fall/Winter collection was to apply tailored cuts of menswear designs to a womenswear collection. The result is a range of sharp and sophisticated garments, that are wearable every day of the week. It was Hilfiger's goal to bring the 60s and 70s back, but in a modern way.
Tailored shorts and mini skirts serve as bottoms, while jumpers with V-necks and buttoned up blouses are the tops. The patterns of the collection include all kinds of checks – from Prince of Wales plaids to black-white-red houndstooth fabrics. But instead of keeping it simple, the different patterns are combined in each garment. Black and white checks meet deep red plaids, however in a way that it doesn't confuse the eye. The most used colours are dark red, camel, creme, navy and black.
The collection is all about outerwear and layering. Jackets and coats with leather or shearling trims for snowy days are versatile and easily combined with any other piece to be worn beneath. Chic shoulder bags with golden chains as well as high boots finish off the look.
Lacoste Fall/Winter 2013-14
The whole audience was literally in the dark when it came to revealing the new Lacoste collection at New York Fashion Week. Darkness filled the Lincoln Center Theatre just before the show was about to start and the light only crept back in when the wall at the back of the runway slowly started to fold itself apart piece by piece.
The square design of the impressive scenery reflected the clothes' designs. Square patterns and horizontal stripes adorned the structured garments. Almost all of the tops featured extremely wide sleeves that got tighter around the wrists. One of the key fabrics of the collection is the same as that of sweatshirts – cotton piqué. Only here it is used for tops, trousers and dresses, while quality wool makes for cozy turtlenecks and jumpers. See-through raincoats and neon silver lining give a water-repellent protection for rainy days.
The sweatshirt dresses feature knee-length skirts in the style of slightly loose pencil skirts with slits to bare a little more skin. For men classic wide coats and or deep green parkas in a military look are some of the key pieces. Apart from lots of white and grey with graphic prints, the main colours are a bright orange, a range of deep greens and a luscious blue. The finale were a couple of leather dresses with clever zipper details that proved once again the timely and modern spirit of Lacoste in the year of its 80th birthday.
ASVOFF Saint Petersburg
Flowing skirts and dresses with flower applications flying across the screen, girls running through enchanted gardens and dancing in a round on green meadows. Dita Von Teese performing one of her shows in a pair of Louboutins covered in glistening Swarovski crystals. This and much more is fashion film. It's a broad category of film making that deserves its own festival. “A Shaded View on Fashion Film” is taking the stage in St. Petersburg the 16th and 17th February. Presented by Diane Pernet and the Aurora Fashion week it revolves around moving image making in the fashion industry and offers interesting screening as well as inspiring talks.
Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2013-14
Rebellious black bomber jackets and oversized coats are sported by young looking models with slim physiques and a whiff of coolness lingers in the air around them. Leather sleeves contrast dapper quilted fabrics. Once again Belgian designer Tim Coppens proved how excellent he is at designing versatile outerwear by presenting his Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection at the New York Fashion Week.
But that's not all there is to the collection. Smart white shirts with zipped up pockets and button-down collars or black turtlenecks of fine wool look fine on their own but are just as well combined with any other piece of clothing.
The black and white theme is continued throughout the whole collection with some grey and red accents. Black and white unite in a playful pattern that looks like someone took a spray paint can to white clothes and sprayed them with black paint at will. Tim Coppens creates garments that are true to a boyish spirit, but never stop to look grown-up as well. All in all it is definitely a collection men of all ages will be looking forward to for Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013-14 Preview
While it’s not even summer yet, Alexander McQueen is already realeasing a much sought after preview of their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Once again Sarah Burton has created a gorgeous collection, which will surely be a highlight of next winter’s fashion shows.
No matter if the look is elegant or playful, the cuts of the stunning floor length dresses or short dresses with skater skirts are to rave about. Crochet details, golden embellishments around necklines and delicate frills are only the cherry on top. As outerwear long white coats with furry details around the neck and sleeves as well as black leather coats with laser cut outs keep the wearer warm on snowy days. Apart from black, grey and white, frequently used colours of the collection are luscious reds and blues.
They contrast the pale skin of the model, who looks as fair as Snow White from a fairy tale book. It’s as if the whole collection is telling a story. Puffy white sleeves remind of tops worn during the reign of King Herny and his numerous wives. Others garments however remind of religious and priestly robes. The black leather boots can be seen in either an ankle or overknee version with white pleats peaking out. They remind a lot of musketeer boots with a broad strap and a great golden buckle. But even if some of the garments look otherworldly it never overshadows how beautiful they are.
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2013
2013 is the fourth year the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is being awarded. This year’s winner is British shoe designer Nicholas “Nick” Kirkwood, featured in ZOO Magazine #21 for his unconventional footwear designs. Five different designers were shortlisted, but Nick Kirkwood was chosen by the jury to receive the fund doted 200,000 pounds.
The professional business plan he had drawn up with his business partner Christopher Suarez vowed the judges and of course also Kirkwood’s unique designs and ability to create a modern line of accessories.
The prize includes a mentoring programme developed by the BFC to help Kirkwood to make the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand. Kirkwood is graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins design school and his first collection was launched in Spring 2005.
Carhartt Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Urban cityscapes and tall industrial buildings in the architectural style from 1960 til 1990 remind of Detroit, but are in fact from the Italian city Bari. Amongst Calabria and Naples it’s one of the three cities where the new ad campaign by Carhartt Work In Progress was shot.
The short film entitled A Golden Light Underneath My Car is by Alexander Basile, who already worked with Carhartt WIP in previous seasons. The new Spring/Summer 2013 collection is placed in the context of young people spending a laid-back afternoon in the otherwise so stressful life of urban cities. Friendship is seen as the only anchor in the fast paced environment we live in.
G-Star RAW Fall/Winter 2013-14
Acoustic guitar sounds and a blue backlight fill the dark room when a ballerina enters with tiny steps on pointe shoes. After performing some steps of the Dying Swan solo, she throws away her belted coat revealing a tight bodysuit and trying to break conventions. One sentence is glaring from the screen behind her: The Art of Raw.
The G-Star Raw Fall/Winter 2013-14 runway show in Berlin integrated various art forms in making it a unique performance. The new icon of G-Star Raw is film star Michael Madsen, ending the show by reading a poem with his raspy voice and roaring into the microphone.
A huge variety of outerwear is presented by the models: quilted coats, hooded capes, belted and double breasted jackets. Denim is used in a lot of varied ways – for example as the lining of a jacket. Camouflage patterns, utility shorts, aviator sunglasses and caps as well as badges covering the boys’ jackets give the collection a military feel.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
Sophisticated as ever Jil Sander presented her new menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14. Minimalist designs make the collection what it is and show the Jil Sander man of next season.
Double breasted smart jackets and coats with lines of three round buttons are key pieces of the collection. Another great detail are the deatchable stand-up collars. They add a touch of formality wherever they are attached, from thick wool chechered coats to sleeveless black fur tops.
While most garments are kept simple in colour and pattern, the only reoccurring pattern is that of stripes – either regular stripes covering navy suits or diagonal ones accross woolen jumpers. Colours range from traditional colours used in Jil Sander’s collections such as black, grey, dark green and blue to a bright red.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
“The Cosmic Tour” is the title of the Diesel Black Gold menswear F/W 2013-14 collection, which showed in Milan earlier this month. It is taking major inspiration from the psychedelic style of guitar legend Jimi Hendrix and anything to do with interplanetary travel. The models remind of rock gods in eccentric dress and look like they are on a music tour – through the whole universe.
Geometric hexagon prints meet organic paisley patterns and give a clear contrast between structure and softness. From chic to casual, the collection has it all: Shiny chic suits for the night, sporty jackets for the day.
Bright reds, blues and greens are the dominant colours. Unique pieces such as big furry coats and waistcoats reflect the individual looks of the models: They range from long blonde hair over tousled full brown beards to tattoo covered necks like real rock stars.
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
This was the second Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior by Raf Simons. The collection started with references to the New Look Dior himself created in the fifties, but only in a more spontaneous and thus more modern way. This was also a chance for Raf SIMONS to show the house's magnificent techniques by the atelier. Even if the pleats on the dresses looked rather whimsical, it was done with so much care and savoir-faire, Fresh colors were used on lucious silks as they draped fluidly over the models' bodies.
Raf SIMONS chose a garden as the scenery of the collection, a strong notion for the house, considering its love for flowers. Flower motifs and petals were used decorating a couple of dresses. Some parts were rather sensual, with figure-hugging shapes and slits on provocative places. The whole collection can be considered as a meeting of the graphic and the feminine, with sharp suits and color-blocking on the one side and airy dresses on the other.
There was more then one reference to the past in this collection. Sometimes it looked a little bit sixties, sometimes it veered into the fifties.
Rick Owens' angels of the street
Rick Owens returned to the street for his fall/winter 2013-2014 collection after some time spent in the couture-area. The balance he found this season was exceptional, starting with the way the hair of the models was styled. Long-haired boys had frizzed hair creating a romantic image as they passed with red or blond clouds flowing around them. The collection started with an A-line silhouette and big sleeves, making it at some point hard to tell they were soldiers or angels, or maybe both. Last season there was no trouser to be found, with the models only wearing floor-length skirts, but this season the skinny trouser made a comeback, tucked into big and chunky boots. Obviously, graphic forms are a staple in Owens' work, this time created by shrugs tightened around the shoulder and reveresed colars, pointing upward. Two oversized tanktops, one in stiff cotton and the other in black fur, made for exciting silhouettes, reminding of the collections back in the nineties that promised nothing but good to come for menswear.
Climbing Mount Everest with Bally
In Milan the menswear fashion week for fall/winter 2013/14 began and Bally outed a collection ready for the coldest of winters. Fur being the material pur sang for keeping warm, this collection had plenty of it. The first look, a leather parka with a fur collar worn with fur hat, mittens and boots, set the tone. The creative duo behind the brand, Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, took inspiration from the first men who climbed to top of Mount Everest succesfully. One of them, Sherpa Tenzing, was wearing Bally boots at the time. The rugged look of the fur boots and heavy duty outerwear was mixed with heavy knits and sportswear. Colors remained natural with browns, greys, burgundy and touches of yellow.
Mugler Fall/Winter 2017
Natasha Poli storming the catwalk in a blue patent leather blazer with arched shoulders and slim pantsuit. The atmosphere was fierce and as the models powerfully marched in one after the other, the message that creative director David Koma surely had in mind was clear: effortless and daring, Mugler’s woman will not be unnoticed.
Don’t be mistaken: this is a powerful and confident woman who will embrace her body, in all the declinations, with no fear.
David Koma created a collection constellated mainly with evening looks. Vertiginous minidresses with cut-out star details at the bottom hemline or embroidered on the bodice, hourglass silhouettes with pleated lamé in acid green and electric blue, a long white gown with pleated contrast silver lamé. But also power suits with sharp sculptural shoulders in contrasting colours, pants-blazer combo in white, silver, black.
The last look, a dress deconstructing the idea of a smoking suit into an evening gown, said it all: Koma is in search of reinventing the house codes, keeping the identity of this iconic brand strong.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2017
The magic sets of Chanel Ready-to-Wear shows are always expected with anticipation and this season Karl Lagerfeld confirmed once again to be a visionary. A giant 35-meters-high rocket ship was waiting for us at the centre of the Grand Palais, envisioning the recent NASA news of potentially earth-size and consequentially habitable-zone planets.
It does not surprise that the humongous double C rocket was designed to lift off for more than 10 meters in the finale, leaving us completely stunned in smoke and pyrotechnic lights with Elton John’s Rocket Man in the background, Lagerfeld playfully used a whole vocabulary of space references: metallic matelassé stoles in silver and pink as space blankets, knitted headbands lifting the hair into a voluminous round cloud hinting to the space suit helmet, heavenly beaded black evening dresses to match the stardust castellated sky.
The classic Chanel skirt suits is also reinvented with matching shorts and completed with sequined tights and half gloves. It’s a fantasy as out of the best interstellar tale, and we hypnotically want to be part of it. Sparkling signature tweed in metallic silver, white electric blue and Karl’s favourite powder pink, together with the most glittery lunar boots would provide the perfect mise for our final space mission to escape this tired Mother Earth.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have come to a point in fashion when history has been elevated without precedent. There is a lot of the 80s Monsieur Yves we know in the new Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017 there is again a respectful reference to the history but also a lot of the Vaccarello DNA that we have seen in his eponymous label for many years.
That sexiness, that daring and fierce attitude the Italo-Belgian designer infused in his own shows season after season before becoming the new creative director of the historical Maison. And then there is the show vibe. Anthony Vaccarello presented his second collection for Saint Laurent in a surreal, and provoking atmosphere inside the under-construction site of the new brand’s head quarters in rue Bellechasse at the Left Bank of the Seine. The rain pouring down, the scaffolding as backdrop, the loud pulsing music as in any squat party, was the perfect set as to declare a new beginning, the shaping of the new identity of Saint Laurent in fieri.
Bold short dresses in velvet, caramel and black leather matched with long up-to-the-neck gloves as to create a tromp l’oeil effect for maxi shoulders. Thigh-high boots in patent leather and rhinestones with ruches - sure to become the obsession of next season. But also strong day looks with an invasive sense of masculinity: denim with mohair sweaters, shearling jackets, or a simple tee. It’s that subversive soul that Yves Saint Laurent himself was known for. It’s that unexpected atmosphere that everyone is waiting with anticipation at this fashion house. As his predecessor, Vaccarello will make everyone want to wear his clothes. With no exceptions.
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Make Love Not Walls
Through photographic material and a series of global actions, Diesels breaks down all barriers in communication with its #makelovenotwalls movement and tears down the mental and physical walls that separate us. In a time where hate, walls and fear seem to prevail, the brand urges us all to unite for the greater good.
“At Diesel we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the worlds to know that. Love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve” explains Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
For this campaign, Formichetti collaborates with legendary artist and photographer David LaChapelle using the Wall as a symbol of separation and breaking it down to create strong stories through a simple yet powerful narrative: walls are built and the heart-shaped Diesel love tank tears them down. As a symbol of separation is reinterpreted into a symbol of unison and flowers fills the space, a celebration of freedom and love is born. Diesel is known for pushing the boundaries creatively.
From its 1995 LaChapelle campaign with two kissing sailors, to this year's anti-wall ads, it encourages us to let fear aside and focus on what brings us all together rather than what divides us. If You've got walls, Diesel's got wrecking balls!
Woolrich Re-imagines Men's Outerwear
Woolrich continues its long-standing tradition in conceiving and manufacturing technical outerwear of exceptional quality, a tradition born in the late 70s that has continued to be well-received by avid mountaineers.
The brand is relaunching its Mountain Jacket, one of the first examples of technical outerwear that ushered in the expansion of men's outdoor clothing in order to cater to the requirements of outdoor activities such as backpacking, camping and cycling. Designed with functional elements that suit the requirements of such activities, Woolrich's latest edition of the Mountain Jacket strikes the perfect balance between style and function thus also catering to the more aesthetically driven consumer.
A more contemporary style is brought to the fore ensuring maximum freedom of movement, comfort and warmth with its form-fitting cut, adjustable cuffs and ergonomic style. Gore-tex®'s lightest fabric, the Paclite, guarantees the best performance. Despite the air of innovation that characterises the latest jackets, the brand loyally adheres to the design elements of the late 70s that proved so successful in the past.
With a perfectly breathable waterproof Gore-tex® layer beneath the traditional durable and water repellent outer layer, the Mountain Jacket has proved itself to be a perfect companion for adventures in nature.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
Plein Sport Fall/Winter 2017
Sport and fitness are the latest addiction of modern society and that's a fact. It's not all about keeping fit anymore, it's a lifestyle. Designers have also caught the athleisure bug and among them is Phillip Plein who delivered a Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to sportswear during this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On a runway made over to resemble a racetrack, models, boxers and workout fanatics presented the first ever Plein Sport line. The collection features sweatshirts, puffer gilets and bombers, among many other fitness apparel favourites, fusing cutting-edge technology with luxurious materials.
Innovation is Philipp Plein's mantra and a key word for his collection that also offered sleeve pockets for iPhones and pioneered lightweight footwear and anti-sweat fabrics.
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017
Thousands of little flags suspended from the Grand Palais ceiling, as one of those summer festivals when the night breeze brush them gently. The coloured lights illuminating the room mimicking the stage reflectors of any hard rock concert we have attended in our teens.
When the Depeche Mode lyrics started to play and the lights went up revealing the cardboard boxes and “HARDIOR” packing tape paving the regal space, it all came together.
Kris Van Assche channelled his childhood memories in 90s Antwerp clubs, the music, the parties, creating an electrifying collection that explored not only the new course of Dior Homme after 10 years at its reigns but also the possible declination of modern tailoring.
Van Assche designed the suit for the young man, a dialogue between the cool boy party animal and formal clothing. Close fit blazer revealing baste stitching matched with relaxed loose high waist trousers worn with trainers and white socks. Winking to street-wear.
A sweater with the clustered image of monsieur Christian Dior himself - whose birthday was surprisingly the day of the show - and the sentence written right below “They should just let us rave” turned quickly the attention to a more rebellious side of Van Assche: the gothic sweeping floor length capes and teddy bear chain trousers, the hand painted short fur bomber jackets, the aquamarine jumpers and the orange pony double breasted trench coat.
The Belgian designer picked the candy boys, the gabba, the new wave and the mosch pits at raves as his references. The latter, illustrated by the hand of American artist Dan Witz and printed in few closing looks - like the intricate reverse sequins suit - gave a poignant accent to the whole collection.
Dior Homme is beautifully evolving into a strong luxury fashion brand and as the light goes down we can’t help but be excited, like the post feeling of any great concert.
PORTS 1961 LOVERS ARMY
PORTS 1961 Fall/Winter 2017 collection is all about love and its universal meaning. A collection that is minimalist and gives off a younger appeal than past seasons, will definitely warm your wardrobe and your heart.
The Ports 1961 man is ready to face whatever the day has in store. From protective sports clothing inspired by urban workwear to construction suits. Materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, giving a touch of virility to a pretty chic sportswear collection. In the contrasting palette of black, grey, red and orange, reversible bombers, slit sleeves’ coats, studded blousons and piped trousers are just a bite of this collection that sees heart and love all over it.
Details are what bring this collection its tempo – camouflage prints adored by Milan Vukmirovic are reworked and the quintessential white shirt is embellished with a blood red embroidered heart.
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 6”: between French theatricality and aesthetics
Paris with its romantic promenades sur la Seine it’s the star of “Series 6”, the new Spring/Summer 2017 advertising campaign by Louis Vuitton.
Like a flâneur, Bruce Weber, captured the allure of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite heroines bringing back to life the atmosphere of artistic enthusiasm that typify the city of lights. Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Adèle Exarchpoulos and Sasha Lane become the modern inspirations for a reimagined Paris. The result portrays powerful silhouettes that comprise a collection of strongly cultural referred Parisian moments. The season’s handbags, the long jersey dresses and the tailored suit become characters in their own right, the perfect companions for these pictorial personalities.
“It is to this cultivated, intellectual, original and free-spirited Parisienne that I wanted to pay tribute” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative epicenter of nowadays French elegance.
The Givenchy Tribe
Givenchy's latest campaign has just been released and the abundance of the brand's signature codes do not go unnoticed. Shot by photographers Mert and Marcus and designed as a double page spread, the campaign plays on the concept of duality and features powerful men and women whose intrepid natures manage to withstand space and time.
A well-balanced blend of feminine and masculine elements that remain classic and chic are the focal points of the campaign. Two girls become twins by dressing identically and a boy plays fashion chameleon by rocking a formal and a streetwear look in a Mars-like landscape. Pair the adventurous nature of the above with the tightly cropped portraits of Givenchy's personality gang and you are given the impression that, although they appear different they do in fact to belong to the same style-savvy tribe.
Of course, Givenchy's now iconic Horizon and Cross Body bags could not be left out of the equation. Serving as a mark of recognition for the brand, their presence encapsulates the luxury label's long-standing fame while looking towards a future of duality.
Acne Studios Resort 2017 collection’s film is now out, and it’s all about Hype Fever
Highlighted shades, slow motion pictures and pop vibes merge together to give birth to the new Resort 2017 collections film by Acne Studios.
Inspired by musical counter culture, free and fluid silhouettes mixed and matched with generous draping, patterned knitwear and elongated evening wear. Sneak peeks from the runway are given together with backstage scenes to present a collection that is nothing but common.
Resort 2017 is all about shapes and prints that are achieved through a variety of dyeing techniques from tie-dyeing to oil-dyeing, in order to create a look that is both soft and romantic without ever forgetting a taste of sane hippie-rock attitude.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
Dior Homme presents the Black Carpet collection
Dior Homme launches today its Black Carpet menswear collection: a capsule of evening ready-to-wear pieces designed by the creative mind of Kris Van Assche.
Spring 2017 will see a perfect merge between the designer’s untamed-energetic style and Dior’s traditional codes. The atelier’s meticulous craftsmanship and attention to details will fuse creating rebellious, unexpected pieces from Dior’s signature slim-cut suits.
Prince of Wales or Houndstooth check will be interrupted by paint splashes woven into jacquard, velvet flocking and satin scars to give a complete new taste to fine wool tuxedos and t-shirts.
With innovative and unconventional techniques, Black Carpet, pairs the attitude of the runway with house’s know-how in order to push classical precision in to more extreme interpretations.
Hype moment: Supreme X The North Face
Supreme confirms its status as a hugely popular street wear apparel brand with the drop of Supreme's ever popular collaboration: Supreme x The North Face.
For the past ten years Supreme has been dubbed as 'the most hyped street wear pieces of all time' – and rightly so as the latest collection was sold out online in just under ten seconds.
Everything is about leafy camo, hi-vis orange, technically proficient and high performance pieces that create a balanced mix between style, quality and authenticity. The collection is made of cozy essentials for fall obtained by bold re-workings of TNF iconic garments in the perfect countercultural sprit of Supreme.
Representing the embodiment of the downtown culture, Supreme's rebellious New York skaters have a bomb in their hands that has definitely set off. Chapeau!
Acne Studios now open in NYC
The corner of Madison Avenue and East 74th street, New York city – the Big Apple's iconic block has just been injected with a fresh and futuristic allure.
The novelty comes from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios, known for its well-designed signature pieces, that has just opened its latest flagship in the city that never sleeps.
Here, design meets fashion through the use of gold as Acne's signature tone along with interiors fully decorated with gilded metal walls and aluminum fittings. Colors and lights in fresh combinations make for a stand-out yet recognizable look. Black asphalt floors dotted with glittered stones meet crafted bronze desks under a full lighting ceiling that brighten up the entire space.
Acne Studios founder Jonny Johansson was attracted by the city's multicultural identity which he believes to be the future but was eager to retain the city's essence in the store's design. “I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.”
Aitor Throup appointed Executive Creative Director for G-Star Raw
Following three successful years as creative consultant to the brand, G-Star Raw announces Aitor Throup as its Executive Creative Director. Since 2013 the Argentinian-born British designer has worked closely with the brand developing new approaches to 3D denim design and was also involved in the development and concept of the denim superstar's flagship store in London's Oxford Street. Throup directed the recent 'What is RAW?' global advertising campaign and launched RAW Research, his first collection for G-Star during Paris Men's Fashion Week. The transition from consultant to Creative Director was an organic one for both the brand and artist who shares G-Star Raw's design ethos that holds innovation as one of its core values.
CHANEL Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
For Chanel Spring Summer 2017 Karl Lagerfeld delivered a youthful collection. The models sported a baseball hat with side ponytails and candy glowing make up. A bad-ass attitude versus romantic echoes. Girlish yet elaborate with its high-tech masterful fabrics.
The show at Grand Palais was set again in a grandiose installation, this time emulating a data centre – one of those places where you would imagine Mr.Robot emerging.
Along the exposed wires on server racks, floating dresses with a kaleidoscope of colours, mini skirts, white plissé silk garments with ruffles, all adorned with crystal jewellery and pixelated handbags. Although we feel continuously overwhelmed by the everyday technology and data flow, Karl Lagerfeld’s cyberspace is a bright utopia. Robot headpieces included.
Woolrich opens flagship store in Antwerp
Woolrich has opened its first Belgian store in Antwerp, the centre of design and fashion. This marks the beginning of the expansion of Woolrich across Europe, with 75 new stores opening over the next three years. The Woolrich store in Antwerp is located on the Schuttershofstraat, a new home for luxury brands. Its interior blends contemporary furnishing with classical Belgian traits, lending inspiration from creative director Masamichi Katayama, but sticking to Belgian heritage. The Creative Director Andrea Canè says: ”Woolrich has grown exponentially in Belgium in the few last years. The opening of a flagship store in this particular moment in time makes communication with our customer not only simpler but also direct and allows us to bring the world of Woolrich to Belgium.”
Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
With this last fashion week ruled by new creative directors stepping in at the helm of historical French fashion houses, it goes without saying that the debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior — after almost a decade at the rein of Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli — would have been waited with extreme anticipation.
The new Dior woman for Spring Summer 2017 is not afraid of showing her weaknesses, her romantic side - and why not — her unpredictable mood. Ruled by the moon. “La lune” (the moon) on a chunky grey wool sweater and the other tarots cards engraved on squared evening clutches, or intrinsically embroidered on evening gowns. They are all symbols of this new Dior, but also homage to the superstitious Christian Dior himself. The French master was obsessed with astrology and other myths of the occult, and certainly this collection wanted to be inspired by his legacy more in spirit than in form.
We saw that vocabulary that was once the signature of Chiuri and Piccioli for Valentino: transparency made of dreamlike sheer tulle in powder ivory, white, black, and a deep red, together with polka dots and precisely constructed bustiers. Underneath, the minimalist ironic men-like underwear marked with “Christian Dior, j’aDior” motto at the elastic waistband. It’s Maria Grazia’s Dior and no one else’s.
The slogan “We should all be feminists” on a t-shirt sounded more of a provocation than an admonition. This is not a woman who in the process of advocating gender equality renounce to womanhood in order to be a surrogate resemblance of her male counterpart – on the contrary she is embracing her femininity where feminism is the vehicle for empowering and liberation.
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When you pair a fashion house that has been the symbol of breaking the rules of conventional fashion and an irreverent genius mind, the result is just powerful. Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 collection designed by John Galliano is certainly the proof that the one between the English designer and the French fashion house is a match made in heaven.
Galliano produced a collection of contrasts, un-matching references, and a rebellious spirit that only few designers like Galliano can pull off these days. Just like Martin Margiela did in his glorious years.
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 is a spectacular parade of superheroes out of a futuristic manga. A skirt adorned with broken CDs to create flower-like appliqués matched with a Scottish check blazer, a wet suit pulled down to form a dress, trench coats turned inside out where the lining forms a dress but that can be magically worn back as coat. Lace matched with see trough plastic lining, ruffled corsets and puffy Victorian sleeves.
The head pieces often like modern wet caps matched with hearings like a sort of Star Trek’s Spock brought a further look into Galliano’s game of double, of ambiguous, and surely of the intricate creative process that this incredible designer went through to reinterpret Maison Margiela’s identity. That’s just what we were all waiting for. Bravo John.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Delicate, intimate and certainly emotional. For his Spring Summer 17 collection Yohji Yamamoto staged a tale narrating the story of a lifetime spent creating pure poetry of deconstructed fashion and undisputed tailoring mastermind. Assisting at a show of Yohji means assisting the living maestro who shaped fashion history itself. But also the genius production of a designer who is not bending to the crude connotations of fashion system. Last Friday night, while an unexpected rain was briefly pouring in the streets of Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection full of beautifully draped silhouettes softly floating around the body of the models. But also deconstructed jacket and coats, sometimes just worn over one shoulder or as bustier hold by strategic straps, almost as connotation of the urge to shift from the conventional, the urge to create in its pure terms. All in black and white with a slash of red. The brush strokes placed gracefully on the garments were recalled by the same motif on the face of the models created by master make up artist Pat McGrath. Like the violent gesture of a painter in the moment of inspiration. The beautiful knitwear bandaging the body as assertion to some sort of laceration. As the model walked in, many in the audience felt that suspension, that poetic silent shout to life.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The ecstatic, almost suffocating, atmosphere of pure beauty. Dries Van Noten once again staged a show of intricate play of contrasts. Fragments of beautiful Japanese flowers prints collages almost like randomly splashed on white and neutral coloured garments were followed by Victorian-like beaded collars and mourning veils. A bright warm yellow together with deep black. As the models started to walk in, silently, with just the click clack of their heels in the background, the magic of daring, like only the Belgian designer can undoubtedly master, gradually unveiled: there were clean and raw linen looks followed by their counterparts in beautiful printed silk. Sporty shorts and tee in white matched with a black patents leather long coat. A long denim skirt paired with a bomber jacket in the most opulent silk. Embroidered black tulle together with a caramel sweatshirt.
Dries Van Noten created a collection were a complex sense of time and place played along with a fragile beauty. The fragility of fresh flowers that artist Makoto Azuma arranged in 23 beautiful ikebana sets, merged for 2 weeks in subzero water just before the show and forming beautiful ice sculptures that adorned the catwalk. As the show arrived to an end and the glittery ice blocks started to melt forming random water patches on the floor, we couldn’t be other than overwhelmed by the mesmerising sense of such a dramatic message: all beautiful things come to an end. But not certainly the magic of Dries Van Noten.
The Kurfürstendam in Berlin has welcomed the opening of the latest Ermenegildo Zegna store Inspired by architect Peter Marino’s creative vision for Zegna’s international stores, the brand’s in-house architects developed and created the new boutique. Its interior resembles a fuse of soft and structure, as its colour palette includes rosewood, mahogany as well as gun and bronze metal. Exclusively available in the Berlin store is the Su Misura service, offering the consumer the opportunity to select their preferred style, fabric and accessories.
Burberry Preview Straight-To-Consumer Collection Campaign
Shot by Mario Testino, Burberry reveals a preview of the latest advertising campaign, which will launch after the Burberry show at London Fashion Week on 19th September and will run until February 2017. The collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, contrasting with masculine and feminine styles, will be the brands first straight-to-consumer collection. Burberry Chief Creative and CEO Christopher Bailey says: “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves.” The campaign featuring British models Jean Campbell, Alex Dragulele and Swim Deep bass guitarist Cavan McCarthy is shot at the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool, a historic scenery for the upcoming collection.
Kobe Bryant at Nike Amsterdam Headquarters
“Mamba is back”, Mr Bryant says as he walks up on stage at the Nike Headquarters in Amsterdam. The recently retired NBA-player performed his last game on April 13th at the Staples Centre and ended his basketball career with an amazing 60 points, which he said was to bring excitement to the game and make people, including himself, forget it was his last. At a young age, he decided to start playing for the NBA, as he wanted to learn from the best, and it worked out brilliantly. Only 19 years old, he played against basketball legend Michael Jordan.
Being opposite Jordan didn’t scare him, but made him realize how good he had to practice to get to his level. During the half-hour Q&A Bryant talks more about growing up in Italy, coach Phil Jackson being the person he learned the most from and of course his on-going collaboration with Nike. As Bryant is very much involved in the process and design of the shoes, he will continue to innovate, find new and better materials, which should result in the best performance for athletes. There won’t be an acting career in the near future, but Kobe Bryant has a desire to inspire millions, by telling his story.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
Karl Lagerfeld has created collages mixing up emoticons, pearls and coloured fabrics for the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 campaign. The impulsive images reflect a modern energy with models adorned in pearls, styled with riding boots and the BOY CHANEL bag. Sophistication is added through its knitwear, embellished with eyelets and badges. The brands classic attitude collides with a new, vibrant creative direction. On this decision Lagerfeld told WWD; “I was tired of girl holding a bag. – I wanted to do something else that we have never done before.”
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Marni Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
The multiple facets of the Marni woman is portrayed by five lively characters in the Marni Fall 2016 campaign, shot in an abandoned, ancient mansion by Hellen van Meene. Giovanni Bianco & GB65 have through their art direction accomplished to create a delicate atmosphere in the deserted estate with hints to the surreal. The images, styled in Marni Fall 2016/17 by Lucinda Chambers, shows the collections new translation of romanticism.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2016
“I thought that was a modern idea to make them participate. They should be shown too”, Karl Lagerfeld says about the CHANEL Haute Couture Fall/Winter spectacle, which saw the Grand Palais transformed into an atelier. Decorated with mannequins, sewing machines, threads and toiles, the show pays tribute to the seamstresses, tailors and dressmakers who make the collections happen. The garments have a polished silhouette, with angular shoulders, three quarter length sleeves and wide-cut trousers styled with leather thigh-high boots. CHANEL’s statement tweed jackets draws focus on the waist with pockets placed on the hips. Autumnal shades are balanced out and enhanced with hints of pink, black and white. Closing the show is CHANEL’s bride, who Lagerfeld has envisions in a bustier and trousers formed from lace tulle and satin, coated with pink and white wool.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016/17
Circus, the famous collection for summer 1938 inspired this season’s new show, which almost felt magical. Sharp silhouettes and sparkling details defined the wardrobe for a strong, confident woman with Parisian charisma yet worldly imagination. The Schiaparelli’s jacket is architecturally structured with striking shoulder lining, while keeping its femininity through the fluidity and sheerness of the dresses. This collection stays through to Schiaparelli’s signature style of infusing art into fashion and plays with sensuality through added slits and shorts.
Moncler O Autumn/Winter 2016/17
In collaboration with Off-White’s creative director Virgil Abloh, Moncler announces it’s Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection, called Moncler O. The range of clothing is influenced by fishermen of the Northern seas, made apparent in the collection’s waistcoats animating lifejackets along with long jackets including detachable or fixed hoods and short parkas. This collaboration makes for a unique collection, as there is a blend of street style and technical elements. The mix of materials is therefor unexpected, as we see PVC, nylon and other rubbery fabrics, incorporating prints featuring stormy skies, but also a nostalgic look made in pure wool crêpe. Abloh’s hallmark is in the form of the diagonal stripes present throughout the collection.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
GOETZE SS17 Collection
Boyish youth, styled manhood, and reworked casualwear - GOETZE's SS17 collection conveys all of these sensibilities. The collection adapts the forms and silhouettes taken from athletic apparel, while placing emphasis on the functionality that materials like mesh and poplin bring to the clothing. The tone of the pieces reinforce the light and active nature of the apparel, with palettes of sea blue, sky blue, navy and anthracite that note the light, active touch specified for this collection. Founded by Sissi Goetze following her completion of her studies at Central St. Martins in London in 2011, and shortened to GOETZE in 2016, GOETZE was formed around an ongoing exploration of unique formal and casual sensibilities within essential menswear items. Restraining her output to variations of men's shirts, pants and jackets, each collection considers the creative potential within limitation, utilizing material in a gestural nod towards both functional aesthetics and minimalist design. GOETZE fuses historical precedents of menswear with everyday aspects of contemporary masculinity, taking inspiration from both athletic apparel and casual wear.
Willow Smith for CHANEL Eyewear Fall 2016/17
As actress and singer, Willow Smith is the face of a new generation and has now been chosen as the face of the Fall/winter 2016/17 campaign for CHANEL eyewear. The images and short videos for the campaign are shot by Karl Lagerfeld, with a minimal black and white focus. Dressed with jewels from the Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection, Willow shows her bubbly personality for the new eyewear collection, which features optical designs and sunglasses.
PFW: JULIEN DAVID SPRING 2017
“This season I was inspired by the inertia of waves from sound to ocean and creative waves”, says Julien David on his Spring 2017 Menswear collection, taking its inspiration from comfortable tropic summer days in Japan. The colour palette includes pastel pinks, blue and green silks highlighting the infamous Hokusai print. Trousers and sleeves are printed with texts like ‘Wave Length’ and the layered styling, accessorizing jumpers with belts across at chest height, which gives the collection a grungy feel.
PFW: LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2017
Going back to its blueprint and claiming its identity. In Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2017 collection, they return to the brand’s heritage, drawing inspiration from Africa in rich textiles and prints with a colour palette led in Savannah-bleached tones. We find a dose of London Punk in the garments, in the use of ‘dog-collars’, mohair and transparent rubbers. The collection has the characteristic elegance and expertise we’re used to from Louis Vuitton. Visual artist-duo Jake and Dinos Chapman have for the second time collaborated with Louis Vuitton by creating four animal-like prints, used on the mohair jumpers.
BALLY Men's Spring/Summer & Women's Resort 2017 Collection
Bally presents a sense of nostalgia in the spring/summer and women’s Resort 2017 collection. A retro sense and memories of disco platforms at the gym is what Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs have captured. The juxtaposed reality of the 80s “Teen Wolf” (1985), Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Outsiders” looking to belong in this campaign. An edelweiss flower on a Western shirt and playful archive prints come to life. This is enriched with David Hicks bold colours on Japanese kimonos and leisure suits for everyday. Bally expresses the happy grunge and the MTV generation.
PFW: MAISON MARGIELA SPRING 2017
We enter a world where masculine fragility is not considered a weakness. The Maison Margiela Spring 2017 collection includes variations of the two-piece suit, exposed stitching creating a sleek finish and rounded coat shoulders. Crossings of shirts from contrasting fabrics are blended together, whilst also showing a mixture in colour palette; Sepia tones are shown next to technical shell tops and knits, which awaken an active elegance. The looks are completed with lace-up boots and square-toed loafers. Looking through its own archive, a selection of seven garments are recovered and included from collections between 1999 and 2005.
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016/17
Nonchalant and seductive is the woman in the new Blumarine advertising campaign. She plays with the irony of her nature, effortlessly alternating strength and fragility, romanticism and carnality. Her personality is emphasized by the elegant and modern looks that simultaneously nod to the history of Blumarine.
The new Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign describes a cinematic homecoming with Julia Hafstrom being a confident and eclectic woman shot by Inez & Vinoodh.The soft atmosphere of an atemporal and essential setting is the backdrop for the campaign that interprets the historic codes of the house with a new emphasis while contextualizing them into the present. The depth of the scene and the subtle color palette of the background bestow a vibrant and unexpected liveliness to the clothes.
MFW: MISSONI SPRING 2017
The Missoni Spring 2017 collection is heavily inspired by Guatemala, a trip Angela Missoni remembers going on with her mother when she was just 15 years old. The collection commences with contrasting tribal prints in knits and a vibrant colour palette in suits and shorts. Infused are embroidered shirts, white hats and brown pointy shoes, giving off a western feel. Missoni refers to the collection and her models as the “Gautemalan cowboys”.
MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2017
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2017 collection is the first one since the departure of Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The design team chose camping as its theme and was influenced by artist Jean Arp, as his colourful drawings were seen throughout the show as printed on ties and blouses. The collection is innovative but sensible, with suits that are contemporary yet classic. The camping theme came through with the use of stylized backpacks, but also hinted at through the use of some earthy colours.
MFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad retreats to the root of denim for Spring 2017. Melbostad was influenced by late American photographer Irving Penn's images collected in his “Small Trades” book, which showed a diverse range of working class people. As Diesel Black Gold established aesthetic is utilitarian and functional, you can understand the connection. Denim pants are styled with a variety of shirts, including a new kimono style. Proposing a sophisticated sporty touch, nylon is used in the collection in jackets and trousers. The look is complete with utility sandals and canvas sneakers.
MFW: GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
Giorgio Armani’s Spring/ Summer 2017 embraces change and crosses borders, but remains true to the brands philosophy as it evolves into a mysterious yet urban collection. Garments are designed with a mix of geometric patterns and graphic elements, which somehow give of a Caribbean finish. The fit is loose, trousers oversized but it has a clean-cut undertone, perhaps through the colour choices. Its colour palette is romantic, orange tinted reds styled with an array of warm greys and light blues.
Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign
Eddie Redmayne takes centre stage in the new Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign. Redmayne, who is one of the of contemporary cinema’s most celebrated actors, is no stranger to immersing himself in historically significant characters. In the new menswear Prada campaign is presented the idea of the present moment itself being as a theatre of history. This idea is performed in a suite of striking portrait allusions. Redmayne, assumes a number of roles - hero, villain, revolutionary - either against a neutral grey background, or a rich red split by a romanticist view of idealized nature. Craig McDean’s pictures invoke 19th century neo-classical paintings, which famously played with surface and depth, illusion and reality. These photographs continue the spirit of the Prada Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear show, which presented an excursus through times past as a reflection on time present. Overall, the result is a contemporary masculinity that aligns worldly travel with intrepid self-knowledge and oblique, original thinking.
Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Available Now
Acne Studios’ Pre-Fall 2016 is available now. Satin slip dresses, plaids in contrasting colours and textures as well as the reaction of fire created in a print of torn paper makes for a vibrant and electric collection. The collection varies from camel pinstripe trousers to orange denim jackets, which gives the opportunity to explore trends and infuse new key pieces to your existing wardrobe. “I’m interested in how groups of kids mirror each other's look and wear certain items for a sense of belonging. When we put these looks together, I wanted to explore that short period where there's that tension between individuality and the group dynamic”, says Creative Director Jonny Johansson, the brands Creative Director.
LC:M Lou Dalton
White socks and sandals. The ultimate fashion faux pass made acceptable during Lou Dalton’s show at London Collections: Men. Dalton found inspiration from her personal life for this collection, as she revealed she was influenced by the walks her brother and she used to have up the Yorkshire Moors when she was young. This collection includes nylons jackets and airy cottons, suitable for said walks. A couple of models wear a back-to-front bag on their chests, which is also handy whilst on a hike. The colour story is also appealing, going from dark navy and blacks to rich reds, yellows and stripes. It’s a practical collection, but beautiful none the less. Dalton collaborated with knitwear company John Smedley with a line of jumpers, featured in the line-up, immediately available after the show.
MAN, the support scheme for emerging menswear designers, launched by non-profit initiative Fashion East and sponsored by TOPMAN, gave platform to three new designers this LCM season. First up is Swedish newcomer, Per Götesson, who showed his graduate collection at the Royal College of Art just the day before. Models are dressed in a functional and casual collection, primarily oversized denim jeans, accessorized with metal key-chains.
Second up in line is Feng Chen Wang. The collection has elements of the sporty trend coming through, with details like the string cord and the use of technical nylons. When speaking to Dazed about her inspiration for her functional, tied and connected collection, she explains to be inspired by how all her friends are connected.
Closing the MAN show is Charles Jeffrey. The runway is covered in roses and flower petals, where models walk down and show off the collection, blending club scene with the Elizabethan era. As founder of LOVERBOY, Jeffrey has gender fluidity as centre point in his establishments. This is present in this collection too, exposing new silhouettes and long, fake nails.
EA7 Emporio Armani For Olympics 2016
The Rio Olympics and Paralympics are only a few months away and it’s just been revealed EA7 Emporio Armani will be the official outfitter of the competing Italian Team. The new advertising campaign has now been launched, shot by Serge Guerand, in the beautiful Canary island Fuerteventura. Models Penny Lane and Pietro Boselli show off the sportswear line in a series of striking images, posing energetic and with their passion for the sport sparking from their eyes. The collection also features accessories and eyewear, which is available for purchase at Emporio Armani stores.
CHANEL Métiers d'Art 2015/16 "Paris à Rome" Campaign
The Parisian elegance is perfectly combined with the Italian glamour in the Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection of the CHANEL House. The new collection is elegant and absolutely feminine, showing the unique savoir-faire of Métiers d'Art, in combination with the creativity of Karl Lagerfeld. The black and white silhouettes are playing with contrasts, combining the mules’ tip with leather or the extravagance of XXL metal jewelry with the simplicity of a knitted pullover. The tights have a masterfully made lace patchwork and the mules are in two colors, black and white; the characteristic colors of CHANEL. Sensual under a coat or leather dress or reluctant with a tweed suit, which is lined with a "filmstrip", these tights bring a flowing silk crepe dress shine or can be simple worn with a warm wool sweater or an organza- made blouse. Karl Lagerfeld works once again with the American actress Kristen Stewart in the advertising campaign. In plush ambience of a Parisian apartment Kristen Stewart embodies with her smoky eyes and red lipstick, a hot-blooded heroine, like an Italian black and white film.
The Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection also shows a new version of 2:55 handbag that is now available in ultra-soft calfskin. It is an elegant understatement variation in this "house icon", with a very Parisian charm of minimalist chic. This is an innovation that continues this wonderful history of luxury in perfect harmony with the Air du Temps.
New Acne Studios store reflects the individuality of Munich
The contemporary Munich today is mixing innovation with tradition and this is reflected to the new Acnes Studios store in Maximilianspllatz, Munich.
The store follows the codes of the new Acne Studios store concept, using signatures such as stainless steel walls and bespoke fittings and furniture to create an individual destination.
The large, light filled location is viewed through a series of windows, the store itself acting as if a window display.
As with each new Acne Studios store, the décor feels as if it has been placed in the location. The original ceiling can be seen through the bespoke LED light fixtures, which run in straight lines to emphasize the breadth of the space. Contrasting textures are key, with both stainless steel walls and concrete reflected in a mirrored corner box that houses the fitting rooms. Bespoke furniture has been created for the store by long term collaborator Max Lamb. A large mirror leaning against a wall and stainless steel rails on wheels contribute to the purposefully improvised feel. This is the fourth Acne Studios store in Germany, following its Potsdamer Straße location in Berlin which opened in October 2015.
Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
Lady Dior: As Seen By...Travels the World
Exhibitions all over the world are beyond captivating, but at some point, those who see one piece interpreted by a range of artists are actually the most fun to attend. There is something intriguing about the speculation what an artist might make of something, along with a refreshing twist given in each art piece. Dior jumped on this train of excitement by hosting their traveling exhibition “Lady Dior: As Seen By”, with its last stop to date made at the Langen Foundation in Düsseldorf. The display sees different artists, from Olympia Scarry to Katharina Sieverding, display their vision of the notorious Lady Dior bag. Glass creations stand next to wall art set in space; some artist focus on the bag handle, some melt the whole piece down. As Seen By initially kicked off in Shanghai in 2011 and has been traveling the world since. Until it moves to the next city, maybe consider what your take on the famous bag would be...we'd already have a list with ideas at the ready.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2016
Even though there were eclectic patterns, bright colors and even a glossy, red coat in it, the latest Valentino Fall collection is still a soft one. There just was a certain tender vibe to it that let the models shine in a calm light, presenting a collection that lends a hand to those run over by the fast pace of see now-buy now fashion. Even though there were these drop-out pieces, the collection is still defined by pastel tones, earthy and soothing colors and feminine, romantic silhouettes. There are poufy ballet skirts cut up into layers, floating dresses that hug the body like a comforting friend, and big collared coats that are very in line with this season's trend, but also a shield from its hasting characteristics. On its beginning, the collection nevertheless voices some harsh tones, with black looks and loose outlines creating a mysterious atmosphere. Luckily, the calm tone keeps the lead for the rest of the collection. Face it, we all need some down-time from fashion's headspin once in a while. How good to know that Valentino is here for us.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016
When Hedi Slimane let loose his Fall menswear collection about a month ago, nobody knew what he had in store. Going back, we remember glittering cowboy vibes, 70s rockstar inspirations, tight pants and booties, presented in a gloomy setting at Los Angeles' Palladium. Back then, Slimane not only showcased menswear looks, but also “Part 1” of his womenswear collection, which featured similar vibes to the men's designs. Fast forward to now, again, nobody knew what the designer had in store for the womenswear sequel. Revealed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter designs distance themselves from the rocking hobo-vibes of L.A. and transfer the mood to the glittering scene of the 1980s. In an old-fashioned Parisian residence, Slimane presented glam-bam designs that overdo everything just as great as the 80s did. Shoulders are oversized to enormous measures, silhouettes are distorted by big bows creating asymmetry and an overall is reborn in an top-to-bottom sequin look. Additionally: an 80s woman was no catch without a belt, so Slimane adds the big-buckled waist slimmer to his range and matches it with pointy heels. Fashionistas and historians may discover references to the grand Mr. Saint Laurent himself, but it's Slimane's own demand for surprise that puts a frame on this collection. Maybe, next time, the 90s will be the centre of his inspiration. Until then, we'll dance the night away in these bedazzling designs. Are you ready?
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2016/17
The expression of “mix and match” usually recalls bright colors, eccentric patterns and wild fabric combinations. This might well be the case with many brands, but not with John Galliano.
For their latest Fall/Winter collection, the brand applied the “mix and match” theme, but with strict limitation to expression (one thing the Galliano name usually is not known for).
On the runway, viewers saw subtly stunning looks, created from a mixture of femininity and its counterpart, with dresses playing as big as a part as masculine shirts and blazers. It is the thought-out combination of pieces that gives this collection it's identity - it's the Galliano form of mix and match.
This season, Galliano is where the satin dress meets high-top sneakers, where the regalia-embellished jacket is teamed with see-through skirts, where Sporty Spice meets Jane Austen. Regarding the color palette, the search for bold and flashing tones will yield no results. The fabric selection is equally as toned-down and patterns are rather sprinkled than plattered. With John Galliano, it's a mixture - and it matches.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2016
At Paris' École de Medecin, the presentation of Lemaire's Fall/Winter designs had a clean spirit to it. Not, as one may conclude, as in white doctor gowns and sterile objects (due to the choice of location), but clean in a sensual and stylish way, paying tribute to past decades with only so little references. This collection was basically just black-and-cream white, there is no other way of putting it. Once every now and then, a splash of color in a shoulder strap bag or a boxy, grey jacket may interrupt the monochrome, but overall, Christophe Lemaire and his work/life-partner Sarah Linh-Tran stuck to the simple aesthetic. There were button rows that remind of dotted lines in documents, subtle pleats and not-so-subtle puffy sleeves on knitted sweaters (here chimes in the Elizabethan reference). Limitedly messy hairstyles emphasized the nonchalant attitude, while the models' strut down the catwalk still emphasized the core confidence to this collection. For Lemaire, this Fall/Winter 2016 is wrapped, or, to put it medically, operation complete.
Prada Women F/W 2016
On February 25th in Milan, Prada's F/W 2016 womenswear collection had you reminisce immediately. Contrary to other collections, though, one does not think back to past decades or centuries, but just to one month ago, when Prada presented its menswear collection. It seems the leading theme this season that the menswear collections were somewhat a preparation to the womenswear designs. Or, for want of a better word, the womenswear designs are their continuation. However you'd like to put it, Prada's latest designs pick up elements from menswear, such as the unmistakable sailor hats and eclectic pattern mix. Especially the latter is striking, for the list to enumerate all patterns used by Prada would be far too long. Another key element to this collection is the waist-slimming belt that completes almost every look. Recalling medieval designs and lacing, the accessory enforces a hourglass silhouette, a contrast to the mainly loose silhouettes displayed by Miuccia Prada's colleagues this season. It is as if the laced design unites all 52 looks, whether they in themselves recall nautical elements, tribal art or graphic prints (yes, all in one collection). We wouldn't know how to describe it except for “very Prada”. Take a look at the collection, and you'll surely understand. Grazie, Miuccia.
Photos: Monica Feudi.
Emporio Armani F/W 16
Emporio Armani’s latest Fall/Winter collection consists of one thing: consistency. In days where coherent collections are long gone, Giorgio Armani presented a range that sees each item blend with the next like the graphic blocks in a tetris game. In fact, graphics such as the popular video game seem to have been an inspiration for maestro Armani. Triangles, circles, squares, featured in neon and pastel colors printed or sewed on black, remind of 90s tapestries and sticker embellishment. Armani transfers these into high-end ready-to-wear pieces that fit both the office and the dinner gala easily. For the Italian brand, it pays off working piece by piece, square by square, stripe by stripe. The result is next level. Whether at Tetris or at fashion, you decide.
Pictures: Yannis Vlamos.
FENDI Fall/Winter 2016
When Fendi announced that at their F/W 2016 show, two life-size furry FENDIRUMI monsters would greet viewers, little did one know that their fluffy fur would actually transfer itself onto the clothing. The FENDIRUMI are the brand’s iconic bag charms that were introduced in two new versions alongside the collection at Milan Fashion Week. As mentioned, that particular collection also didn’t hold back on fur. The fluffy material is the main player in this season’s designs and used in the making of coats, vests and even handbags. For those who don’t ride on the fuzzy train, Fendi presented exquisitely tailored garments, often tight at the waist in an overall loose silhouette and adorned with ruffles at top or bottom. Next to striped patterns and dark-on-dark looks, baby blue is sprinkled through the collection like colour splatters on a painting. Ruffled boots, bags, yes, even the furry coats were designed in the iridescent colour, making the perfect match to the pink fur coat that was presented at Gucci’s show just one day earlier. The Italian’s know how to do it, and even two life-size monsters can’t distract us from it.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
Rodarte RTW Fall 16
Even though there was no birthday song (at least not on the catwalk) in New York City, it is time to congratulate Rodarte on 10 years of success in the fashion business. The sister duo celebrated their first decade of design with their latest Fall/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week. For Kate and Laura Mulleavy, though, celebration doesn’t come in form of cakes and birthday songs. Their personal birthday cake were the garments presented on the runway. And if there is one theme to be picked, it’s ruffles, ruffles and…ruffles. Applied vertically or horizontal, diagonal, with a straight edge or in shaped waves: the ruffles embody the fantasy element in Rodarte’s designs. Those elements, to be noted, don’t drift away into dreaminess, though. The secret ingredient to this birthday cake is the casual sincerity, the mix-up of fantasy elements and street-ready pieces. For that, all the Mulleavy sister need are their usual rich palette of materials, this season completed by some fur, used in their balanced level of experimentalism and stylish design. Happy Birthday Rodarte, let’s hope your creators get some time to enjoy some actual birthday cake.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
SIKI IM F/W 2016
For their latest F/W collection, label SIKI IM dug deep. Very deep. Deep in thoughts, deep in spirits, deep into philosohpy. Numerous questions lie beneath their latest designs, such as the evaluation of monsters and vampires. Is death the end? According to SIKI IM, it is certainly not. Our fear of being alone, fear of rejection, yes, in the end, the fear of our very selves is also a part of the thought-out inspiration to the IM 2016/17 collection. Naturally, these objections transfer themselves onto the clothing. A color palette of black, oxblood and aubergine draws a very clear allusion to mythic, spiked-teeth creatures. Fabrics from Italy are textured and rich, meaning luxurious cashmere (this season's material No. 1) and pants, woolen car-coats and blazers are combined with architectural leather in a variety of shapes. Furry tops and bottoms are not only monstrous in a good way but also functional for a cold winter. Along with the new designs, SIKI IM also showcases its extension line DEN IM. The prints featured in this collection were inspired by the German art and architecture school Bauhaus and the eponymous post-punk band. Linking both collections, images from Im's favorite Vampire movies were also printed on various garments. In the end, who isn't fascinated by it? The mysterious, the mythical, the dangerous, the tragic? We all have it in us. Just a matter of time until the night will let it out.
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Diesel Black Gold SS16 Ad Campaign
Diesel Black Gold has revealed their new SS16 advertising campaign, a call to he brand’s irreverent and contemporary spirit. French photographer Karim Sadli shot models Lexi Boling and Timur Muharemovic in Downtown Los Angeles, a urban and metropolitan location that fits the collection like a glove. Conceived by Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, the campaign presents key pieces such as the Type 2614 extra-long jeans, a design that through its exaggerated length creates a crushed effect, worn by Muharemovic. Boling meanwhile sports the season’s signature overalls and a leather jacket detailed with metal grommets and whipstitches. With this campaign, Diesel shows once again that it doesn’t take much to impress. If only it would be so easy for everyone.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
ODEUR F/W 16/17
ODEUR’s designers Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger once again showcased a dramatic yet relaxed collection. Exactly just how they pull it off is their trade secret, but for FW 16/17 they have once again struck proverbial gold in black and white. Hints of Yves Klein blue and boxy black an white patterns livened up the epic battle of night and day, good vs. evil. ODEUR’s pieces are inherently Nordic cool; each one ready for an impromptu street style photograph without trying to hard. Crisp, layered shirts paired with cropped bottoms and oversized sweaters sound overwhelming. Here they just work. Men in tunics and dresses? Sounds costume-y, but oh boy does it work. The sporty unisex designs live off of their restraint, and work on both the male and female form, never overpowering the model or being vulgar. For FW16/17 ODEUR once again managed to add to the timeless cool kid uniform.
Philomena Zanetti F/W 16/17
There are a lot of places to escape our busy everyday life. Sunny beaches or abandoned southern islands, for example. Julia Seifert, lead designer of Philomena Zanetti, opted for an alternative. Her latest designs, presented at Berlin Fashion Week, are inspired by the coastal landscapes of Ireland. Naturally, the collection thus fuses shades of grey, green and brown. Soft silhouettes and cocoon-like cuts shield the wearer from the increasing pace of everyday life and suggest comfort by reflecting on the serenity of nature. Now, whenever booking the next weekend escape, you might consider the Green Island instead of a southern one. It could be just as comforting.
Paul Smith F/W 16/17
As a designer, Paul Smith is fond of the past. The days and decades that are long gone are an everlasting inspiration to him, and with each collection, Smith manages to transform the spirit of “back then” into a fashion statement applicable to today. For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Smith once again embraced his past and wove it into new designs. Stripes recur in cashmere knitwear of tailored coats and find their sartorial climax in more-than-elegant lurex pinstripes. Paul Smith, though, never designs without a bit of cheekiness: Dinosaur prints reference his use of digital printing, while lip-shaped fastenings on belts and peace sign charms are a link to the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s. Fun aside, this collection's centerpiece introduces itself in multiple ways: the Epscom coat comes with sheepskin and cashmere and both single and double-breasted. Combined with often flared trousers and heeled leather boots, the “throwback” is complete. Now that we think about it, saying that Paul Smith is just fond of the past might be quite the understatement. He adores it. And we do, too.
Dorothee Schumacher FW 16/17
Schumacher’s FW 16/17 collection is clearly inspired by Stacy Perlata and his Z-Boys and Bones Brigade, the laid-back and most of all free attitude of late subculture. The label has been around for years, rooted in commercial chic and has so far been renowned for business attire. In the latest offering juxtapositions of smart and casual, freedom and roots are painstakingly obvious. For Dorothee Schumacher skater gear element mixed in with romantic florals and classic cuts appear audacious at first. However, dissonance creates interest in the most positive of ways: Bermuda shorts with suspenders paired with delicate blouses, sporty stripes on mixed mille fleur, baggy pants and glitter shirts, stern woolen coats covering romantic dresses carry the Schumacher DNA over to 2016. Folklore-esque garter belts, cutouts and transparency add a youthful layer to the designs. The cherry atop this show was certainly the music by the late David Bowie that set the mood for the show.
Larusmiani F/W 16/17
“The secret of a real man’s style lies in knowing the rules as well as breaking them”. Larusmiani thinks back to founder Gugliemo Miani’s wise words as inspiration for their F/W 16/17 collection. In fact, it is not only inspiration, but key essence to the new Italian designs. Handmade suits are made from fine fabrics such as wool, cashmere and silk – with the twist of occasional blends. Impeccable shirts with embroidered initials are available in cotton flannel and cashmere or printed silk as recognition of the modern and the traditional. Ties with geometric patterns only take a few seconds to be chosen by their wearer. Shoes emphasize the mantra of knowing the rules as well as breaking them: the beaver fur-lined sneaker stands next to the Larusmiani Oxford shoe. Altogether, the collection composes a relaxed Dandy attitude for the Larusmiani man. And to him, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Costume National Homme Fall Collection
The world is under pressure. The fashion world is under pressure. At least according to Ennio Capasa. The lead designer of Costume National took the occurring dangers and threats of our world as an inspiration for his new Fall collection. The result is an assemblage of combat elements, couture bits and both uniform and freedom. With these designs, Capasa also wants to rekindle his connection to music. Quite literally referring to pressure, Capasa found muses in David Bowie and Freddie Mercury and their collaborative hit “Under Pressure”. Now, what does one do to resist? Costume National delivers the perfect gear. Combat multi pocket trousers make for a well-equipped look, squared shoulder jackets and oversize coat create an invincible silhouette and fabrics from faux fur to glitter print show that “fear” is not in store for Costume National. Colors balance between tones from black and navy to shiny greens and neon turquoise. It’s only the brand name that seems unfitting in this collection. This definitely isn’t a costume. It’s an armour.
FENDI F/W Collection 2016
With their latest menswear collection, Fendi went luxurious-but-soft. Or casual-but-elegant. Playful-but-stylish. However you define it, the new collection oozes a feeling of private luxury. The silhouette is soft and comfortable, which helps the wearer glide through the urban frenzy without bumping shoulders. In general, outerwear has found a new, welcoming roominess at Fendi. Knitwear makes us feel like home, with long and loose jumpers keeping warm and droopy scarves draped around the neck. With Fendi, it’s not loneliness but “homeliness” that awaits us: the garments have a relaxed ease; comic strip elements add humor and character. Stolen plaid pieces add a visual rhythm when fused on knitted pieces and felted wool tailoring. Another key element is sheepskin, used in the making of bucket hats and shoppers. It might be “luxurious-but-soft” or “playful-but-stylish”, but actually, with this collection, there are no “buts” needed.
Persian Queen goes Berlin: Lala Berlin at Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week whizzed by in a second, but Leyla Piedayesh was there to capture the moment. With her new “Persian Queen goes Berlin” collection, the designer established the connection of live experiences with online content. At Berlin’s meCollectors room, surrounded by celebrities from the music, fashion and acting scene, Piedayesh presented a special video installation with strong visuals. Director Jonas Lindstroem filmed three characters, embodied by model Lina Berg, 12-year-old Louise Constein and Anna von Rueden. In support of the video, Piedayesh also went to search for inspiration in the realms of upcoming German music. Singer Jasper Munk supported the videos with his sounds and was present for a set of 3 acoustic songs at the event. To make the evening even more interactive, the label invented the InstaShoot, a creation to let fans from allover the world take part in the experience with the help of an exclusive mirror installation titled “Mirror Me”. According to Piedayesh, instagram has revolutionized the fashion world and is an important source of inspiration and creativity to her. 3, 2, 1, smile!
GUCCI’s Poetic Reactivation: Men’s F/W 16
Every time Alessandro Michele takes a step, the fashion world vibrates. His every move is a burst of creativity, a glittering bomb exploding with past, present and future inside. Alessandro Michele is the fashion epitome of Alice in Wonderland’s hat maker, not crazy, but creative, his work always immensely layered but unique in it’s own ways. For GUCCI, he presents one multifaceted collection after the other. With the latest GUCCI menswear designs Michele followed his own path while establishing a new interpretation of time. The collection, titled “Poetic Reactivation”, refers to our system of past and memory as incorrect. Michele wants to explore memory as an interpretative and poetic field, while destroying pieces of the past at the same time. The idea of an inexorably finished past is eradicated, but the collection still is an “assemblage” of fragments from preceding decades and centuries. It’s complex, but so is GUCCI, and so is the collection. You never have enough space to go through it. GUCCI itself describes it as an “excess of sense”. How true, we couldn’t have put it better.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016
Ermenigildo Zegna Couture steps up to its name at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, making a proud statement of cutting-edge couture tailoring with the leading motif of “embellishment”. Now, embellishment doesn’t primarily refer to the clothing, but to the idea behind it. For this collection, Stefano Pilati focused on the current zeitgeist of self-advertising and the need to distinguish. In other words: embellishment. He transfers this into a sophisticated, rather fearless wardrobe defined by the exhibition of patterns. Masculine motifs are fused with the lushness of the fabrics, which emphasizes once again the “couture” attitude. Nevertheless, embellishment DOES also refer to the fabrics. They are adorned with three dimensional hand embroideries, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquard patterns. The result is a collection with elegance, unregulated in its formality, embodying the classic Zegna attitude. Embellished, and established!
New DKNY Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
The new year is only two weeks old, but most of us have probably forgotten about our New Year’s resolutions already. DKNY certainly has not, as it must have been one of their resolutions to introduce the new year with their SS16 advertising campaign. Captured by Lachlan Bailey, in it Adrienne Juliger poses as the embodiment of the new DKNY woman: powerful, nuanced and complex. This year, her actions speak louder than her clothes, which let her be herself in every way, every day. Thus, the clothes are a collection of simple, minimalist designs featuring the key colors black and white. Straight cutting goes along with high-end, clean accessories and gives the DKNY woman the space to bounce through everyday life with strength. The campaign is the first to be released under the lead of new Creative Directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. Along with new designs, the brand also presents a new graphic logo, which is layered in big, bold letters over the pictures. The new year may only be two weeks old, but for DKNY, this resolution can already be crossed off the list.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Paul Smith LC:M 2016 Presentation
It appears as if these days, recollection is more present than the actual reality. A good handful of designers are going back to the roots, whether it’s in time or geographically. Among these is British designer Paul Smith. After having just launched an exclusive T-Shirt collection with the late David Bowie, Smith released his F/W collection in surroundings that were reminiscent of the past. The designs were on display in a recreation of what was Smith’s first shop, opened in 1970, measuring only nine square meters and being open only two days a week. From there, even though he is essentially British, Smith created his own form of what feels like the American dream: becoming a global fashion business. Fast forward to January 2016, visitors had to cram into nine square meters again to catch a glimpse at the new designs. Colorful bags, inspired by Argentine tango and leather goods inspired by a Mayfair façade recap the designer’s roots in a tangible way. The little “shop” marked a fresh contrast to regular runway presentations and surely had not only Smith himself think of the old days. It’s a shame that it was only a recreation – as we’re sure these nine square meters would be quite successful today, too.
Louis Vuitton and Al Dente: "LV & Me"
Louis Vuitton is here to teach us the alphabet again. Only this time, it’s the Louis Vuitton alphabet. For their new jewellery collection, the fashion house teamed up with Paris creative agency Al Dente to create a campaign that explores all the letters – from A to Z, quite literally. Designed by Camille Micheli, “LV & Me” encapsulates bold silver and gold jewellery, focusing on letters to be assembled freely. An interactive digital capsule, supported by a 1970’s song by Amanda Lear, leads the campaign. As she intonates in her unique style nonchalant confessions as “G stands for getting divorced”, Lear takes the viewer through both alphabet and collection. The movie has also been duplicated in 7 videos and can be viewed below and on the Louis Vuitton website. There, jewellery fans can take on their own spelling bee as they create their personalised video featuring Lear’s explanations. Users are encouraged to share their experience across Social Media, where teasers and photos will also be spread. Getting to the final letter, Lear’s voice tells us: “Z is for the zero you will get, if you don’t learn my alphabet.” We’re on it, we are.
Valentino Takes To The Desert
Savanna. Vast landscapes. A sprinkle of trees, some wood branches scattered around. Amidst that: Valentino models. The brand broke out on a journey to the desert in their latest SS16 campaign. Shot by award-winning photographer Steve McCurry, the pictures show models pose arranged statically in the desert breeze, presenting the latest Valentino designs with the straight approach of reality. The images are set to be sincere and depict the exact moment they were taken. McCurry, who is renown for his reportages published in National Geographic, was chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for his exceptional ability to create stories through his images. With this collection, the two also want to stress the fact that fashion carries the ability to express the necessity and creation of new aesthetic and ethical perceptions.. “We strongly believe that garments have the ability to be a vehicle in affirming concepts and that fashion has the task of expressing new demands. That is why we wanted to carry the essence of this collection in the place where the idea was born.” That birthplace is Amboseli Park in Kenya, inhabited by the Masai people, who are also featured in some of the campaign’s shots.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Bottega Veneta: The Art of Collaboration SS16
Bottega Veneta has taken us to quite the special exhibition space in their latest SS16 visuals. Consisting of a short film and photos, the campaign was shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in the sculpture gardens of the Kröller-Müller Museum in The Netherlands. Models Mica Arganaraz and Sven DeVries playfully wander about Jean Dubuffet’s sculpture “Jardin d’émail”, taking in the world around them. The showcased collection features colorful designs in both womens- and menswear. Shiny red tones and detailed prints define the designs for Her, while He stays casual with outdoor- and streetwear inspirations. These inspirations can also be traced in Sassen’s photography. As a photographer, the artist prefers to shoot outside. For this campaign, she focused on contrast, color and texture. As a result, the models turn into performing sculptures, creating instant art in the sculpture garden. Sassen is not the first to shoot a campaign for Bottega’s Art of Collaborations. It was instituted as a creative partnership between the brand’s Creative Director Tomas Maier and renowned artists such as Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. We’ll be excited for the next one.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
Beth Ditto & Jean Paul Gaultier Introduce Fashion Line
Courtesy of Beth Ditto/Jean Paul Gaultier
“I trust you”, Gossip singer Beth Ditto yelled at us in the song “Heavy Cross” a few years back. Now, she has put her trust into the fashion scene. The American chanteuse and French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier have teamed up for the debut of Ditto’s own plus size fashion line. The singer announced the collection on her instagram account, commenting that she was “psyched” to introduce the line with the designer collaboration. Alluding very much to an 80ies-Madonna-style, the first shirt to be released features a print of Gaultier’s iconic corset on the front and back, adorned with actual laces to tie on the backside. With this step into the fashion world, the singer follows her path as a model in runway shows for Gaultier in 2011 and Marc Jacobs this year. It’s safe to say that Beth, we trust you with this, too.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
All for a Good Cause
In support of the rainforest charity, Cool Earth, this winter sees Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler team up with British restaurant Aqua Shard to design and create a magnificent 18-foot Christmas Tree. Decorated with beautiful festive beading that has been crafted by a women’s cooperative in the Awajún community, it will be adorned also with vibrant garlands of “tuju” and “huayruro” seeds to symbolise good fortune and abundance. Emphasizing the significance of protecting the rainforest, the sustainably sourced tree will then be covered in an ethereal cocoon of lace and stand in front of a beautiful London skyline backdrop.
Accompanying this extravagant creation, Aqua Shard will be selling limited edition, uniquely wrapped chocolate made from the cacao gathered by Peru’s Asháninka communities, an extra-special chocolate desert and an exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktail. This is all to raise money for Cool Earth, the charity whose award-winning model is so efficient, that in working with local indigenous communities they now have more rainforest under their protection than any other NGO or government.
To purchase a Vivienne Westwood x Cool Earth chocolate bar, please visit www.aquashardblog.co.uk/viviennewestwood
Public School Pre-Fall 2016
In their international debut, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have taken a break from NYC and flocked to Dubai, courtesy of iconic motor company Cadillac XT5, to show their Pre-Fall Collection. It seems quite fitting then that the designer’s inspiration for this line, which they are presenting in a desert’s built up city, are the disparate themes of technology versus nature. Osborne and Chow’s signature long silhouette of tunics for either gender take on a definite ethnic feeling in these surroundings, heightened by their accompanying kimono inspired jackets and reinterpretations of Japanese Shibori prints. Injecting the urban undertone that these designers have made their name on are layered loose knits and a lot of mesh.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Woolrich Unveil Second Amsterdam Flagship Store
Designed by the renowned Japanese studio Wonderwall under Masamichi Katayama’s direction, a brand new Woolrich flagship comes to Amsterdam central. Located at the freshly renovated PC Hoofstraat, the boutique is at a prime location, surrounded by fellow international luxury fashion labels.
Extending over two floors, the ground includes an impressive Dutch-style skylight whilst the lower features an intimate lounge area. There are furnishings of Made in the USA Buffalo Check wool, images of the Pennsylvanian Woolrich Mills and items from their archives… In referencing the label’s history, this boutique is reflective of the Woolrich philosophy and a smooth blend of heritage and contemporary.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Undoubtedly the wackiest show of the season, Bernhard Willhelm is “celebrating randomness” with a banana themed collection. The motif is imaginatively plastered throughout the line, taking form in prints, cuts, silhouettes…Even in wired headdresses.
In a celebration of sexuality and identity the line is crafted without any regard to gender and is packed with bright tie-dye, jungle-style camouflaged prints and detailed embroidery.
Despite the initial shock factor, when you break down these looks you find they are surprisingly wearable. Deconstructed overalls, statement jackets and low crotch shorts display some clever reworking from Willhelm and prove that there is a method to his madness after all.
Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
A grassy meadow made up the runway of the heavenly romantic Moncler Gamme Rouge show. It was girlish renaissance in white lace florals, A-line skirts and cinched in waists.
Fencing sword accessories reminded of the sports undertone to the label whilst simplistic sneakers and metallic fabrics kept the collection of short silhouettes contemporary and engaging.
Giambattista Vallia has definitely kept his wits about him with this fresh, romantic look that will ultimately excite his Moncler girls.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to shy away from the theatrics. His current season for Chanel was shown in a decked out Grand Palais with the theme of an airport.
Models were jetsetters wearing aviator sunglasses, gloves and mini luggage-case purses, strolling through the airport to catch their flight.
Lagerfeld, who has clearly had enough of joggers and tracksuits in his business class surroundings, created a line of luxury, which he deems more appropriate as in-flight attire. This included leather calf-length A-line skirts worn over matching wide-leg trousers, a number of denim puffed sleeves and fabulous bejeweled bodices. This is Lagerfeld at his finest.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There was a powerful message behind Rick Owen’s Paris show yesterday. What many would simply brandish as another bizarre fashion moment actually had a deep sentiment behind it, regarding the empathy and strength of women. Models twisted into unforgiving contortions were strapped to the torsos of other models, who walked the entire runway bearing such a weight in an Owens reinterpretation of a backpack.
The pieces themselves were beautiful and undertook new looks for the label. Beautifully tailored sleeveless duster jackets were worn over leather and canvas dresses, whilst crinkled raincoats and aviator-style jackets were mixed into the more typical range of Owen’s asymmetrical lines. His choice of footwear, being gladiator sandals or black leather boots, underlined the toughness of femininity and the inspiration behind the collection.
Gucci Opens New Milan Concept Store Celebrating Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
September 21st saw the luxury fashion label open a new concept store in Milan, showcasing the debut of Alessandro Michele with his Fall/Winter 2016 collection for Gucci.
The discreet look of the store welcomes customers to relax inside, perhaps upon on a plush velvet armchair beside a vintage Oriental rug, that contrasts with the harder surrounding features made of iron or marble. In keeping with the theme of their latest eclectic collections, the store draws attention to differences in combining traditional and modern, industrial and romantic.
This new, intimately ‘Gucci” look will be adapted to suit other other stores, respective to their locations.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Presentation at MFW
After debuting in New York Fashion Week, the women’s ready-to-wear Calvin Klein Collection featured in a Milan presentation along with select men’s and women’s Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Swimwear lines.
Francisco Costa presented the contemporary collections on suspended mannequins underneath a video of her women’s Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein Collection on the ceiling whilst accessories were displayed over black platforms. Kevin Carrigan presented the other lines using models posing as skaters in an abandoned pool complete with graffiti in Los Angeles, California.
There was a bit of a retro moment underlining the presentation, with the largely denim ensembles of Calvin Klein Jeans accessorized with snakeskin or suede boots and platform sandals. These vintage-inspired looks showcased denim one-pieces and A-Line skirts that in some cases appeared with a fade-effect or distressed.
Etro Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The classic romantic, Etro this season is packed with more of the label’s signature, intricate prints. Blending folk-style with Victorian-style florals in a beautiful palette, there are ruffles, lace paneling and a matching choker in any given look. Latticed boots appear amongst satin ballet pumps with embroidered paisley bags accessorizing.
With such a keen eye for the details and so much going on in any given look, Veronica Etro has created a world for us to get lost in with each, individual piece.
Costume National Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Inspired by a film noir comes the latest collection from Ennio Capasa. As expected, it entails a largely black pallet, with the incorporation of white and red.
Deconstructed blazers, ruffled skirts and cut out shoulders explore the various shapes Capasa entertains in this collection. Geometric patterns in lace and embroidery, glitter prints and even a metallic ruched dress showcase an anomaly for the designer, and an exploration into “sensuality”.
Never one to follow a trend, you cannot help but wonder whether the business of the shows of his contemporaries this past week in Milan have pushed him to venture out of his comfort zone this season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Vintage-inspired collections with an eccentric, Italian twist seems to have been a running trend this season at Milan. And who could do it better than Miuccia Prada I ask you. Her line is an army of skirt suits and coats brought to life in classic tweeds, checks or vivid striped leather and suede, alongside the occasional appearance of a translucent number.
Perhaps if another designer had done this you couldn’t help but get lost in repetition… But Prada knows how to play it. She showers each look with her signature style of peculiar accessories and whirls up excitement in her humble onlookers. This season, it’s a circle motif – think lace scarves, sequins and glitzy bauble earrings.
This exceptional collection is proving to be the highlight of the week at Milan and so for that, we salute you Prada. Oh, and for those incredible gold lips as well.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
MCQ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Rather than have a catwalk show this year at LFW, the label who pride themselves on supporting new creative talent have chosen to show a presentation of their current collection, through the eyes of three young emerging artists. Lea Colombo, Jack Davison and Sharna Osborne reimagined the line using character studies, detail shots and a sequence of short films.
The collection itself takes inspiration from a Post-Punk “No Wave” New York scene during the late seventies and early eighties. Refuting the mainstream sound at that time, this movement reflected strength and rebellion – perfect for MCQ Alexander McQueen.
The presentation was shown digitally on social channels and mcq.com and was set in Spitalfield’s Christ Church, the building that also provided the location for the legendary Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1996 Dante show.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer Collection 2016 at LFW
Florals, midi skirts and the ruched dresses we know so well, Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again taken the conservative and stamped her bold print all over it. With dramatically smudged make up and face paint, one model carries a book with her down her walk in translucent sliders. Others are in perfectly prim dresses whilst wearing a harness over the top.
With a splash of tartan and the odd carbon-footprint-awareness top, Dame Vivienne Westwood sticks to her guns and creates another classic collection for the Red Label.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Gucci Unveils Surrealistic Window For Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
July 21st marked the opening of the Gucci-designed window for their new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s FW 2015/2016 collection. His first collection and its dreamlike display will be installed in stores worldwide by the end of the month.
An admix of disco’s love for striking neon lights and Salvador Dali’s penchant for the odd and grandiose — the window features purple and turquoise LEDs, creating a distinct 3D perspective, alongside embroidered snakes and giant swallows. This nod to surrealism goes hand in hand with the eclectic collection, being both eye-catching and imaginative.
Antony Morato Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
From the beating heart of New York City arises the urbanite “Places” campaign from Antony Morato. Following the footsteps of world-travelling Italian man, this curious adventurer has arrived in the city of a thousand lights. As any traveller would know, culture is as diverse as the winding paths of the road. And a lot of roads lead to New York. As a cradle of cultural exchange, the city continues to breathe new trends, affected by the thousands of “places” it hides. The FW campaign, shot by photographer Tony Thorimbert uncovers the unexpected metropolis, leaving behind what we assume New York to be and presenting it through its vibrancy, its architecture and its urbanism.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Prada Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Leather shorts, black boots, tailored jackets and casually bold prints dominated the somewhat feminine take on menswear by Miuccia Prada. The collection was imprinted with the playful feeling of boyhood – oversized tops, colorful prints of rocket ships and racing cars and shirts tucked hurriedly into shorts. Boot-cut pants and zipped sweaters beneath printed shirts reflected the vintage 70s vibe that reverberated throughout the Prada showcase.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Menswear
Like the nautical reincarnation of the Victorian gentleman, Sarah Burton’s creative lead steered the McQueen collection towards graphic prints of mythical sea creatures on classic, vintage cuts. Tailored jacquard patterns were intertwined with up-scale pajama-inspired looks. To enhance the look of the nautical was the fresh-out-the-water locks.
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
Louis Vuitton 2016 Cruise Collection
On May 6th, the Cruise 2016 show made the landmark residence of Bob and Dolores Hope its grand stage. Created by revered Modernist architect John Lautner, the steel, concrete and glass windowed architecture seemed built for the show. Armor-like, metallic pieces were intertwined with ethereal, flowing prints, creating an aesthetic that could be described as futuristic boho-chic. Structured, practical boots were favoured over the heel, adding to the utilitarian feel.
The LV Cruise show caused quite the ruckus, not merely for its runway mastery, but its presence on social media. For the public and those not in attendance, the fashion house shared runway, backstage and after party moments with their Live Louis Vuitton Snapchat feature.
Nicholas Ghesquiere’s showcase was, however, so much more than a display of a stunning collection, it was a momentary glimpse of an alternate, Ghesquiere-curated life. The desolate yet beautiful surroundings of the Palm Springs location afforded to the showcase an outlandish, near alien atmosphere, and the clothing were equally as elevated.
To see the full show, go to
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
Calvin Klein Jeans #mycalvins Denim Series
Calvin Klein Jeans brings us a new denim collection inspired by urban streetwear. The collection exists out of logo-driven garments that are comfortable and iconic. For the advertising campaign, the brand has asked fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan to shoot Kendall Jenner and model Simon Nessman in a way that is fresh and typically Calvin Klein.
The line will be sold exclusively at Calvin Klein boutiques and on the brand’s website.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Valentino’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was just as perfect as any of the previous ones. The cuts are brilliant, the details magnificent and fabrics are by far the best they can get their hands on.
Since their takeover, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have lifted Valentino to new heights. Every show has been a spectacle in its own way, but none of them could compare to the closing looks we saw this time. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walked on stage in the roles of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, characters from the film Zoolander that came out in 2001. They were wearing Chiuri and Piccoili’s signature suits for Valentino, and had all eyes on them.
Commercially, Chiuri and Piccoili have been brilliant from the beginning on, but this stunt just proved their never ending creativity and their feel for what people want. Or maybe even need.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang has understood the essence of Balenciaga from the beginning on. Seeing his development with the brand is not only satisfying, but makes us want to get out of our chairs and give him a standing ovation.
The way the clothing is constructed refers to the work of Christóbal Balenciaga; showing a new way of looking at tailoring. Wang manages to embrace the shapes of the female body and work with that, rather than simply creating clothes and putting them on.
Tweed and wool dominated the show for next season, making sure that the collection is more of a classic one. Just like Christóbal himself, Wang is making garments that will last a lifetime. Or maybe even longer.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
While John Galliano himself was focusing on a different house, his right hand, Bill Gaytten, took care of the latest collection. The result definitely did not scream Galliano’s drama as before, but it definitely showed the core of the brand. Extremely elegant femininity could be found in every look, together with craftsmanship and detail. The collection told a beautiful story of subtlety and beauty, something that Gaytten has done well.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Albert Kriemler knows his clientele well. During his latest show for Akris, he presented a collection that consisted out of highly wearable garments, which were simple, elegant and well made. The overall collection was modest, where warm tones of white dominated most looks.
For next season, Kriemler experimented with textures on fabrics that managed to lift up the sober collection. For some of the looks, this meant that the fabrics seemed to be made out of reptile-like skin. The large use of grey and soft materials like jersey, gave the collection a feel of comfort, without being too lazy.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest Trussardi show, Gaia Trussardi portrayed a classic Femme Fatale. She chose an ultra feminine silhouette and combined this with highly luxurious materials. By using natural colors, she made sure that every look in the collection is very wearable, pointing at what is probably going to be a commercial success.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
When it comes to sumptuous ornamentation, you can always trust Dries van Noten to come up trumps. FW15 may well have opened with the utilitarian, but that soon succumbed to the not-so-cheap thrill of paisley brocade and silk jacquard.
Sand combat pants puddled around the calf – their drainpipe cousins peeping beneath as a matching underlay. Navy pea coats in felted wool paraded their buttons just off-centre, necks syphoned by funnel collars and chests ruled with black grosgrain bands. Mandarin coats almost bypassed as duffels in their heavy yarns, finished off with industrial steel toggles and high-vis white stripes.
Eiderdown quilting doubled as jogging pants, cuffed curtly at the ankle and finished with an un-socked leather loafer. Kilts curtained cigarette pants – a folkish citation rendered esoteric with the addition of a button flap pocket, replete with ornate woven trim. Silk shirts bore floral prints in indigo and moss green, unbuttoned to the lower chest and left to slink off shoulders. Tees, though obeying to basic form, were beguilingly baroque, tiled in hypnotic oriental prints. Scarcely was a surface safe from a stout steeping in history – but then you could expect nothing less from a chronicler like Dries.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
So mysterious, so dandy. Giorgio Armani, a fashion figure like no other, delivers one quality offering after another. While his secret to everlasting greatness remains unknown, one can’t be blamed for at least trying to decode Mr. Armani’s work, be it women’s or menswear. In fact, the Emporio Armani FW15 men’s collection was all about decoding, deception and espionage, minus the blood and fantastical action scenes.
An army of smouldering spies stepped out on the catwalk decked-out in playfully thought-through ensembles that would make even Bond proud. And there was so much goodness to choose from: perfect knits, elevated by asymmetrically-placed zippers, cropped cocoon coats, ribbed ultra-luxe sweats worn with mischievous bombers or pressed leather jackets, cosy fur snoods... With that in mind, it wasn’t the impeccable craftsmanship that left a lasting impression, but instead the sometimes under-appreciated versatility that permeates all of the beloved designer’s work. All in all, it’s mission accomplished.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
La Perla Re-Opens Historic Boutique in Paris
La Perla has re-opened its historic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris. Designed by renowned architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store's interior was inspired by the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona, Italy. Soft, dusty colours pervade the 230 square metre space. Rich gold detailing accentuates the boutique's luxurious atmosphere.
The La Perla pieces are entrapped in delicate glass cases or displayed on velvet-clad trays. On the first floor, customers are welcomed into the VIP zone, where 'Made-to-Measure' collections are available. The area also leads to the boutique's most beautiful spot – the winter garden – where an array of show stopping pieces are presented on pedestals.
To commemorate the re-opening of the store, a celebratory event took place on 27 November, 2014. The launch party was attended by French actress Mélanie Laurent, dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, as well as Tony Thornburg and Richard Biedul, models from the La Perla men's catwalk.
Diesel opens Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn
photo: Nicholas Ong
Lifestyle brand Diesel have opened up their first Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn named 101.
Formulated to exhibit Nicola Formichetti's first Diesel collection and showcase the brands new direction, the shop will adhere to Brooklyn's lively and exciting atmosphere. The 1000 square foot store partly designed by architect Mark Gage consists of men's and womenswear, accessories and children's wear as well as limited edition merchandise specifically designed for the Pop Up.
Displaying a slightly sinister, refractive and prismatic concept, the store fuses retail, media and art to offer a stimulating and unique shopping experience. Walls are mirrored enabling them to reflect digital image screens placed within the ceiling and projecting colorful facets of imagery and social media around the surroundings. The decor also comprises of orchid lined walls and vintage pornography.
Speaking on the Pop Up Formichetti states "The 101 Pop Up is a new type of store – personal, special, a project space. Brooklyn represents modern day culture and fits perfectly with Diesel DNA and where we are heading."The store opened on 15th August and will remain open until December 2014.
Hermès Zebra Pegasus
Exquisite and decorative, the Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf collection is inspired by the fantastical myth of Pegasus and the beauty of the African zebra.
Incorporating delicate patterning with a bold color palette, the collection oozes artistic creativity and distinct prints while remaining elegant and feminine.
Designed by Central Saint Martins College of Art graduate Alice Shirley, the scarfs depict the reinvention of the legend of Pegasus and combine natural and historical influences with contemporary fashion to create something uniquely beautiful.
ODEUR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For Berlin Fashion Week’s closing day, design duo Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger send their SS15 collection ZENITH down the runway. The designs are quintessential Scandinavian in their minimalism, yet daring and defiant in their attitude. ODEUR’s black and white creations are uniforms for informed urbanites, ready to challenge the status quo. Bold futuristic silhouettes challenge conventional fashion motif: boxy shirts over slim pants, wide pleated shorts under bomber jackets, classic blazers or boxy jackets. The SS15 collection is purist, clean and sophisticated, with a cool and relaxed attitude. The monochrome color scheme underlines the sharpness and ambivalence of ZENITH and the cosmopolitan vigilante ODEUR wants us to become next summer.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
French-German design duo Augustin Teboul is hitting all the right notes these days. And because some recognition never hurt anybody, they were presented with the international Woolmark award recently. In the wake of this success, they stepped out with their most recent collection “SHINY VOID“ during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This showcase aimed at portraying the inseparability of opposites, as could be seen in the mix of rough and fragile pieces. Overall, Augustin Teboul stuck with their tried and tested formula of relaxed, strong, mysterious predominantly black looks for SS15. Clear lines, understated volume and intriguing plays with textiles, and a sliver of silver here and there make this collection.
Galactic quantum entanglement sees two spheres connected during the presentation, represented by light patterns and reflections. The models moved about this parallel universe in a transcendent state, making this elaborate showcase more art installation than fashion show. The designs adhered to the eccentric aesthetic the label is known for, and displayed leather, fish nets sequins and delicate lace in perfect harmony. Skimpy leather shorts and long dresses with thigh slits were paired with rough leather jackets, mesh shirts and lace pants, knee length leather pencil skirts and leather bustiers, as well as floor length sheer skirts and intricate embellishments showed off the attraction of opposites.
Michalsky at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Michalsky
Always one to entertain, Michael Michalsky went all out for his SS15 show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Musical acts included newcomer band Ballet-School and Brit star Rita Ora, as well as Berlin-based avant-garde artist and designer Esther Perbandt, who did not only take to the mic, but got to show some of her own collection too. This closing event was not just fun and games though, as Michalsky's inspiration this time stemmed from the NSA scandal and the continuing growth of big brother. Mesh, camouflage, sheerness and innocent white are the shades to bring said inspiration to life in this collection, aptly titled "Important Secrets“. The womenswear collection is particularly intriguing with it's mix of feminine prints, metallic accents and military style headgarb. Michalsky turned his unsettling inspiration into a luxe spin on 1984, seeing us as glam versions of Julia next summer.
Michael Sontag at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Soft tunes by Glass Animals were the perfect backdrop for Michael Sontag’s SS15 showcase. His buoyant girl strutted down a runway designed by artist Caroline Bayer, who had a mayor influence on Sontag’s collection sportive, elegant silhouettes for SS15. Once again Sontag stuck to his fuzz free, no-nonsense styles cut from cotton and jersey, but put a little twist on the styles he’s come to be known for. Under Bayer’s influence he incorporated a notion of the urban structures of facades resulting in a fresh, contemporary straight shape.
Unfinished hems, stretch fabrics and alluring bare calves, shoulders and backs playfully toyed with the appeal of the female form and Sontag’s masterful grasp of the relationship fashion-body-space. His trademark draping and flowing fabrics only added to the light and soft sex appeal of his designs which came down the Berlin Fashion Week runway in shades of delicate lilac, powerful yellow, and sensual red as well as understated and eternal black. Even the hottest summer can be cool with this collection of beautiful, not overtly, in-your-face-sexy styles.
Aleks Kurkowski at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Polish-German designer Aleks Kurkowski showcased a collection inspired by architecture, geometrical shapes and adoration for the insatiable color black. The result is high-end mens and womenswear, which combines straight forward, avant-garde design and a deep-rooted belief in sustainability. For a label that has only been founded back in 2012, Aleks Kurkowski has already made a name for itself as being progressive and independent from mainstream trends. The designer's sustainable and ecologically responsible approach to the fast paced world of fashion shines through in the use of natural organic materials.
And in some ways it carries over to the label's color of choice for SS15, as black is an eternally fashionable (non-)color that will withstand the test of time. Kurkowski's edgy designs were somewhat of a throwback to 90s daredevil TV series with tough designs primarily showing leather appliqué, metal zippers and unfinished hems here and there, paired with high-fashion attention to detail. Architecture, as a focal point of her inspiration, shines through in the masculine, almost architectural designs. Staples for SS15 are ankle length pants and coats – all in all a far cry from the usual sundress and a refreshing, badass approach to staying ‘cool’ all year round.
BRACHMANN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
It’s a minimalist attitude that the BRACHMANN Spring/Summer 2015 collection conveys. Walter Gropius and the Bauhaus style served as an inspiration for the architectural collection. Classic suits, well-fitted coats and shirts, in different shades of grey, dark blue, black, brown and bordeaux are versatile and work in any combination with the knee long shorts, guaranteeing a simple, but smooth look. Polo shirts with short or rolled up sleeves add a casual and relaxed feel. An interesting detail are the cut off collars, that make for a twist in the traditional menswear, such as the pleats at the back of trousers that make their front look wider.
dyn menswear at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
by Nora Hiller
Spreading a summery atmosphere all around, the Dyn Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 collection is all about shirts: tucked in and all buttoned up, some of them halved into two kinds of farbics, with a seam across the chest. To reign in the warm weather there are a lot of light fabrics, such as a transparent cotton weave or flowing fabrics of cupro or silk. A flowery pattern ties the outfits together. The collarless jacket, with a slim fit and a zipper right across the front is a key style. Rather tight fitting bermuda shorts in dark blue, creme and ocher go well with the pastel colours of lavender, lemon, light blue and pale pink. Asymmetrical front-pleated trousers and suits finish off the collection, worn by the models whose attitudes reflect its feel – flirty, yet always confident.
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2014
Dark decadance and gothic elegance was exhibited at the Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014 Haute Couture show. Ghost like makeup accompanied by a color palette of red, black and white made for a darkly luxurious collection with black leather, luscious fur and soft satin being key materials. Lines were exaggerated and textures were experimented with in a dramatic amalgamation. Exuding rock and roll elegance, theatrical dresses were created with lace and face framing collars, the result was a collection exquisitely sleek.
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2014
Beginning with exquisite, wedding style dresses that adhered to Christian Dior's classic 1950s new look, the Christian Dior Fall 2014 Haute Couture show presented a modern yet elegant collection. Dresses embellished with subtle and refined jewels and floral patterns exuded grace and luxury while sleek jumpsuits emblazoned with floral patterns and accessorized with waist-clinching belts modernised the classic styles. Zips were intriguingly decorated onto the front of dresses and onto trousers and long, shapely coats were worn as dresses over trousers. Matching mini skirt and top amalgamations made for lively compilations and overall Simons applied historic influencers to a modern aesthetic.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Embodying the word deconstructed, the Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 Menswear show presented an eclectic and inventive collection. Adhering to the theme of disassembling, Margiela provided an intriguing mix; outfits were worn without trousers, sports bomber jackets were worn over suits and tattoo inspired beaded tops were paired with colourful trousers. This motif continued with trousers composed of half jean material and half suit trouser, transparent vests and slick metallic suits.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring both the men' s and women's collections, the Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 campaign is the brands latest creative collaboration, this time with British photographer David Sims.
Representing a delicate strength and confidence, the womenswear collection presents a streamlined silhouette with a pale color palette. Influenced by activewear, the men's collection includes woolen, calf suede and lamb skin materials incorporated into a relaxed silhouette.
Collaborated with the modernistic work of David Sims who has influenced a generation of contemporary image makers, the campaign features stunning shots of model Edie Campbell against a plain and understated backdrop.
The campaign will be released in the August issues of selected global magazines and a video documentary depicting the photoshoot will be available to view in July at
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an experimental amalgamation, the Thom Browne Spring 2015 Menswear collection used intriguing and unique prints to create an eccentric and exploratory collection. Suits were deconstructed by using exaggerated shoulders, lines cut sharply and ankle baring trousers. Textured, action figure-esque jackets and trousers were worn with white shirts and cut out fabric flowers were emblazoned onto shirts, trousers and socks. Models sported plastic face masks and colour blocked brogues in a collection that defied rules to produce something inventive and original.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting a dark and storytelling aesthetic, the Raf Simons Menswear show provided an eclectic mix of bold and sophisticated fashion. Models sported wet hair as they graced the runway in mesh, denim and vivid prints. The footwear consisted of sleek slip on sandals and vividly bright sneakers. Mood board style motifs including images of Simons friends, family, a swimmer and an astronaut decorated the back of shapely jackets and depicted Simons life and successes. Silhouettes were kept clean and sharp with exaggerated shoulders on coats adding drama. Laid back layering was contrasted with bright oversize coats and vests artistically decorated with scenes of nature.
Antonio Marras at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Experimenting with prints, patterns and fabrics, the Antonio Marras Spring 2015 Menswear show combined all three of these to create a unique and exquisite collection. With a world cup and football undertone, models took to the runway sporting shirts with footballs printed onto them, shiny sports hoodies, mesh and nylon. Aside from the football, Marras incorporated a relaxed feel into his clothing; blazers were laidback and slightly oversized and trousers were cutoff to become stylish culottes. Denim was sleek and shiny and paired with leather deep blue sandals. Bold and vivid colour blocked blazers were showcased alongside geometric and bright prints to produce a loud and modern collection.
Canali at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The clashing of styles was a key approach in the Canali Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Quirky bucket hats, preppy shirts and shorts and elegant suits and loafers all combined in a unique mixture. White t - shirts, dark blazers and classic white sneakers were worn with bucket hats whilst smart, thick sweaters were tucked into slim trousers and worn with colour blocked, leather loafers. The result was an eclectic collection for the modern man.
Tru Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Being the most "playfgul, creative and fashion forward" of the Trussardi Group lines, the Tru Trusssrdi Spring Summer collection fused bright colours with eye catching and bold prints. Creating a relaxed elegance, the womenswear used vintage prints and fused casual wear with sleek lines, the result exuded "David Bowie glam". Feminine and relaxed silhouettes accompanied creative colour blocking producing a distinct look whist remaining hip and cool.The Menswear was of a similar aesthetic; loud and bold prints were paired with laid back garments and slick tailoring. Inspired by sports, the designs adopted "tongue in cheek" styling and used layering to keep outfits chic and cool. The collection presented a futuristic style yet kept to being edgy and modern.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Soft colours juxtaposed sharp lines and clean tailoring at the Jil Sander Menswear 2015 show. Bright white and soft yellow ensembles were clean cut and sophisticated whilst remaining relaxed and underemphasized. Loose fitting, relaxed suits were covered in deep navy blue and a simple yet intricate print and were worn with flat form sandals and black socks. Summery shorts and trousers with yellow stripe detailing were styled with cool, modern backpacks and laid back trousers were paired with smart blazers and shirts. The collection verged on a feminine aesthetic yet remained sharp and distinct.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exploring shades of powder pink, deep purple, taupe and blue whilst adhering to a classic Versace aesthetic, the Spring 2015 Versace menswear show offered texture, vibrancy and shape all in an undeniably luxurious manner. Magnificently detailed shirts and trousers were intricately cut to create unique patterns and worn with lavish white leather brogues and artistically decorated and colourful leather jackets were paired with cut-out black trousers and elegant loafers. The collection exuded high end opulence and in true Versace fashion adorned numerous garments with gold embellishments and embroidery.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Casual lines and textures were worked around a black and white tree print in the Iceberg Menswear Spring 2015 collection. A sports luxe aesthetic was applied to loose fitting sweatpants, sweaters and shorts and metallic material gave a luxurious edge. Relaxed silhouettes were complimented by sleek layering whilst bucket hats and colour blocking offered something playful. The collection embodied an effortlessly thrown together yet modern and contemporary design.
Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E Campaign
Fashion brand Replay have chosen committed environmentalists in their latest campaign to advertise their new eco-friendly range.
The capsule collection entitled ‘Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E’ promotes itself as one of the most sustainable denim ranges. The collection uses eco-friendly Laserblast technology and coloured mineral pigments of natural origin to create the clothing as well as low environmental impact laser technology and a low temperature water wash to create each item.
The collection is authenticated by real life strong and world leading environmental activists starring in the campaign. Fronted by two protagonists Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen and Enok Groven who both share a passion for the environment and sustainable fashion, Replay have demonstrated their beliefs in environmentally friendly fashion production.
Model and actress Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen is the creator of Nanofasa, a wildlife conservation trust and is spokesperson for African environmental issues and Enok Groven is the founder of Fashion Against Climate Change, a newsgroup centred on environmental issues within the fashion industry.
The campaign launched on June 16th and comprises of graphic and vivid images of the protagonists clashing with authority figures and a two minute film depicting the activists fight for environmental change. The capsule collection will be available on the Replay on-line shop and in selected Replay Stores from the beginning of June.
Diesel Black Gold Store-Opening London
Creative director Andreas Melbostad describes the retail location as an opportunity “initiate a dialogue with a London audience.” And that the new store will showcase “a complete range of women's and men's collections along with their complimenting accessories."
The 16th June 2014 saw the opening of Diesel Black Gold's first global concept store. Situated on Conduit Street in London, the store exclusively showcases the Diesel Black Gold women's and men's collections.
Consisting of concrete panels, parquet flooring, leather furniture and leather wall-panels, the sleek and contemporary clothing collections are flawlessly complimented by the impressive store design.
Attracting celebrities including Dominic Jones, Eloise Showering and Alexia Niedzielsk, the store opening coincided with London Collections: Men and celebrated the first standalone UK store for Diesel Black Gold.
Proenza Schouler Resort 2015
Creatively articulating shapes and patterns, the Proenza Schouler Resort 2015 flawlessly embodied laidback elegance and glamorous casual wear.
Incorporating layering and contrasts between patterns and colours, the collection presented an amalgamation of bright and bold colour sleekly put together to create a sharp yet feminine ensemble.
Oversize coats and jackets diverged from the femininity by adding a strong yet stylish edge and sheer, chiffon, relaxed knee length dresses adhered to a more serene aesthetic.
Intriguing patterning was contrasted and presented in a summery yet cool colour palette of royal blue, yellow and bright white while smart tailored blazers and dresses provided a chic alternative.
The outfits were worn with mid height white heels and unique flat monochrome pointed shoes adhering to both a classy and casual look.
Thomas Tait wins LVMH Prize
photo Patrick Demarchelier
Beating talented rivals including Simone Rocha, Shayne Oliver's Hood by Air and Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Thomas Tait has been announced winner of the inaugural LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.
Receiving a €300.000 grant and a year's worth of mentoring from a team of special LVMH advisors, Tait was judged by the height of fashion experts including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs and Delphine Arnault. Being “captivated” by his work and naming him a “great talent”, the judges were extremely impressed by the 28 year old Central Saint Martins graduate.
Tait debuted his first London Fashion Week collection during Spring Summer 2011 and has since progressed to develop clean, structured and exquisite collections.
Converse x Maison Martin Margiela
The second collaboration between Converse and French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela introduces Premium Leather Silhouettes to the Collection.
The iconic sneakers are given an over paint which loosens overtime to reveal a hidden and vivid colour ranging from Amber Glow and True Navy to Azure Blue and Biking Red. Elegant and edgy, the classic sneakers are made from soft, luxurious leather and also feature the discreet Maison Martin Margiela logo on the tongue.
Speaking on the sneaker, Maison Martin Margiela describes the collaboration as “The story of two like-minded brands continues with the evolution of the sneaker collection where personal expression is at the forefront, revealing the expression of vibrant colours shining through an incognito white coat that ages with time.” The collaboration fuses the contemporary with the classic to produce intriguing take on an archetypal shoe.
Christian Dior Resort 2015
The ‘it’ girl about town provided the motif for the Christian Dior Resort Collection 2015. With a striking amalgamation of prints, texture and colour, there wasn’t much this collection did not offer.
Bold graphic, abstract prints juxtaposed ladylike silk camis and waist pinching, knee length shapely skirts to create the perfect balance between femininity and vitality. Minidresses and tops played the part of a canvas; illustrated with dynamic brushstrokes and paired with chic black ankle boots.
The mood transported us from refined elegance to hip and modish lines with tailored, long knee length overcoats worn with nothing underneath. Raf Simons experimented with texture through scarf like silk patterned skirts and transparent deconstructed dresses with cut out patterning.
The eclectic theme was embodied through clashed floral and stipe prints and mesh cut out dresses, all in a vivid and captivating colour palette.
G-STAR RAW: MILITARY APPAREL REMIXED WITH A FUTURISTIC MOTIF
Denim specialists G – Star Raw’s latest collection inventively combines military attire with a futuristic aesthetic that of course can be worn effortlessly with all types of denim.
Camouflage patterned bomber jackets are worn with deconstructed denims and white tees that embody a hip and urban demeanor and shiny metallic bombers are worn with black angle boots that exude laid back power.
Both feminine and edgy, the womenswear provides an attractive mix of military style prints, lightweight cottons and nylons and a casual colour palette of silver, copper, and khaki. The menswear consists of khaki and camouflage bombers, pants and shorts and relaxed t –shirts and signature denim jeans.
The collection is stylish yet functional and epitomises mellow chic.
Hermès Launches Lighting Collection
Forget the phrase, “more by accident than by design” when it comes to Hermès - “more by architecture”, on the other hand, would be wholly germane. Showcasing the new Home Universe collection, at the Milan Salone del Mobile last week, Hermès joined forces with Italian architect and designer Michele De Lucchi to fashion a series of handsomely imposing structures under the similarly stately surrounds of the Palazzo Serbelloni. Hermès en Lumière presents the brand's debut lighting collection, alongside a fresh offering of luxury interior pieces.
Occupying several rooms, the installation took 10 days to build, and harmonised a plurality of aesthetics with dichotomous splendor. Light took center stage, first peppering the slatted timber panels that soared to the heights of fresco ceilings. Though they did their best, even the unctuous glow of the Palazzo's gold chandeliers couldn't quite overshadow the crisp white modernity of the Hermès LEDs. Part arboreal, part Bauhaus, branching lanterns boughed their slender sprigs over buttery taupe couches. Devised by the expert eye of French light scenographer, Yann Kersalé, contemporary craftsmanship took leverage from old sailing or carriage lamps – antiquated casts reconfigured with rechargeable batteries, granting each modular style a passport to the outdoors. Materials found their roots in nature; softly speckled twills were edged with signature supple leathers to form hardy illuminated drums of shades, suspended from a finely-craned frame.
Alongside these new additions sat renewed classics; Jean-Michel Frank's iconically poised chair, console and bench were specially recommissioned, having made their first appearance with Hermès in 1926. The limited artisan objects are restricted to around 50-100 pieces, each carefully crafted in hand-patinated bridle leather and wrought iron.
French designer Philippe Nigro also played a hand in the collection; Curiosités d’ Hermès – a discerning three-piece selection – draws upon the “cabinets of old”, revelling in indulgent daily rituals like afternoon tea or taking care of one's shoes. Such a rationale begs the use of equally exquisite materials; graphite Porosus crocodile and ebony Bosphore horsehair, or pear wood finished with ebony, renders a venerable range leaned to legacy.
PRADA Advertising Campaign April 2014
Effortlessly combining femininity and luxury, high end Italian fashion house Prada have launched their April 2014 fashion campaign. Starring sensational model Lexi Bolling, the campaign showcases the dazzling starlet nestling the classic and popular Prada Double bag as well as new styles.
Crafted in lavish yet supple leather, the bags are available in a contrasting array of colours including white, caramel, sand, yellow and red and provide a casual and stylish essential daytime accessory. Shot by Steven Meisel, the photographer depicts the bag as an extension of the model herself and a powerful “combination of skin and leather” and a lustrous “second skin on the model’s gamine silhouette”.
Displayed in natural calming day light and against an airy, cool white background, Lexi gazes alluringly into the camera’s lenses while the desirable PRADA bag sits effortlessly and elegantly on her lap to create a “simple and understated luxury”.
Karl Lagerfeld London boutique opening
Fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld has finally got around to cementing his iconic fashion creations in a new territory. The store, which exhibits a largely black and white minimal aesthetic is a homage to the designer with his famous head motif decorated onto an array of items and apparel has opened in London’s uber cool and classy Regent Street.
With classic Lagerfeld pieces available such as black sunglasses, fingerless gloves and a stiff white collar, the new flagship epitomises Karl’s undeniable influence and power in the fashion industry and innovative approach to store design. The just opened store is his biggest outlet in Europe and will contain interactive photo booths allowing shoppers to take pictures of themselves while trying on clothes, it will also have a digital guest book and iPad mini’s displaying full collections.
It seems that the store not only offers the latest Lagerfeld creations but an opportunity to buy into the designer’s archetypal image with iPhone cases, toy dolls and pillows all with Karl’s famous face planted onto them. Upon opening, Lagerfeld arrived in London and celebrated the flagships’ launch with British fashion model and friend Cara Delevingne. We expect this fuse of mainstream fashion and high end luxury to be an instant hit.
Fred Perry Jamie Reid Blank Canvas
In celebration of the Jamie Reid Blank Canvas Collection, fashion label Fred Perry have enlisted a collection of creative concept videos and gif’s designed by Belgian artist Peter De Potter. The unique creations are inspired by the artwork of Jamie Reid and will be part of a collaborative installation at Dover Street Market.
The silent concept videos play with perception and merge stills with repeated moving imagery including the peace sign, angel statues and the naked male aesthetic. The videos combine the spirit of youth revolt with a peaceful calmness and pay homage to the work of Jamie Reid. The Belgian artist, famous for his use of Tumblr studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and incorporates photography with online imagery to create art inspired by the digital age.
Artist Jamie Reid’s Blank Canvas Collection consists of three printed shirts that fuse a variety of inspirations and meanings with Jamie’s own unique individuality. Based on his own artwork from 1987, the A Short Sharp Shock shirt synthesizes Reid’s trademark ransom note cut-out letters with a bronze embroidered Laurel Wreath and a Jamie Reid signature on the hem. The second shirt is inspired by Reid’s work with the Sex Pistols and symbolizes Reid’s uprising to order and the establishment with the words ‘Peace Is Tough’ printed across the chest. Time for Magic is the title of Reid’s third shirt in the collection and details a hare symbolizing peace with the words ‘Time for Magic’ embroidered along the back of the shirt.
The highly individualistic and free thinking work of Jamie Reid works flawlessly with iconic fashion brand Fred Perry to produce an exclusive and exciting collection that has an intriguing meaning. The collection will be available from 14th – 22nd March at Dover Street Market and eventually in all Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and online.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Amalgamations of powerful yet stylish contrasts were provided at the WUNDERKIND FW14 show. This was demonstrated through the pairing of florals with geometric square prints, hip black oversize biker jackets with floaty dresses and heavy patterned large fur coats contrasted with soft layered dresses. Oriental influenced straight mini dresses were thrown into a clash of colours, styles and shapes to create a collage of extraordinary pieces.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Capturing the Parisian spirit, the Jean Charles de Castelbajac FW14 collection incorporated a largely black and white colour palette with bursts of cobalt blue and bright orange. Square patterns gave the demure cuts a funky edge and large eye covering black floppy hats gave us less is more mystery. Unique creativity was presented through whimsical face motifs applied to dresses, skirts and leather jackets and scissor, paperclip and screw sketches printed onto dress and jumpsuits. The collection excelled in demonstrating a winning combination of classic high end looks with one of a kind statement pieces.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Christian Dior FW14 experimented with texture, colour and shapes to produce a collection of tailored coats in eye catching colours and exhibited an imaginative approach to corset lacing seen down the spines of dresses and along the sides of blazers. Interjections of neon yellow, green and pink dresses accessorized with glitter details added a distinct femininity and sensationally textured dresses gave way to a sleek yet striking aesthetic.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Varying patterns and colours clashed at KENZO FW14. A creative approach to layering was seen through corsets worn over tops, wide structured skirts worn over patterned suits and straight short skirts worn over trousers. Classic geometric Kenzo prints were worn alongside inventive padded black suits and a long padded black coat. The collection was wearable whilst adding a certain energy to a wardrobe.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Balenciaga FW14 show presented a contrast in textures and the creative use of zippers as accessories. Shapes were played with by contrasting oversize silhouettes with cross patterning. Continuing the inventive theme, bright interwoven stripes were applied to sweaters and bright neons were worn with striped knitted dresses. The show provided both outlandish options as well as more demure pieces to create something special.
Viktor & Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Viktor & Rolf got creative at their FW ’14 show, presenting numerous shapely cut long grey dresses, rope style cable knit patterns accessorized onto overcoats, tops and dresses and black buckled creeper style platform shoes. Shapes including faux bustiers and sheer material were inventively applied to jumpsuits and dresses. The designing duo managed to incorporate a sense of originality into a largely shades of grey colour palette and played with classic sophistication with the use of loose fitting velvet and blazers with thick cable knit sleeves, it excelled in elevating simplicity.
Day 3: Emporio Armani, Iceberg and Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Emporio Armani FW ’14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week epitomised the modern, sophisticated and effortlessly chic Flapper Girl. Wide legged black silk trousers decorated with dotted white stripes displayed alternative sleek while luscious velvet and sparkling silver embodied the fun elegance of the collection. Models sported jet- black, boyish haircuts as they showcased stylish silver, black and white suits as well as fitted turtle neck tops and 1920s inspired straight dresses.
With an emphasis on tailored coats, knitwear and uniquely printed white sweatshirts, the Iceberg FW ’14 collection used sportswear as an inspiration and contrasted bright, clear whites with even brighter neon yellows and reds. Fur and leather, buckled neck braces were worn as scarfs and leg hugging trousers were paired with metallic silver, jet black and deep purple ankle boots to create a tenacious yet feminine collection.
Shades of blue, deep red and black were present at the Versace FW ’14 show at Milan Fashion Week. Donatella stayed true to the brands lavish and ostentatious designs as models sported two – toned fitted dresses with silk detailing, rich fur coats and cut out suede knee high boots. Leather fringing and fur were combined and fitted coats were embellished with buttons, this was extravagance at its best. Unique patterning covered fur coats and strappy silk dresses embodied feminine luxe.
Day 5: Marni, John Richmond, Trussardi, Missoni and Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Marni FW ’14 show presented at array of ostentatious excitement through the use of large fur pieces, layered ruffles and colour blocked, turtle neck dresses. It seemed like anything and everything provided inspiration for the collection as interestingly patterned matching two pieces were displayed alongside exaggerated zip up jackets and oversize trousers. The show contrasted large all fur colourful pieces with clean and structured lines to create a collection that catered to all.
Bringing a new level of sophistication to the classic suit, the John Richmond FW ’14 show epitomized menswear elegance with a powerful rock ‘n’ roll edge. Blazers were detailed with wording and a multitude of prints to play on the traditional suit while a pair of tight fitting bright red leopard print jeans were combined with a lavish black fur bomber jacket to provide a modern edginess. Richmond’s use of kilts, tight leather trousers, exquisite face motifs and sleek silk lined suits fused modern culture with classic refinement.
High class chic was translated onto an array of sleek black leather, shiny metallic silver and casual blue material at the Trussardi FW ’14 show. University wear was referenced through school – badge style motifs and rich, warm sweaters contrasted with seductive leather and the use of metallic. Platform shoes were worn with ankle baring trousers and above the knee skirts were accompanied by oversize sweaters to create a laid back elegance.
The Missoni FW ’14 show saw the warm fall colours of orange, yellow and brown transcend into wintery blues, greens and greys. Finished with a Bohemian edge, the collection comprised of straight, fur – collared winter coats, colour blocking and spotty leather ankle boots. Colour was clashed on structured coats and mini dresses while strong silhouettes and the playful use of texture exemplified urban chic.
Opened by famous supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing an all-black silver studded ensemble, the Philipp Plein FW ’14 show adhered to its ‘American Dream’ theme with an array of matte-black leather, soft fur and rock ‘n’ rock studs. Cowgirl culture was referenced through leather fringing, cowboy hats and high – collared buttoned up cowboy shirts while still remaining modern. The use of bright red tartan on coats and dresses and black sparkly pieces added a high end luxe without losing the rock edge.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
At MM6 Maison Martin Margiela looks were puristic, functional and straight forward. For Fall/Winter 2014-2015 the diffusion line embodied sporty apparel, urban style and absolute perfection. Accompanied by a moving live performance of Canadian singer Sean Nicholas Savage, the show graced with bonded textiles with a paper-inspired finish, laminated denim and cotton twill. Thick rubber-grip soled over-the-knee boots added a perfect finish.
Giorgio Armani Privé Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
As the title 'Nomad' tells, the Armani Privé Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 collection on Tuesday night is devoted to the woman who moves around the world and picks ideas from the beautiful things she sees. A mélange of ethnical influences, melts together in absolute perfection and the demand of high-quality handcraft.
Opening the show with a line of sublime garments of daily clothing in deep blue shades, Giorgio Armani tops up in the second part of the show: when crystal-embroidered gowns, plissé skirts combined with slighty masculine-tailored blazers and organza crinolines with oriental elements embraced, were the essence of Giorgio Armani's glamorous Spring/Summer 2014 evening appearance.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In just a few seasons, the house of Kenzo has renewed it's popularity with recognizable prints, colors and a few collaborations. This season Humberto Leon and Carol Lim went to a more homely place as the collection started with earthy tones as grey and brown. A lot of focus was put on tailoring and knitwear, the latter being used for big collars on coats, slim pants and chunky sweaters. Colors like pink, lime and purple were later reinforced to brighten up the collection. Funny detail was the shaggy fur, that was actually kangaroo.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During his menswear Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Christophe Lemaire explained that his collection was an evolution of his work. His roomy silhouettes sometimes were slightly blue-collar, but very nonchalant and chic. Take for instance his big, double breasted coats, robust denim and big pockets. Elsewhere in the collection, the designer looked at the Far East with mao-colars, wider shapes and a luxurious pajama-ensemble. This lookbook was photographed in the circular hall of the Maison de la Radio in Paris to enhance the timelessness and urban character of the collection.
Saint Laurent Paris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mentioning rock and roll when talking about Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is pretty much old news. Music, in all it's forms, is more than incorporated in the designers approach towards the fashion house. The soundtrack to his most recent outing was by the band Froth from Slimane's current whereabouts in Los Angeles. Coming fall, Saint Laurent Paris boasts Teddy Boys as the iconic men of the moment. Animal-prints were used on shirts and leather jackets and the shoe of the season was an updated creeper. Big coats in fur or tweed oozed subcultural excitement as well as traditional savoir-faire. The tailoring took note of the fifties youth-culture with three-buttoned suits, drainpipe legs, houndstooth, checks and classic trenches in gabardine or leather.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Berlin-based menswear label SOPOPULAR took to the runway unveiling its fall/winter 2014/15 collection, aptly entitled ’X’. For the anniversary show designer Daniel Blechmann created 18 looks as a retrospective of seasons past and showcased his personal favorites, all adhering to the modern and severe aesthetic that has defined SOPOPULAR so far. Blechmann’s opening look is a manifest to the entire collection: a head-to-toe look in all black consisting of relaxed leather pants, a tank top as well as semi-transparent raglan long sleeve
A leather harness – exclusively designed for SOPOPULAR by designer Marina Hoermanseder – topped off the outfit. At the center of the collection are jackets and coats in manifold variations. Here, a loden cape in poignant army style deserves a commendation. When it comes to pants, SOPOPULAR updated classic cuts such as slim cigarette pants or straight-legged Marlene Dietrich style pants to fit smoothly fit the collection. The all-time favorite Dr. Martens completed each raucous look.
Henrik Vibskov at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Henrik Vibskov always has an array of ideas that he can easily distill into one collection. This Fall/Winter collection reunited nomadic hats, round shoulders, florals, ethnic decorations and much more in a collection that remained consistent from beginning to end. The use of a mesh-nylon material made it easy to create volume while staying light, another technical endeavor was the fabric that looked like origami-folding on shorts and ponchos.
Rick Owens at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rick Owens practically invented a new type of garment in his fall/winter 2014 collection. This garment can best be described as a hybrid of a romper and a dress. It was suprisingly elegant on a man's body, especially when worn with big shantung scarf wrapped around the neck and chunky high boots. The collection started with deep brown leathers, suedes and cotons and later verged into blackness, never forgetting the head dresses that gave a slight religious undertone. The silhouette was quite broad with a lot of sleeveless tops and wide shorts. This all finished with the savageness that Rick Owens is known for.
Y/PROJECT at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glenn Martens outed his first menswear collection for Y/PROJECT and proved he no longer is a young designer; he delivers like the grown ups. The Belgian designer took over the house, where he started as an assistant, after the death of founder Yohan Serfaty. The collection started with a pair of big leather trousers and a slim jacket that was impeccably structured and slightly longer, hitting the leg just around mid-thigh. This made for a new and modern silhouette, highlighted by a sober color palette of black, grays, whites and browns. A Functional streak can be found on jackets with multiple zippers, big collars and pockets attached with small hooks, marrying decoration and practicality. Some of the best looks were seemingly simple; jeans and at shirt, but revealed Martens' ingenuousness on the back with a pull-up system forming a Y-shape on the back as a modern logo. The same system was applied to rethink the starkness of leather in a bomber-jacket. Although this was an avantgardist collection, sometimes a classic air found its way with suits almost nodding to a traditional three-piece suit.
John Lawrence Sullivan at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
John Lawrence Sullivan fall/winter 2014 was all about British examples of rebels like mods, skinheads and teddy boys. This resulted in quite a few high waisted pleated pants and creepers. It wasn't a retrospective though. Arashi Yanagawa made these influences from last century exciting and new with blown up stripes, metallics and furry knits. Other motives was minerals and marbles, which were visible in prints used for suits, jackets and parkas. This print was especially convincing when treated with a layer of plastic.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Giorgio Armani designs for Fall/Winter 2014 had an athletic and Bohemian approach. Three-piece suits with massive shoulders and textures from corduroy to velvet will play the keyrole next winter's mens'wear dominated by dark hues, blue, sage, brown and grays.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Jil Sander showcased a delciate and subtle collection playing with the senses of structure, surface movement and colour. It almost begs the viewer to touch it‘s shimmery fabrics and promises a haptic experience. On the contray, purple cashmere sweaters with geometric knits create a rather flattering atmosphere. This season‘s tailoring resembles to well-known Jil Sander aesthetics: silhouettes are neat. Boxy jackets on top of slim cutted cigarettes pants dominate numerous looks.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
As an absolute highlight of second day at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014, fashion label Alexander McQueen showcased a tribute to the brands -very british- loyal high quality tailoring. Sarah Burton's choice of location and soundtrack underlined the collections dark sprit: staged in an old church and accompanied by Bauhaus's 'Bela Lugosi Dead', the collection itself was almost entirely black, sometimes paired with silver or gold accents. Sharp tailored suits, plaids and skinny trousers layered with kilts and skirts got highlighted by John Deakin's photo motive of painter Lucian Freud digitally printed on shirts and long double-breasted coats.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rock and roll was given a sleek makeover at the Saint Laurent FW14 show. Grungy tartan, leather, velvet and glitter were given a high fashion edge and 60s style mini dresses were worn underneath tailored overcoats to smarten up the dazzle. The collection comprised of just enough rock references to be exciting but used clean and structured lines to comply with a very fashionable look.
Iceberg for la Rinascente Milano
Iceberg launched a sweatshirt limited edition developed exclusively for the prestigious Milan department store 'La Rinascente'. The collection includes two models: a cotton gauzed sweatshirt with neoprene details that highlights the Mickey Mouse embroidery and a 'College' inspirated sweatshirt with the Iceberg historic logo.
The sweatshirts are now available at la Rinascente Milano, Italy.
#DIESELTRIBUTE by Nicola Formichetti
Nicola Formichetti launched his first exclusive capsule collection for the Italian denim brand Diesel under the promising title 'RE-EXAMINE THE PAST, RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE'. To underline the fearless Diesel spirit and pay tribute to the DNA of the brand, Nicola 'examined' various legacy pieces in the headquarter factory of Breganze and customized found materials from the 35 -year archive in a new design. Each and every item in the entire collection is handmade and pushing the fashion quotient further than ever before. To keep iconography alive, the newly-appointed Artistic Director used found patches, displaying e.g. moto club images such as the eagle, all cut and laid by hand. Furthermore, red, white and green buttons praise the brands Italian heritage. The men's and women's ready-to-wear includes 45 pieces and consits of two segments, a denim capsule and a leather capsule, including jackets, shirts, vests, jeans and accessories.
Under his vision of the future, Nicola Formichetti was remaining true to the unique ways of distributing Diesel and therefore teamed up with celebrated photographer Nick Knight and his creative team, the SHOW STUDIO, to shoot an revolutionary campaign. The entirely new visual concept was shot with an iPhone, and retouched by filters of photo and video apps such as Instagram, Glitchè, PickPlayPost and Megaphoto. This unique look speakes the true vocabulary of a visionary take into social media.
The denim #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule is ready to shop online and in selected Diesel stores only, the leather #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule will follow in February 2014. Explore the outstanding online campaign at
Breaking the Ice by Yi Zhou
Italian label ICEBERG teams up with Chinese artist Yi Zhou for a very special and unique capsule collection including menswear, womenswear and acces- sories. The exquisite designs took it's inspiration from wild, scenic landscapes, hybrid animals and images of the sun, all captured on stylish T-Shirts, sweaters, shirts, hoodies and skirts. This collection symbolizes the perfect wardrobe for wanderlust and nature lovers.
A little documentary was directed by Yi Zhou to make this wonderful collection and it's spirit sensually perceivable to it's audience, later on seen at window dis- plays along ICEBERG'S prestigious shops. Yi Zhou is featured as a fictional cartoon character, which gets repeated, distorted and abstracted and has morphed herself into the strings of cotton sweaters and T-Shirts.
Breaking the Ice – ICEBERG by Yi Zhou will be available at ICEBERG stores worldwide starting December 2013.
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace
Artist and rapper M.I.A. has designed an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace, entitled ‘M.I.A. x Versus Versace‘. M.I.A‘s up-coming line is inspired by bootleg market stall fakes. “Versace designs have always been bootlegged, now it‘s Versace bootlegging the bootleg for the bootleggers to bootleg the bootleg“, says M.I.A about her idea. The line features 19-pieces for men and women and combines Versace‘s trademarks with the urban and original spirit.
Printed jeans, silk shirts and jersey dresses in bright and loud colours glaze with kaleidoscopic prints, graphical ornaments and versions of the famous Versace emblem. Mexican photographer Jaime Martinez shot the unique digital GIF campaign featuring images of M.I.A. and friends wearing the collection on East London markets.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace will be available online and in selected stores on 16 October 2013.
Marc Jacobs's last show for Louis Vuitton
First it was a rumor, now it is out: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton. Being one of the most important American designers of the 21st century, Jacobs has been creative director since 16 years turning the iconic luggage brand into a new era of fashion-forward design. Jacobs leaves the brand to focus more on his own label in the future. His last appearance at Louis Vuitton was a poetic retrospective and breathtaking nostalgic performeance, awarding elements of former shows. Accompanied by dark, tragic and celebratory music the show announced the end of a grand era. As anticipated the collection embodied the extravagant, rebellious and genius essence Jacobs is loved for.
Immense peacock feather headpieces arised on the runway with black dominated garments. A clock, a carousel and fountain created a melancholic atmosphere and made this show be an elaborate highlight on last day of Paris Fashion Week.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week the label Iceberg showcased a collection that reflected japanese pop culture and manga aesthetics. Young, fresh and modern were the key words, that young, talented designer Alexis Martial reached out for. He highlighted his stunning pieces by hologramms, prints and embroidered colourful patches, that showed the design of an abstract Iceberg. The collections colour base throughout was dominated by bright colours, white, mint and a light blue made of materials such as neoprene, silk muslin, rhodoïd bands and ultra sheer nylon knit fabrics, that were a product of a special textile process. Martial‘s mission to bring the house of iceberg to a new great dimension succeeded.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Giorgio Armani Womenswear collection was a haunting highlight on last day of Milan Fashion Week. The traditional Italian house of Fashion showcased a casual, yet elegant collection mainly focusing on fluid and light designs. Draped garments achieved a spirit of fantasy and romance by playfully using volume and form. Key items of this collection were transparent dresses, tunics and coats arising the runway in a colour palette of purple, lilac and pink. Layered chiffons, jacquard silks and elasticized cottons incarnated ultimate perfection and extravagance and gave a prelude to how Spring/Summer 2014 will look like.
Gucci at MFW Spring/Summer 2014
The traditional Italian house Gucci on first day of Milan Fashion Week conquered the runway with pieces that blazed abroad nonchalance, femininity and elegance. Creative Director Frida Giannini based her collection on slight athletic influences matched with glamorous intricate finesse. The repeating key elements were bra tops wrapped in straps, leather-edged kimonos and low waist dresses with V- slits made of high-quality materials and sophisticated techniques, such as silks, plissés and chiffons, based on blacks as well as multi- coloured and gold shades. Highlighted by refined ornaments and sparkling sequins, this collection was truly in the spirit of Art Nouveau.
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 womenswear Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, who is a former student of London’s Royal College of Art, showed off a duality of pieces in black, white and pastel colours. Diesel Black Gold’s edgy-chic look got highlighted by a range of dresses, skirts, blazers and tops with metal eyelets, zippers and buckles. Besides french braids created a girly, soft and romantic look. Appealing to a rather sophisticated and cosmopolitan clientele, Meldbostad succeed with showing numerous pieces in denim and leather, as well as assimilating silk georgettes in this collection. All in all his goal was to show “a new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness“.
Station to Station: A Public Art Project Made Possible by Levi's
This friday, artist Doug Aitken will commence his new project “Station to Station: A Nomadic Happening”, which will connect artists, musicians and creative pioneers of different disciplines. With help from Levi's, the brand that has been outfitting pioneers for more than 140 years, Station to Station will raise funds trough ticket sales and donations in order to support progressive projects in seven museums in the United States.
A train will go from New York to San Francisco during three weeks, making stops at ten different places along the way. While there, a series of happenings and interventions in the fields of art, music, cinema, literature and many more will take place. Doug Aitken designed the train that will act as a cultural studio and that will globally broadcast unique content and experiences from both the stops and the moving train.
Creatives participating in this project are among others: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kenneth Anger, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors, Olaf Breuning, Ariel Pink, Connan Mockasin, Peter Coffin, Urs Fischer, Meschac Gaba, Liz Glynn, Carsten Holler, Christian Jankowski, Dan Deacon, Savages, Dave Hickey, Barney Hoskyns, Rick Moody, Alice Waters, Leif Hedendal, Edible Schoolyard Project Aaron Koblin, Ernesto Neto, Jack Pierson, Stephen Shore, Rirkrit Tiravanija and Lawrence Weiner. For more information, visit www.stationtostation.com
Replay Design for Barça
‘Més que un club’: the slogan for the FC Barcelona says it all. Renowned for their flair in play, Barça are to team up with Italian company Fashion Box – the forbearer of Replay and its sister brands – to initiate a four year partnership as sponsor of clothing and footwear for the club’s sportsmen and women. Under the project, Replay will design an official clothing line, alongside a smart-casual line for the first team. Most celebrated for their innovative use of denim and characteristic indigo textile, the label will reinterpret the orthodox jeans philosophy in the fine lines of tailoring, resulting in a collection of unique and inimitable fashion pieces. More than a club? There’s no question.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century
He dressed the most beautiful women of the '80s, from Madonna to Grace Jones. Cited for his figure-fitting contours, as a designer, Azzedine Alaïa embraced the seductive shape of the female form, exuding sexuality to define an era. Now in his 3rd decade as an esteemed fixture of the fashion industry, Azzedine Alaïa continues to impart that sensual inflection that undersigns his work within his designs today, attracting such diverse clientele as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama.
The exhibition, Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century, pulls focus on the important catalogue of work the designer has produced in the new millenium, showcasing his most significant and glamorous pieces from the last ten years. Curated by friend of 15 years Mark Wilson, the exhibition organises Alaïa's work by the his signature materials of the last decade; creations fall into fur, leather, velvet, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and animal skin rooms, illustrating the adroit hand of a mastered couturier, and, above all, that amorous appeal.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century runs until September 8th at the NRW-Forum, Düsseldorf.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
International Talent Support Reveals 2013 Winners
The International Talent Support annual contest provides a spectacle of a creative platform each year, showcasing the most promising talent in fashion design from all around the globe. Convieved and developed under the EVE agency, ITS pools an authoritative judging panel from the industry's most discerning experts, including Art Director for Diesel, Nicola Formichetti.
Han Chul Lee
Finalists submitted 30 projects – 10 for each competition area – to be considered over the two day event, held for the twelfth time in the Italian seaport of Trieste. Past editions have seen a then burgeoning Astrid Andersen, Mark Fast and Michael Van Der Ham compete for the sought-after accolades, which are commended with cash grants and internships at the helm of the world's most prominent brands.
The Royal College of Art nurtured several of this year's winners; Han Chul Lee from took the crown for Fashion Collection of the Year and the Vogue Talents Award with his crocodile skins reforming classic silhouettes, while the prestigious Diesel Award went to Xiao Li for her playfully inflated pastel knits and cartoon cuts, earning her a six-month placement with the brand and a prize of €25.000. Tomohiro Sato put on an curious show, claiming the Modateca Award for his boundlessly imaginative embellishments, and Nelly Hoffman's photo-realist printed streetwear won the support of the YOOX.COM Award, with the oppurtunity to design an exclusive garment for the leading virtual store. True to its word, ITS have given us more than just one to watch this year with this year's collection of gifted winners.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Graciously composed in timeless black and white, the John Varvatos Fall/Winter 13 campaign stars American music legend Wilie Nelson and his sons in what makes for a beautifully fashioned family portrait.
Shot in Des Moines, Iowa by photographer Danny Clinch, Willie, Lukas and Micah – each an established musician – pose nobly before the stately architecture of Salisbury House. Embodying the strength of Varvatos' collection with his compelling presence, Willie's sense of style permiates through the images, as his own boots partner the black Hampton tuxedo and wing-collared shirt.
A short film accompanying the campaign will also premier the John Varvatos website on July 9th, in which the Nelson family perform the song Still is Still Moving to Me. Conversation cuts guitar-playing in this mini-documentary, which affords an intimate insight of music and memories – three minutes just doesn't seem long enough when watching this tender portrayal of a truly treasured musical icon.
Nike Air Max Camo Collection
In tribute to the countries that have taken the Air Max trainer to the status of an international icon, Nike are to release a collection in a spectrum of country-specific camouflage prints.
First hitting the pavements in 1987 as a sports accessory, the Air Max now stands as a streetwear symbol of self-expression. Vintage camo prints from France, Germany, Italy, Japan and the United Kingdom will emblazon a range of styles, from the Airmax 1 to 180.
Design isn't the only element to be reinvented. Function, too, recieves a makeover. Nike Hyperfuse technology employs heat and preassure to form a single layered material, designed for stability, breathability and durability. The result delivers a lightweight product, packed with performance and without abraisive seams.
The Nike Air Max Camo Collection is available from selected retailers from July 3rd.
Isabell de Hillerin Spring/Summer 2014
The beautiful and talented Isabell de Hillerin put forward a smart and relaxed collection for spring/summer 2014. Her label stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. She works with fabric manufacturers from Romania and Moldova, a traditional artisan industry on the verge of extinction, which she is supporting. In her spring/summer 2014 collection, titled 'relief', embroidery either accentuates shoulders and necks or adds intrigue to clear cut shorts or shirts. The color palette spans from white, grayish beige and light lavender to a strong tangerine and royal blue with some black pieces in there. All allude to a midsummer day, when a brewing storm forecasts the imminent relief from the heat of the city. Isabell de Hillerin's designs balance this forceful color story in their almost masculine elegance: sharp Bermuda shorts meet ornamental shirts, wrap-around blouses, strong shift dresses and two pieces. Flowing skirts, deep v-necks, thigh-high slits and geometrical cut-outs add a subdued sexiness to the collection. The urban summer vibe once again showed when the models carried their pretty high heels in hand for final runway, strutting along to Bon Iver's 'Skinny Love'.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Vladimir Karaleev Spring/Summer 2014
Off-white, beige, taupe, dark blue and black – Vladimir Karaleev's world in colors. For his spring/summer 2014 collection he cut off delicate silk and chiffon, having the hems appear unfinished. In stark contrast, he teamed these pieces with sturdy jackets and pants, achieving a soft but cool look. Karaleev stuck to his tried and tested wide and loose silhouettes throughout the collection. However, with his delicate choices and sheer panels, sex appeal does not fall short. His combinations of almost tone-in-tone pant, top and waistcoat or jacket call for a windy summer by the sea, and his blue and black styles are a perfect update of the urban summer uniform.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Kaviar Gauche Spring/Summer 2014
Nothing says Spring like white organza, sweeping through the air like a soothing breeze. Collared up to the neck, it still whispers of the sun and freshly cut grass. Florals make an appearance – or perhaps not – only the negative space of their cut-outs can tell. Fine blossom appliqué parades sheer T-shirt dresses, while laser-cut petals perforate shell tops and fitted skirts.
Butterfly sleeves are fitting for the occasion, spreading their wings over light mini dresses and breezy silk jumpsuits. Save the intermittent flower motifs, ornamentation is scarce and color similarly subdued, allowing pleated folds and keyholed fabrics to stand up and be heard.
Dolce&Gabbana Childrenswear Fall/Winter 2014
Sometimes the best things come in small measures. No less could be said of Dolce&Gabbana’s latest childrenswear line, which proves every bit as good as its ‘parent’ ready-to-wear collections.
For girls, fun-size florals and mosaic prints flock simple sleeved shift dresses, paired with matching jewelled headbands and flower crowns to complete this season’s scaled-down runway look.
Boys and girls alike receive a wintry dose of heritage plaids, adorning statement separates in preppy cuts, satchel in hand and ready to tuck in a crisp white shirt. Checks take shape in all sizes, from gridded black woollen coats to trousers in Royal Stewart tartan.The collection offers pieces to cater for both conservative and contemporary tastes, saving room, of course, for a satiating helping of Dolce leopard print.
Valentino Fall Couture 2013
The Wunderkammer – that was the inspiration behind Valentino's Fall Couture show; a European renaissance phenomenon to keep an encyclopaedic 'cabinet of curiosities'. And what a treasure trove it was, each piece singular in its beauty.
Emerging from the cracks of scalloped lace, fine silk prints presented watercolor motifs in strokes so gentle they looked almost antique. Staghorn coral, chiseled stone and intricately embroidered birds were all part of this enchanting museum, cased by unadorned interludes in dusty camel shades. Lantern sleeves broke from tradition, still feminine against the resplendent bracelet lines for which the label has become known.
Velvets jarred with sheer speckled mesh, while tapestry coats provided a heavy cloak to the ankles. A beautious touch of chinoiserie made herringbone seem eclectic when stood in allignment, but it was the finale gown that brought it all to life: thick roulette straps tied at the shoulders to suspend the masterfully restrained blood-velvet bodice, picked tightly to the waist before falling into its arresting flare, as if spilling with the curiosa of the Wunderkammer.
Julian Zigerli Spring/Summer 2014
Swiss-born designer Julian Zigerli took the runway on day one of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection “At the end of the world to the left” plays with mixed boundaries, layering and de-constructed elements.Through the print collaboration with the Berlin based artist Katharina Grosse, Julian developed a collection of designs that embody this abstract space. A collection for a grounded man in an unknown place, surrounded by wind-blown colors and distorted forms. Like a mirage, an oasis in the desert, Zigerli’s collection unfolds and inspires with functional details in cut and fabric. His men’s collection stands for useful, smart and technical high-class pieces with a sporty-touch. There is always a lot of love, color, humor and positivity involved in his designs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Kilian Kerner Spring/Summer 2014
The first day of MBFWB drew to a close with the spring/summer 2014 show of Kilian Kerner. “HÖR NICHT AUF MIT TRÄUMEN” – don’t stop dreaming – is Kerner’s claim for next summer which he emphasized unconventional elements. Minimalist cuts were countered by vivid prints and a wild mix of materials. Graphic print combinations as well as gleaming metallic elements found their way onto shift dresses. Bare midriff tops combined with swinging skirts or laidback pants and shiny leather waistcoats on top of dresses met slim suits with bold leather details and floor length evening dresses with glitter effects. The juxtaposition of Kerner’s refined and elegant designs and the footwear of choice – the Nike Air Max 90 – made for an exciting and current overall look.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2014
Damir Doma s/s 2014 commenced with a passage in white, like he started with a clean slate. Structured jackets with broad bands in the waist were combined with wide shorts and T-shirts with sleeves that reached the elbow with high-waisted pants. After white a bright blue came around, sometimes with appliqués of photos on it. Some jackets were made from a material that can be best described as a big exotic skin, maybe a python. There was a practical side to the collection when emphasis was put on bombers, overalls and heavy cotton cocoon coats. The three closing looks were coats and jackets in a thick jacquard material in the deepest shade of purple.
Hien Le Spring/Summer 2014
Once again, designer Hien Le’s show kicked-off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection showcased Le’s signature minimalist designs for men and women with distinct features, such as collarless styles and invisible buttons. The collection embraced the designer’s familiar pieces such as bomber jackets and impeccably tailored men’s shirts. Fabric choices ranged from airy silks to sturdy outerwear material. For spring/summer 2014, Hien Le has moved a little outside his monochrome comfort zone in experimenting with expressive prints: stylized dragonfly wing images are sprinkled throughout the collection. The color scheme for next summer ranges from off-white and beige to an almost violet light blue and bright red combined with salmon.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2014
The centre of the Dior Homme stage was a labyrinth of mirrors which the models entered after their walk on the catwalk. This divided the collection up in all sorts of fragments and worked as a collage of shoes, clothes, bags and faces. This faceted attitude was also visible on the clothing. Graphic appliqués were taped on the jackets, coats and pants like a 21th century stained-glass window. The inspiration for this came from a trip the designer, Kris van Assche, took to Miami, where Art Deco is omnipresent. The effects that produce a mirror was also used in the accessories, like in a bag that seemed elongated. All in all, the collection brought a certain strictness that can constitute to a full wardrobe, but which never becomes too formal.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In stead of choosing for an runway show, Jean Paul Gaultier decided to present his collection with a video in his iconic rue St-Martin townhouse. Gaultier is known for his provocative ideas and they were still there: bondage-influences, skirts and see-through fabrics but the collection was also full of fine tailoring and subtle casual-wear. Some ethnic influences made the collection light but they never took over the collection. Big stars were the sandals with elastic bands, which were both minimalistic and exotic at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2014
John Varvatos stole the wardrobe of a gentleman and tore out all the stitches. A blurred squint may kid the eye that it was seeing a refined silhouette, but by the splintered raw edges alone, it’s obvious the promises were all empty. Frayed silk scarves slip under suits, their sheen a side-effect of colour washed hue.
Spare a tight-fisted dash of navy, monochrome prevailed – like the shows of his peers. Varvatos’ distinction, however, was self-governed style; subscribing not to perceptible trends, pieces appear to keep wearability in mind. That’s not to say they will not trail blaze – just, perhaps, without the customary peacocking.
Canali Spring/Summer 2014
If the Canali show didn't have a place in the heart of the modern gentleman, what possibly could? Impossibly suave in every which way, Canali tailored relevance into tradition.
Fabrics so quaint they could have been ripped from the pages of a novel, ticking stripes and toile crawled from back-room lining to center stage. Suits, all the while immaculately cut, went from razor-sharp to roughened by the sweep of natural cloth. Pastel shades went to override their more confident counterparts, the primary hues, making for a collection that harks back to the past, with an eye firmly on the future. 'Nostalgia' was not the word. 'Renewal', though, speaks a thousand truths.
Golden Dinosaurs at Louis Vuitton
Keep a look out for some new additions to Louis Vuitton's 5th Avenue Maison store – the Pre-Fall/Winter 13 collection now shares its window with some rather special paleontological finds...
Gold dinosaurs mingle with mannequins in a wholly inventive merchandising of clothing and accessory lines. A play on the exhibition at Paris's Les Jardins des Plantes Natural History Museum, Velociraptors and Tyrannasaurus Rex were given luxury makeovers. With skeletons sprayed gold, Vuitton bags hang from hands, teeth and tails, as exhibition plaques provide satirical annotation to displays.
Costume National Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Monochrome, it seems, was on the brain when design season came around for Milan. This time led by Costume National – and what a costume it was.
All-leather suits earned their place in a wardrobe outside of the '80s, in fringed black and with stetson in hand. Cowboy boots filled in the cracks left by their trademark stitching, re-emerging as baby-smooth ankle-highs, fit for the modern day Spaghetti Western.
Drainpipe pants purified the look in unblemished white until canvas tones wore through, making way for the pigment-bright shots of aqua and sunshine yellow suits. Such a performance can only be topped by the casting of gold lamé, which gave the show its roaring encore to a dress code that impishly specified black-tie.
Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star
Legendary graffiti artist Chaz Bojorquez and Converse have come together for a first-time collaboration. Bojorquez is of Mexican descent, but was raised in LA. Mexican-American “cholo” style graffiti from the 1940s and the harmony of Asian calligraphy are strong influences on his style. During the 1960s, he started his artistic work on the streets of the city. When he drew in East LA, the classic 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star was part of his uniform. Now, an edition of the sneaker will be a testament to his art.
The Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star features his signature skull tag, dubbed “Señor Suerte“, on the tongue and his scripts cover its inside. The insole features a black and white image of the artist at work under the cover of night. Keeping with the understated design, the shoe will be available in midnight black with suede heel caps. Other elements include nut-and-bolt style eyelets, vintage weave laces and a screen-print of Bojorquez' signature.
On Friday, June 28, the Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star will hit the Converse store in San Francisco with Chaz Bojorquez in attendance.
Iceberg Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In an unforseen twist on proceedings, the announcement of Frederico Curradi's promotion to become the first Creative Director of Menswear at Iceberg just hours before their runway show discernibly gave pace to the catwalk presentation. He will work by the side of artistic director Paolo Gerani, who said of the appointment, “never before in our history have we named someone Creative Director of our brand. There’s a remarkable creative affinity between Federico Curradi and me.”
And with a sportwear theme, he hit the ground running: practical edges meet a high-design finish, resulting in a look that is altogether modishly wearable. Curradi's love of art, meanwhile, pierces through like a javelin, evident in his masterful colour blocking and restrained application of complimentary color. Firstly priming the canvas with a wash of heavy blacks, it was the stealthy flickers of orange and blue that gave an electrifying shock of hue. Elaborate print featured just twice, in an outburst of cubist proportions. Exposed zips funciton as the only forceful detail – a wink to industrial design at that – fusing together the two dimensions of the collection's philosophy: performance duality in urbane design.
Dsquared² Fall/Winter 13 Menswear Campaign
Hipsters and hepcats, bebop and scat – Dsquared²'s Fall/Winter collection took on a somewhat '40s jazz flavour, and their new campaign, starring Brahim Zaibat, also followed suit. Unveiled yesterday, photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot shot with a signature dash of technicolour, replicating the smoky ambience